OO 


Americas  Greatest  Pare  Food  Expert 

and 

Mildred  Maddocks 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 


The  Pure  Food  Cook  Book 

The     Good      Housekeeping     Recipes 
Just  How  to  Buy — Just  How  to  Cook 


Edited  by   MILDRED   MADDOCKS 

Associate  Editor  of  Good  Housekeeping  Magazine 

Editor  of  the  "Family  Cook  Book";  "Every   Day  Dishes";  "  Brosia 

Meal  Cook  Book" 

With  an   Introduction  and  Notes  on   Food  and   Food   Values  by 

HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.IX 


Over    70    Illustrations 


SAN    FRANCISCO   EXAMINER 

SAN    FRANCISCO,  1914 


COPYRIGHT,  1914,  BY 
HEARST'S  INTERNATIONAL  LIBRARY  Co.,  INC. 


All  rights  reserved,  including-  the  trans- 
lation into  foreign  languages,  including 
the  Scandinavian, 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

GOOD  COOKING.    BY  H.  W.  WILEY,  M.D.         .  3 

1  JUST  How  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        ...  9 

2  SPRING  MENUS 14 

3  SUMMER  MENUS 28 

4  AUTUMN   MENUS 41 

5  WINTER  MENUS .56 

6  BREAD 71 

7  JUST  How  TO  MAKE  BREAD  .       .       .        .       .  75 

8  JUST  How  TO  MAKE  BREAKFAST  BREADS    .        .  81 

9  RICE 95 

10  JUST  How  TO  COOK  RICE 97 

11  SOUPS .       .in 

12  JUST  How  TO  MAKE  SOUPS 113 

13  EGGS 123 

14  JUST  How  TO  PRESERVE  EGGS      .       .       .       .'  125 

15  JUST  How  TO  COOK  EGGS 128 

16  FISH 145 

17  JUST  How  TO  COOK  FISH      .       .       .       .       .  147 

18  POULTRY 171 

19  JUST  How  TO  BUY  AND  COOK  POULTRY  .        .173 

20  MEAT 185 

21  JUST  How  TO  BUY  MEATS 187 

22  JUST  How  TO  ROAST  MEATS 200 

23  JUST  How  TO  BROIL  BEEFSTEAK  ....  202 

24  JUST  How  TO  COOK  POT  ROAST  OF  BEEF    .       .  205 


viii  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING    PAGE 

Steamed  Squash  in  Shell.  Boiled  Asparagus  .  .  .  174 
Roast  Turkey,  Garnished  with  Cranberries  ....  175 
Flank  Steak.  Inferior  Ham.  Choice  Ham  ....  188 
Standing  Rib  Roast.  Common  Porterhouse  Steak  from 

Stripper  Loin • 189 

Sheep  or  Lamb,  Marked  to  Show  the  Retail  Cuts.  Showing 

Where   the    Chops   and    Cutlets    of   Veal    Come    in   the 

Carcass 194 

The  Retail  Cuts  of  Pork,  as  Seen  in  the  Whole  Pig.  The 

"  Beef  Creature,"  Marked  Off  to  Show  the  Retail  Cuts  .  195 

Sugar-Cured  Breakfast  Bacon 198 

Mutton  Loin  Roasts 199 

Beef  Loins  of  First,  Second,  and  Third  Grades  .  .  204 

Sausage  Bundles 205 

Casserole  of  Beef.  Corn  Cakes  to  serve  with  Meat  .  .  212 
Casseroled  Veal.  Creamed  Asparagus  Tips  ....  213 
Ivory  Cream.  Grandmother's  Strawberry  Shortcake  .  .  244 
Gooseberry  Amber.  Steamed  Rice,  Molded  and  Garnished 

with  Cherries 245 

Strawberry  Compote.  Orange  Surprise 258 

Choux  Pastry.  Strawberry  Charlotte 259 

Jellied  Chicken  and  Egg  Salad.  Cucumbers  and  Cress  .  266 
Tomatoes  and  Endive  Salad,  Garnished  with  Capers.  Pond 

Lily  Salad 267 

Hawaiian  Salad.  Grape  Salad  in  Tent  .  .  .  .  .  274 
A  Spring  Luncheon  Table,  with  Violets  for  the  Centerpiece, 

laid     with     the     Service     Plates,     and     ready     for    the 

Soup  Service 275 

Potatoes,  French  Fried.  Stuffed  Eggplant  ....  286 
Apples  and  Sweet  Potatoes.  A  Christmas  Garnish  for  the 

Mashed  Potatoes 287 

Celery  Croquettes.  Shad  Roe  Croquettes  ....  330 
Lentils  Garnished  with  Cress  and  Celery  Hearts.  Green 

Peppers  Stuffed  .  with  Cauliflower 331 

A  Souffle  Tin.  Raspberry  Jelly 358 

Acorn  Cakes.  Devil's  Food  Pudding 359 

Flag  Cakes.  Date  Sandwiches  . 3/6 

Red  and  White  Currant  and  Raspberry.  Cherry  Salad  .  377 


PREFACE 

In  compiling  this  cook  book  the  pages  of  Good  House- 
keeping have  been  freely  drawn  upon.  To  the  following 
experts  our  readers  are  especially  indebted : 

DR.  Louis  M.  HALL,  Market  Specialist  for  the  Federal 
Department  of  Agriculture. 

MR.  WILLIAM  B.  HARRIS,  Coffee  Expert  for  the  Fed- 
eral Department  of  Agriculture. 

Miss  BERTHA  E.  SHAPLEIGH,  School  of  Cookery, 
Teachers  College,  New  York  City. 

MRS.  MARY  J.  LINCOLN,  Author  of  the  Boston  Cook 
Book. 

MRS.  LINDA  HULL  LARNED,  Author  of  Hostess  of 
To-day. 

Miss  HELEN  LOUISE  JOHNSON,  Chairman  of  Home 
Economics  Section  of  National  Federation  of  Women's 
Clubs. 

RILEY  M.  FLETCHER  BERRY,  Author  of  Fruit  Recipes. 
PROFESSOR    B.    E.    POWELL,    Editor   of    Publications, 
Illinois    College   of   Agriculture. 

MILDRED  MADDOCKS. 


IMPORTANT  NEW  FEATURES 

Blank  pages  are  provided  at  the  end  of  each  chapter  in 
order  that  each  owner  of  the  Pure  Food  Cook  Book 
may  increase  its  value. 

Write  or  paste  in  the  proper  place  your  favorite  old 
recipes,  as  well  as  the  best  new  recipes  that  you  find. 

The  publishers  will  be  pleased  to  receive  suggestions  to 
be  included  in  future  editions  of  the  book. 


GOOD   COOKING 

BY 
H.  W.  WILEY 


GOOD    COOKING* 

By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

WO  or  three  years  ago  I  drove  with  some 
friends  through  the  vineyards  of  Burgundy, 
along  that  hillside  which,  because  of  its  great 
agricultural  wealth,  is  called  the  Cote  d'Or, 
the  hill  of  gold.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we 
drove  over  the  crest  of  the  hill  where  there 
were  no  longer  vines,  but  undulating  fields  of 
grain  and  grass.  At  sundown,  high  upon  a  h:llside,  we 
came  to  a  peasant's  cot.  The  peasant  with  his  family 
were  at  supper.  They  were  not  expecting  visitors  and 
we  were  not  expecting  to  be  visitors.  They  invited  us 
to  supper.  The  peasant's  wife  did  not  do  as  my  mother 
used  to  when  I  was  a  boy,  when  we  were  at  supper  and 
the  minister  came  into  the  lane.  In  such  a  case  she 
would  take  away  the  corn  mush  and  sorghum  molasses 
and  skimmed  milk  and  get  out  the  loaf  of  bread,  the 
preserves  and  jams,  and  the  chickens  would  come  and 
lay  their  heads  upon  the  block  ready  for  the  ax.  All  in 
honor  of  the  minister.  The  peasant's  wife  did  not  put 
anything  on  the  table  she  did  not  have  there  when  we 
came  in,  only  more  of  it.  And  such  bread!  the  whole 
wheat  grown  in  the  field  nearby  and  ground  in  the  old- 
fashioned  windmill  in  plain  sight.  The  wheat  was  not 
deprived  of  all  of  its  most  important  mineral  ingredients 

*  The  special  articles  by  Dr.  Wiley  herein  have  been  written 
expressly  for  "  The  Pure  Food  Cook  Book." 

3 


4      THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

by  bolting  and  sifting.  It  was  just  what  nature  made 
it.  The  vegetables  were  crisp  from  the  garden  and  the 
butter  and  milk  from  the  spring-house  nearby;  and  the 
cold  lamb  had  never  known  the  rigors  of  cold  storage, 
but  a  day  or  two  before  was  feeding  on  the  aromatic 
grass  of  the  hillside.  The  cooking  was  perfect.  It  was 
a  feast  fit  for  Lucullus.  And  this  condition  of  affairs 
can  be  found  in  every  part  of  France;  good  cooks  are 
not  the  exceptions.  They  are  the  rule  among  the  coun- 
try people  of  that  great  country.  And  who  has  ever 
heard  of  a  divorce  in  rural  France?  It  is  unknown. 
Occasionally  we  read  of  divorces  in  French  cities  but 
never  among  the  peasantry  of  the  fields.  Why  should 
anyone  want  to  get  a  divorce  when  he  is  so  well  pro- 
vided with  simple  and  well-cooked  food?  There  is 
nothing  which  is  more  conducive  to  tranquillity  and  hap- 
piness than  good  cooking.  Unfortunately  it  is  not  con- 
sidered good  form  to  be  a  cook.  The  girls  of  our  country 
are  set  down  at  a  piano  at  six  years  of  age  and  compelled 
to  pound  ivory  five  hours  a  day  for  fifteen  years,  unless 
in  sheer  desperation  they  should  run  off  with  the  chauf- 
feur. And  when  they  have  finished  this  long  and  ex- 
pensive course  someone  comes  along  and  invents  a 
pianolo  or  victrola  that  plays  better  music  in  a  minute 
than  a  girl  does  after  fifteen  years  of  study.  She  is 
robbed  of  all  her  glory.  But  suppose  she  had  spent 
fifteen  years  in  learning  to  cook.  Who  could  rob  her  of 
that  glory?  No  one.  It  would  remain  a  blessing  to 
her,  her  parents,  her  husband,  and  her  children  for  her 
whole  life. 

What  we  need  in  this  country  is  fewer  pianos  and 
more  stoves.  With  a  good  cook  in  every  household, 
and  preferably  not  a  hired  one,  the  divorce  mills  of  the 
country  might  as  well  shut  up ;  they  would  have  nothing 


GOOD  COOKING  5 

more  to  do.  Domestic  life  would  be  peaceful,  happy, 
and  unbroken.  We  must  get  away  from  the  idea  that 
cooking  is  drudgery.  There  is  no  drudgery,  except  in 
the  mind.  The  man  who  goes  out  and  breaks  stone 
evenly  so  that  a  lasting  road  can  be  built  over  which 
future  generations  may  pass  with  comfort  and  safety  is 
not  a  drudge ;  he  is  an  artist.  The  boy  who  goes  out 
into  the  field  and  plows  a  straight  and  deep  furrow  in 
which  more  corn  will  grow  is  not  a  drudge.  He  is  an 
artist;  and  the  girl  who  goes  into  the  kitchen  and  cooks 
a  meal  that  is  good,  that  tastes  well,  that  is  properly  bal- 
anced and  properly  served  is  no  drudge ;  she  is  an 
artist.  The  attitude  is  the  principal  thing  in  this  mat- 
ter. If  one  has  the  spirit  of  the  artist,  the  mere  physical 
exertion  which  is  necessary  to  paint  the  picture  is  no 
longer  feared  nor  dreaded. 

A  cook  book  such  as  this  will  do  much  to  stimulate 
the  artistic  spirit  in  the  cook,  and  thus  make  her  forget 
the  warmth  of  the  kitchen,  the  heat  of  the  fire,  and  the 
manipulations  necessary  to  success.  She  has  before  her 
her  canvas ;  she  is  painting  on  it  a  picture ;  that  picture  is 
the  finished  meal.  She  has  the  enthusiasm  of  art.  There 
is  no  place  for  the  depressing  sense  of'  fatigue. 

Good  cooking  is  also  one  of  the  fundamental  principles 
of  good  health.  This  country  has  an  abundance  of  food. 
There  is  no  country  in  the  world  that  has  so  much  in 
proportion  to  the  population ;  and  there  are  few  coun- 
tries, I  imagine,  where  so  large  a  percentage  of  it  is 
spoiled  in  the  kitchen,  before  it  reaches  the  table.  What 
an  infinite  blessing  it  would  be  to  all  the  people  of  this 
country  if  that  spoiling  of  the  food  in  the  kitchen  could 
be  stopped !  How  much  of  comfort,  good  health,  and 
happiness  that  would  imply.  How  great  the  economy 
which  it  would  work.  The  cook  who  "  knows  how  "  is 


6      THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

the  economical  cook.  And  the  food  that  is  properly 
prepared  for  the  table  is  the  food  which  in  the  end  costs 
less  and  goes  further  than  any  other.  The  high  cost 
of  living  would  have  no  terrors  for  the  good  cook  who 
liked  the  simple  and  nutritious  dishes. 

Good  Housekeeping  in  its  ministration,  looking  to  the 
betterment  of  the  food  supply  and  the  increasing  excel- 
lence of  cooking,  is  doing  a  world's  service  which  will 
be  only  measured  by  the  gratitude  of  the  millions  who 
are  benefited  by  its  work.  We  have  Good  Housekeep- 
ing stores  that  are  selling  foods  approved  by  Good 
Housekeeping  and  the  household  utensils  which  receive 
the  approbation  of  its  Institute.  We  now  want  to  com- 
plete that  work  by  instituting  Good  Housekeeping 
kitchens  in  which  the  mistress  of  the  kitchen  will  know 
the  principles  of  nutrition  as  well  as  the  technique  of 
cooking.  She  will  know  how  to  select  her  foods  for 
the  purpose  for  which  they  are  intended,  namely,  to 
restore  waste,  build  tissue,  and  furnish  heat  and  energy. 
Every  meal  will  be  selected  for  its  fundamental  proper- 
ties and  then  prepared  with  an  art  which  will  render 
each  component  of  the  food  more  completely  assimilable 
and  useful.  Thus  at  the  same  time  the  Good  House- 
keeping kitchen  will  minister  to  the  taste  and  to  the 
nutrition  of  the  body.  It  is  not  necessarily  scientific 
cooking  in  the  strictest  sense  of  that  art,  but  it  is  rather 
artistic  cooking  in  the  broadest  sense  of  that  word.  It 
is  that  form  of  equipment  which  will  enable  one  to  first 
select  the  foods  best  suited  for  the  purpose  and  then 
manipulate  them  with  skill  to  fulfill  that  purpose  more 
completely. 

A  cook  book,  therefore,  should  be  not  a  mere  cata- 
logue of  recipes.  This  cook  book  is  more  than  that.  It 
is  a  selection  of  means  to  an  end,  skillfully  adapted  to 


GOOD  COOKING  7 

its  purpose,  and  made  as  attractive  as  possible.  The 
cook  who  is  interested  in  this  matter  sufficiently  to  catch 
the  spirit  of  the  book  will  find  her  work  lessened,  her 
joy  increased,  and  the  benefits  of  her  ministrations 
enjoyed. 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS 


AKING  cut  the  bills  of  fare  for  the  three  hun- 
dred and  sixty-five  days  of  the  year  is  a  bug- 
bear to  many  a  woman.  This  feeling  is  apt 
to  come  from  trying  to  plan  at  the  wrong  time. 
Few  women  can  stand  Ijefore  an  ice-box  con- 
taining the  remnants  of  "  gone-before  meals," 
immediately  after  eating  one,  and  plan  out  the 
next  meal  with  zest  or  any  great  success.  But  take  your 
pad  and  pencil  and  all  the  cook  books  you  have.  First 
look  through  these  and  put  down  under  their  respective 
headings  those  dishes  which  seem  to  you  practicable  or 
desirable  for  any  of  the  three  meals.  Then  plan  the 
meals  for  a  week,  making  out  the  probable  market  lists 
at  the  same  time.  Then  when  you  stand  before  the  ice- 
box with  this  week's  bill  of  fare  in  your  hand,  you  can 
adjust  the  meals  to  suit  the  exigencies  of  left-overs  or  lack 
of  them,  or  to  the  incidents  of  company  and  unexpected 
changes. 

By  this  plan  you  will  soon  find  your  meals  more  varied, 
the  cost  should  be  lessened,  and  it  is  actually  easier  to 
plan  better  meals  for  less  money  in  this  way  than  to  do 
so  each  day  by  itself.  Of  course  you  must  make  yourself 
familiar  with  the  market  supplies,  and  know  how  to 
choose. 

Knowing  how  to  choose  involves  the  whole  subject  of 
nutrition,  and  most  housekeepers  quail  before  its  neces- 
sarily scientific  rules  and  formulas.  But  there  are  little, 
common,  everyday  things  which  are  great  helps.  For 


io     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

instance,  there  is  an  understood  rule  that  any  one  food 
shall  not  be  used  twice  in  any  form.  That  is,  it  is  quite 
out  of  place  to  have  chicken  soup  and  boiled  fowl  in  the 
same  meal ;  the  connection  is  too  obvious.  This  rule  is  a 
good  one  to  use  in  planning  the  day's  meals  at  any  time. 
Eggs,  certain  kinds  of  meat  or  fish,  should  not  be  re- 
peated; tomatoes  stewed  for  luncheon  should  not  be 
served  again  in  that  meal.  This  rule  is  applicable  all 
through  and  leads  to  the  oft-repeated  one  which  calls  for 
the  disguising  of  left-overs.  Every  meal  should  be  a 
creation. 

Any  one  meal  should  not  be  colorless  or  flat.  Do  not 
serve  more  than  one  creamed  dish.  A  cream  soup,  and 
baked  custards  for  dessert  is  another  example  of  this, 
for  both  would  be  white  and  creamy  and  as  both  in 
color  and  flavor  the  dinner  would  be  flat  and  tasteless,  it 
could  not  attract  nor  stimulate  the  appetite.  Care  always 
should  be  taken  to  aid  digestion  by  the  appearance  as 
well  as  the  flavor  of  the  food.  Within  reasonable  limits, 
dietetic  errors  do  far  less  damage  if  the  food  is  enjoyed 
when  eaten. 

With  fish,  especially  the  fat  fish,  should  be  served  some 
vegetable,  sauce,  or  condiment  acid  in  its  nature,  or  to 
which  acid  is  added.  When  spinach  is  served  with 
fish,  the  inference  is  that  vinegar  will  be  used  with  it. 
Hot  slaw  is  preferable  to  creamed  cabbage,  and  cauliflower 
should  be  served  with  a  hollandaise  in  place  of  a  cream 
sauce,  when  either  accompanies  fish.  It  is  often  very 
difficult  to  accomplish  this  proper  serving  of  vegetables 
with  certain  dinner  dishes,  and  this  is  especially  true 
when  no  meat  is  used.  Fish  and  meat  substitutes  are 
flat,  and  the  feeling  induced  by  the  thought  of  them 
indicates  a  tart  accompaniment. 

Where  there  are  no  small  children  at  the  table  a  soup 


£  «i 

o  '§ 


s 

O 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS         11 

or  a  salad  served  with  each  dinner  would  be  preferable 
to  a  dessert.  Desserts  are  often  unnecessary,  taking 
more  time,  labor,  and  money  than  they  return  in  food 
value.  Often  they  add  the  extra  proteid  or  carbohydrate 
which  overloads  the  digestive  organs.  After  a  hearty 
dinner,  an  egg  dessert,  for  instance,  containing  sufficient 
nourishment  for  the  main  dish  of  luncheon,  is  out  of 
place.  If,  when  planning,  you  can  say  to  yourself, 
"  There  are  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  three  or  four  eggs, 
sugar,  etc.,  in  that  dessert,  and  that  is  all  unnecessary/' 
you  will  find  yourself  planning  more  and  more  simple, 
wholesome  things.  Where  the  family  at  table  consists  of 
adults  they  are  many  times,  far  better  off  with  two  pieces 
of  candy,  or  a  sweet  cracker  with  a  cup  of  clear  after- 
dinner  coffee,  than  with  any  made  dessert. 

Baked  or  stewed  apples,  apple  sauce,  or  apple  dump- 
lings are  better  and  cheaper  than  apple  pie,  but  most  of 
us  like  apple  pie,  and  should  have  it  as  a  reward  of 
virtue  once  in  a  while.  But  why  take  time,  labor,  and 
material  to  make  an  under  crust  for  a  custard  baked  in 
a  pie  tin,  instead  of  in  cups,  without  any  crust?  They 
are  less  expensive  and  more  wholesome  in  the  cup  form. 
Where  there  are  growing  children  at  the  table  desserts 
are  required  as  vehicles  for  the  fats  and  sugar  needed 
in  their  diet. 

In  planning  the  dinner  the  question  of  soups  is  an  im- 
portant one.  Where  fresh  meat  is  to  be  served  or  dishes 
containing  considerable  food  value,  the  soup  should  be  a 
clear  one.  There  is  little  food  value  to  soup  stock,  but 
clear  soup  acts  as  a  stimulant  to  the  digestion  and  pre- 
pares the  way  for  the  rest  of  the  dinner.  Cream  soups 
of  any  kind  are  nutritious',  and  should  be  employed  for 
dinner  when  there  is  a  lack  in  the  rest  of  the  bill  of  fare. 
This  is  why  cream  soups  are  suggested  for  luncheon  so 


12     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

often  and  with  little  else.  A  well-made  cream  soup,  with 
crackers  or  bread,  followed  by  a  dessert  or  fresh  or 
stewed  fruit  with  plain  cake,  cookies,  or  gingerbread  is 
all  that  is  needed  for  an  adequate  luncheon. 

Any  left-overs  may  often  be  used  in  the  making  of 
soups.  Where  the  midday  meal  is  merely  luncheon,  not 
a  luncheon-dinner,  planned  for  the  children,  the  left-overs 
should  be  utilized  and  served  then. 

In  no  department  of  cooking  is  skill  more  needed  than 
in  making  over  dishes — hashes,  in  reality.  The  basis 
for  most  reheated  meats,  fish,  and  vegetables  is  a  sauce 
of  some  kind.  Master  the  making  of  sauces  and  one  is 
master  of  the  well-made  entree.  Remember,  it  is  not 
the  simplicity  of  the  bill  of  fare,  but  how  its  dishes  are 
cooked  and  served,  that  makes  of  the  meal  a  feast. 

What  to  Serve  for  Breakfast 

Fruit  may  be  served  at  every  breakfast,  but  do  not 
serve  acid  fruits  like  oranges  and  grapefruit  when  a 
cereal  is  served. 

Serve  plain  foods  simply  cooked. 

Serve  home  cooked,  coarse  cereals  with  eggs. 

Serve  baked  potatoes  with  creamed  fish. 

Serve  creamed  potatoes  with  smoked  fish. 

Serve  creamed  potatoes   with  lamb  chops. 

Serve  nuts  and  dates,  or  figs,  with  cereal  in  place 
of  meat. 

Do  not  serve  elaborate  made  dishes  for  breakfast. 

What  to  Serve  for  Luncheon 

Use  the  left-overs  for  luncheon. 

Serve  a  soup  with  waffles  or  griddle  cakes  for  dessert. 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS         13 

It  will  be  an  innovation  in  some  families,  but  the  waffles 
are  even  better  than  at  breakfast. 

Or  serve  a  made-meat  dish,  a  salad,  and  a  dessert. 

Serve  mayonnaise  with  egg,  meat,  fish,  or  shellfish 
salads.  Also  with  the  more  delicate  vegetable  salads,  as 
tomato,  asparagus,  or  celery. 

Serve  a  boiled  salad  dressing  with  vegetable  salads. 

Serve  French  dressing  with  all  green  salads. 

Serve  plain  lemon  with  all  fat  fish,  as  salmon,  herring, 
mackerel — or  a  green  salad  with  French  dressing. 

Serve  a  rich  butter  sauce  or  hollandaise  with  the  white 
fish  like  halibut,  cusk,  haddock,  and  smelts. 

Tomatoes  may  be  served  with  fish  in  place  of  lemon. 

What  to  Serve  for  Dinner 

The  following  combinations  may  be  helpful  in  plan- 
ning the  family  dinner  :  they  all  are  correct  in  supplying  a 
well-balanced  meal. 

Serve  a  clear  soup,  meat,  potatoes,  or  a  starchy  vege- 
table like  rice  or  hominy,  a  green  vegetable,  and  dessert. 
Or  meat,  potatoes  or  a  substitute,  a  salad,  and  dessert. 
Or  a  cream  soup,  a  made  dish  of  meat  and  potatoes,  and 
dessert. 

With  roast  meats  serve  potatoes  mashed,  or  roasted 
in  the  pan  with  the  meat. 

With  fricasseed  meats,  serve  baked  potatoes. 

Serve  potatoes  plain  boiled,  only  when  new. 

With  broiled  steak,  serve  creamed  potatoes  and  a  crisp 
fried  vegetable  like  eggplant. 

With  roast  pork,  serve  baked  potatoes,  a  green  vege- 
table, and  a  sour  apple  sauce. 

With  roast  beef,  serve  potatoes  baked  in  the  pan  and 
a  sweet  watermelon  or  peach  pickle. 

Any  vegetable  harmonizes  with  beef. 


14     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

With  roast  chicken,  serve  mashed  potato,  onions,  and 
a  sour  jelly. 

With  roast  lamb,  serve  mashed  potato,  green  peas  or 
string  beans,  and  a  mint  sauce. 

Serve  caper  sauce  only  with  mutton. 

Serve  tomatoes,  in  some  form,  with  veal. 

For  dinner  salads,  use  only  the  simple  green  salads, 
with  French  dressing. 

What  to  Serve  for  Supper 

Use  made  dishes  for  supper  as  well  as  for  luncheon. 

Use  at  least  one  hot  dish  in  winter. 

Serve  a  cream  soup  followed  by  waffles. 

Do  not  serve  a  cream  soup  followed  by  a  salad. 

Salads  may  be  used  at  supper  in  warm  weather. 
.  Choose  a  vegetable  or  meat  salad,  using  boiled  dressing 
or  mayonnaise. 

Serve  pickles  or  a  sour  sauce  with  baked  beans  if  there 
be  any  pork  baked  with  them. 

Serve  cakes  or  cookies,  with  fruit,  for  dessert  at  supper. 

SPRING  MENUS— MARCH 
SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Bacon  and  potato  omelet 

Corn  muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Banana  and  nut  salad 

Hot  biscuit  Currant  cake 

Tea 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        15 

Dinner 

Cream  of  lettuce  soup 

Lamb  chops 

Stuffed  potatoes  Peas 

Steamed  pudding  with  vanilla  sauce 

Coffee 
SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  apples 

Baked  beans  Brown  bread 

Fish  balls 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Chicken  pie 

Sweet  potato  croquettes 

Cauliflower 

Cheese  and  red  pepper  salad 

Coffee  ice  cream,  marshmallow  sauce 

Snow  cake 

Coffee 

Supper 

Spinach  omelet 

Currant  buns  Preserves 

Gold  cake 

Tea 
MONDAY 

Breakfast 
Stewed  apricots 
Uncooked  cereal 

Omelet  Rolls 

Coffee 


16  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Luncheon 

Baked  bean  soup 

Toasted  brown  bread 

Apple  sauce 

Gingerbread 

Tea 

Dinner 

Beef  a  la  mode 

Mashed  potatoes 

Red  cabbage 

Nut   pie 

Coffee 


TUESDAY 


Breakfast 

.  Bananas 

Cereal 

Fried  fish 


Biscuit 


Coffee 


Luncheon 

Bread  griddle   cakes 
Cup  cakes  Tea 

Dinner 
Shepherd  pie 

String  beans  Squash 

Fruit  jelly  Coffee 


WEDNESDAY 


Breakfast 

Grapes 


Cereal 


Bacon 


Toast 


Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        17 

Luncheon 

Cream   tomato   soup 

Muffins 

Preserves 

Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled  mutton,  caper  sauce 
Mashed  potatoes  Turnips 

Lima  beans 

Hawaiian  salad 

Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Apples 
Creamed   dried   beef 

Baked  potatoes 
Rolls  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sausages 

Muffins 

Sliced  oranges 

Cake  Tea 

Dinner 

Onion  soup 
Scalloped  mutton 
Potato  croquettes 

Baked  squash 

Lettuce  salad,  French  dressing 
Apple  pie  Coffee 


i8     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

A 

Grapefruit 

Cereal 

Poached  eggs 
Coffee 

Luncheon 

Vegetable  soup 
Crisp  crackers 
Jellied  prunes 

Cookies  Tea 

Dinner 

Baked  stuffed  haddock  with  hollandaise  sauce 
Boiled  potatoes  Spinach 

Tomato  jelly  salad 

Chocolate  nut  blancmange 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal  with  figs 

Buttered  toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Rice  with  cheese 

Fruit  cakes  Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato   soup 

Hamburg  steak 

Carrots  and  peas  in  potato  cases 

Watercress 

Baked   rice  pudding 

Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        19 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  apples 

Bacon  and  buckwheat  cakes 
Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast  turkey  Cranberry  sauce 

Mashed  potatoes  Onions 

Celery  Baked  squash 

Mince  pie  Coffee 

Supper 
Orange,  nut  and  raisin  salad 

Hot   biscuit 

Chocolate  layer  cake 

Tea 

SPRING  MENUS— APRIL 
MONDAY 

Breakfast 
Grapefruit 

Scrambled  eggs  Biscuit 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Corn  chowder 

Preserves  Ginger  snaps 

Tea 

Dinner 

Roast  pork 

Apple  sauce  Celery 

Mashed  potato  Squash 

Orange  jelly 

Coffee 


20     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal  with  bananas 

Creamed  fish  Rolls 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Eggs  and  celery 

Nut  bread 
Cake  Tea 

Dinner 

Cold  roast  pork 

Baked  potatoes  Apple  sauce 

Onions  Turnips 

Rice  pudding 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Griddle  cakes  and  syrup 
Coffee 

Luncheon 
Cream  toast 

Baked  apples  with  nuts  Molasses  cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cannelon  of  beef 

Riced  potatoes  Shell  beans 

Lettuce  with  French  dressing 

Fruit  roll 

Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        21 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal 

Broiled  b'acon 
Corn  muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Macaroni  and  cheese 

Sliced  oranges 

Almond  cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Lamb  chops 

Mint  potatoes  Peas 

Apple  and  celery  salad 

Caramel  bread  pudding 

Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal  with  figs 

Buttered  toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Egg  salad 

Clam  fritters  Preserves 

Cake  Tea 

Dinner 

Baked  shad 
Potatoes  hollandaise 

Cucumbers  Scalloped  tomatoes 

Apple  pie  Cheese 

Coffee 


22 


THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 


Rolls 


SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Apples  and  sausage 

Baked  potatoes 

Luncheon 

Cold  roast  beef 

Lyonnaise  potatoes 

Pickles 

Dutch  apple  cake 
Tea 

Dinner 

Irish  stew  with  dumplings 

Cheese  and  olive  salad 

Fruit  jelly 

Coffee 

.SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit  marmalade 
Boiled  eggs 

Coffee 


Coffee 


Biscuit 


Dinner 

Roast  beef 

Potatoes  baked  in  pan 
Celery  Squash 

Asparagus  salad 

Vienna  peach  parfait 

Sponge  cake  Coffee 

Supper 
Oyster  patties 

Preserves  Chocolate  cake 

Tea 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        23 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  apples 

Uncooked  cereal 

Broiled  honeycomb  tripe 

Graham  rolls  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Banana  and  nut   salad 
Biscuit  Preserves 

Sugar  cookies 
Tea 

Dinner 

Roast  beef  in  Mexican  sauce 

Boiled  potatoes  Spinach 

Steamed  chocolate  pudding  with  creamy  sauce 

Coffee 
TUESDAY 

Breakfast 
Stewed  prunes 

Omelet 

Toast  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream  tomato  soup 

Croutons 

Maple  gingerbread 
Tea 

Dinner 

Roast  stuffed  veal 
Mashed  potatoes  Lettuce 

Succotash 

Lemon  sherbet 

Cake  Coffee 


24  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

SPRING  MENUS— MAY 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 
Cereal  with  figs  and  cream 

Crisp  bacon 
Muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 
Vegetable  salad 

Corn  sticks  Cold  sliced  ham 

Fruit  Cookies 

Dinner 

Broiled  steak 

Mashed  potatoes  Peas 

Lettuce  with  dressing 

Spanish  cream 
Chocolate  sponge  cake 
THURSDAY 

Breakfast 
Oranges 

Eggs  baked  in  casseroles 

Hominy  muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Spanish  fricassee  of  chicken 

Rolls 

Bananas  and  cream 
Cookies  Tea 

Dinner 
Clear  soup  with  croutons 

Potroast  of  beef 

Boiled  potatoes  Brown  gravy 

String  beans 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        25 

Spiced  rice  pudding 

Small  coffee 
FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  apples 

Cereal  with  cream 

Broiled  bacon  Rye  muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scalloped  salmon 

Dandelion  and  mint  salad 

Gingerbread 

Cream  cheese 

Dinner 

Mackerel  (baked  in  paper  bag) 
Baked  potatoes  Peas 

Tomato  salad 
Steamed  fruit  pudding  with  hard  sauce 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 
Baked  rhubarb  with  orange 

Fish  hash 
Corn  bread  Coffee 

Luncheon 
Escalloped  potatoes  and  eggs 

Dandelion  salad 
Sugar  cookies  Tea 

Dinner 

Panned  mutton  chops 
Mashed  potato  Creamed  onions 

Radishes 
Ginger  cream 
Lady  fingers 


26     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced  oranges 

Omelet 

Sally  Lunns  Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast  beef 

Potatoes  baked  in  pan 
Celery  Asparagus  on  toast 

Ice  cream  with  maple  sauce 

Small  cakes  Small  coffee 

Supper 

Shrimp  mystery  in  chafing  dish 

Toast 
Sponge  cake  Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  apples 
Country  sausage 

Bread-crumb  griddle  cakes  with  syrup 
Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream  of  celery  soup 

Crisp  crackers 

Potato  salad  Cheese  balls 

Preserved  peaches  Cake 

Dinner 

Roast  beef  (reheated) 

Potato  puff  Spanish  onions 

Rhubarb  tarts  Small  coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        27 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal  with  dates  and  cream 

Broiled  finnan  haddie 
Plain  muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 
Potato  omelet 

Lettuce  with  French  dressing 
Fruit  dumplings  Tea 

Dinner 

Veal  in  casserole  with  vegetables 
Succotash  Celery 

Orange  and  lemon  sherbet 
Cake  Small  coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Fruit 

Cereal  with  cream 

Crisp  bacon  Potato  cakes 

Toast  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Macaroni  with  sausages 

Apple  and  celery  salad 

Cookies  Tea 

Dinner 

Roast  beef   pie 

Spinach  Tomato  salad 

Pineapple  Bavarian  cream 

Small  coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 
Fruit  Cereal 


28     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Boiled  eggs  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Baked  sliced  ham 
Preserves  Small  cakes 

Orange  Pekoe  tea 

Dinner 
Beef  stew  with  dumplings 

String  beans 
Tomato  and  horseradish  salad 

Crackers 
Charlotte  russe  Small  coffee 

SUMMER  MENUS— JUNE 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Strawberries  and  cream 

Baked  eggs  Bacon  curls 

Raised  muffins  Coffee 

Dinner 

Mock  bisque  soup 
Roast  lamb  Brown  gravy 

Mashed  potatoes 
Fresh  asparagus  with  drawn  butter 

Vanilla  ice  cream 
Strawberry  sauce  Coffee 

Supper 

Fruit  salad 

Cream  mayonnaise 

Toast  Chocolate 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Fruit 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        29 

Baked  salt  mackerel 
Graham  muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Poached  eggs  with  asparagus 
Cookies  Tea 

Dinner 

Lamb  timbales 

Creamed   carrots  Baked   potatoes 

Lemon  bread  pudding 

Coffee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Strawberries  Cereal 

Bacon  Corn  cake 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Luncheon  cheese 

Strawberries 
Cake  Tea 

Dinner 
Cream  of  pea  soup 

Broiled  steak 

Fried  potatoes  Lettuce  salad 

Cream  cheese  Wafers 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges  sliced 

Minced  lamb  on  toast 

Hot  rolls  Coffee 


30  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Luncheon 

Sausages  with  bananas 

Graham  toast 

Tea 

Dinner 

Tomato  soup 

Crisp  crackers  Baked  stuffed  shad 

Potato  balls 

Maitre  d'hotel  butter 

Sponge  cake  with  whipped  cream 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed  prunes 

Boiled  shad  roe 

Corn   muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scalloped  fish  in  shells 

Rye  biscuit 

Cocoa 

Dinner 

Potato   soup 

Tongue  in  casserole 

Boiled  new  potatoes 

Buttered  string  beans 

Strawberry  parfait  Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced  bananas 

Creamed  codfish  on  toast 

Corn  cake  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Egg  salad 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        31 

Cheese  breadsticks 
Cookies  Tea 

Dinner 

Clam  chowder 

Baked  halibut 

Hashed  brown  potatoes 

Sliced  cucumbers  Chiffonade  dressing 

Caramel  custard  Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal  with  cream 

Broiled  ham  Fried  potatoes 

Toast  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Curried  eggs 

Rice  border 

Cake  Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream  of  fish  soup 
Cold  tongue  with  jellied  vegetables 

Baked  macaroni 
Gingerbread  Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Hominy   and   cream 

Fish  balls  and  bacon 

Parker  House  rolls 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Planked  salmon  with  potato  balls 
Fresh  asparagus  on  cream  toast 


32     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Fresh  cherry  pie  Coffee 

Supper 

Welsh  rarebit 

Pineapple  salad 

Cream  cheese  Crackers 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 
Oranges 

Cereal  with  cream  Plain  omelet 

Muffins  Coffee 

Dinner 

Casserole  of  lamb 

Boiled  new   potatoes 

Tomato  and  olive  salad  with  mayonnaise 

Toasted  crackers 
Nut  tapioca  Coffee 

Supper 
Cold  deviled  eggs 

Hot  rolls 

Strawberries  and  cream 
Cocoa 

SUMMER  MENUS— JULY 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Raspberries  and  cream 

Cereal  Muffins 

Broiled  bacon  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Codfish  puff 

Sliced  tomatoes  Rolls 

Iced  tea  Wafers 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        33 

Dinner 

Broiled  lamb   dhops 
Currant  mint   sauce 

Boiled  rice 

Tomato  and  lettuce  salad 

Blancmange  with  raspberry  sauce 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Uncooked  cereal  with  cream 

Plain  omelet  Toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Finnan  haddie  on  toast 

Muffins 
Gingerbread  Tea 

Dinner 

Clear  soup 

Baked  ham 

New  buttered  potatoes 

Swiss  chard 
Stuffed  tomato  salad 
Crackers  Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced  bananas 

Scrambled  eggs  on  toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cold  sliced  ham 

Cream  toast 

Cocoa 


34  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Dinner 

Roast  lamb  Mint  sauce 

Roasted  potatoes 

Green  string  beans 

Lettuce  salad 

Chili  dressing 

Caramel  bread  pudding 

Coffee 
FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Raspberries 

Boiled  cooked  ham 

(left  from  Wednesday) 

Creamed  potatoes  Hot  rolls 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Consomme,  garnish  of  rice  and  red  peppers 

Baked  halibut 

Fresh  green  peas 

New  buttered  potatoes 

Dressed  cucumbers 

Vanilla  ice  cream 

Hot  chocolate  sauce 

Cake  Coffee 

Supper 
Shrimp  and  green  pea  salad 

Lettuce  sandwiches 
Fruit  punch  Cake 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed   rhubarb 

Minced  lamb  on  toast 

Biscuits  Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS         35 

Luncheon 

Eggs  in  baked  potatoes 
Popovers  Tea 

Dinner 

Mock  bisque  soup 
Creamed  salmon  in  shells 

Rice   timbales 

Vegetable  salad  with  mayonnaise 
Lemon  bread  pudding  Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 
Hominy  and  cream 

Fish  balls  Baked  beans 

Rolls  Coffee 

Dinner 

Clear  soup 

Baked  chicken  with  stuffing 

Mashed  potato 
Boiled  Bermuda  onions 

Romaine  salad 

Cheese  Crackers 

Raspberry   shortcake  Coffee 

Supper  (Company) 
Creamed  crab  meat  (in  chafing  dish) 

Toast  Ripe  olives 

Mint  punch  Cake 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 
Uncooked  cereal 

Omelet  Muffins 

Coffee 


36  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Dinner 

Cream  of  onion  soup 

Potroast  of  beef 
Scalloped  tomatoes 

Baked  macaroni 
Fruit  Crackers  and  cheese 

Supper 

Jellied  chicken  and  eggs 

Hot   biscuits 

Gingerbread  with  marshmallow  sauce 
Tea 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Currants 

Poached  eggs  on  toast 
Coffee 

Dinner 

Baked  stuffed  fish 

Sliced  cucumbers 

French  fried  potatoes 

Scalloped    eggplant 

Graham  torte 

Coffee 

Supper 

Cold  potroast  of  beef 

Jellied  vegetables  Baked  potatoes 

Soft  custard 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Beef  hash  Corn  muffins 

Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        37 

Dinner 

Veal  cutlet,  brow^i  sauce 
Green  peas  Mashed  potatoes 

Tomato  salad 

Cold  cabinet  pudding 

Coffee 

Supper 

Fish  croquettes  with  tomato  sauce 

Rolls 
Macedoine  of  fruit 

SUMMER  MENUS— AUGUST 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Blueberries 

Broiled  fresh  mackerel 
Corn  muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scrambled  eggs  on  cream  toast 

Blueberry  cake 

Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato  and  corn  soup 

Baked  halibut  with  hollandaise  sauce 

Boiled  potatoes  .  Green  peas 

Apricot  pie  Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 
Uncooked  cereal 

Shirred  eggs 
Blueberry  muffins  Coffee 


38  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Luncheon 

Salad  of  halibut  and  peas  with  piquant  mayonnaise 
Rolls  Iced  tea 

Cookies 
Dinner 

Boiled  fowl  with  celery  sauce 

Rice  Green  corn  on  cob 

Tomato  and  cucumber  salad 

Lemon  pudding 

Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Cantaloupe 

Hominy  and  cream 

Fish  balls  and  bacon 

Hot  rolls  Coffee 

Dinner 
Cream  of  lettuce  soup 

Roast  lamb 
Currant  jelly  sauce 

Riced  potatoes 

Baked,  stuffed  tomatoes 

Frozen  apricots  Coffee 

Supper 
Chicken  rechauffe  (chafing  dish) 

Graham  bread  and  butter 
Preserved  figs  Iced  tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 
Uncooked  cereal  and  cream 

Creamed  dried  beef 
Corn  cake  Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        39 

Luncheon 

Baked  beans  (reheated) 

Toasted  graham  bread 

Cocoa — hot  or  iced 

Dinner 

Cold  roast  lamb 

Potato  croquettes 

Scalloped  eggplant 

Blueberry  pie  Coffee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  sweet  apples  with  cream 

Toast  Broiled  bacon 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Luncheon  cheese 

Sliced  tomatoes  with  French  dressing 
Tea  Cookies 

Dinner 

Spanish  fricassee  of  chicken 
Green   corn   on   cob 

Lettuce  salad 

Cream  cheese  with  currant  jelly 

Wafers  Cold  caramel  custard 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Minced  lamb  on  toast 

Plain  muffins 

Coffee 


40  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Luncheon 

Scalloped  chicken  and  corn 
Toast  Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken  soup 

Broiled  steak 

Baked  stuffed  tomatoes 

Mashed  potatoes 

Baked  blueberry  pudding  with  Munroe  sauce 
Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Blackberries 

Calves'  liver  and  bacon 

Sour  cream  biscuit  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Escallop  of  green  corn 
Sliced  cucumbers 

Fresh  rolls 
Tea  Cake 

Dinner 
Vegetable  soup 

Veal  loaf 
Boiled  macaroni  and  tomato  sauce 

Spinach 

Coffee  ice  cream 
Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Cooked  cereal 

Baked  eggs 

Muffins  Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        41 

Luncheon 

Cold  ham 

Spinach  salad  and  mayonnaise 
Rolls  Cocoa 

Dinner 
Tomato  soup  with  macaroni 

Baked  stuffed  bluefish 

Fried  potatoes  Creamed  cucumbers 

Grape  juice  souffle 

Coffee 


SATURDAY 


Toast 


Coffee 


Breakfast 

Blueberries 
Broiled  cooked  ham 

Luncheon 

Scalloped  fish  in  shells 

Peanut  butter  pinwheels 

Iced  coffee 

Dinner 
Cream  of  cucumber  soup 

Broiled  chops 
Baked  creamed  potatoes 

Green  corn 

Tomato  and  lettuce  salad 

Rolled,  toasted  sandwiches 

Coffee 


AUTUMN  MENUS— SEPTEMBER 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Cooked  cereal 


42     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Poached  eggs  on  toast 
Coffee 

Dinner 

Tomato  soup  (without  stock) 
Crisp  crackers 
Broiled  steak 

Hashed  potatoes  Fried  summer  squash 

Apple  pie  Coffee 

Supper 

Cold  corned  beef 
Vegetable  salad  Bread 

Peaches — sliced 
Cake  Tea 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Raspberries  (late)  and  cream 

Broiled  tomatoes  on  cream  toast 

Coffee 

Dinner 
Cream  of  cucumber  soup 

Cold  sliced  lamb 

Jellied  vegetables  Baked  potatoes 

Cherry  tapioca 

Coffee 

Supper 

Corn  chowder  (green  corn) 

Hot  gingerbread 

Cottage  cheese 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS 
Fried  corn  meal  mush 


43 


Bacon 


Green  corn 


Dinner 

Clear  soup 

Roast  chicken 

Orange  salad 
Sour  cream  pie 

Supper 

Lamb  souffle 

Fresh  rolls 

Macedoine  of  fruit 


Coffee 


Boiled  rice 


THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Cooked  cereal 

Creamed   dried  beef 

Toast  Coffee 

Dinner 

Vegetable  soup 
Lamb  chops  Turkish  pilaf 

Fried  eggplant 
Blueberry  pie  Coffee 

Supper 
Lobster  and  spinach  salad 

Rolls 
Iced  tea  Cookies 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  apples  and  cream 

Bacon  and  potato  omelet 

Coffee  Rolls  (reheated) 


44     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Dinner 
Chicken  and  corn  soup 

Baked  bluefish 

Dressed  sliced  cucumbers 

Pear  condet  Coffee 

Supper 
Baked   chicken  hash 

Sliced  tomatoes 
Sponge  cake  Iced  tea 

SATURDAY 

-     Breakfast 
Uncooked  cereal 
Sliced  bananas  and  cream 
Muffins  Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast  beef 

Franconia  potatoes 

Scalloped  squash 

Tomato  and  lettuce  salad  with  French  dressing 
Banana  compote  Coffee 

Supper 

Baked  beans 

Steamed  brown  bread 

Custards 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Cantaloupe 

Fish  balls 

Parker  House  rolls 
Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS         45 

Dinner    (Company) 

Consomme 
Chicken  Marengo   (served  in  small  casseroles) 

Green  corn  on  cob 
Fried  summer  squash 

Dressed  lettuce 

Cream  cheese  Bar-le-duc 

Peach  ice  cream 

Coffee 

Supper 

Crab  and  tomato  salad  with  mayonnaise 
Rolls  (reheated) 
Grape  juice  punch 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced  peaches 
Uncooked  cereal  and  cream 

Scrambled  eggs 
Toast  and  coffee 

Luncheon 
Fried  tomatoes  on  toast 

Hot  gingerbread 
Cottage  cheese  Tea 

Dinner 

1    Corn  and  tomato  soup 

Baked  shoulder  of  lamb  with  currant  mint  sauce 

Green  peas  and  pimientos 

Mashed  potatoes 

Peach  ice  cream 

Coffee 


46     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed  prunes 

Creamed  chicken  on  toast 

(chicken  left  from  Sunday) 

Muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 
Lamb  broth  Baked  corn  custard 

Popovers 
Cake  Cocoa 

Dinner 

Steak  a  la  Stanley 

Baked  potatoes 

Lima  beans 

Spinach  salad 

Spanish  cream  Coffee 

AUTUMN  MENUS— OCTOBER 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 
Pears  and  grapes 
Hominy  and  cream 

Plain  omelet 
Popovers  Coffee 

Luncheon 
Cream  of  rice  soup 

Toasted  crackers 

Cold  ham  with  lettuce  salad 

Bread  and  butter  folds  Cocoa 

Dinner 

Clear  soup  with  spaghetti 
Roast  veal  (loin) 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        47 

Sour  cream  gravy 

Mashed  potatoes 

Scalloped  eggplant  and  tomato 

Romaine  salad  Chiffonade  dressing 

Apple  pie  Cheese 

Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges  Uncooked  cereal 

Cream  toast  Boiled  bacon 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scalloped  eggs  and  potatoes 

Fresh  rolls 
Sliced  peaches  Tea 

Dinner 

Cream  of  tomato  soup 
Croutons  Cold  sliced  veal 

Baked  potatoes 

Creamed  cauliflower 

Spanish  cream  Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit  (removed  from  shell) 

Creamed  ham  on  toast 
Rolls    (reheated)  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sardines  with  potato  salad 
Toast  Cocoa 

Dinner 
Boiled  cod  Hollandaise  sauce 


48     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Potato  rissolees 

Buttered  beets 

Cabbage  and  celery  salad 

Baked  caramel  custard  Caramel  sauce 

Coffee 


SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed  prunes 
Cooked  cereal  with  cream 

Fish  hash 
Corn  cake  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Creamed  veal  in  mashed  potato  border 

Hot  biscuits 
Fruitcake  Tea 

Dinner 

Fish  soup   (Swedish) 

Broiled  steak  French  fried  potatoes 

Baked  stuffed  onions  Celery 

Cold  cabinet  pudding 

Coffee 


SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes  Hominy  and  cream 

Fish  balls 

Parker  House  rolls 

Coffee 


o 

S-, 

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Q 
•si 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        49 

Dinner 
Consomme 

Olives  Celery 

Rolled  fillets  of  flounder  creamed 

Lobster  sauce 

Roast  lamb  Currant  jelly 

Roasted  potatoes  Creamed  turnips 

Peach  ice  cream  Coffee 

Supper 
Lobster  salad  Ripe  olives 

Bread  and  butter  sandwiches 
Cake  Coffee 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced  pears  with  cream 

Poached  egg  with  cream 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Casserole  of  beef  stew 

Lettuce  and  tomato  salad 

Steamed  fig  pudding 

Foamy  sauce 

Supper 
Cream  of  corn  soup 

Crisp  crackers 
Lettuce  and  beet  salad  with  mayonnaise 

Hot  biscuits 
Gingerbread  Tea 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 
Cereal  (uncooked) 


50     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Sliced  bananas  and  cream 

Corn  muffins  Bacon 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Boiled  tongue 

Plain  boiled  potatoes 

Scalloped  cabbage  Beet  and  green  pepper  salad 

Brown  Betty  Coffee 

Supper 

Eggs  and  celery  Creamed  potatoes 

Baking  powder  biscuits 

Preserved  figs 
Cake  Tea 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Minced  lamb  on  toast 
Muffins  Coffee 

Dinner 
Cream  of  cabbage  soup  (made  from  left-over 

scalloped  cabbage) 
Salmi  of  lamb  Stuffed  baked  potatoes 

Fried  eggplant 
Prune  whip  Custard  sauce 

Supper 
Cold  tongue  Potato   salad 

Rolls 

Baked  pears  with  Bangor  Brownies 
Tea 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 
Stewed  figs  Uncooked  cereal 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        51 

Baked  eggs  Corn  muffins 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream  of  pea  soup 
Baked  sliced  ham 

Turkish  pilaf  Green  string  beans 

Orange  and  mint  salad 

Custard  souffle 

Supper 
Cheese  pudding 

Popovers 

String  bean  and  pimiento  salad 
Cocoa  shells  Cake 


AUTUMN  MENUS— NOVEMBER 
SATURDAY 

Breakfast 
Baked  apples  with  cream 

Buckwheat  cakes 
Maple  syrup  Coffee 

Luncheon 
Minced  lamb  on  toast 

Baked  potatoes 
Fruit  Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato  soup 
Veal  cutlets  in  casserole 

Scalloped  tomatoes 

Lettuce  and  cream  cheese  salad 

Pumpkin  pie  Coffee 


52'     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Hominy  and  cream 

Baked   sausages 

Waffles 

Coffee 

Dinner 
Clear  soup 

Roast  capon,  giblet  gravy 

Cranberry  relish       Southern  sweet  peppers 

Baked  stuffed  potatoes 

Caramel  ice  cream 
Cake  Coffee 

Supper 
Milk  rabbit 

Olives  Pickles 

Lemon  sticks 

Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Uncooked  cereal 

Scrambled  eggs  with  bacon 

Muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 

French  toast 

Chocolate 

Dinner 
Creole  soup  (using  remainder  of  peppers  and  stuffing) 

Meat  balls,  curried  rice 

Peas  Onion  salad 

Bread  and  butter  pudding 

Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        53 


TUESDAY 


Cake 


Breakfast 

Stewed  apples 

Date  muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cold  chicken 

Hot  rolls 
Asparagus  salad 

Dinner 

Broiled  lamb  chops 

Delmonico  potatoes 

Green  string  beans 

Orange  salad 

Cheese  souffle 

Coffee 


Tea 


WEDNESDAY 


Breakfast 

Oranges,  sliced 

Minced  chicken  on  toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Summer  hot  pot 
Gingerbread  Tea 

Dinner 

Cream  of  pea  soup 
Roast  loin  of  pork 

Apple  sauce 

Roasted  potatoes  Creamed  onions 

Prune  souffle 

Coffee 


54     THE.  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced  bananas 

Oatmeal  and  cream 

Bacon  Eggs  to  order 

Coffee 

Luncheon 
Cream  of  onion  soup 

Crisp  crackers 

Pear  salad,  cream  mayonnaise 
Rolls  Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken  soup  with  rice 

Cold  roast  pork  (gravy  reheated) 

Browned  sweet  potatoes 

Baked  squash 

Apple  fritters,  vanilla  sauce 
Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Creamed  codfish 

Johnnycake 

Baked  potatoes 

Coffee 

Luncheon 
Salmon  salad 

Popovers 

Baked  custard 

Tea 

Dinner 

Plain  tomato  soup 
Baked  cod,  oyster  stuffing 


55 


Mock  hollandaise 

French  fried  potatoes 

Lettuce  salad,  chili  dressing 

Toasted  crackers  Cheese 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed  prunes 

Bacon  omelet 

Muffins  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scalloped  fish 

Steamed  brown  bread 

Sliced  oranges 
Cookies  Tea 

Dinner 
Mock  pork 

Hot  rolls  Fruit  salad 

Crackers  Cheeese  Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  apples  with  cream 

Fish  balls 
Brown  bread 

Waffles  Coffee 

Dinner 

Consomme  with  noodles 

Roast  beef,  horseradish  sauce 

Roasted  potatoes        Boiled  buttered  onions 

Molded  tomato  salad 
Crackers  Cheese 


56     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Cold  cabinet  pudding 

Coffee 

Supper 

Chicken  salad 

Lettuce  sandwiches 

Chocolate  nut  wafers  Preserves 

Tea 

WINTER  MENUS— DECEMBER 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed  apricots  Uncooked  cereal 

Scrambled  eggs 

Buttered  toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sweet  potato  toast 

Apple  sauce  Cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled  halibut 

Hollandaise  sauce 

Potatoes  with  parsley  String  beans 

Apple  pie  Cheese 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes  Cereal 

Bacon  Creamed  potatoes 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Stuffed  sweet  potatoes 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        57 

Biscuits  Preserves 

Tea 

Dinner 

Braised  tongue,  caper  sauce 
Mashed  potatoes  Parsnip  fritters 

Creamed  lima  beans 
Mock  cherry  pie  Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 
Baked  apples 

Uncooked  cereal  Cream  toast 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Beefsteak  with  onions 

Mashed  potatoes  Squash 

Celery  and  nut  salad 

Orange  ice 
Angel  cake  Coffee 

Supper 

Sweetbread  in  ramekins 

Rolls  Preserves 

Marshmallow  cake  Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed  prunes  Cereal 

Poached  eggs  on  toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Breaded  tongue,  tomato  sauce 

Scalloped  potatoes 
Cake  Tea 


58  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Dinner 

Flank  steak  en  casserole 

Apple  and  celery  salad 

Lemon  jelly  with  soft  custard  sauce 

Coffee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes  Uncooked  cereal 

Creamed  dried  beef  on  toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream  tomato   soup 

Doughnuts  Cheese 

Tea 

Dinner 

Mutton  chops 

Griddled  sweet  potatoes  Peas 

Brussels  sprouts 
Rice  pudding  Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 
Grapefruit 

Cereal 

Sausages  Rolls 

Coffee 

Luncheon 
Corn  soup 

Crisp  crackers         Toasted  English  muffins 
Marmalade  Tea 

Dinner 

Meat  loaf  with  hard  cooked  eggs 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        59 

Mashed  potatoes 

Spinach  Lima  beans 

Prune  souffle  Coffee 

CHRISTMAS  DAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit 
Baked  sausages 
Waffles,  syrup 

Coffee 
Christmas  Dinner 

Oyster  cocktails 
Brown  bread  folds 
Pimolas  Ripe  olives 

Clear  consomme,  garnish  of  pimiento  stars 
Roast  goose,   potato    stuffing    (garnish   of   fried   apple- 
rings  and  sausages) 
Candied  sweet  potatoes  Boiled  onions 

Dinner  salad 
Crackers  Cream  cheese 

English  plum  pudding,  brandy  sauce 
(Garnish  with  holly  and  send  lighted  to  table) 
Vanilla  ice  cream  with  red  bar-le-duc  currants 

Cakes,  candies,  nuts,  and  raisins 
Apollinaris  Black  coffee 

Supper 

Eggs  creole  (chafing-dish) 

Toasted  crackers  Olives 

Fruit  cake  Tea 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes  Cereal 

Broiled  bacon  Corn  muffins 

Coffee 


60  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Luncheon 

Italian    Polenta 

Baked  apples  Tea 

Dinner 

Baked  whitefish 

Boiled  potatoes  Cold  slaw 

Scalloped  tomatoes 

Mince  turnovers 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 
Oranges 

Uncooked  cereal 

Scrambled  eggs  Toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream  toast 
Cake  Chocolate 

Dinner 

Cold  roast  goose 
Stuffed  potatoes  Creamed  celery 

Cream  cheese  and  currant  salad 
Fruit  Coffee 

WINTER  MENUS— JANUARY 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal  with  dates 

French  toast 

Coffee 


Puree  of  Tomato. 
Recipe  on  Page  118. 


A  Carrot  Case  for  the  Thanksgiving  Relishes. 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        61 

Dinner 
Veal  with  sour  cream  gravy 

Mashed  potatoes 
Celery  Olives 

Mushrooms  in  cream 
Charlotte  russe  Coffee 

Supper 

Oyster  stew 

Rolls  Caramel  nut  cake 

Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit 

Sausage  pats 

Baked  potatoes 

Rolls  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream  of  corn  soup 
Crackers  Tea 

Dinner 

Roast  lamb 
Potatoes  baked  in  pan 
Green  beans  Turnips 

Scalloped  apple  pudding,  lemon  sauce 
Coffee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Apple  sauce 

Fried  fish 

Corn  muffins 

Coffee 


62  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Luncheon 

Cheese  and  nut  salad 
Spice  cake 

Tea 
Dinner 

Cottage  pie  with  sweet  potato  crust 

Cauliflower  Shell  beans 

Lemon  jelly,  soft  custard 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Uncooked  cereal 
Minced  lamb  on  toast 

Coffee 
Luncheon 

Sweet  potatoes  and  apples 
Biscuit  Molasses  drop  cakes 

Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled  ham 

Mashed  potatoes 

Celery  Scalloped  tomatoes 

Fig  pudding,  hard  sauce 

Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes 
Eggs  a  la  goldenrod 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sardines 


Sliced  oranges  Oatmeal  cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Macaroni  soup 

Cold  ham  Scalloped  potatoes 

Spinach  Corn 

Pineapple  tapioca 

Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Griddle  cakes  with  syrup 
Coffee 

Luncheon 
Ham  in  ramekins 

Muffins 
Cocoa  shells 

Dinner 
Southern  tomato  soup 

Baked  haddock 

French  fried  potatoes 

Jellied  vegetable  salad 

Cheese  straws  Indian  pudding 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  apples 

Uncooked  cereal 

Broiled  bacon 

Muffins  Coffee 


64  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Luncheon 

Split  pea  soup 

Croutons 
Preserves  Cake  Tea 

Dinner 
Veal  loaf  with  mushrooms 

Boiled  rice 
Celery  Escalloped  tomatoes 

Apple  turnovers 
Cheese  Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Baked  beans  Brown  bread 

Fish  cakes  Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast  beef 
Mashed  potatoes  .  Carrots  and  peas 

Apple  and  date  salad 
i  Chocolate  ice  cream 

Sponge  cake  Coffee 

Supper 

Scallops  a  la  Newburgh 

Biscuits 

Grape  marmalade 
Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes 

Fried  mush  with  syrup 
Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS         65 

Luncheon 
Baked  bean  soup 

Apple  sauce 

Cocoanut  cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Beef  and  vegetables  in  casserole 
Romaine,  French  dressing 

Jellied  walnuts 
Chocolate   cake  Coffee 

WINTER   MENUS— FEBRUARY 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 
Cereal 

Buckwheat  cakes 
Coffee 

Luncheon 

Creamed  codfish  with  cheese 

Oatmeal  muffins 

Maple  apple  sauce 

Cookies 

Dinner 

English  beef  soup 
Ham  and  macaroni  timbales 

Cole  slaw 

Chocolate  blancmange 
Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 
Grapefruit 


66     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Uncooked  cereal 

Creamed  dried  beef  on  toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 
Chicken  salad 

Preserves 
Cake  Chocolate 

Dinner 
Roast  lamb 

Mashed  potatoes  Peas 

Carrots  Apple  mint  jelly 

Indian  pudding  Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked  bananas 

Sausages  Corn  cake 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Banana  and  nut  salad 

Lettuce  sandwiches 
Jumbles  Tea 

Dinner 

Consomme 

Cold  roast  lamb 

French  fried  potatoes 

Celery  relish  Shell  beans 

Apricot  trifle  Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed  prunes 

Uncooked  cereal 

Poached  eggs  Coffee 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        67 

Luncheon 

Hashed  lamb  with  English  walnuts 

Pickles 

Chocolate  cake 
Tea 

Dinner 

Finnan  haddie  baked  in  milk 
Boiled  potatoes  Tomatoes 

Asparagus  salad 
Valentine  cakes  Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal  with  dates 
Muffins 
Coffee 

Luncheon 

Omelet 

Toasted  English  muffins 

Orange  marmalade 

Tea 

Dinner 

Hamburg  steak 
Scalloped  potatoes 

String  beans  Corn 

Lemon  jelly 

Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Apples 
Uncooked  cereal 


68     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Broiled  bacon 
Toast  Coffee 

Dinner 
Roast  duck 

Mashed  potatoes  Onions 

.  Celery  Apple  sauce 

Mince  pie 
Cheese  Coffee 

Supper 

Pineapple  and  grapefruit  salad 

Graham  nut  bread 

Marshmallow  cake 

Cocoa 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Broiled  ham 

Baked  potatoes 

Rolls  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Potato  soup 

Date  loaf  cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cold  roast  beef 
Mashed  potatoes  Turnips 

Cabbage  and  apple  salad 

Steamed  chocolate  pudding — Creamy  sauce 

Coffee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 
Grapes 


JUST  HOW  TO  PLAN  THE  MENUS        69 

Fried  fish 
Biscuits  Coffee 

Luncheon 

Rice  waffles  with  maple  syrup 
Grapefruit 
Tea     / 

Dinner 
Duck  soup 

Vegetables  en  casserole 

Scalloped  apple  pudding,  lemon  sauce 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes 

Hamburg  steak 
Baked   potatoes 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Potato  puffs 

Maple  apple  sauce 

Nut  cookies  Tea 

Dinner 

Baked  fresh  ham 

Potatoes  Cauliflower 

Spinach  salad  Orange  sherbet 

Cocoanut  cake 

Coffee 


BREAD 


By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

HE  term  bread  to  the  American  means  a 
product  made  of  white  flour.  I  am  not  an 
enemy  of  white  flour,  but  I  am  a  friend  of 
whole  wheat  flour.  There  are  many  brands 
of  white  flour.  For  practical  purposes  in 
the  kitchen  we  need  only  consider  flour  for 
bread  making  and  for  pastry  making.  The 
difference  between  these  two  classes  of  flours  is  chemical 
and  correspondingly  physical.  Bread  making  flours  are 
those  which  have  a  high  content  of  very  sticky  gluten. 
This  characteristic  favors  the  entangling  of  bubbles  of 
gas  produced  in  the  leavening  process  and  their  subse- 
quent expansion  held  in  the  meshes  of  the  gluten  to 
make  a  porous  bread.  In  pastry  the  leavening  process 
is  of  less  importance  and  hence  a  flour  with  a  smaller 
content  of  gluten,  a  less  sticky  kind,  may  be  employed. 
Or,  again,  a  flour  of  second  grade  containing  a  great  deal 
of  what  is  known  as  middlings  may  be  very  useful  for 
pastry  making,  especially  when  the  whiteness  of  the  fin- 
ished product  is  not  a  matter  of  very  great  importance. 
White  flour  is  the  typical  product  for  bread  making  in 
the  United  States.  In  Germany  and  Russia  rye  is  the 
principal  source  of  bread,  and  rye  is  used  among  our 
own  foreign-born  citizens  to  a  large  extent.  Indian  corn 
ranks  next  to  wheat  as  a  source  of  bread  supply  in  the 
United  States.  This  is  especially  true  in  the  border 

71 


72     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

and  southern  states,  where  a  meal  without  corn  bread  is 
considered  incomplete.  There  is  no  very  great  differ- 
ence in  the  nutritive  properties  of  the  different  cereals. 
Indian  corn  has  less  protein  and  the  protein  is  less 
suitable  for  very  young  children.  Oat  flour  has  the 
largest  amount  of  protein,  and  it  is  quite  suitable  for 
nutritive  purposes,  though  it  does  not  rank  high  as  a 
bread  maker.  Barley,  rye,  and  buckwheat  occupy  in- 
termediate positions. 

So  important  is  bread  that  it  is  a  synonym  for  all 
food.  It  is  called  by  the  poet  "  the  staff  of  life."  Bread 
making  should  be  an  art  which  every  cook  should  learn. 
With  the  same  raw  materials  two  cooks  will  turn  out 
products  so  different  in  character  as  to  be  hardly  recog- 
nized as  kin.  The  French  and  Austrians  make  the  best 
bread  among  the  nations  of  the  earth.  The  characteris- 
tics of  the  loaf  are  largely  brought  about  by  the  amount 
of  manipulation,  the  kind  and  setting  of  the  yeast,  and 
the  speed  and  completeness  of  cooking.  Most  of  us 
like  a  bread  which  is  largely  crust.  The  long,  so-called 
French  loaf  may  very  properly  be  called  the  "  staff  of 
life  "  as  it  might  be  used  for  a  walking  stick.  Bread, 
that  is  to  say  cereals,  is  the  ideal  food.  It  is  ideal  both 
by  reason  of  its  economy  and  because  of  its  nutritive 
properties.  The  cook  should  learn  especially  to  make 
the  so-called  brown  breads,  which  are  not  only  palatable 
but  highly  wholesome.  It  is  a  mistake  to  feed  a  family 
nothing  but  white  flour  bread.  It  is  both  a  dietetic  and 
a  nutritional  mistake.  Nevertheless  white  flour  bread 
will  continue  to  be,  perhaps  for  many  years,  the  prin- 
cipal kind  of  bread  used  by  large  numbers  of  people, 
hence  the  methods  of  making  it  in  the  right  way  are  of 
supreme  importance. 

In  connection  with  the  subject  of  bread,  it  is  well  that 


Cream  Scones. 
Recipe  on  Page  po. 


Sally  Lunns. 
Recipe  on  Page 


Rusk  Squares  In  an  Attractive  Porringer  are  an  Acceptable 
Dish  for  the  Invalid. 


A  Service  for  the  Breakfast  Orange  that  is  Most 
Popular  where  the  Fruit  is  Grown. 


BREAD  73 

attention  should  be  called  to  leavening  agents.  There 
are  three  methods  for  leavening  bread.  First,  the  me- 
chanical method,  which  consists  in  the  admixture  of  air 
or  carbon  dioxid  in  the  kneading  of  the  dough.  This 
method  has  been  highly  praised  because  of  the  fact  that 
it  introduces  no  foreign  substances  into  the  loaf.  It 
requires,  however,  machinery  and  as  a  rule  is  not  avail- 
able for  family  purposes.  The  second  method  of  aeration 
consists  in  the  use  of  yeast.  Yeast-made  breads  are 
generally  the  best,  whether  eaten  cold,  as  is  advisable  in 
most  cases,  or  in  hot  rolls,  which  are  perhaps  the  most 
delicious  of  the  bread  products.  Good  yeast,  skillfully 
employed,  produces  from  the  sugar  of  the  flour  equal 
quantities  of  carbon  dioxid  and  alcohol.  Both  of  these 
are  in  a  gaseous  form  when  the  bread  is  baked  and  are 
active  in  the  aeration  process.  Only  small  quantities  of 
these  bodies  are  formed  and  the  alcohol  is  rapidly  dis- 
sipated during  the  process  of  baking  and  on  standing. 
Even  the  strictest  prohibitionist  may  not  refuse  to  eat 
yeast-raised  bread  because  it  may  contain  a  mere  trace 
of  alcohol !  Good  yeasts  also  add  a  distinctive  and  de- 
sirable flavor  to  the  loaf. 

The  third  method  of  aeration  is  all  too  common  be- 
cause of  its  cheapness  and  speed,  namely,  the  use  of 
leavening  powders.  These  "  baking  powders,"  so-called, 
xare  of  three  general  classes ;  first,  those  made  with  cream 
of  tartar,  as  the  acid  constituent  of  the  powder;  second, 
those  made  with  phosphoric  acid,  or  acid  calcium  phos- 
phate, as  the  acid  reagent,  and  third,  those  in  which  alum 
furnishes  the  acid  ingredient.  There, is  a  great  differ- 
ence of  opinion  respecting  the  excellence  and  wholesome- 
ness  of  these  classes  of  powder.  We  all  have  our  in- 
dividual preferences  and  as  all  of  these  powders  are  on 
the  market,  and  usually  correctly  labeled,  there  is  no 


74     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

reason  why  everyone  should  not  be  able  to  secure  the 
one  he  wants.  All  of  these  leavening  agents  leave  min- 
eral residues  in  the  finished  loaf.  The  cream  of  tartar 
powders  leave  a  residue  of  rochelle  salts,  that  is,  a 
double  tartrate  of  sodium  and  potassium.  The  phosphate 
powders  leave  a  residue  of  sodium  phosphate  and  the 
alum  powders  leave  a  residue  consisting  of  aluminum 
hydrate  and  sulphate  of  soda  (glauber's  salts).  In  my 
opinion,  the  ingestion  of  any  considerable  quantities  of 
any  of  these  ingredients  is  objectionable.  Personally,  I 
prefer  the  cream  of  tartar  powders;  others  prefer  the 
phosphate  powders,  and  some  believe  the  alum  powders 
to  be  no  more  objectionable  than  the  others.  "  You  pays 
your  money  and  you  takes  your  choice." 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  BREAD 


HE  first  and  most  important  "  must-have  "  is 
good  yeast.  I  have  come  to  depend  almost 
wholly  and  with  the  most  perfect  trust  on 
compressed  yeast.  If  your  grocer  keeps  yeast 
at  all,  it  will  be  fresh,  the  manufacturer  sees 
to  that,  as  the  stock  of  each  day  is  renewed 
and  the  old  yeast  cakes  are  taken  away.  Still, 
if  you  keep  it  yourself  for  a  few  days  in  a  refrigerator 
it  will  not  spoil.  Yeast  which  is  moist,  light  colored,  and 
of  "  reviving  smell,"  as  an  old  lady  I  know  expressed  it, 
is  all  right.  If  it  gets  dry,  brittle,  streaky,  and  smells  the 
opposite  of  "  reviving,"  throw  it  away ;  better  lose  two 
cents  than  twenty  cents'  worth  of  flour,  with  fire  and  labor 
added.  Be  very  careful  of  the  heat  of  the  water  in  which 
yeast  is  softened.  If  you  have  a  thermometer,  let  the 
water  be  sixty-eight  degrees;  if  you  have  to  trust  to  your 
hand,  let  it  be  very  surely  no  more  than  lukewarm. 

Then  the  flour — it  is  an  invariable  rule  to  use  bread 
flour  when  yeast  is  to  be  added.  Bread  flour  will  make 
tolerable  pie  or  cake,  but  pastry  flour  will  not  make  good 
bread.  If,  as  occasionally  occurs,  you  have  flour  whose 
nature  you  cannot  determine,  use  the  following  test : 
take  a  handful  and  close  the  fingers  tightly  over  it. 
If  it  remains  in  a  soft  velvety  lump,  even  after  the  fin- 
gers are  loosened,  it  is  pastry  flour.  Bread  flour  will 
be  dry  and  loose,  it  will  not  keep  in  shape. 

According  to  the  time  at  your  disposal,  allow  sufficient 
yeast  for  raising.  For  instance,  if  bread  is  wanted  made 

75 


76     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

and  baked  in  four  hours,  two  yeast  cakes  would  have 
to  be  allowed  to  the  recipe  I  have  given.  There  is  no 
danger,  should  compressed  yeast  be  used,  of  its  tasting 
in  the  bread.  This  is  called  the  quick-raising  method. 
In  a  temperature  of  about  sixty-eight  degrees  it  will  be 
ready  to  mold  two  and  a  half  hours  from  the  time  it  was 
set.  It  will  be  quite  as  good  bread  as  that  made  after 
the  slow-raising  method,  although  I  think  the  latter  will 
keep  moist  for  a  longer  time. 

I  have  heard  many  housewives  complain  of  bread 
souring.  Bread  sours  only  because  of  two  reasons — 
uncleanliness  in  the  making  or  the  utensils,  or  because 
it  was  allowed  to  stand  too  long  after  mixing.  When 
that  occurs,  the  yeast  has  done  its  work  completely,  and 
the  dangerous  bacteria  get  in  their  work,  exactly  in  the 
same  way  as  at  the  point  where  cider  changes  to  vinegar. 
I  have  found,  too,  that  in  hot  weather  milk  bread  will 
sour  much  more  quickly  than  if  bread  is  mixed  with 
water.  Then  there  is  the  dry  bread,  with  a  heavy  feel- 
ing about  it,  both  to  the  touch  and  to  the  palate.  Usually 
this  is  caused  either  by  too  much  flour  being  worked  into 
the  dough  or  by  heavy-handed  kneading.  Bread,  like 
cake,  pastry,  cookies,  and  biscuit,  has  a  point  where  just 
enough  flour  has  been  added  and  where  no  more  ought 
to  go  in.  This  amount  it  is  almost  impossible  for  a 
recipe  maker  to  determine,  because  there  are  so  many 
flours  and  the  wetting  capacities  of  two  are  hardly  ever 
alike.  It  is  a  case  of  experience.  A  practiced  hand  can 
tell  almost  the  instant  when  enough  flour  has  gone  into 
bread  by  a  certain  springy  feeling.  Then  tip  it  out  and 
begin  kneading.  It  may  seem  moist,  but  it  is  not  moist 
enough  to  stick  if  you  intervene  with  well-floured 
fingers  between  the  dough  and  the  cloth.  Knead  quickly 
and  lightly;  a  heavy  hand  which  pounds  bread  instead 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  BREAD  77 

of  molding  it  will  soon  thump  all  the  life  out  of  it,  and 
the  bread  will  have  the  texture  of  cheese. 


Bread 

Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  shortening,  either  butter 
and  lard  mixed  or  one  of  the  good  fats  on  the  market, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
into  a  bread-raiser,  and  pour  over  it  one  quart  of  boiling 
water.  Place  one  yeast  cake  in  half  a  cupful  of  luke- 
warm water  and  stir  with  a  teaspoon  till  softened.  When 
the  water  in  the  bread  pan  becomes  lukewarm,  pour  in 
the  yeast  and  stir  thoroughly.  Add  five  cupfuls  of  sifted 
bread  flour,  beating  it  as  it  goes  in  with  a  wire  whisk. 
When  it  becomes  too  thick  to  move  with  the  whisk,  use 
a  slitted  wooden  spoon  and  stir  thoroughly,  so  that  the 
flour  and  wetting  may  become  well  mixed.  Add  flour 
enough  to  knead.  When  it  is  spongy  but  not  dry,  turn  it 
out  on  a  well-floured  molding  cloth  and  knead.  It  is  the 
kneading  that  gives  it  the  satiny  smoothness  and  the 
elasticity  which  are  invariable  tests  of  good  bread.  It 
ought,  even  during  this  process,  to  begin  to  show  bubbles 
in  its  texture.  Knead  them  out,  as  much  as  possible. 
When  dough  is  put  back  in  the  pan  to  rise  with  bubbles 
showing  here  and  there,  it  will  be  full  of  holes  and  poor 
of  taste  when  baked.  After  the  kneading  is  finished  and 
the  dough. feels  as  smooth  as  silk,  wash  the  bread-raiser 
and  dry  it,  then  rub  well  inside  with  butter  or  lard  before 
putting  the  dough  back  again  for  the  second  raising.  In 
the  morning,  when  well  risen,  cut  it  down.  By  this 
process  I  mean  cutting  the  light  spongy  mass  through 
and  through  half  a  dozen  times  and  then  turning  it  over 
and  over  to  check  fermentation  for  a  short  time.  The 
cutting  takes  only  a  minute  or  two,  and  one  can  feel 


78     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

that  if  it  is  not  attended  to  for  half  an  hour,  the  bread 
will  not  sour.  It  does  not  hurt  it  at  all  if  it  has  to  be 
cut  down  a  second  time.  When  ready  to  care  for  it, 
toss  on  the  floured  molding  board  and  knead  again — 
slightly  this  time — till  every  air  bubble  disappears,  then 
put  it  in  greased  pans,  having  each  one  about  half  full. 
Cover  lightly,  set  in  a  warm  place,  and  allow  it  to  double 
its  bulk  before  putting  to  bake. 

This  recipe  will  make  four  good-sized  loaves.  The 
oven,  to  give  satisfactory  results,  ought  to  be  quite  hot 
when  the  bread  is  first  put  in.  If  you  bake  it  in  a  gas 
stove,  the  best  plan  is  to  light  both  burners  seven  or 
eight  minutes  before  the  bread  goes  in.  Set  it  on  the 
bottom  shelf,  then  allow  it  to  rise  to  double  its  bulk  and 
begin  to  brown  very  slightly.  Turn  out  one  burner  and 
finish  the  baking  in  a  cooler  oven.  This  does  away  with 
any  fear  of  burning;  it  bakes  the  bread  perfectly  and 
gives  a  much  nicer  crust  than  if  the  oven  is  very  hot 
all  the  time.  The  management  of  dampers  in  a  coal  or 
wood  stove  will  give  the  same  results.  According  to  the 
size  of  your  loaves,  bread  will  require  from  forty-five  to 
sixty  minutes  to  bake  well.  On  taking  it  from  the  oven 
set  the  loaves  on  a  wire  stand  or  sieve  to  cool.  Never 
wrap  them  steaming  hot  in  a  towel.  Frequently  one 
tastes  the  cloth  in  which  bread  has  been  wrapped,  or  the 
soap  with  which  the  cloth  was  washed.  Besides,  it  shuts 
the  steam  up  in  the  loaf,  making  it  damp  and  .clammy,  a 
sure  medium  for  the  cultivation  of  mold.  Allow  the 
bread  to  become  perfectly  cold  before  putting  it  away  in 
the  bread-box  or  jar,  then  keep  it  closely  covered. 

Swedish  Biscuit 

One  pint  of  milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  lard,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-half 


JUST  HOW-  TO  MAKE  BREAD  79 

of  a  compressed  yeast  cake.  Over  hot  water,  scald  the 
milk  and  set  it  aside  to  cool,  adding  to  it  the  lard,  sugar, 
and  salt.  When  it  is  lukewarm  stir  in  sufficient  flour 
to  make  a  batter,  then  beat  in  the  yeast  cake  which  has 
previously  been  softened  in  a  little  sweetened  water.  Add 
enough  more  flour  to  make  a  batter  as  stiff  as  you  can 
stir.  Cover,  and  set  in  a  warm  place  for  the  night. 
In  the  morning  work  into  the  dough  a  piece  of  soft  butter 
as  large  as  the  piece  of  lard,  and  if  eggs  are  plentiful  the 
biscuits  are  improved  by  working  in  an  unbeaten  egg,  but 
this  is  not  necessary.  Knead  upon  the  molding  board, 
adding  flour  until  it  ceases  to  stick.  When  shaping  them 
use  just  as  little  flour  as  possible,  and  make  into  round 
balls  either  by  working  on  the  board  or  by  flouring  the 
hands  and  rolling  between  the  palms.  Place  in  a  drip- 
ping pan,  an  inch  or  more  apart.  Cover  the  pans  with 
paper  and  set  dough  to  raise.  As  they  raise  they  will 
gradually  flatten  out.  When  light  and  fluffy  bake  in 
quick  oven.  This  will  make  about  three  dozen  biscuits. 


Coffee  Cakes 

These  coffee  cakes  are  made  from  the  same  dough  as 
the  Swedish  biscuits,  except  that  a  little  more  shortening, 
than  is  directed,  is  worked  in,  in  the  morning.  When 
ready  to  shape  them  stir  enough  powdered  cinnamon 
into  about  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  to  give  it  a 
brownish  color.  Take  a  piece  of  dough  two-thirds  the 
size  of  a  biscuit  and  roll  it  either  on  the  board  or  be- 
tween the  hands,  until  you  have  a  long  round  strip  like 
a  pencil,  six  or  seven  inches  in  length.  Drop  it  lightly 
upon  the  board,  coiling  it  round  and  round,  and  then 
lightly  drop  it  into  the  cinnamon  and  sugar,  and  from 


8o     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

there  .to  the  pan  to  raise.     Bake  in  a  quick  oven  until 
a  golden  brown. 

Bread  Puffs 

Knead  raised  bread  dough  and  roll  three-fourths  of 
an  inch  thick.  Cut  in  squares,  rounds,  or  strips,  and 
fry  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in 
60  counts. 

Parker  House  Rolls 

Put  one-half  cake  of  compressed  yeast  to  soak  in  one- 
half  cupful  of  lukewarm  water.  In  a  mixing  bowl  place 
four  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  little 
salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  of  lard,  and  two 
cupfuls  of  boiling  milk.  When  lukewarm,  add  dissolved 
yeast,  stir  well,  and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise,  adding 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  After  the  dough 
has  risen  to  double  its  size,  form  into  rolls,  adding  no 
flour  at  this  time,  but  rubbing  the  ringers  and  board  with 
the  butter,  if  necessary,  to  prevent  it  from  sticking.  Roll 
one-half  inch  thick,  cut  with  a  small  biscuit  cutter,  then 
roll  each  biscuit  to  make  them  oblong  in  shape,  spread 
with  a  little  butter,  fold  over,  and  place  on  the  baking 
pan.  Let  them  rise  before  baking.  If  mixed  in  the 
morning,  knead  at  noon.  This  quantity  will  make  three 
dozen  rolls. 

Pennsylvania  Dutch  Bread 

Four  cupfuls  of  soft  bread  sponge,  one  and  one-half 
cupfuls  of  sugar  (or  a  little  less),  one  cupful  of  currants 


8i 

and  raisins  (seed  the  raisins),  two  eggs  beaten  separately, 
and  enough  flour  to  make  stiff.  Do  not  knead,  but  stir 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  set  it  to  rise,  and  when  twice 
its  original  size,  bake  in  two  bread  pans. 


HE  family  of  hot  breakfast  breads  is  a  large 
one.  The  raised  roll  appears  often  because 
the  bread  raised  with  yeast  is  almost  always 
welcome,  and  as  home-made  bread  is  made 
as  often  as  two  or  three  times  a  week,  it  is 
very  easy  to  save  a  little  of  the  dough  before 
its  last  raising  for  the  morning  roll.  This 
is  accomplished  by  reserving  part  of  the  dough  when 
putting  into  the  pans.  Set  away  in  a  well-greased  bowl, 
covered  closely,  and  keep  in  the  refrigerator  until  early 
the  next  morning.  Then  the  cold  dough  is  made  into 
rolls,  placed  in  pans,  and  put  in  a  warm  place  for  half 
or  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  when  they  will  be  quite 
Jight  and  ready  for  the  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes'  baking 
in  a  rather  hot  oven.  If  these  rolls  are  brushed  with 
melted  butter  just  before  they  go  into  the  oven,  it  will 
insure  a  rich  tender  crust.  A  little  butter  and  a  very 
little  sugar  and  occasionally  an  egg  are  often  worked  into 
the  dough  when  making  into  rolls,  as  this  secures  a  rich 
roll. 

Wherever  clarified  fat  is  suggested  for  uses  in  the 
place  of  butter,  double  the  quantity  of  salt  should  be 
used.  The  drop  biscuit  and  the  split  rolls  are  suggested 
for  use  at  luncheon,  afternoon  tea,  or  for  supper,  in  the 
place  of  a  sandwich.  These,  if  filled  with  a  salad  may- 


82     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

onnaise  mixture,  or  any  good  sandwich  filling,  will  prove 
a  most  satisfactory  and  dainty  substitute  for  the  bread 
sandwich. 

Sally  Lunn 

At  ten  or  eleven  o'clock  cream  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  then  two  yolks 
of  eggs,  beaten,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  cupful 
of  milk.  Now  add  one-half  a  yeast  cake  dissolved  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  tepid  water  and  three  cupfuls  of 
flour.  Beat  well,  add  the  two  whites  beaten  stiff.  Put 
in  a  buttered,  round  pan  with  a  center  tube.  In  the 
morning  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  half  an  hour.  Cover 
with  maple  sugar  boiled  down  to  almost  a  candy.  This 
will  form  a  crisp  crust  and  be  delicious. 


Ragga  Muffin 

Roll  bread  dough  out  in  thin,  long  strips,  spread  them 
with  a  hard  sauce  of  butter  and  sugar  creamed  together 
and  flavor  with  vanilla,  nutmeg,  or  cinnamon,  sprinkle 
with  currants  and  raisins,  roll  up  and  cut  into  buns. 
When  light,  bake  and  glaze  over  with  sugar  and  hot 
water. 

Graham  Crisps 

Mix  two  cupfuls  of  graham  flour  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  one  cupful  of  water.  Roll  out  rather  thin. 
Cut  into  rounds.  Put  a  layer  on  a  greased  pan,  brush 
them  with  melted  butter  and  put  on  another  layer,  pinch 
edges  together,  brush  again  with  butter,  prick  clear 


Ragga  AI  tiffins. 
Recipe  on  Page  82. 


Parker  House  Rolls. 
Recipe  on  Page  80. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  BREAD  83 

through  both  layers  in  several  places  and  bake  twenty 
minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 


Raised  Split  Rolls 

In  the  evening,  perhaps  just  after  dinner,  take  one  cup- 
ful of  hot  potato,  which  has  been  pressed  through  a 
coarse  sieve — the  potato  may  be  either  boiled,  steamed, 
or  baked — and  mix  it  with  two  tablespoon fuls  of  lard 
and  the  same  of  butter — both  soft,  but  not  melted.  Now 
add  one-quarter  of  a  yeast  cake  softened  in  one-half 
cupful  of  tepid  milk,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  egg  yolk,  well  beaten. 
Stir  well  and  sift  in  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 
Beat  again  and  add  egg  white  beaten  stiff,  and  place  bowl 
in  a  warm  place  until  sponge  is  light  and  double  in  bulk ; 
then  add  enough  flour  to  knead,  but  use  as  little  flour  as 
possible.  About  ten  o'clock  roll  out  very  thin,  less  than 
one-quarter  of  an  inch,  cut  with  finger  biscuit  cutter, 
place  on  well-buttered  tin  and  brush  each  one  with  melted 
butter.  Put  another  layer  of  biscuit  on  top  of  these, 
brush  tops  with  melted  butter,  cover  and  set  in  very  cool 
place  until  morning.  Then  put  the  biscuits  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise.  When  double  in  bulk  again — this  will  take 
about  half  an  hour — bake  about  fifteen  minutes  in  a  hot 
oven.  The  secret  of  their  success  is  to  roll  them  very, 
very  thin. 

Entire  Wheat  or  Graham  Muffin 

Mix  one  cupful  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  entire  wheat  or 
graham  flour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  three  and  one- 
half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one-half  teaspoonful 


84     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

of  salt,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  or  clarified  fat, 
melted.  Add  one  cupful  of  milk  and  one  egg  beaten 
separately.  Half  fill  buttered  muffin  pans  and  bake 
twenty-five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 


Entire  Wheat  Pancakes 

Mix  one  cupful  of  entire  wheat  with  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  two  teaspoon fuls  of  baking  powder, 
thin  with  milk,  add  egg  yolk,  beaten;  then,  the  last  mo- 
ment, the  white  beaten  stiff.  Bake  on  a  griddle. 


Raised  Muffin 

To  one  cupful  of  scalded  milk  and  one  cupful  of  boiled 
water  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  four  tablespoon- 
fuls sugar,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cool  and  add 
one-quarter  of  a  yeast  cake  softened  in  one-quarter  cupful 
of  warm  water,  one  egg  yolk,  and  three  and  one-half 
cupfuls  of  flour.  Then  fold  in  the  egg  white,  beaten 
stiff.  Beat  well,  cover,  and  let  raise  until  morning.  But- 
ter muffin  rings,  fill  half  full,  let  raise  half  an  hour,  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  twenty  minutes. 


Buckwheat  Cakes 

Soak  one-third  cupful  of  fine  bread  crumbs  in  two  cup- 
fuls of  scalded  milk  thirty  minutes ;  add  one-half  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  one-quarter  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-half 
cupful  of  water,  and  real  buckwheat  to  make  a  batter 
thin  enough  to  pour.  In  the  morning,  stir  well,  add  one 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  BREAD  85 

tablespoonful  of  molasses,  one-quarter  teaspoonful  of 
soda  in  one-quarter  cupful  of  lukewarm  water,  and  bake 
on  a  griddle.  Save  one-half  cupful  of  the  mixture  for 
"  seed."  This  "  seed  "  should  be  put  in  a  glass  jar,  cov- 
ered, and  put  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  required  again 
and  then  used  in  the  following  manner :  Put  two  cupfuls 
of  water  or  milk  in  a  bowl  at  night:  add  enough  buck- 
wheat to  make  a  thin  batter,  then  add  the  "  seed."  Cover 
and  put  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  In  the  morning  add 
salt,  molasses,  and  soda  and  a  little  bread  flour,  if  neces- 
sary, to  make  batter  the  right  consistency.  These  should 
be  baked  as  soon  as  the  soda  is  put  in.  One  tablespoonful 
of  maple  syrup  improves  them  if  added  just  before 
baking.  Use  the  old-fashioned  buckwheat  flour. 


Apple  Johnnycake 

Very  few  people  have  ever  heard  of  this  old-fashioned 
dish,  apple  Johnnycake,  which  is  always  an  acceptable 
addition  to  the  breakfast  menu.  Make  as  follows :  One 
cupful  of  sour  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  or 
shortening,  one  cupful  of  cornmeal,  and  two-thirds  of  a 
cupful  of  flour  sifted  together  with  one-quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Cut  into  small  pieces  four  apples  and 
stir  well  into  the  batter.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 


Nut  Bread 

Sift  together  four  cupfuls  of  flour  and  four  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking  powder.  To  one-half  of  this,  add  one 
cupful  of  chopped  walnut  meats  and  half  a  cupful  of 


86     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

raisins.  Now  beat  together  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  milk,  and  one  egg. 
Add  the  sifted  flour,  then  the  flour  containing  the  nuts 
and  raisins.  Put  it  in  two  well-greased  pans,  let  it  stand 
about  twenty  minutes,  and  bake  for  nearly  an  hour  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Custard  Corn  Bread 

Four  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk,  and  three  cupfuls  of 
cornmeal.  Stir  the  meal  into  the  milk  as  for  mush,  add 
one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and 
let  this  cool.  When  cool  add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder.  Bake  as  other  corn  bread. 


Rough  Robin 

Six  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  cupfuls  of  rice  flour,  one  cup- 
ful of  lard  or  butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  three  cupfuls 
of  currants,  three  cupfuls  of  Sultana  raisins,  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  ground 
caraway  seeds,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Rub  the  butter  or  lard  into  the 
flour  and  rice  flour,  add  the  sugar,  baking  powder,  salt, 
spices,  and  fruit.  Mix  with  buttermilk  to  make  a  stiff 
batter.  Turn  into  a  large  buttered  and  floured  cake  tin. 
Bake  slowly  for  two  hours. 

Bishop's  Bread 

Three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  raisins, 
one  cupful  of  split,  unblanched  almonds,  two  cupfuls  of 


8; 

flour,  two  teaspobnfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  soda,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Flavor  with 
lemon  or  vanilla.  Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  until  very 
light.  Then  add  flour,  soda,  and  cream  of  tartar,  and 
lastly  the  nuts  and  raisins.  Spread  in  thin  sheet  on  but- 
tered tin,  and  cut  in  small  oblongs  or  squares  before  it  is 
cold. 

Hominy  Spoon  Bread 

Beat  one  egg  light  without  separating,  add  one-half 
cupful  of  milk,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  cup- 
fuls  of  boiled  hominy.  Make  a  smooth  mixture  and 
pour  into  a  baking  dish.  Put  a  few  small  pieces  of  but- 
ter, measuring  one  rounded  teaspoonful  in  all,  over  the 
top  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  twenty  to 
thirty  minutes.  It  should  be  firm  and  of  a  golden  brown 
color  when  done.  Boiled  rice  may  be  used  in  place  of 
hominy  if  desired.  The  bread  should  be  brought  to  the 
table  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  baked,  and  served  with  a 
spoon. 

Buttermilk  Biscuit 

To  one  cupful  of  buttermilk  add  one-half  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  or  shortening,  and  sifted  flour  to  make  a  dough. 
Knead  until  smooth  and  elastic  as  for  light  bread.  Roll 
out  one-half  'inch  thick,  cut  out,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

Buttermilk  Spoon  Biscuit 

One  quart  of  buttermilk,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  soda 
and  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  soft  butter  or  shortening, 


88     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

and  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter.    Drop  in  hot  gem 
pans  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Peanut  Butter  Pinwheels 

Sift,  then  measure  two  cupfuls  of  flour.  Sift  again 
with  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  four  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking  powder.  Work  into  this  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
shortening  and  mix  to  a  dough,  stiff  enough  to  roll,  with 
milk.  About  three-fourths  of  a  cup  will  be  needed. 
Roll  out  lightly  into  a  strip  one-half  inch  thick,  spread 
with  a  very  thin  layer  of  softened  peanut  butter.  Roll 
up  like  a  jelly  roll  and  cut  in  half-inch  slices.  Put  them 
on  a  buttered  cookie  sheet  or  biscuit  tin  so  they  will 
not  touch.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  twenty  minutes. 


One  cupful  of  cream,  two  cupfuls  of  sour  milk  or 
buttermilk,  one-half  cupful  of  sugar,  one  well  beaten  egg, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda. 
Thicken  to  a  stiff  batter  with  one  part  of  white  flour  to 
two  parts  of  rye.  If  sour  cream  is  used,  add  another  half 
teaspoonful  of  soda.  Bake  in  gem  pans  in  a  quick  oven. 

Sour  Cream  Biscuit 

One  cupful  of  sour  cream,  one-half  cupful  of  sour 
milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda,  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough;  about  one  quart. 
Handle  as  little  as  possible,  roll  thin,  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes.  Note:  If  there  is 
any  doubt  about  the  state  of  sourness  of  the  milk  and 


Peanut  Butter  Pinwheels  in  Process  of  Making. 
Rolling  and  Cutting  the  Dough. 


Peanut  Butter  Pinwheels.     Page  88. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  BREAD  89 

cream,  add  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  as  if 
sweet  milk  were  used. 


Brioche  Cakes 

Add  one-fourth  cupful  of  sugar  to  one  cupful  of 
scalded  milk.  When  lukewarm  add  one-third  yeast-cake 
softened  in  warm  water,  then  add  one  and  one-half  cup- 
fuls  of  flour,  and  let  rise.  When  bubbly,  add  two  eggs, 
beaten,  one-fourth  cup  melted  butter,  one-fourth  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  more  flour.  Cover 
and  let  rise  until  light.  Mold  on  a  board  to  horseshoe 
shape  and  let  rise  again.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Sally  Lunns 

Four  cupfuls  of  flour,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  yeast  cake,  two  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  milk, 
and  water.  Crumble  the  yeast  cake  into  a  cup,  put  with 
it  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  and  sugar.  Half  fill  the  cup 
with  lukewarm  water,  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  Sift  into  a  bowl  the  flour,  salt,  and 
sugar,  rub  in  the  butter.  Pour  the  yeast  into  the  center 
of  the  flour,  and  the  eggs  well  beaten,  milk,  and  enough 
lukewarm  water  to  make  a  very  soft  dough.  Mix  and 
beat  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  set  in  a  warm  place  to 
rise  for  one  hour.  Grease  three  round  cake  tins,  place 
the  mixture  equally  in  these.  Stand  in  a  warm  place  till 
risen  to  the  top  of  the  tins.  Brush  over  with  beaten  eggs. 
Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes.  They  should  be 


90     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

lightly  browned  all  over.  Stand  a  minute  before  turning 
out.  They  may  be  buttered  and  eaten  fresh,  but  are 
usually  split  in  three  and  toasted  when  a  day  old. 


Cream  Scones 

Sift  two  cupfuls  of  flour  with  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix 
with  one-fourth  cupful  of  butter,  then  one-half  cupful  of 
cream  with  two  beaten  eggs.  Mix  lightly,  cut  in  tri- 
angles, and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Buckwheat  Cakes 

Pour  a  pint  of  boiling  water  or  milk  on  half  a  cup  of 
fine  cornmeal ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  well, 
and  when  lukewarm  add  half  a  cup  of  white  flour,  one 
cup  of  buckwheat  flour,  one-fourth  cup  of  yeast  or  one 
softened  yeast  cake.  Beat  vigorously.  Let  it  rise  over- 
night. In  the  morning  stir  down  and  beat  again.  When 
risen  and  ready  to  bake,  add  one  saltspoonful  of  soda, 
sifted  through  a  strainer.  Beat  again,  and  fry  in  large 
cakes.  Buckwheat  cakes,  even  if  not  really  sour,  usually 
require  the  addition  of  soda  just  before  baking,  to  make 
them  light  and  tender.  They  should  be  eaten  only  in 
very  cold  weather,  and  but  seldom  even  then.  They  taste 
better  and  brown  better  when  made  with  boiling  milk  in- 
stead of  water. 

Graham  Gems 

One-half  cupful  of  good  syrup  or  brown  sugar,  one 
cupful  of  sour  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one-half 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  BREAD  91 

teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  (melted), 
graham  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Mix  in  the 
order  given,  and  bake  in  hissing-hot  gem-pans. 


Spider  Corn  Cake 

Sift  together  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  cornmeal, 
one-fourth  cupful  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda. 
Beat  one  egg  until  light ;  add  one  cupful  of  sour  milk,  one 
tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  and  combine  with  dry 
ingredients.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  iron  frying-pan. 
Pour  over  the  mixture  one  cupful  of  sweet  milk.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 


92         MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  BREAD 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  BREAD         93 


94         MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  BREAD 


RICE 

By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

ICE  is  a  cereal  which  is  rarely,  if  ever,  used  in 
bread  making.  It  is,  however,  an  important 
article  of  diet,  consisting  largely  of  starch, 
and  furnishing  an  abundant  source  of  heat 
and  energy.  In  order  to  secure  the  best, 
nutritional  rice,  only  unpolished  kernels 
should  be  used.  These,  however,  are  not 
found  very  generally  on  the  market  because  our  people 
seem  to  have  a  passion,  in  cereals  at  least,  for  that  which 
is  pure  white.  Rice  is  often  adulterated,  that  is,  it  is 
coated  with  glucose,  talc,  paraffin,  etc.  The  purpose  of 
treating  rice  in  this  way  is  to  make  it  look  better  and 
thus  appeal  to  the  eye  of  the  purchaser  and  consumer. 
In  doing  this,  however,  it  loses  often  its  right  to  appeal 
to  the  nutrition  of  the  consumer.  The  average  content 
of  protein  in  polished  rice  is  about  seven  per  cent,  while 
the  protein  of  wheat  is  12.25  per  cent.  On  the  other 
hand,  rice  has  nearly  eighty  per  cent,  of  starch,  while 
wheat  has  a  little  over  seventy  per  cent.  Rice,  there- 
fore, is  not  to  be  regarded  as  the  equal  of  the  ordinary 
cereals,  as  a  builder  of  protein  tissues,  but  it  is  superior 
to  them  in  its  power  to  furnish  heat  and  energy,  hence  a 
diet  of  rice  for  a  hard  working  man  is  ideal,  because 
of  the  amount  of  heat  required  to  furnish  the  energy  for 
the  labor.  People  of  sedentary  habits  should  be  careful, 
however,  not  to  eat  too  much  rice. 

95 


96     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

The  unpolished  rice  contains  about  eight  per  cent, 
of  protein,  and  more  than  twice  as  much  fat  and  mineral 
ingredients  as  the  unpolished  kernels.  Recent  inves- 
tigations indicate  that  vitamins,  constituents  which  are 
of  the  greatest  importance,  are  also  lost  when  the  outer 
coating  of  the  rice  is  removed,  and  the  absence  of  these 
and  the  other  ingredients  lost  in  polishing  doubtless 
accounts  for  the  occurrence  of  beri-beri  among  people 
living  exclusively  on  polished  rice,  thus  indicating  the 
value  of  the  materials  removed,  though  the  results,  of 
course,  are  not  so  dire  when  rice  forms  only  a  part  of 
the  menu.  Such  facts  are  of  great  importance,  however, 
in  indicating  the  dangers  and  losses  arising  from  the 
manipulation  of  natural  foods  and  their  over-refinement. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  RICE 


OW  comes  a  time  when  potatoes  are  high  in 
price  and  may  soar  higher;  why  wouldn't  it 
be  a  good  plan  to  use  rice  sometimes  instead 
of  .potatoes — rice  which  is  not  only  a  good 
cereal,  vegetable,  and  dessert,  but  an  unex- 
celled "  left-over  "? 

Rice  is  most  valuable  as  a  starchy  food.  It 
has  more  starch  than  potatoes,  although  it  has  less  tissue 
building  material.  It  has  a  very  slight  mineral  content 
and  practically  no  fat.  In  fact  it  has  less  fat  than  any 
cereal  that  we  use.  It  furnishes  heat  and  energy,  and 
is  well  adapted  as  a  food  for  those  engaged  in  hard 
physical  labor,  or  extreme  exertion.  Rice  is  not  adapted^ 
on  account  of  the  lack  of  proteid  and  fat,  for  a  sole 
article  of  diet,  but  it  is  an  admirable  carrier  for  eggs, 
milk,  and  cheese,  which  impart  to  rice  a  valuable  position 
in  our  dietary.  In  this  way,  strange  to  say,  rice  has  come 
to  be  called  an  exclusive  food  in  some  Oriental  nations, 
where  it  is  used  in  combination  with  condiments  to  stimu- 
late digestion,  and  with  eggs,  tomatoes,  curries,  cheese, 
for  their  added  food  value. 

The  Eastern  rice  has  more  nitrogenous  value  than 
most  of  the  rice  grown  in  America.  The  rice  that  we 
use  in  America  is  often  highly  polished — for  appearance' 
sake — and  is  often  coated  with  talc,  to  render  the  brown- 
ish kernels  white  and  attractive.  The  public  should  de- 
mand either  the  unpolished  rice,  which  has  more  nutri- 
tive-value, or  insist  upon  a  digestible  coating.  This 

97 


98     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

should  not  only  be  a  nutritive  saving  but  a  money  one, 
as  the  polishing  process  is  an  added  cost  to  the  produc- 
tion of  American  rice.  At  present,  however,  unpolished 
rice  is  more  expensive  because  of  the  small  demand  for  it. 

"  It  is  a  disgrace  that  the  most  intelligent  nation  in  the 
world  should  be  so  ignorant  of  the  food  value  of  the 
crops  on  which  more  people  live  than  on  any  other,  that 
they  should  insist  on  having  their  rice  made  as  shiny  as 
polished  glass  beads,  although  in  so  doing  they  are  throw- 
ing away  the  best  part  of  it.  No  rice  eating  people  treat 
their  rice  as  we  do,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  small 
markets  that  have  been  started  for  the  unpolished  rice 
will  lead  to  a  general  propaganda,"  so  said  the  late  Ellen 
H.  Richards,  the  home  economies'  leader. 

Most  of  the  rice  used  and  grown  in  Louisiana  and 
Texas  is  Kiusha, — from  Japan  originally, — a  short  kernel 
which  does  not  break  as  readily  in  the  polishing  process 
as  the  long  grain,  golden  Carolinian  rice.  Buy  the  best 
quality  of  rice  whose  kernels  are  not  mashed  and  broken. 
This  is  the  first  step  in  cooking  rice  successfully.  Al- 
though there  are  numerous  methods  employed,  yet  every- 
one seems  to  agree  that  rice  should  be  dry,  and  each 
kernel  separate  and  distinct.  All  the  Eastern  nations  like 
their  rice  harder  than  we,  even  as  the  Italians  think  that 
we  cook  our  macaroni  until  it  is  too  soft.  Perhaps  the 
rice  eating  people  unconsciously  feel  that  if  their  rice  is 
hard,  they  are  forced  to  masticate  it  more  thoroughly, 
and  thereby  digest  it  more  completely. 

Cook  the  polished  rice  in  the  following  way  in  order 
to  remove  practically  all  the  talc  coating.  Do  not  wash 
first,  but  place  directly  into  plenty  of  rapidly  boiling  salted 
water.  Boil  hard  twenty  minutes,  then  pour  all  through 
a  colander  and  wash  the  rice  in  plenty  of  hot  water. 
When  washed,  place  all  in  the  oven  to  steam  and  dry.  If 


Hulled  Corn  with  Crisp  Bacon  Curls. 
Recipe  on  Page  555. 


A  Chafing  Dish  and  Alcohol  Lamp.     The  Casserole  is  an 
Attractive  Novelty. 


Rice  Steamed  in  One  of  the  Newest  of  Kitchen  Novelties: 
a  Rice  Ball.     Recipe  on  Page  pp. 


Raised  Muffins. 
Recipe  on  Page  84. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  RICE  99 

washed  before  being  cooked,  the  talc  is  not  entirely  re- 
moved as  it  has  a  tendency  to  stick  on.  It  is  not  advis- 
able to  use  the  water  in  which  this  rice  was  boiled  for 
other  cooking.  -  A  rice  ball  is  now  made  in  which  the 
rice  is  placed  raw  and  the  whole  put  into  boiling  water. 
When  cooked,  the  water  is  drained  through  the  perfora- 
tions. This  rice  ball  is  illustrated. 

Rice  increases  from  two  and  a  half  to  five  times  its 
bulk  in  the  cooking  process,  its  swelling  depending  upon 
the  variety  of  the  rice  and  its  age.  The  older  the  rice 
the  more  water  it  will  absorb.  In  boiling  unpolished 
rice  it  must  be  remembered  that  it  should  be  washed 
thoroughly  in  at  least  three  waters,  or  put  in  a  strainer 
and  washed  until  the  water  from  the  rice  is  quite  clear; 
rubbed  briskly  between  the  hands ;  boiled  rapidly,  so  that 
the  kernels  do  not  adhere  to  the  pot  or  to  each  other;  and 
not  stirred,  else  the  rice  will  stick  to  the  bottom  of  the 
pot  and  burn.  Do.  not  cook  rice  with  a  cover  on  the  pot. 

Rice,  like  other  cereals,  must  be  thoroughly  cooked, 
as  it  takes  an  appreciable  length  of  time,  at  least  twenty 
minutes,  to  render  its  starch  content  digestible.  The 
Indian  method,  after  the  rice  is  cooked,  is  to  put  it  in 
the  oven  for  about  five  minutes,  with  the  door  open,  and 
allow  the  moisture  to  evaporate. 

Steaming  is  the  best  method  of  cooking  unpolished 
rice,  as  in  this  way  its  scant  proteid  and  mineral  content 
is  not  lost  in  the  water.  If  this  rice  is  boiled,  the  water 
may  be  used  for  soup  or  sauce,  in  order  to  save  the 
nutritive  elements  which  escaped  in  the  boiling  process. 

Steamed  Rice 

Two  and  three-quarters  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  three- 
quarters  of  a  cupful  of  water,  one-quarter  of  a  teaspoon- 


ioo    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

ful  of  salt.  Put  salt  and  water  in  top  of  double  boiler, 
place  on  range,  and  add  gradually  the  well-washed  rice, 
stirring  with  a  fork.  Boil  three  minutes,  cover,  place 
over  under  part  of  double  boiler,  and  steam  forty-five 
minutes;  uncover,  that  steam  may  escape.  Serve  with 
sugar  and  cream.  Rice  when  used  as  a  dessert  may  be 
cooked  with  half  milk  and  half  water  instead  of  all  water. 


Mexican  Rice 

One-half  cupful  of  rice,  washed  and  drained  well.  Fry 
the  rice  in  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  until  a 
delicate  brown;  add  to  this  one-half  cupful  of  strained 
tomatoes  and  a  little  chopped  onion.  Let  this  cook  for 
two  minutes ;  then  add  one  cupful  of  thin  soup  stock,  salt, 
and  pepper.  Cover  and  let  simmer  until  all  the  water  has 
been  absorbed  (about  three-quarters  of  an  hour).  The 
rice  when  done  will  be  perfectly  soft,  retain  its  shape,  and 
will  be  a  delicate  pink  color. 

Boiled  Rice,  Japanese 

Put  rice  in  a  basin  of  water  and  rub  it  between  the 
hands,  sometimes  using  the  side  of  the  dish  as  if  it  were 
a  washboard,  and  literally  scrubbing  the  rice.  When 
thoroughly  rinsed,  place  in  a  skillet  and  pour  cold  water 
over  it.  The  water  should  stand  two  inches  above  the 
rice.  Then  boil  over  a  moderate  fire.  When  the  water 
is  absorbed  and  the  rice  soft,  put  the  skillet  on  the  back 
of  the  range  (cover  off)  and  let  all  the  moisture  dry  out. 
The  rice  should  be  beautifully  tender,  perfectly  dry,  each 
grain  distinct  and  very  hot.  (Salt  added  to  the  water  in 
which  it  is  boiled  is  more  to  the  Western  taste.) 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  RICE  101 

Persian  "  Piloh  " 

One  cupful  of  rice,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  four  cupfuls  of  boiling  water. 
Soak  rice  an  hour  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover,  or  wash 
it  in  different  waters  until  the  water  no  longer  becomes 
milky.  Drain,  and  cook  in  the  boiling  salted  water  fifteen 
minutes,  until  nearly  soft,  leaving  dish  uncovered.  Turn 
into  a  colander  and  pour  cold  water  over  it  to  separate  the 
kernels.  Melt  the  butter  and  pour  into  a  baking  dish ; 
then  turn  the  butter  out  into  a  cup.  Put  the  rice  into 
the  buttered  bake-dish,  pour  the  melted  butter  over  it, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  one  hour,  leaving  the  dish 
uncovered.  If  rice  be  covered  during  cooking,  the  ker- 
nels are  sticky  and  water-soaked  instead  of  dry  and  flaky. 
If  this  "  Piloh  "  is  to  be  served  with  a  stew,  as  is  cus- 
tomary in  the  Orient,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  for 
baking  is  enough. 

Baked  Rice 

One  cupful  of  rice,  one-half  pound  cheese,  one  cupful 
of  milk,  one-half  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of 
cayenne.  Boil  the  rice  rapidly  twenty  minutes,  wash,  and 
drain.  Grate  the  cheese.  Put  a  layer  of  rice  in  the  bot- 
tom of  a  baking  dish,  then  a  layer  of  cheese,  flavoring 
with  salt  and  cayenne ;  then  alternate  rice  and  cheese 
until  you  have  the  ingredients  used.  Pour  in  the  milk, 
cover  the  pan,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  minutes. 

Vegetarian  Rice 

Boil  the  rice  until  flaky,  wash  it,  then  mold  into  the 
shape  of  a  loaf  of  bread.  Cut  the  loaf  in  half  and  insert 


102    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  push  together  again. 
Grate  strong  cheese  over  the  top  of  the  loaf  and  bake 
in  the  oven  until  the  cheese  -runs  and  glazes  the  top. 
Serve  with  asparagus  tips  in  melted  butter. 

Boiled  Rice — Carolina  Method 

This,  perhaps  the  simplest  and  easiest  of  all  methods, 
is  the  way  rice  is  cooked  by  the  rice  planters  and  rice 
eaters  in  the  coast  country  of  South  Carolina,  where  the 
famous  Carolina  head-rice  is  grown. 

Salt  three  quarts  of  water  and  place  to  boil.  Thor- 
oughly wash  and  drain  one  cup  of  unpolished  rice.  When 
the  water  is  boiling  briskly,  empty  the  rice  into  the  pot  of 
water.  Leave  uncovered  and  keep  the  water  boiling  so 
rapidly  that  all  through  the  pot  the  rice  is  in  constant 
motion.  After  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes  drain  all  the 
water  from  the  rice,  shake  up  in  the  pot  once  or  twice, 
cover,  and  place  on  the  back  of  the  stove,  or  over  a  faint 
flame  to  dry  out,  until  ready  to  serve.  This  should  take 
about  twenty  minutes. 

Hindu  Rice  as  a  Vegetable 

Wash  the  rice  thoroughly,  rubbing  the  grains  between 
the  hands,  and  using  many  waters,  until  all  starchiness 
disappears.  Then  let  the  rice  soak  in  cold  water  for  at 
least  fifteen  minutes — longer  if  possible.  Cut  three  or 
four  large  carrots  in  long,  thin  strips,  as  for  soup,  and 
boil  them  in  one  quart  of  water  until  it  is  reduced  to  a 
pint.  Then  throw  away  the  carrots  and  use  the  water, 
which  will  contain  their  essence,  in  which  to  cook  the 
rice.  Melt  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  'in  a  double  cooker, 


.  JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  RICE  103 

placing  it,  for  the  time  being,  directly  over  the  fire,  let 
the  rice  fry  in  it  for  a  few  minutes  until  it  shows  a 
tendency  to  brown,  stirring  constantly.  Then  add  the 
water  in  which  the  carrots  were  cooked,  and  salt  and 
cayenne  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Place  the  rice  cooker 
in  its  proper  vessel  and  let  it  cook  until  all  the  liquid  is 
absorbed  and  the  rice  is  well  done.  Test  the  rice  by 
pressing  a  grain  of  it  between  the  thumb  and  finger.  If 
it  crushes  readily,  it  is  sufficiently  cooked.  The  essence 
of  any  vegetable  secured  in  the  same  way  as  that  of  the 
carrots  described  in  this  recipe  may  be  used  for  cooking 
rice  as  a  vegetable.  Thus  the  flavor  may  be  constantly 
varied. 

Cream  of  Rice  Soup 

To  one  quart  milk  add  one  cupful  of  cooked  rice  which 
has  been  left  from  a  previous  meal  when  rice, was  served 
as  a  vegetable.  Cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  half  an  hour, 
then  rub  through  a  sieve.  Return  to  the  boiler,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  suspicion  of  cinnamon.  Add  one 
cup  of  top  milk  or  thin  cream,  and  serve  as  soon  as  the 
soup  is  thoroughly  heated.  Be  very  careful  about  the 
cinnamon,  that  it  is  only  a  "  suspicion,"  as  too  much 
spoils  the  flavor  of  the  soup. 


Baked  Rice  and  Sausages 

For  six  persons  use  one  small  teacupful  of  unpolished 
rice,  eight  sausages,  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  pepper.  Wash  the 
rice  in  three  waters,  and  then  put  it  into  a  large  stew- 
pan  with  the  boiling  water.  Boil  with  the  cover  off  the 


104    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

pan  for  twenty-five  minutes,  adding  the  salt  at  the  end 
of  the  first  fifteen  minutes.  When  the  rice  is  cooked, 
drain  in  a  colander.  Sprinkle  lightly  with  pepper,  using 
about  one-third  of  a  teaspoonful,  and  then  spread  in  a 
rather  shallow  dish.  Cut  the  sausages  into  slices  about 
one-third  of  an  inch  thick  and  lay  them  on  the  rice.  Bake 
in  a  rather  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes  and  serve  at  once 
in  the  dish  in  which  the  cooking  is  done. 


Rice  Cups 

Prepare  a  thick  custard  by  boiling  a  cupful  of  washed 
rice  in  slightly  salted  milk ;  cook  until  the  rice  is  dry  and 
tender,  stirring  in  one  well-beaten  egg,  a  scant  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  extract,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream;  beat  until  light  and  pour 
into  shallow  china  cups,  placing  in  the  ice-box  to  be- 
come firm;  when  cold  unmold  and,  with  a  sharp  spoon, 
remove  a  portion  of  the  rice  from  the  center  of  each  cup, 
filling  the  depressions  with  sliced  preserved  peaches  and 
a  little  of  the  syrup ;  cover  the  top  with  powdered  maca- 
roon crumbs,  and  after  arranging  on  a  baking  sheet  run 
into  a  hot  o.ven  for  about  five  minutes :  serve  with  thick 
cream. 

Carrotina  Rice 

Put  one  and  one-quarter  cupfuls  of  the  best  rice 
(picked  but  not  washed)  in  covered  stew-pan  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one-half  of  a  tablespoonful  of 
paprika  (Hungarian  pepper),  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Mix  well.  Place,  covered,  in  hot  oven  for  ten 
minutes,  take  out,  add  a  good-sized  carrot  cut  into  cubes 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  RICE  105 

(dice  shape),  and  six  ctipfuls  chicken  or  mutt6n  broth; 
cook  slowly,  one  or  two  hours,  in  a  double  boiler.  Any 
herbs  put  in  must  be  removed  before  serving. 


East  Indian  Soup 

Having  had  on  the  previous  day  a  curry  of  veal  with 
rice  border,  and  finding  it  difficult  to  serve  any  which  may 
remain,  the  housekeeper  will  find  this  a  very  good  soup 
to  use  up  the  meat  and  rice.  Cover  that  which  remains 
with  cold  water,  adding  one  peeled  and  sliced  sour  apple. 
Simmer  slowly  for  an  hour,  rub  through  a  sieve,  season 
more  if  necessary,  with  salt  and  pepper,  reheat,  and  add, 
at  serving,  one  cupful  of  hot  milk  or  cream,  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley.  Tiny  cubes  of 
the  meat  may  be  reserved,  before  rubbing  through  the 
sieve,  and  added  with  the  cream. 

Cheese  Cream  with  Rice 

Cook  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  add  one  cupful  of  cream,  a  little  salt  and  pepper, 
and  one-half  cupful  of  cold  boiled  rice.  When  boiling 
add  one-third  cupful  of  grated  cheese  and  a  generous 
dusting  of  paprika.  Mustard  may  be  added  if  liked. 
Pour  this  over  entire  wheat  toast,  spread  with  minced 
ham  or  tongue. 

Caramelized  Rice  and  Apple  Pudding 

Caramelize  one  cupful  of  sugar  in  an  agate  saucepan. 
Add  three  cupfuls  of  boiling  water;  simmer  and  stir 
frequently  until  smooth,  then  add  half  a  cupful  of  thor- 


io6    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

oughly  washed  rice.  Boil  for  five  minutes  and  turn  into 
a  pudding-dish  into  which  have  been  sliced  five  -pared 
cooking  apples.  Place  in  a  hot  oven  and  stir  down  fre- 
quently until  the  rice  is  soft.  Bake  five  minutes  longer. 
Serve  cold  with  cream. 


Iced  Compote  of  Rice  and  Quinces 

Put  into  a  double  bojler  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk 
and  a  little  grated  lemon  rind.  Add,  when  this  boils, 
one-half  cupful  of  washed  rice  and  a  saltspoonful  of 
salt;  cook  until  the  rice  is  tender  and  the  milk  nearly 
boiled  away,  then  stir  in  the  stiffly  whipped  white  of  one 
egg,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  one-half  ounce  of  gelatine 
that  has  been  dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water.  Allow  the 
mixture  to  cool,  but  before  it  stiffens  fold  in  half  a  pint 
of  sweetened  whipped  cream  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon 
juice;  pour  immediately  into  a  ring  mold  and  place  in  the 
ice-box  to  become  firm.  Serve  unmolded  with  the  center 
filled  with  preserved  quinces  that  have  been  drained  and 
sliced. 

Frozen  Rice  Pudding 

Boil  in  slightly  salted  milk  until  tender  a  cupful  of 
washed  rice  and  stir  while  hot  into  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
rich  boiled  custard,  flavored  with  vanilla;  allow  the  rice, 
custard  to  become  cold,  and  then  fold  in  half  a  pint  of 
sweetened  whipped  cream,  beaten  solid.  Turn  into  a 
chilled  freezer,  freezing  to  the  consistency  of  soft  snow, 
when  a  large  cupful  of  chopped  preserved  ginger  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  syrup  should  be  added.  Freeze 
until  firm  and  smooth,  and  serve  in  wide-brimmed  sherbet 
glasses  garnished  with  stars  of  whipped  cream. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  RICE  107 

Rice  Croquettes 

Wash  one  cupful  of  rice  through  several  cold  waters 
and  put  in  a  double-boiler  with  one  quart  of  milk.  Cover, 
and  cook  until  all  the  milk  has  been  absorbed — about 
one  hour.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of  onion  juice, 
a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs. 
Mix  well  and  turn  out  to  cool.  When  cold,  form  into 
cylinders ;  dip  these  in  an  egg  beaten  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  warm  water;  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  deep 
hot  fat. 


io8        MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  RICE 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  RICE         109 


i io        MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  RICE 


SOUPS 

By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

OUPS  of  all  kinds  except  those  thickened 
with  vegetables  or  meats  are  to  be  regarded 
rather  as  condiments  than  as  foods.  They 
are  usually  served  in  this  country  merely  as 
an  introduction  to  the  meal,  and  for  this  pur- 
pose they  have  a  value  much  higher  than 
that  due  to  the  nutriment  they  contain.  For 
this  reason,  personally,  I  prefer  what  is  known  as  the 
clear  soups,  whether  of  vegetable  or  animal  origin. 
When  soups  contain  the  whole  of  the  vegetable  as  the 
pea  or  bean  soups,  or  when  they  are  simply  used  as  a 
vehicle  for  carrying  animal  or  vegetable  fats,  they  lose 
their  special  character  as  soups  and  acquire  the  distinc- 
tive character  of  foods.  A  good  plate  of  pea  or  bean  or 
vegetable  soup  or  mulligatawny,  etc.,  when  eaten  with 
bread  or  with  the  addition  of  rice  or  macaroni,  as  is 
done  abroad,  becomes  a  square  meal,  while  a  cup  of  clear 
soup  like  that  extracted  from  the  bones  of  meat  animals, 
from  which  the  oil  is  carefully  removed,  becomes  purely 
condimental.  As  a  rule,  I  think  I  can  safely  say  that  the 
American  people  do  not  recognize  the  true  value  of 
soups.  In  many  families,  soup  is  seldom  served  except 
perhaps  when  company  is  present.  This,  I  think  is  a 
dietetic  mistake.  There  is  scarcely  any  dinner  that  may 
not  be  made  better  by  being  introduced  by  a  palatable 
soup. 

in 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  SOUPS 
Royal  Bouillon 

To  make  three  pints  of  rich  bouillon,  take  two  and  a 
half  pounds  of  lean  beef,  that  has  been  finely  chopped, 
and  cover  with  two  and  a  half  quarts  of  cold  water, 
allowing  it  to  stand  for  one  hour;  then  cover  and  place 
on  a  moderate  fire,  only  just  simmering  for  three  hours; 
remove  any  scum  that  may  arise;  now  add  one  small 
onion,  one  carrot,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  one  bay  leaf,  two 
cloves,  four  peppercorns,  and  two  stalks  of  celery,  all 
cut  into  dice,  and  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  tender. 
Strain  into  an  earthenware  bowl  and  let  cool  without 
covering.  When  ready  to  serve,  remove  any  grease  and 
place  in  a  granite  saucepan  with  the  white  of  one  egg, 
stirring  until  it  boils;  then  strain  again  through  a  fine 
cloth  without  pressing  and  serve  immediately. 

Jellied  Bouillon 

For  jellied  soups  use  well-made  beef  or  chicken  con- 
somme. Add  just  enough  gelatin  to  make  it  jelly  slightly, 
one-half  tablespoonful  to  each  pint.  Place  in  cracked  ice 
till  needed.  Serve  in  bouillon  cups. 

Mushroom  Soup 

Add  one  tablespoonful  of  beef  extract  to  one  quart  of 
water.  Thicken  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stirred 
into  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  Let  simmer, 

113 


ii4    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

stirring;  add  one  can  mushrooms  (cut  in  slices)  with 
their  liquor.  Heat  one  quart  of  cream  in  double  boiler. 
Add  just  before  serving  and  season  to  taste.  This  makes 
enough  for  twelve  people. 

Puree  Jackson 

Cook  three  potatoes  and  three  stalks  of  celery,  cut  in 
slices,  in  one  quart  of  chicken  stock,  until  tender.  Rub 
through  a  sieve.  Scald  one  pint  of  milk  with  a  slice  of 
onion,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  bit  of  bay  leaf ;  strain 
and  add  three  tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  flour, 
rubbed  to  a  paste ;  cook  five  minutes.  Combine  mixtures, 
season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  and  paprika. 

Vegetable  Stock 

The  stock  is  made  by  boiling  a  pint  of  chopped-up  okra 
pods  in  two  quarts  of  water.  Strain  them,  and  set  aside 
for  the  next  day ;  then  bring  to  the  boiling  point,  add  very 
young  carrots,  chopped  fine, — about  half  a  cupful, — 
about  the  same  quantity  of  young  leeks  or  the  tops  of 
green  onions,  cut  into  little  bits ;  half  a  cup  of  green  peas, 
and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Mexican  Delight 

When  making  the  okra  stock,  above,  to  be  used  for 
the  foundation  of  this  soup,  add  a  slice  of  salt  pork  or  fat 
bacon,  and  half  a  dried  herring.  Strain  before  setting 
aside  to  cool.  Next  day,  bring  to  the  boiling  point,  add 
two  sweet  red  and  green  peppers,  chopped  fine;  twelve 
very  small  okra  pods,  cut  into  thin  slices ;  two  thin  green 
onions,  also  sliced ;  half  a  cup  of  small  green  peas.  Boil 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  SOUPS  115 

twenty-five  minutes.  Moisten  a  teaspoonful  of  curry 
powder  with  a  little  cream,  rub  to  a  smooth  paste  and 
add.  Simmer  five  minutes.  Remove  the  shell  from  two 
hard  cooked  eggs,  chop  the  yolks  and  whites  separately, 
and  stir  into  the  soup  just  before  serving:  at  the  same 
time  add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  This  is  always  a 
special  favorite  with  men  folks. 

White  Soup 

White  soup  we  like  for  the  chilly  days  which  come 
occasionally  in  the  early  summer  or  fall.  Put  three  pints 
of  milk  in  a  double  boiler ;  add  two  onions  with  four 
cloves  stuck  in  each;  three  blades  of  mace;  a  little 
lemon  peel,  cut  so  thin  that  it  is  yellow  on  both  sides ;  six 
peppercorns :  bring  to  the  boil,  then  draw  to  one  side 
and  let  it  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Remove  the  condi- 
ments, add  a  half  cup  of  stale  bread,  finely  grated,  and 
a  lump  of  butter;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer 
gently  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

Spanish  Soup 

Chop  three  tablespoonfuls  of  red  and  green  peppers 
and  cook  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  butter  for 
five  minutes.  Add  three  cupfuls  of  stock,  two  cupfuls 
or  a  can  of  tomatoes.  Cover  this  and  allow  it  to  simmer 
for  twenty  minutes;  then  strain  and  add  one-half  of  a 
cupful  of  plain  boiled  macaroni. 

Creole  Soup 

Wash  and  cut  into  slices  one-half  dozen  good-sized 
turnips,  adding  half  a  can  of  tomatoes,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  sweet  red  peppers  (canned),  half  a  teaspoonful 


n6    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

of  allspice,  one  sliced  Bermuda  onion,  a  scant  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  four  whole  cloves,  and  a  large  tablespoonful 
of  butter.  Place  these  ingredients  over  the  fire,  covering 
with  water,  bring  to  the  boiling  point,  and  cook  until  the 
vegetables  are  very  tender;  now  strain  and  keep  hot 
where  it  will  not  boil.  Heat  a  pint  of  rich  milk  in  the 
double  boiler,  thickening  with  a  level  tablespoonful  of 
flour  moistened  with  a  little  cream;  be  sure  that  the 
cream  sauce  boils ;  turn  the  vegetable  puree  inlo  a  heated 
tureen,  stir  in  a  tiny  pinch  of  baking  soda  to  prevent 
curdling,  and  very  gradually  pour  in  the  sauce,  stirring 
constantly.  Serve  immediately. 

Southern  Tomato  Soup 

To  a  plain  tomato  soup  made  without  stock  add  just 
before  serving  two  tablespoonfuls  of  freshly  grated 
horseradish,  one  teaspoonful  of  vinegar  and  one-fourth 
cupful  of  boiled  macaroni,  cut  in  rings. 

Cream  of  Lettuce  Soup 

Remove  the  hearts  from  two  heads  of  lettuce  and 
reserve  for  salad.  Finely  chop  the  outside  leaves  and 
cook  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  ten  minutes.  Add 
one  quart  of  the  liquor  in  which  a  fowl  has  been  cooked, 
one-half  an  onion,  two  cloves,  one-half  tablespoonful  of 
sugar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  few  gratings  of 
nutmeg.  Cook  slowly  one  hour,  and  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  flour,  which  have  been 
rubbed  to  a  paste.  Cook  five  minutes,  add  one  cupful  of 
rich  milk,  let  boil  up  at  once,  season  to  taste,  rub  through 
a  sieve  and  serve  at  once. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  SOUPS  117 

Crab  Soup  a  la  Maryland 

To  one  pint  of  water  add  one  small  finely  chopped 
onion,  one  blade  of  whole  mace,  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
paprika,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  bring  to  the  boil- 
ing point;  then  add  one  pint  of  fresh  milk,  and  one  pint 
of  fresh  crab  meat.  When  the  mixture  boils,  thicken 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  flour.  Cook 
two  minutes,  and  add  one-fourth  cupful  of  butter,  a 
little  at  a  time,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve  unstrained. 

Swedish  Fish  Soup 

Make  a  stock  by  putting  head,  tail,  and  bones  of  any 
white  fish,  such  as  cod,  haddock,  or  pollock,  on  in  cold 
water  to  cover,  adding  a  slice  each  of  onion  and  carrot, 
a  bit  of  bay  leaf,  a  few  peppercorns,  and  cook  slowly  for 
one  hour.  Strain,  thicken  with  butter,  and  flour,  using 
three  tablespoonfuls  each,  to  one  quart  of  stock,  season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  paprika,  and  add  just  before  serving  a 
pint  of  milk,  or  one  cupful  of  milk  and  one  cupful  of 
cream  which  has  been  scalded.  A  few  peas  make  a  pretty 
garnish,  also  finely  chopped  parsley. 

Lentil  and  Tomato  Soup 

Wash  a  quart  of  lentils  and  put  them  into  a  large 
saucepan  with  four  quarts  of  cold  water.  Add  four  small 
onions,  each  stuck  with  two  cloves,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
lemon  juice,  half  the  rind  of  the  lemon,  four  large  sprigs 
of  parsley,  six  or  eight  red  peppers,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt,  and  the  same  quantity  of  granulated  sugar.  Cook 


ii8    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

gently  until  the  lentils  are  very  soft.  Then  add  a  dozen 
small  tomatoes  cut  into  quarters.  .  Boil  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  longer,  or  until  the  whole  is  soft  enough  to  put 
through  a  coarse  sieve.  Strain  into  a  hot  dish  and  add 
some  tiny  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top  of  the  soup.  Crackers 
or  dice-shaped  croutons  should  be  served  with  the  soup. 
German  lentils  will  greatly  increase  the  nourishment  in 
the  soup  and  it  will  also  be  of  a  richer  color. 

Any  kind  of  meat  stock  instead  of  water  may  be  used 
to  boil  the  lentils. 


Mock  Oyster  Soup 

Peel  and  cut  into  cubes  two  small  oyster  plants  and 
cover  with  cold  water,  seasoning  with  a  scant  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  one  bay  leaf,  and  a  cupful  of 
chopped  celery  tops;  cook  until  the  oyster  plant  is  very 
tender,  and  then  press  through  a  puree  sieve.  Reheat  in  a 
granite  saucepan,  pouring  in  two  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk, 
and  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter;  serve  very  hot,  ac- 
companied by  oyster  crackers. 


Puree  of  Tomato 

To  one  can  of  tomatoes  and  one  pint  of  stock  add  a 
small  onion,  chopped,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Cook  ten  minutes  in  a  saucepan,  then 
add  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  cornstarch  moistened 
with  a  little  cold  water,  and  cook  five  minutes  longer. 
Strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  reheat,  add  a  drop  of 
tabasco  and  a  half-cupful  of  good  cream.  This  will  serve 
six  persons. 


One  pint  of  milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  one  head  of  celery,  a  large  slice  of 
onion,  and  a  small  piece  of  mace ;  boil  the  diced  celery  in 
one  pint  of  water  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes ;  heat  mace, 
onion,  and  milk  together ;  mix  flour  with  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  cold  milk,  and  add  to  the  boiling  milk.  Add  but- 
ter, season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  then  add  celery 
and  let  simmer  about  two  minutes ;  then  strain  and  serve 
immediately.  The  flavor  is  improved  by  adding  one  cup- 
ful of  whipped  cream  when  soup  is  in  the  tureen. 

Cream  of  Corn  Soup 

One  can  corn,  one  pint  boiling  water,  one  pint  milk, 
one  slice  onion,  two  tablespoonfuls  butter,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  flour,  one  teaspoonful  salt,  few  grains  pepper, 
one-half  cup  thick  cream.  Chop  the  corn,  add  water,  and 
simmer  twenty  minutes;  rub  through  a  sieve,  scald  milk 
with  onion,  remove  onion,  and  add  milk  to  corn.  Thicken 
with  butter  and  flour  stirred  together.  Heat,  add  salt  and 
pepper,  and  when  very  hot,  just  before  serving,  add  one- 
half  cupful  of  thick  cream. 


120        MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  SOUPS 

./V' 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  SOUPS        121 


122        MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  SOUPS 


EGGS 

By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

HE  value  of  the  egg  as  a  food  product  is  not 
fully  appreciated.  Eggs  are  often  used  be- 
cause they  are  so  conveniently  and  so  easily 
cooked  and  also  because  when  properly  pre- 
pared they  appeal  to  the  appetite.  A  person 
who  eats  an  egg,  however,  should  not  forget 
that  it  contains  very  essential  food  ingredients 
in  an  ideal  condition  for  nutrition.  The  white  of  an 
egg,  though  largely  water,  contains  a  pure  protein,  in 
the  form  known  as  albumen,  which  not  only  is  a  splendid 
protein-tissue  builder,  but  also  lends  itself  easily  to  di- 
gestion. The  yolk  of  the  egg  contains  not  only  protein, 
but  also  almost  an  equal  amount  of  fat.  In  addition  to 
these  valuable  food  products,  it  is  very  rich  in  phosphorus 
and  lime,  two  of  the  elements  so  necessary  to  the  build- 
ing of  the  bones.  The  yolk  also  contains  phosphorus 
in  a  peculiarly  valuable  form,  which  is  known  to  the 
chemist  as  lecithin. 

While  of  late  the  egg  has  not  been  an  economic  diet, 
it  continues  to  be  one  of  the  most  valuable  armaments 
of  the  table.  The  various  attractive  forms  in  which  eggs 
can  be  served,  therefore,  appeal  particularly  to  the  con- 
sumer from  the  nutritional  point  of  view. 


123 


JUST  HOW  TO  PRESERVE  EGGS 


HEN   eggs   are   their   cheapest   and   best,    in 
May  or  early  June,  and  before  the  really  hot 
weather  has  come,  the  wise  householder  will 
put  away,  in  water  glass,  a  liberal  quantity. 
If  possible,  "  put  down  "  enough  to  carry  the 
family     through     the     months     when     eggs 
"  soar."     If   carefully  packed,   and   if   there 
are  not  more  than  three  or  four  dozen  in  a  crock,  and 
again  if  they  are  kept  covered  with  the  water  glass,  they 
will  keep  well. 

The  present  writer  is  now  using  the  first  of  a  hundred 
dozen  thus  stored,  and  finds  them  good,  not  only  for 
cooking,  but  for  omelets  and  scrambled  eggs.  These 
particular  eggs  cost,  including  water  glass,  twenty-two 
cents  a  dozen. 

Thus  it  seems  only  necessary  for  us  as  housekeepers  to 
look  ahead  a  bit,  and  there  would  be  less  need  of  "  egg- 
less  "  cookery.  The  nourishment  to  be  obtained  from 
eggs  is  so  desirable,  that  it  is  a  pity  to  be  under  the 
necessity  of  economizing  in  eggs. 

Repeated  tests  at  the  various  state  experiment  stations 
have  demonstrated  that  eggs  properly  packed  in  water 
glass  after  three  and  one-half  months  still  appeared  to 
be  perfectly  fresh.  For  in  most  packed  eggs  the  yolk 
settles  to  one  side  (a  sure  test  of  an  egg  not  fresh  laid), 
but  when  packed  in  water  glass,  the  yolks  remained  in 
their  original  position  as  when  fresh ;  they  lost  no  weight  ; 
they  would  "  beat  up  well  "  for  cakes  or  f rostings ;  and 

125 


126    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

would  keep  four  weeks  after  removal  from  the  preserva- 
tive solution.  In  other  words,  water  glass  adds  no  flavor 
to  the  eggs,  and  takes  away  no  flavor  from  them.- 

Dr.  Wiley  is  authority  for  the  statement  that  the  shell 
of  an  egg  preserved  in  water  glass  is  apt  to  burst  in  boil- 
ing water.  The  trouble  may  be  avoided  by  pricking  the 
shell  carefully  with  a  needle. 

When  eggs  are  cooked  in  water  below  boiling,  I  have 
experienced  no  trouble  with  their  breaking. 

Water  glass  or  soluble  glass  is  the  popular,  name  for 
potassium  and  sodium  silicates.  Commercial  water  glass, 
often  a  mixture  of  both  silicates,  is  much  cheaper  than 
the  chemically  pure  article,  and  is  just  as  efficient  for 
preserving  eggs.  It  is  sold  in  two  forms,  a  sirup  thick  as 
molasses,  and  a  powder. 

The  cost  varies.  Water  glass  sometimes  sells  as  low 
as  a  cent  and  three-quarters  a  pound  in  large  quantities. 
The  retail  price  is  commonly  ten  cents  a  pound.  Some 
of  the  water  glass  is  extremely  alkaline  in  reaction.  Eggs 
preserved  :n  such  water  glass  will  not  keep  well,  so  pur- 
chase as  nearly  neutral  water  glass  as  possible.  However, 
it  is  perfectly  safe  to  use  the  ordinary  commercial  water 
glass,  provided  the  dealer  understands  for  what  purpose 
it  is  purchased.  It  is  true  that  lime  water  may  be  cheaper 
and  just  as  effective  as  a  preservative,  but  the  water  glass 
is  far  preferable  from  the  standpoint  of  flavor. 

To  Preserve  Eggs  in  Water  Glass 

If  the  following  directions  are  carefully  observed, 
fresh  eggs  may  be  eaten  during  the  winter  months  at 
approximately  June  prices : 

Use  clean  receptacles  of  glass,  earthenware,  wood  or 
of  most  any  material,  if  same  is  paraffined  inside,  and  can 


JUST  HOW  TO  PRESERVE  EGGS         127 

be  sealed  hermetically.  I  found  one-half  gallon  screw- 
cap  glass  jars,  which  will  hold  fourteen  or  fifteen  eggs, 
most  satisfactory;  and  in  every  way  advisable. 

Common  silicate  of  soda  or  water  glass,  a  sirup  thick 
liquid,  gives  good  results.  It  should  be  kept  well  sealed 
by  paraffined  or  vaselined  paper,  pasteboard  or  cork 
stopper,  or  other  cover  impermeable  to  air  and  moisture, 
to  prevent  it  from  hardening.  Glass  stoppered  bottles, 
however,  should  not  be  used,  as  a  little  silicate  may  find 
its  way  to  the  ground  neck,  and  it  will  be  impossible  to 
remove  the  stopper,  later  on,  as  silicate  of  soda  will 
cement  the  stopper  to  the  neck  of  the  bottle. 

The  water  should  be  pure,  boiled  water  being  prefer- 
able. 

One  part  of  silicate  of  soda  should  be  very  thoroughly 
mixed  with  ten  parts  of  water. 

The  eggs  must  be  clean,  with  strong,  sound  shells,  but 
they  should  not  be  washed,  as  this  removes  some  of  the 
natural  mucilaginous  coating.  They  should-  be  put  into 
the  preserving  fluid,  if  possible,  the  same  day  they  are 
laid,  especially  in  summer,  but  this  is  not  imperative. 
Unfertilized  eggs  are  not  likely  to  spoil,  even  if  they  are 
not  so  fresh.  However,  it  is  one  of  the  strongest  points 
of  this  preserving  method  that  fertilized  eggs  will  keep 
perfectly  well,  if  the  above  precautions  are  taken.  (In- 
cubation is  said  to  start  on  fresh,  fertile  eggs,  if  they  are 
kept  for  about  twenty-four  hours  at  a  temperature  of  at 
least  80  degrees  F.,  but  if  the  proper  incubating  tem- 
perature— about  102.5  degrees  F. — is  not  reached  soon 
and  maintained,  the  egg  germs  will  die  and  cause  the 
eggs  to  decay.)  Hence  the  necessity  for  immediate  im- 
mersion in  the  case  of  fertilized  eggs. 

As  soon  as  the  eggs  are  packed  in  the  preserving 
liquid,  the  receptacle  should  be  carefully  sealed  with  a 


128    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

paraffined  or  vaselined  paper  or  pasteboard,  or  with  a 
screw  cap  or  other  reliable  and  tight  cover.  This  is 
necessary  not  only  to  prevent  water  from  volatilizing, 
which  would  finally  expose  the  upper  eggs  to  the  atmos- 
phere, but  also  to  prevent  the  carbonic  acid  of  the  air 
from  decomposing  the  silicate. 

The  eggs  packed  in  well-sealed  jars  should  be  stored  in 
a  cool  place,  especially  at  first,  that  is,  before  the  egg  germs 
have  lost  their  vitality.  However,  the  temperature  must 
not  drop  below  the  freezing  point. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  EGGS 

HY  is  it  I  can  never  get  an  egg  cooked  to  suit 
me  in  my  own  house  ?  "  asks  many  a  man. 

Because,  oftentimes,  the  egg  is  put  into  cold 
water,  and  the  time  is  then  noted,  but  even 
when  the  egg  has  been  in  the  water  the  re- 
quested number  of  minutes,  it  has  not  been 
cooked  at  a  sufficiently  high  temperature  for 
a  sufficiently  long  period.  The  difficulty  is  to  obtain 
uniform  results,  many  factors  affect  the  result:  the  size 
and  age  of  the  egg,  the  size  and  kind  of  utensil  and  its 
position  on  the  stove,  the  temperature  of  the  egg  (an 
egg  from  a  refrigerator  takes,  of  course,  longer  to  react 
to  heat)  and  the  amount  of  water.  The  table-cooked 
egg  is  probably  the  surest,  in  obtaining  uniformly  cooked 
eggs. 

Taking  all  these  possible  conditions  into  account,  the 
best  way  to  cook  or  "  boil  "  an  egg  is  not  to  boil,  but  to 
cook  it  below  the  boiling  point,  say  at  about  180  to  190 
degrees,  F.,  because  the  egg  albumen  is  toughened  and 
rendered  leathery  and  indigestible  when  submitted  to 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  EGGS  129 

the  boiling  point  of  212  degrees,  but  remains  jelly-like, 
though  firm,  at  the  lower  range  of  heat.  Soft  cooked 
eggs  should  be  cooked, below  boiling  point.  Following 
is  a  test  made  in  the  laboratory  of  the  University  of 
Illinois : 

"  Using  a  granite-ware  stewpan  of  one-quart  capacity, 
one  pint  of  water  was  heated  over  a  gas  flame ;  when  the 
water  boiled  the  gas  was  turned  off,  and  an  egg,  which 
had  been  kept  in  a  refrigerator,  was  dropped  into  the 
water.  Without  disturbing  the  vessel,  it  was  covered 
closely  and  the  egg  allowed  to  remain  in  the  water  six 
minutes."  It  was  then  cooked  soft.  When  the  egg  was 
dropped  into  the  water  the  temperature  fell  immediately 
to  185  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  then  slowly  to' 170  de- 
grees. If  the  egg  remained  in  the  water  eight  minutes 
it  was  medium-cooked,  the  temperature  of  the  water  at 
the  end  of  the  period  having  fallen  to  162  degrees. 

Hard-"  boiled  "  eggs  should  be  cooked  for  forty-five 
to  sixty  minutes  at  180  to  190  degrees,  or  they  will  be 
tough  and  not  mealy.  If  cooked  below  boiling  point  they 
will  be  more  easily  digested.  Should  the  shell  crack, 
pierce  several  small  holes  with  a  pin  to  keep  contents 
from  flowing  out. 

Good  results  with  soft  cooked  eggs  can  be  obtained 
if  attention  is  given  to  details,  and  if  the  cook  will  only 
remember  the  experience  gained  the  last  time  she  cooked 
an  egg  in  the  same  way.  It  is  a  safe  rule,  if  one  does 
not  have  a  thermometer,  to  keep  the  water  below  boiling 
point.  A  double  boiler  is  a  splendid  device  for  just  this 
process,  as  the  water  may  boil  below,  while  above  it  can 
be  kept  below  the  boiling  point.  It  is  best,  however,  not 
to  let  the  water  boil  even  in  the  lower  saucepan. 

In  preparing  for  an  egg  dish  of  any  sort,  first  break 
the  egg  by  a  swift  stroke  of  a  knife  into  a  dish  that  is 


130    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

not  to  be  used  for  the  mixing.  Then  if  by  mischance 
the  egg  is  not  up  to  the  mark,  it  can  be  discarded  and 
will  not  spoil  the  rest  of  the  mixture. 

For  poached  eggs,  have  the  water  a  little  below  212 
degrees,  by  pouring  boiling  water  from  a  saucepan  into 
the  shallow  pan,  which  has  been  brushed  over  with  oil 
or  butter.  Break  the  egg  carefully  into  a  cup  and  slip 
gently  into  the  water,  thinking  all  the  time  of  having  it 
float,  so  lightly  must  it  be  transferred.  The  egg  quickly 
reduces  the  temperature  to  185  degrees,  which  is  correct 
for  poaching  an  egg.  The  top  of  the  yolk  should  be 
kept  slightly  emerging  from  the  water.  Let  the  egg  cook 
gently.  Spread  some  water  over  the  egg  with  a  spoon 
and  when  a  film  has  formed  over  the  yolk  and  when  the 
white  is  firm,  lift  each  out  with  a  skimmer,  drain,  smooth 
the  edges  with  a  knife,  if  necessary,  and  place  on  hot 
toast,  which  has  been  prepared  beforehand.  If  the  eggs 
are  fresh  and  cooked  correctly,  they  will  not  need  trim- 
ming. Put  a  piece  of  butter,  some  pepper  and  salt  on  the 
egg,  and  serve  hot  on  very  hot  plates. 

When  properly  poached  the  egg  is  jelly-like  throughout 
and  the  yolk  is  covered  with  a  white  film.  Egg  poachers 
and  muffin  rings  are  often  used  for  poaching  eggs.  Salt 
and  vinegar  are  oftentimes  put  into  the  water  to  prevent 
the  soluble  albumen  from  being  dissolved.  This  also  adds 
flavor  to  the  eggs.  Half  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar  for 
six  eggs  will  be  sufficient.  Poaching  eggs  is  no  easy 
matter.  Even  a  hotel  chef  will  admit  this;  but  a  little 
care  will  bring  good  results. 

The  varieties  of  poached  and  boiled  eggs  reach  the 
hundreds.  The  eggs  are  cooked  with  cream,  sauces, 
anchovies,  and  combined  with  truffles,  mushrooms,  cheese, 
sausages,  etc.,  etc.  The  following  recipes  are  variations 
of  the  "boiled"  and  poached  egg: 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  EGGS  131 

Deviled  Eggs  a  la  Fromage 

Cut  the  desired  number  of  hard-boiled  eggs  into  halves, 
taking  out  the  yolks  and  leaving  cup-shaped  pieces. 
Mash  the  yolks  to  a  paste,  adding  an  equal  quantity  of 
rich  cream  cheese,  a  saltspoonful  of  paprika,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  little  minced  parsley,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream;  fill  into  the  halves  and  arrange  on 
a  bed  of  crisp  lettuce  leaves,  garnished  with  stuffed 
olives. 

A  New  Deviled  Egg 

Six  hard-cooked  eggs,  one  lemon,  one  box  of  sardines, 
melted  butter.  Take  the  yolks  out  of  the  eggs,  after 
cutting  in  half  mix  with  the  sardines,  season  with  salt, 
paprika,  and  lemon.  Add  melted  butter  and  put  back  in 
the  white  of  the  egg,  which  is  used  as  a  mold. 

Egg  Plums 

Dip  some  hard-boiled  eggs  for  two  days  in  grape  juice, 
to  color  them ;  then  stick  a  twig  of  plum  leaves  in  one 
end  of  each.  By  the  use  of  artificial  leaves,  one  may 
serve  "  egg  plums  "  at  any  season  of  the  year.  Serve 
cold  as  an  hors  d'ceuvre. 

Eggs  Bollerino 

Poach  eggs,  and  make  a  cream  sauce.  Chop  six  or 
eight  mushrooms,  add  to  the  cream  sauce  and  place  a 
small  sausage,  cooked  and  split  in  half,  on  the  toast  be- 
fore placing  the  egg  upon  the  round. 


132          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Poached  Eggs  with  Creamed  Celery 

Arrange  poached  eggs  in  a  circle  on  rounds  of  hot  but- 
tered toast;  fill  in  the  center  of  the  circle  with  two  cup- 
fuls  of  celery,  cut  into  inch  lengths  and  cooked  in  boil- 
ing water  until  tender  (about  two  hours),  then  stir  it  into 
one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  cream  sauce.  In  making  the 
sauce  use  the  water  in  which  the  celery  was  cooked  for 
one  half,  and  the  other  half  cream. 

Ham  and  Spanish  Eggs 

Serve  poached  eggs  on  thin  slices  of  broiled  or  fried 
ham.  When  served  on  hot,  highly  seasoned  steamed  rice, 
they  are  called  Spanish  eggs. 

Eggs  Poached  in  Tomatoes 

Stew  slowly  for  ten  minutes  half  a  can  of  tomatoes 
and  one  small  onion,  cut  fine.  Season  highly  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  butter.  Break  six  eggs  into  a  bowl  with- 
out beating,  and  when  everything  else  is  ready  to  serve, 
slip  them  into  the  hot  tomatoes.  Lift  the  white  care- 
fully with  a  fork,  as  it  cooks,  until  it  is  all  firm;  then 
prick  the  yolks  and  let  them  mix  with  the  tomato  and 
white.  The  mixture  should  be  quite  soft,  but  with  the 
red  tomatoes,  the  white  and  yellow  of  the  egg,  quite  dis- 
tinct. Serve  at  once  on  toast. 

Hamburg  Eggs 

Cream  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  soft  bread  crumbs,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley,  seasoning  to  taste  with  salt,  paprika,  and  celery 
salt.  Work  all  to  a  smooth  paste,  and  with  it  line  small 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  EGGS  133 

individual  patty  pans  that  have  been  brushed  with  melted 
butter ;  break  an  egg  carefully  into  each,  and,  after  dust- 
ing lightly  with  salt,  cover  with  a  mixture  of  melted 
butter  and  browned  bread  crumbs,  cooking  for  six  min- 
utes in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  in  the  pans  garnished  with 
parsley. 

Whole  Eggs  with  Smoked  Beef 

Hard  cook  six  eggs,  let  them  stand  in  cold  water  until 
cold,  and  then  carefully  remove  the  shells.  Heat  three 
cupfuls  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler.  Mix  one  egg  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  flour  and  an  equal  amount  of  water 
until  smooth.  Pour  a  little  of  the  hot  milk  into  it  and 
stir  quickly,  then  stir  the  whole  into  the  remainder  of  the 
hot  milk  for  a  minute.  Add  a  dash  of  pepper  and  set 
the  saucepan  on  the  back  of  the  stove.  Season  to  taste 
with  salt,  add  the  whole  eggs  and  about  a  third  of  a 
half-pound  jar  of  smoked  beef  to  the  sauce.  Heat 
through  but  do  not  let  mixture  boil  after  salt  is  added. 

Eggs  and  Cheese  Cream 

Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  add  two  of  grated 
cheese  and  one  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley  or  chervil. 
When  cheese  is  melted  add  four  eggs,  well  beaten,  a  little 
salt  and  paprika,  a  dash  of  nutmeg,  and  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  French  mustard.  Dust  with  paprika  and 
serve  on  toast. 

Poached  Eggs  in  Milk  or  Cream 

Butter  an  egg  poacher  and  half  fill  the  pan  beneath 
with  boiling  water.  Break  in  the  required  number  of 


134    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

eggs,  and  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  grow  firm,  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  milk  or  cream.  When  firm,  place  upon 
rounds  of  buttered  toast  and  season  with  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

Scrambled  Eggs,  Crisfield 

Take  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  flaked  crab  meat,  warm 
it  in  cream,  beat  four  fresh  eggs  in  a  bowl,  season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  in  a  buttered  omelet 
pan,  then  throw  in  crab  flakes  and  cream  and  scramble 
while  cooking.  This  is  sufficient  for  two. 

Scotch  Eggs 

Divide  one  cupful  of  sausage  meat  (one-half  pound) 
into  four  equal  portions.  Remove  four  hard  cooked 
eggs  from  their  shells  and  cover  them  with  the  sausage 
meat.  Roll  in  beaten  egg  and  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  a 
golden  brown  in  hot  deep  fat.  Cut  the  eggs  through 
the  center  and  serve  on  rings  of  toast.  This  quantity 
will  serve  four. 

Bread,  Eggs,  and  Bacon  in  Chafing  Dish 

Cut  fresh  white  or  entire  wheat  bread  into  half-inch 
slices,  remove  crust,  and  cut  in  half-inch  cubes.  Put 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  the  chafing  dish,  add  three 
cupfuls  of  the  bread,  and  toss  it  in  the  butter  until  it 
has  absorbed  the  butter  and  is  slightly  colored.  Add  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  bacon  fat  and  a  dusting  of  salt  and 
pepper.  Toss  again,  and  when  the  fat  is  absorbed  add 
three  well-beaten  eggs,  and  as  soon  as  they  are  slightly 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  EGGS  135 

cooked  serve,  surrounded  with  bacon,  which  has  baked 
or  delicately  sauted.    This  breakfast  dish  will  serve  four. 


Eggs  au  Gratin 

Remove  shells  from  five  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  cut  into 
small  pieces.  Make  a  thick  and  richly  seasoned  milk 
gravy,  and  fold  in  the  eggs.  Fill  six  green  pepper  shells 
with  this,  sprinkle  grated  cheese  and  bits  of  butter  on 
tops,  and  brown  in  oven.  Serve  on  chop  plate,  and  gar- 
nish with  watercress  or  parsley.  Eat  hot, — with  toast 
sticks,  made  of  bread  cut  into  long  strips,  which  have 
been  browned  in  deep  fat,  seasoned,  and  drained,  but 
kept  hot. 

Baked  Eggs  with  Cheese 

Butter  a  baking  platter  and  cover  it  with  a  layer  of 
grated  cheese ;  break  six  eggs  upon  it,  cover  with  a  layer 
of  cheese  and  dust  with  salt,  pepper,  and  paprika.  Pour 
over  it  half  a  cupful  of  cream,  cover  with  soft  bread 
crumbs,  rolled  in  melted  butter,  then  dust  with  salt, 
paprika,  and  a  light  sprinkling  of  mustard.  Bake  until 
cheese  is  melted. 

Piquant  Scrambled  Eggs 

Cut  two  stalks  of  celery  into  small  pieces,  add  a  slice 
of  chopped  onion,  and  cook  in  boiling  salted  water  until 
tender;  drain,  dredge  lightly  with  flour,  and  saute  in 
butter  until  brown.  Beat  four  eggs,  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  few  grains 
of  paprika,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley ;  pour 


136    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

into  the  pan  containing  the  celery  and  cook,  stirring  con- 
stantly, until  the  whole  is  a  light,  creamy  mass.  Serve  on 
triangles  of  hot  toast,  garnishing  with  watercress  and  a 
few  grilled  sardines,  if  liked. 

Belmont  Eggs 

Brown  some  slices  of  bread  in  the  oven.  Do  not  toast 
them  but  lay  them  in  a  rather  hot  oven  till  slightly  brown. 
Moisten  in  warm  salted  milk  and  butter  them.  Break 
eggs  carefully  one  at  a  time  into  a  cup  and  slip  into 
simmering  salted  water  one  inch  deep  in  a  saucepan. 
Toss  the  water  over  the  yolks  till  a  delicate  pink.  Slip 
on  to  the  toast,  one  to  a  slice,  and  surround  with  chopped 
meat  heated  in  butter. 


Eggs  a  la  Golden  Rod 

Cook  four  eggs  for  forty-five  minutes,  and  when  they 
are  cold  shell  and  dice  them;  meanwhile  prepare  a  rich 
cream  sauce  by  adding  to  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls 
of  melted  butter  the  same  quantity  of  flour,  when  thor- 
oughly blended  add  two  cupfuls  of  hot  milk;  as  soon  as 
the  sauce  boils  season  it  highly  with  salt  and  paprika, 
adding  the  eggs  and  a  heaping  cupful  of  grated  cheese; 
cook  only  until  the  cheese  is  melted  and  serve  on  rounds 
of  hot  buttered  toast. 

An  English  Egg 

Select  a  small,  firm  tomato.  Cut  out  the  stem  end  and 
scoop  out  the  seeds  and  soft  center.  Sprinkle  with  salt 
and  turn  upside  down  to  drain.  Then  sprinkle  with 
pepper  and  finely  chopped  parsley.  Break  a  raw  egg  into 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  EGGS  137 

the  tomato  and  add  salt  and  pepper.  Arrange  the  pre- 
pared tomatoes  (not  too  close  together)  in  a  buttered 
pan  and  place  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes. 


Cheese  Timbales 

Beat  four  eggs  slightly,  add  one  cupful  of  milk,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  teaspoonful  pepper, 
ten  drops  onion  juice,  and  one-half  cupful  of  grated 
cheese.  Pour  into  buttered  cups  or  timbale  molds,  set 
molds  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  bake  until  firm.  They 
may  be  tested  as  any  baked  custard,  by  putting  the  point 
of  a  knife  into  the  center  of  the  custard.  If  it  comes 
out  with  no  custard  clinging  to  it,  the  timbale  is  done. 
Remove  from  mold  to  a  hot  platter,  and  serve  with  a 
cream  of  tomato  sauce. 

Cereal  Omelet 

To  one  cupful  of  any  cold  cooked  cereal  add  two  well- 
beaten  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  few  grains  of 
paprika,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Melt 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  an  omelet  pan,  turn  in 
the  mixture,  and  cook  with  moderate  heat  until  firm. 
Fold,  turn  out  upon  a  hot  platter,  and  garnish  with 
bacon. 

Rice  Omelet 

One  cupful  of  cold  boiled  rice,  one  cupful  of  warm 
milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  one  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
three  well-beaten  eggs.  Melt  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 


138    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

in  a  hot  frying-pan,  and  pour  in  the  mixture.     Bake  in 
a  hot  oven ;  fold  over  once,  and  serve  on  a  hot  platter. 


Cheese  Custard 

Cut  bread  into  slices  one  inch  thick;  remove  crusts, 
and  cut  into  cubes.  Butter  a  baking  dish,  and  put  in  a 
layer  of  bread  cubes,  then  a  layer  of  grated  cheese ;  pro- 
ceed until  two  cupfuls  of  cheese  have  been  used.  Mix 
together  one  beaten  egg,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  teaspoonful  of  paprika,  and  one  and  one-half  cup- 
fuls of  milk.  Pour  over  cheese,  and  bake  until  nicely 
browned.  Serve  at  once. 

Omelet  Lattard 

One  cupful  of  eggplant  cut  in  dice,  one  cupful  of 
bacon  cut  in  dice,  one-half  cupful  of  apple  cut  in  dice. 
First  place  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  pan.  When  melted 
add  the  bacon,  the  eggplant,  and  then  the  apple  in 
succession,  so  that  they  will  all  be  cooked  tender  at  the 
same  time.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  done, 
take  them  out  of  the  pan  with  a  perforated  spoon  or 
skimmer,  so  as  to  leave  the  butter  in  the  pan. 

In  the  meanwhile  beat  the  five  fresh  eggs,  adding  a 
tablespoonful  of  cold  water  (not  milk  or  cream)  and 
seasoning  to  taste.  Proceed  to  make  the  omelet  in  the 
pan  containing  the  stock  in  which  the  above  ingredients 
were  cooked. 

As  soon  as  the  eggs  begin  to  harden,  throw  in  the 
garniture  of  eggplant,  bacon,  and  apple.  When  the 
omelet  comes  to  a  satisfactory  turn,  fold,  dish  out,  and 
serve,  adding  over  it  a  little  of  the  residue  in  the  pan,  if 
there  be  any. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  EGGS  139 

Potato  Omelet 

Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  very  light.  Season  one 
cupful  of  mashed  potatoes  with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
one-half  cupful  of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sifted  flour, 
a  little  chopped  parsley,  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  little 
lemon  juice,  if  liked.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  into 
this,  then  the  well  beaten  whites.  Heat  an  omelet-pan, 
butter,  and  when  piping  hot,  pour  the  potato  omelet  into 
it.  Brown  lightly,  turn,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Spinach  Omelet 

Make  a  French  omelet,  using  four  eggs,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
pepper.  Have  the  omelet  pan  hot,  put  into  it  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  and  turn  in  the  egg  mixture.  As  the 
egg  sets,  lift  with  a  knife,  never  allowing  it  to  become 
hard.  When  nearly  all  the  egg  is  firm,  begin  to  fold  the 
omelet;  turn  onto  a  bed  of  spinach,  and  serve  at  once. 
Any  left-over  spinach  may  be  reheated  with  cream  and 
butter  and  be  used  for  this  omelet. 

Bacon  and  Potato  Omelet 

Cut  three  slices  bacon  in  tiny  dice  and  fry  until  crisp. 
Add  to  fat  and  bacon  dice  two  cold  boiled  potatoes,  cut  in 
small  cubes,  and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Beat 
two  eggs  slightly,  pour  them  over  the  bacon  and  potatoes. 
Cook  until  the  eggs  are  set,  then  fold  like  an  omelet. 

Eggs  in  Baked  Potatoes 

Scrub  and  bake  six  large  potatoes.  When  quite  done, 
prick  to  let  out  the  steam,  then  cut  off  the  tops  length- 


140    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

wise  of  the  potatoes.  Remove  the  potato,  mash,  and 
season.  Use  plenty  of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  or  more 
of  butter,  salt,  paprika,  and  a  grating  of  nutmeg.  Half 
fill  the  potato  shells  with  the  mixture  and  arrange  in  a 
baking  pan.  Break  six  eggs,  and  slip  one  into  each  potato 
case.  Cover  with  grated  cheese  and  buttered  seasoned 
crumbs  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  brown  and 
the  eggs  are  set. 

Ripe  Olive  Omelet 

Beat  four  eggs  slightly,  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  milk, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  teaspoon ful 
of  pepper.  Heat  three  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil  in  an 
omelet-pan,  add  the  egg,  and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  set, 
lift,  letting  the  uncooked  mixture  run  to  the  bottom  of 
the  pan.  Continue  until  the  egg  is  set  but  creamy  in 
appearance.  Add  one-half  cupful  of  ripe  olives,  cut  in 
strips;  fold  the  omelet,  and  serve  with  or  without  a 
sauce.  For  a  luncheon  dish,  however,  the  following  sauce 
is  good : 

Ripe  Olive  Sauce 

Brown  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter;  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  continue  the  browning.  Then 
add  one  cupful  of  brown  stock,  or  one  cupful  of  boiling 
water  and  one  teaspoonful  of  meat  extract,  and  cook 
until  thickened.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  paprika, 
and  add  one-fourth  cupful  of  ripe  olives  (cut  into  small 
strips),  and  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  red  and 
green  peppers. 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  EGGS        141 


142         MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  EGGS 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  EGGS        143 


144        MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  EGGS 


FISH 


By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

OMMONLY,  we  discriminate  in  our  ideas  of 
animal  products  between  fish,  fowl,  and  flesh. 
From  a  nutritional  point  of  view,  there  is, 
however,  little  difference  between  them. 
They  all  are  composed  essentially  of  two 
principal  ingredients,  namely,  protein,  which 
is  the  ideal  tissue  builder,  and  fat,  which  is 
the  ideal  source  of  heat  and  energy.  But  although  from 
a  chemical  point  of  view  they  are  of  about  equal  value 
nutritionally,  they  appeal  in  quite  a  different  way  to  the 
taste  of  the  consumer.  Fish,  as  a  continued  diet,  would 
soon  pall  upon  the  appetite.  It,  therefore,  should  not 
be  used  at  every  dinner.  This  statement  may  be  modi- 
fied, however,  when  we  include  with  fish  the  shellfish, 
such  as  the  oyster,  the  crab,  the  clam,  and  the  lobster. 
By  reason  of  the  different  properties  of  these  foods,  it 
is  entirely  possible  to  serve  one  of  them  every  day  at 
some  one  of  the  meals  without  overstepping  the  bounds 
of  gustatory  propriety.  -  As  foods,  fish  are  quite  the 
equal,  weight  for  weight,  with  meats,  with  the  exception, 
of  course,  of  the  oyster  and  the  clam,  which  contain  a 
great  deal  more  moisture  than  the  ordinary  fish,  the 
crab,  or  the  lobster.  From  a  nutritional  point  of  view, 
fish  is  an  unbalanced  diet;  that  is,  it  consists  largely  of 
protein.  It  is,  therefore,  proper  to  eat  with  fish  a  highly 
starchy  adjuvant,  such  as  rice,  potatoes,  or  bread.  I  do 


146    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

not  mean  by  this  that  these  should  necessarily  be  a  part 
of  the  fish  course.  In  my  opinion,  the  best  way  to  eat 
fish  is  to  eat  nothing  with  it  but  the  sauce,  and  very 
little  of  that.  The  vegetables  and  other  adjuvants  of 
the  meal  are  best  served  separately.  One  important 
thing  about  a  fish  diet  is  that  there  are  many  varieties, 
such  as  the  herring  and  the  cod  and  the  salmon,  which 
occur  in  such  large  quantities  as  to  render  them  relatively 
cheap  sources  of  protein.  It  is  true  that  fish  are  often 
sold  at  a  high  price  through  the  manipulations  of  the 
market  at  or  near  the  source  of  supply,  but  they  are  the 
cheapest  form  of  animal  food  available.  Fish,  when 
fresh,  should  be  distinctly  fresh,  and  when  cured  should 
be  well  cured.  The  intermediate  conditions  are  danger- 
ous. Those  who  live  near  the  source  of  supply  can  well 
afford,  economically  and  dietetically,  to  increase  their 
rations  of  fish,  and  all  could  .profitably  increase  the 
amounts  of  dried  fish  used.  Dried  herring,  salmon, 
haddock,  and  cod,  offer  a  most  palatable  and  economic 
method  of  increasing  the  proteins  in  the  ration,  a  lesson 
that  our  European  brothers  have  learned  and  applied  to 
their  profit.  Our  American  cooks  show  a  painful  lack 
of  ingenuity  in  adapting  the  less  palatable  and  less  ex- 
pensive fish  and  meats  by  skillful  cooking  and  the  use  of 
sauces  as  is  done  abroad.  In  Germany  classes  were  es- 
tablished to  teach  the  art  of  cooking  fish  and  thus  extend 
and  improve  the  menu  at  small  cost.  The  fish  recipes 
offered  have,  therefore,  an  economic  value  as  well  as  an 
interest  from  the  gustatory  and  nutritional  point  of 
view. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH 


ISH  should  be  a  great  resource  of  the  house- 
wife. Its  use  not  only  adds  another  course, 
another  possibility,  but  variety  and  delicious- 
ness  to  the  diet. 

In  buying  fish  select  those  showing  plainly 
that  they  are  fresh ;  those  with  bright 
eyes,  firm  flesh,  shiny  scales,  red  gills,  and 
stiff  fins.  Beware  of  one  with  dull,  sunken  eyes,  dry 
scales  easily  loosened,  or  flesh  so  soft  that  it  shows  an 
indentation  if  the  finger  is  pressed  against  it.  Fish  is  at 
its  best  when  eaten  as  quickly  as  possible  after  being 
caught.  Frozen  fish  is  perfectly  wholesome  but  should  be 
cooked  as  soon  after  thawing  as  possible,  therefore  the 
wise  housewife  purchases  the  fish  while  frozen  and  thaws 
it  in  her  own  home,  rather  than  to  have  the  thawing 
done  in  the  fish  market.  Frozen  fish  spoils  quickly  after 
thawing,  so  that  this  is  merely  a  safe  precaution.  One 
cannot  hope  to  find  firm  flesh  in  fish  that  has  once  been 
frozen,  so  that  this  old-time  "  rule  for  fresh  fish  "  must 
be  disregarded  in  selecting  fish  that  are  shipped  frozen. 
In  buying  fish  we  pay  for  a  great  deal  of  waste  ma- 
terial which  has  to  be  thrown  away.  This  amounts  in 
some  cases  to  70  per  cent,  of  the  total  weight.  So  it 
often  proves  more  economical  to  buy  a  solid  slice  from 
a  large  fish  at  a  seemingly  high  price  than  to  buy  a  whole 
small  fish  at  a  lower  price  per  pound. 

147 


148    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Preparation  for  Cooking 

Did  you  ever  watch  a  guide  or  sportsman  prepare  a 
fish  for  broiling  over  a  wood  fire  on  the  shore,  or  in  the 
woods?  The  deftness  and  ease  with  which  he  scales  and 
cleans  it  may  be  employed  with  as  good  results  at  home. 
He  grasps  the  fish  firmly  and  scales  it  first,  working  from 
the  tail  toward,  the  head.  The  blade  of  the  knife  should 
be  held  slightly  slanting  against  the  fish,  so  that  the 
scales  fall  back  on  the  knife.  When  necessary  rinse 
the  blade  in  cold  water  and  continue  to  work  until  no 
scales  are  left.  Then  split  the  fish  open  from  the  gills 
half  way  down  the  lower  part  of  the  body,  take  out  the 
entrails,  and  wash  the  fish  carefully  inside  and  out.  If 
the  fish  is  small,  as  smelts,  it  may  be  cleaned  by  cutting 
a  slit  at  the  gills,  bending  back  the  head,  and  pressing 
the  entrails  out  through  the  opening.  This  leaves  the 
body  of  the  fish  in  better  shape  than  if  it  were  cleaned  in 
the  usual  way.  When  fish  are  bought  in  market  they 
are  generally  cleaned  and  scaled.  If  necessary,  complete 
the  process,  being  careful  to  remove  every  trace  of  blood 
which  may  have  remained  on  the  inside  along  the  bone. 
Wash  the  fish  under  the  faucet  or  wipe  it  off  with  a  damp 
cloth  and  then  wipe  it  dry.  The  fish  is  now  ready  for 
cooking  unless  it  is  desired  boned. 

Any  fish  may  be  boned,  but  those  with  small  bones, 
such  as  shad,  or  herring,  are  not  so  frequently  prepared 
in  this  way  as  cod  or  haddock,  from  which  the  bones 
may  be  more  easily  removed.  Before  starting  work,  rub 
the  fingers  over  with  salt,  so  that  the  fish  may  be  held 
without  slipping.  Then  cut  off  the  head,  cut  down  both 
sides  of  the  fin  on  the  back  the  entire  length  of  the  fish, 
and  pull  off  this  strip  of  skin.  Loosen  the  rest  of  the  skin 
below  the  head  and  pull  it  off,  first  on  one  side  of  the  fish 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH  149 

and  then  on  the  other.  Now  begin  at  the  tail  and  work 
toward  the  head,  scraping  the  flesh  from  each  side  of  the 
backbone  and  removing  the  backbone  and  spine  entire. 
A  few  small  bones  will  probably  be  left  sticking  in  the 
flesh,  but  these  may  be  easily  pulled  out. 

The  fish  is  now  in  pieces,  freed  from  skin  and  bone, 
and  ready  to  cook  as  desired.  These  strips  of  fish  are 
called  fillets,  and  may  be  used  whole  or  cut  into  small 
pieces.  Recipes  often  call  for  fillets  of  halibut  or  other 
large  fish.  To  prepare  these  cut  off  the  skin  which  is 
around  the  edge  of  the  slice,  remove  the  bone  in  the  cen- 
ter, and  cut  the  flesh  into  pieces  the  right  size  for  in- 
dividual service. 

To  Boil  Fish 

Unless  one  has  risen  early  in  the  morning  and  gone 
in  a  dory  to  the  salmon  weir  bringing  back  her  fish  with 
her  to  be  broiled  for  breakfast  or  boiled  for  dinner,  she 
has  not  known  what  salmon  is.  Hard  and  firm  as  beef- 
steak, enticing  in  color,  delicate  in  flavor,  this  in  its  real 
home  is  a  treat.  And  salmon,  because  of  its  texture  and 
the  distribution  of  the  oil  in  its  body,  is  one  of  the  best 
of  fishes  to  cook  by  boiling.  Boiling  in  general  is  a 
wasteful  and  tasteless  way  of  cooking  fish,  but  such  firm 
and  well-flavored  varieties  as  salmon  and  bluefish  may 
be  cooked  in  this  way.  In  the  cooking  of  both  meats  and 
fish  there  is  a  Scylla  and  a  Charybdis  to  avoid,  and 
a  middle  course  which  must  be  pursued.  Two  things 
have  to  be  kept  in  view  in  the  boiling  of  fish — the  effect 
of  cold  water  and  the  appearance  of  the  fish.  Cold  water 
draws  out  the  juices;  boiling  water  will  ccmtract  and 
crack  the  skin.  It  is  therefore  necessary  to  cook  the  fish 
at  the  simmering  point  and  with  care. 


Place  the  fish  on  a  fish  rack  or  sheet,  or  tie  in  a  piece 
of  cheesecloth,  and  place  in  hot  water  to  which  has  been 
added  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 
or  lemon  juice  to  each  two  quarts  of  water  or  stock. 
Bring  quickly  to  boiling  point,  then  let  it  cook  at  the 
simmering  point  until  thoroughly  done,  no  longer.  Count 
the  time  from  the  moment  the  water  reaches  boiling 
point,  estimating  from  five  to  eight  minutes  to  a  pound, 
depending  upon  the  thickness  of  the  fish,  a  thick  solid  fish 
taking  longer  than  a  slim,  more  delicate  one.  The  fish 
is  done  when  the  flesh  separates  readily  from  the  bones. 
When  the  fish  is  cooked  lift  it  carefully  from  the  water, 
drain,  remove  cloth,  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin  to 
absorb  any  extra  liquid  from  the  fish.  Garnish  with 
parsley  or  cress,  and  slices  of  lemon  or  beets,  and  serve 
with  a  hollandaise,  bechamel,  or  drawn-butter  sauce. 

The  decrease  in  nutritive  value  and  flavor  when  a  fish 
is  boiled  causes  the  use  of  what  is  called  a  court  bouillon 
in  the  place  of  water.  This  is  merely  a  stock  made  by 
sauteing  vegetables,  such  as  celery,  carrot,  and  onion, 
chopped  fine,  in  butter,  adding  vinegar,  cloves,  bay  leaf, 
etc.,  and  boiling  with  the  addition  of  water  until  this  is 
well-flavored.  The  fish  is  cooked  in  this,  or  it  may  be 
put  in  the  water  and  the  vegetables,  spices,  etc.,  added 
directly  to  this  for  the  cooking  process. 

Fish  is  often  marinated  before  cooking.  Brush  the 
flesh  over  with  olive  oil  and  sprinkle  it  with  lemon  juice; 
lay  on  top,  slices  of  onion  and  strips  of  red  or  green 
pepper.  Drain  the  fish  and  cook  as  desired.  Cooked 
fish  which  is  to  be  used  as  a  salad  is  much  improved  by 
standing  for  several  hours  in  equal  parts  of  olive  oil  and 
vinegar,  a  little  salt  and  paprika,  and  a  few  drops  of 
onion  juice.  Drain,  mix  with  salad  dressing,  and  serve 
on  crisp  lettuce  leaves. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH  151 

The  Baking  of  Fish 

The  head  and  tail  may  be  left  on  a  fish  that  is  to  be 
baked.  Fill  the  cavity  with  dressing,  being  careful  not 
to  get  it  so  full  that  there  will  be  no  room  for  expansion 
of  the  crumbs  during  cooking.  Sew  the  sides  of  the  fish 
together  over  the  dressing,  using  buttered  string,  so  that 
it  may  be  easily  removed  when  the  fish  is  served.  If  the 
fish  is  lean  and  dry,  lard  it  as  follows:  Cut  four  or  five 
gashes  on  each  side  of  the  backbone  and  insert  in  each 
a  strip  of  salt  pork  to  furnish  fat  during  baking,  thus 
adding  juiciness  and  flavor  to  the  flesh. 

When  the  fish  is  to  be  served  whole  it  should  be  trussed 
in  an  upright  position,  if  possible.  It  bakes  more  evenly, 
browns  better,  and  is  more  easily  served.  It  is  better  to 
keep  a  baking  dish  or  pan  to  be  used  solely  for  fish,  the 
fishy  taste  being  more  difficult  to  remove ;  or  use  paper 
bags.  Dredge  the  fish  with  salt  and  pepper;  put  pieces 
of  salt  pork  in  the  pan  under  and  around  the  fish,  but 
add  no  water  unless  needed.  The  oven  should  be  hot  at 
first,  so  that  the  fish  will  brown  in  about  thirty  minutes. 
Then  reduce  the  heat  and  bake  the  fish  slowly  for  a 
second  half-hour,  basting  it  often  with  the  fat  in  the  pan. 

Slices  or  fillets  of  fish  are  often  baked  in  milk  in  an 
earthen  dish,  and  are  delicious.  The  bone  may  be  re- 
moved from  the  center  of  a  slice  of  fish,  the  cavity  filled 
with  dressing,  and  the  top  covered  with  buttered  crumbs. 
Bake  for  about  thirty  minutes,  and  serve  with  a  cream  or 
hollandaise  sauce.  Small  pieces  of  fish  can  be  cooked 
with  vegetables  in  a  casserole  very  much  as  meat  is 
cooked,  and  are  a  novelty. 

The  Broiling  Process 

Any  small,  flat  fish  may  be  broiled,  or  a  slice  from  a 
large  fish  used.  An  oily  fish,  however,  is  much  better 


152    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

cooked  in  this  way  than  a  dry  fish,  as  the  fat  present 
prevents  the  flesh  from  becoming  hard.  In  fact,  there 
are  certain  fish  that  connoisseurs  say  should  be  cooked 
in  no  other  way. 

If  a  whole  fish  is  to  be  broiled,  remove  all  scales,  and 
split  the  fish  down  the  backbone.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  if  the  flesh  of  the  fish  is  dry  instead  of  oily, 
spread  it  with  soft  butter  or  olive  oil.  Heat  a  wire 
broiler  and  grease  it  thoroughly  with  a  piece  of  salt  pork. 
Place  the  fish  inside  the  broiler,  with  the  thin  part  in  the 
middle  folded  over  so  as  to  have  a  fish  of  even  thickness. 
Hold  the  flesh  side  near  the  heat  until  browned;  turn 
and  brown  on  the  skin  side.  Broil  slowly  on  the  flesh 
side  for  about  twenty  minutes  more,  then  broil  on  the 
skin  side  for  ten.  Remove  from  the  broiler  to  the  serving 
platter,  garnish,  and  serve. 

If  the  broiling  is  to  be  done  in  a  gas  stove,  the  fish 
may  be  placed  in  a  greased  tin,  skin  side  down,  and  put 
under  the  flame  in  the  broiling  oven.  Leave  the  burners 
on  full  until  the  fish  is  nicely  browned;  then  turn  them 
down  as  low  as  possible  and  let  the  fish  cook  for  about 
thirty  minutes. 

A  planked  fish  is  prepared  in  a  similar  way,  except 
that  the  fish  is  cooked  on  an  oiled  plank  instead  of  a  tin. 
Before  serving,  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  is  piped 
around  the  fish  and  browned  slightly  in  the  oven,  vege- 
tables are  added,  the  plank  is  garnished  as  elaborately 
as  desired,  and  sent  to  the  table. 

How  to  Fry 

Small  fish  or  fillets  of  large  fish  may  be  covered  with 
egg  and  crumbs  and  fried  in  deep  fat.  Wash  the  fish 
and  dry  them  thoroughly,  being  careful  not  to  bruise  the 


153 

flesh.  Roll  in  egg,  slightly  beaten  and  diluted  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water",  and  cover  with  fine  bread 
crumbs.  Or,  if  you  prefer,  dip  the  fish  in  a  thin  batter. 
The  outside  of  the  fish  must  be  completely  covered  with 
something  which  will  cook  instantly  when  plunged  into 
the  hot  fat.  Have  enough  hot  fat  in  a  deep  frying  pan  to 
entirely  cover  the  fish.  Put  a  few  fish  in  a  frying  basket 
at  a  time  and  brown  in  hot  fat.  Drain  on  brown  paper 
and  serve  with  tartare  or  some  other  as  highly  seasoned 
sauce.  Extreme  care  must  be  taken,  especially  in  frying 
fish,  to  cook  long  enough  to  be  thoroughly  done,  but  not 
so  long  that  flesh  becomes  dry  and  hard. 

The  three  points  to  observe  in  successful  frying  are  to 
have  the  fat  smoking  hot,  a  fat-proof  covering  over  the 
fish,  and  that  after  frying  the  fish  should  be  thoroughly 
drained  before  serving. 

Sauted  Fish 

To  saute  means  to  brown  first  on  one  side  and  then  on 
the  other  in  a  small  amount  of  fat.  Rich,  oily  fish  should 
not  be  cooked  in  this  way,  as  they  are  already  too  rich  in 
fat,  which  changes  in  flavor  if  allowed  to  cook  from  the 
fish  and  become  overheated. 

Wash  the  fish  and  wipe  dry.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  cover  with  Indian  meal  or  white  flour.  Cook 
some  salt  pork  in  a  hot  frying  pan  until  the  fat  is  well 
tried  out.  Put  in  the  fish  and  let  them  cook  until  nicely 
browned  on  both  sides.  Be  careful  not  to  have  the  fire 
so  hot  that  the  fish  will  burn  before  it  cooks  through. 

Halibut  in  Lemon  Sauce 

Three  pounds  of  halibut,  cut  into  pieces,  four  inches 
long  and  one  inch  thick,  two  onions,  medium  size,  sliced 


154    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

thin,  two  cupfuls  of  water,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil, 
one  tablespoonful  each  of  ground  ginger  and  mace,  and 
one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  red  pepper  dissolved  in  one 
cupful  of  boiling  water,  one  cupful  of  strained  lemon 
juice,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  parsley,  three  eggs,  one-half  cupful  of  canned 
tomatoes.  Wash  the  fish,  then  salt  it,  let  it  stand  for 
two  hours ;  take  the  water,  onions,  and  oil,  and  boil  until 
the  onions  are  cooked,  then  pour  this  into  a  bowl.  Put 
the  fish  in  a  saucepan,  pour  the  onion  mixture  over  the 
fish,  also  the  dissolved  spices  and  tomatoes ;  boil  until 
the  fish  is  cooked.  Beat  the  eggs  and  flour  together,  then 
add  the  lemon  juice,  pour  a  little  of  the  gravy  that  is  on 
the  fish  into  this,  beat  well  so  that  the  eggs  will  not 
curdle,  pour  this  on  the  fish  and  let  it  simmer  for  a  few 
minutes,  place  the  fish  on  a  platter,  and  the  sauce  in  a 
gravy  bowl.  Set  aside  to  cool.  Any  fish  can  be  used, 
but  it  will  not  be  as  rich. 

Baked  Halibut 

From  a  slice  of  halibut  about  four  inches  thick,  care- 
fully remove  the  bone  and  spread  the  fish  apart.  Fill 
the  hole  with  bread  dressing  seasoned  with  butter,  salt, 
a  very  little  onion  and  sage.  Cover  the  top  with  thin 
slices  of  bacon.  Place  on  a  rack  in  a  baking  pan  with  a 
little  water  and  baste  until  baked.  Set  the  bacon  aside, 
and  when  ready  to  serve,  place  around  the  fish.  The 
bacon  will  burn  if  left  on  the  fish  until  baked.  Thicken 
the  gravy  and  serve  separately. 

Mexican  Codfish 

Saute  to  a  pale  yellow  a  small  onion  chopped  fine,  in 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter;  then  add  two  tablespoon- 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH  155 

fuls  of  flour,  half  a  green  pepper  minced,  and  a  cupful 
of  stewed  and  strained  tomato  pulp.  When  the  sauce 
reaches  the  boiling  point,  add  half  a  pound  of  flaked  cod- 
fish that  has  been  slightly  freshened  in  cold  water,  and 
parboiled ;  simmer  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  very 
hot,  garnished  with  triangles  of  fried  bread. 


Planked  Salmon  with  Potato  Balls 

Have  the  salmon  cut  in  steaks  one  and  one-half  or  two 
inches  thick.  Two  steaks  of  average  size  can  be  placed 
on  a  medium-sized  plank.  Oil  the  plank  thoroughly, 
place  the  fish  upon  it,  and  broil  under  a  gas  broiler, 
turning  the  flame  low  after  the  first  few  moments.  Or 
it  can  be  baked  in  the  oven  of  a  range.  Serve  on  the 
plank,  surrounded  by  potato  balls  cut  with  a  French 
vegetable  cutter.  Heat  one-fourth  cupful  of  cream,  add 
salt  and  pepper,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  finely 
chopped  parsley.  Shake  the  potato  balls  in  this  until 
well  covered  with  the  seasonings.  Serve  hollandaise 
sauce  with  the  planked  salmon. 


Baked  Salt  Mackerel 

Soak  one  large  mackerel  over  night,  drain  and  rinse 
in  clear  water.  Place  in  a  well-buttered  casserole  with 
the  flesh  side  up.  Or  better  still,  cook  the  mackerel  in  a 
well-buttered  paper  bag.  Cover  the  fish  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  sprinkle  well  with  finely 
grated  bread  crumbs,  seasoned  with  pepper  or  paprika. 
If  the  mackerel  is  not  baked  in  the  paper  bag  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  water,  being  careful  not  to  get  it  on  top 


156    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

of  the  mackerel,  which  would  destroy  its  crispness.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  crumbs  are  brown  and  the 
fish  flaky  and  white.  Serve  on  a  platter  with  thin  slices 
of  lemon. 

Baked  Halibut,   Spanish  Style 

Have  a  slice  of  halibut  weighing  two  pounds  cut  three 
inches  thick.  Place  in  a  buttered  pan,  cover  with  one 
cupful  of  tomatoes  (canned,  or  three  fresh  ones),  one 
thinly  sliced  onion,  one  chopped  green  pepper,  salt,  pep- 
per, one  cupful  of  water,  and  one-fourth  cupful  of  but- 
ter. Bake  slowly  until  fish  is  done,  and  serve  with  the 
vegetables. 

Codfish  Puff 

Pare  and  slice  enough  potatoes  to  make  one  pint,  add 
one  pint  of  codfish  picked  in  small  pieces.  Place  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water  and  bring  slowly  to 
boiling  point.  Drain  off  this  water,  cover  with  boiling 
water,  and  cook  until  the  potato  is  done;  drain  and 
mash  fine.  Melt  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  add  the 
same  amount  of  flour  and  rub  smooth ;  add  one  and  one- 
half  cupfuls  of  milk,  then  the  fish  and  potato  mixture, 
and  cook  five  minutes.  Cool,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  then  the  beaten  whites,  turn  into  a  buttered 
baking  dish,  and  bake  slowly  thirty-five  minutes.  Serve 
immediately  as  for  any  souffle. 

Salpicon  of  Codfish 

Prepare  rounds  of  crisp  buttered  toast,  covering  each 
with  a  layer  of  minced  button  mushrooms,  season  highly 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH  157 

with  salt  and  paprika,  and  heap  upon  each  toast  circle 
a  tablespoon ful  of  flaked  boiled  codfish;  place  in  a  shal- 
low baking  pan,  pour  over  a  rich  hollandaise  sauce  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  heated  through.  Serve 
immediately,  garnished  with  crisp,  blanched  celery. 

Creamed  Codfish 

Soak  over  night  some  good  salt  codfish.  In  the  morn- 
ing, drain,  and  cut  into  small  pieces.  To  one  cup  of  fish 
add  two  cupfuls  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  cut  into  cubes. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  cream  enough  to 
cover.  Cook  slowly  one-half  hour.  The  cream  thickens 
by  evaporation,  and  the  potatoes  and  fish  are  very  deli- 
cate prepared  this  way.  Serve  with  fresh  tomatoes, 
dressed  with  oil  and  vinegar,  in  the  season  of  tomatoes. 

Salmon  Jelly  Salad 

Soften  one  tablespoonful  of  granulated  gelatin  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water;  add  half  a  cupful  of  boil- 
ing water,  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 
Strain  and  place  the  bowl  in  ice  water;  stir  until  it 
begins  to  stiffen,  then  add  one  cupful  of  cold  flaked 
salmon,  half  a  cupful  of  finely  cut  celery,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  peas.  When  stiff  enough,  fill  small  indi- 
vidual molds,  which  have  been  wet  with  cold  water,  and 
chill.  Turn  out  upon  lettuce  leaves  and  garnish  with 
mayonnaise. 

Salmon  Shells 

Remove  all  skin,  bones,  and  oil  from  a  one-pound 
can  of  salmon.  Break  into  bits.  Add  a  chopped  boiled 


158    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  &OOK 

egg.  Add  one  cupful  of  bread  (one  day  old).  Stir 
into  thickened  cream,  a  cupful  for  this  amount.  Fill 
green  pepper  shells.  Top  off  with  butter,  and  bread 
or  cracker  crumbs.  Bake  till  brown,  and  serve. 


Parisian  Salmon 

The  salmon -should  be  cut  if  possible  from  the  middle 
of  the  fish  in  rather  thick  slices.  After  it  is  washed 
and  dried,  wrap  it  securely  in  cheesecloth  and  let  it  sim- 
mer until  tender  in  soup  stock,  to  which  have  been  added 
a  bay  leaf,  two  chopped  onions,  a  stalk  of  celery,  one 
diced  carrot,  and  some  parsley,  then  drain  and  place  on 
a  hot  platter,  pouring  over  the  following  sauce :  Place  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  double  boiler  a  cupful  of  milk, 
adding,  when  hot,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  meat  extract, 
salt,  and  celery  salt  to  taste,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  corn- 
starch  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water;  be  sure  the  sauce 
boils  at  least  twice,  and  then  stir  in  a  cupful  of  asparagus 
tips.  Serve  garnished  with  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes 
and  a  tiny  circle  of  green  peas. 

Salmon  Salad 

A  can  of  salmon  makes  a  delicious  salad  if  used  in  any 
of  these  combinations:  a  few  finely  cut  capers  and  a 
stalk  of  celery;  a  diced  cucumber,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
Bermuda  onion  finely  shaved;  two  tomatoes  sliced,  and 
four  small  cucumber  pickles,  minced  finely.  In  all  these 
the  salmon  is  marinated,  broken  into  pieces,  and  the 
mayonnaise  dressing,  in  which  the  vegetables  have  been 
lightly  tossed,  is  poured  over  one  large  mound  of  salad 
or  individual  small  ones. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH  159 

Molded  Mackerel 

Clean  and  cut  a  small  mackerel  in  thick  slices.  Place 
in  a  kettle,  cover  with  three  cupfuls  of  cold  water,  and  add 
one  slice  of  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  bit  of  bay  leaf, 
two  whole  cloves,  and  six  peppercorns  (whole  pepper)  ; 
simmer  for  an  hour.  Remove  the  fish  and  separate  into 
pieces  freed  from  skin  and  bones.  To  the  liquor  in  which 
the  fish-  was  cooked,  add  one  tablespoon ful  of  gelatine, 
which  has  been  soaked  in  one-fourth  cupful  of  cold 
water.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Strain  into  molds, 
which  have  been  wet  with  cold  water,  placing  pieces  of 
the  mackerel  in  the  bottom.  Chill,  unmold  on  lettuce 
leaves,  and  serve  with  the  following  sauce :  Beat  one- 
half  cupful  of  cream  until  stiff,  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  grated  horseradish,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
fourth  teaspoonful  of  paprika,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar. 

New  England  Fish  Chowder 

Select  a  good  haddock  or  cod.  Cut  in  small  pieces. 
Slice  a  two-inch  cube  of  salt  pork  into  strips,  place  in  a 
stew  pan,  and  fry  out  the  fat.  Remove  the  pork,  and  put 
in  a  layer  of  fish,  then  a  layer  of  sliced  onions,  and  alter- 
nate in  this  way  until  all  the  fish  is  used.  Mix  some 
flour  with  as  much  water  as  will  fill  the  pot,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Have  ready 
some  crackers,  which  have  been  softened  by  soaking  in 
cold  water,  butter  each  cracker  a  little,  then  put  them  in 
the  chowder  just  before  serving. 

Fish   Stew 

Clean  and  cut  into  pieces  any  variety  of  fish,  includ- 
ing clams  or  lobster — or  use  again  any  cooked  fish.  Allow 


160    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

a  half-pound  for  each  person.  Place  in  a  casserole  a 
cupful  of  oil,  with  an  onion,  two  tomatoes,  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  three  crushed  cloves  of 
garlic,  a  bay  leaf,  some  fennel,  a  little  orange  rind,  a 
pinch  of  saffron,  and  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper;  place 
over  a  brisk  fire  for  three  minutes;  then  add  the  fish, 
the  firmest  pieces  first ;  cover  with  boiling  water,  allow  to 
boil  hard  for  twelve  minutes.  Pour  the  bouillon  over 
slices  of  toasted  bread.  Serve  the  fish  with  bones  re- 
moved, in  a  separate  dish. 


Cream  of  Fish  Soup 

Whenever  one  has  boiled  fish,  or  perhaps  baked  fillets 
of  haddock,  the  head  and  bones  should  be  saved.  Put 
into  a  kettle,  cover  with  cold  water,  add  a  slice  of  onion 
and  carrot,  a  bit  of  bay  leaf,  and  cook  slowly  for  an 
hour.  Strain  off  the  liquor,  and  for  each  quart  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  flour  cooked  together. 
Boil  five  minutes,  season  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  add  one  cupful  of 
thin  cream.  Let  this  boil  up  once,  season  more  if  neces- 
sary, and,  just  before  serving,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
finely  chopped  parsley.  Sometimes  one  might  have  a 
few  peas  left  from  dinner,  and  they  may  be  added  to  the 
soup,  or  a  tablespoonful  of  carrot  dice,  giving  a  touch 
of  color,  as  well  as  adding  flavor. 


Broiled  Oysters  a  la  Francais 

Butter  ten  scallop  shells  and  place  four  or  five  oysters 
in  each.     Mince  one  large  onion,  and  half  a  clove  of 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH  161 

garlic,  and  cook  in  five  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  until  a 
delicate  brown.  Add  oyster  liquor,  with  a  half-cupful  of 
water,  one  cupful  of  crisp  bread  crumbs,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  minced  parsley ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
cayenne.  Mix  thoroughly  and  fill  scallop  shells.  Dot 
them  with  bits  of  butter  and  place  shells  on  a  tin  sheet. 
Broil  quickly  and  serve  at  once. 


Scalloped  Oysters 

Crush  a  dozen  unsweetened  crackers  and  put  a  layer 
in  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered  bake-dish.  Wet  this 
with  the  liquor  of  the  oyster  juice,  and  milk  warmed 
together.  Then  add  a  layer  of  oysters.  Sprinkle  with 
salt  and  white  pepper,  and  dot  with  bits  of  butter.  Then 
add  another  stratum  of  the  moistened  crumbs,  and  pro- 
ceed in  this  order  until  the  dish  is  full.  The  topmost 
layer  should  be  of  crumbs  and  thicker  than  the  rest. 
Beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  into  what  is  left  of  the  oyster 
liquor  and  milk,  and  moisten  the  uppermost  layer  with 
this.  Stick  bits  of  butter  thickly  all  over  it  and  bake,  cov- 
ered, for  half  an  hour.  Then  uncover  and  brown  lightly. 
There  is  no  more  delightful  preparation  of  oysters  than 
this. 


Savory  Shrimps  in  Chafing  Dish 

Melt  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  the  blazer  and 
add  two  or  three  drops  of  onion  juice;  add  one  cupful 
of  cream  and  one  cupful  of  boiled  rice.  Shred  one  can 
of  shrimps,  which  have  been  well  washed  in  cold  water, 
and  add  to  the  mixture.  When  thoroughly  heated,  add 


162    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

half  a  cupful  of  tomato  catsup.     Season  with  salt  and 
pepper  if  necessary,  and  serve  on  crackers  or  toast. 

Crabs  and  Shrimps,  Spanish  Style 

For  this  purpose  use  the  best  quality  of  canned  shrimps 
or  crabs,  if  fresh  ones  are  not  obtainable.  Cook  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  with  one  of  minced  green  pepper, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  minced  onion,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  chili  sauce,  or  tomato  catsup,  until  brown. 
Put  away  until  required.  Cook  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  with  one  of  flour,  add  one-half  cup  of  rich  milk, 
and  when  boiling  add  the  green  pepper  mixture,  one- 
half  cup  of  shrimps,  and  the  same  of  crabs,  or  use  but 
one  of  these  and  a  few  fresh  mushrooms  cooked  in 
butter.  These  could  be  cooked  in  the  chafing-dish  pan 
before  making  the  sauce. 

Crab   Rabbit 

Prepare  this  on  the  chafing  dish  and  have  the  toast 
made  beforehand.  Melt  three  teaspoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  add  to  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Cook  this 
well,  then  add  one  and  one-fourth  cupfuls  of  cream,  and 
cook  until  it  is  thick,  not  allowing  it  to  boil ;  season  it 
with  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  minced  parsley; 
add  to  it  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  chopped,  boiled  crab 
meat;  when  it  is  well  heated  add  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  Parmesan  cheese  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce. 

Flaked  Crab  Meat  in  the  Chafing  Dish 

Utilize  the  contents  of  a  can  of  crab  meat  and  with  a 
silver  fork  flake  it  into  small  pieces,  adding  two  chopped 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH  163 

hard  cooked  eggs,  one  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley, 
and  salt  and  paprika  to  taste ;  meanwhile  prepare  in  the 
chafing  dish  about  two  cupfuls  of  rich  cream  sauce,  by 
blending  together  two  even  tablespoonfuls  each  of  melted 
butter  and  flour  and  adding  one  cupful  of  milk  or  cream ; 
be  sure  that  the  sauce  boils,  then  stir  in  the  other  ingre- 
dients, and  serve  on  rounds  of  hot  buttered  toast,  gar- 
nishing each  portion  with  a  little  grated  egg  yolk.  This 
can  be  served  in  crab  shells. 

Hollandaise  Sauce 

Beat  one-half  a  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream.  Add  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  beating  thoroughly  into 
the  butter.  Season  with  salt  and  paprika  or  a  few  grains 
of  cayenne  pepper.  The  sauce  should  not  be  hot  with 
pepper.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  double  boiler,  gradually 
add  one-half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  cook,  stirring 
constantly  until  the  sauce  thickens.  Add  one  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice  and  remove  from  fire.  The  curdling  oc- 
curs when  the  sauce  is  overcooked  or  heated.  The  eggs 
then  cook  hard  in  grains,  and  it  gives  the  appearance 
of  curdling. 

Drawn  Butter  Sauce 

Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  gradually  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  one  cupful  of  boiling  water. 
When  smooth  and  cooked  sufficiently,  add  one-fourth 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Lobster  Sauce 

Boil  a  small  lobster  and  remove  meat.  Place  bones 
and  tough  meat  at  end  of  claws  in  a  sauce-pan  with  three 


164    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

cupfuls  of  cold  water,  a  slice  of  onion,  and  of  carrot, 
sprig  of  parsley,  bit  of  bayleaf,  and  a  few  peppercorns. 
Simmer  for  half  an  hour — and  strain  off  the  liquor.  Melt 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  add  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  pour  on  one  cupful  of  the  strained  liquor. 
When  thickened,  add  one-half  cupful  of  cream,  and  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  also  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of 
paprika,  and  the  meat  of  the  lobster  cut  in  small  pieces. 
If  one  wishes  to  use  the  meat  for  a  salad,  the  sauce  is  ex- 
cellent in  flavor  without  the  pieces  of  meat. 

Mock  Hollandaise 

Melt  one  tablespoonful  of  butter;  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  one-half  cupful  of  milk,  and  cook  until 
thickened.  Then  add  one-half  cupful  of  butter  a  little 
at  a  time ;  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoonful 
of  paprika,  and  a  little  cayenne. 

Planked  Lake  Superior  White  Fish 

Procure  a  large  white  fish  (Isle  Royale  is  best),  have 
it  properly  boned ;  cut  thin  slices  of  salt  pork ;  have  an 
oak  board,  long  enough  for  the  fish  and  about  one  and 
one-half  inches  thick;  put  slices  of  pork  on  the  board 
for  a  bed  upon  which  to  place  the  fish.  Season  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  celery  salt.  You  may  add  other  season- 
ings if  you  wish.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  minutes, 
or  until  a  delicate  brown.  When  the  fish  has  been  cooked 
twenty  minutes,  pipe  hot  mashed  potato  around  the  edge 
of  the  plank,  brush  the  edges  of  the  potato  with  the 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  FISH  165 

milk,  and  set  the  plank  in  a  hot  oven  to  brown  the  edges 
of  the  potato  and  finish  cooking  the  fish.  Garnish  with 
lettuce  and  thin  slices  of  lemon.  Serve  hollandaise 
sauce  with  this. 

Creamed  Salt  Codfish 

Soak  the  fish  overnight  in  cold  water.  Drain,  and  cut 
or  pick  the  fish  into  small  pieces,  having  two  cupfuls. 
Into  an  iron  frying-pan  put  the  fish,  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  sprinkle  over  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  until  butter  is  melted,  then  add 
enough  milk  just  to  cover  the  fish,  and  allow  this  to 
cook  slowly  until  thickened.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
if  necessary,  and  just  before  serving  add  one  slightly 
beaten  egg,  mixed  with  a  little  of  the  liquid.  Serve  on 
toast,  or  in  a  deep  dish,  garnished  with  triangular  pieces 
of  toast. 

Cape  Cod  Creamed  Fish  and  Potatoes 

Soak  -salt  codfish  for  several  hours  in  cold  water. 
Drain  and  cut  into  small  pieces.  Cut  cold  cooked 
potatoes  into  dice,  and  mix  with  the  fish,  having  equal 
quantities  of  fish  and  potatoes.  Put  into  a  saucepan  with 
them  sufficient  cream  to  cover  the  fish  and  potatoes ;  sea- 
son to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  and  paprika,  and  cook 
slowly  until  cream  thickens,  about  forty  minutes. 

Shad  Roe  Croquettes 

Cover  one  set  of  shad  roe  with  boiling  water,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  simmer  twenty  minutes.  Drain, 
remove  the  membrane  with  a  silver  fork,  and  mash  the 


166    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

roe.  Season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  onion,  a  half- 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  a  grating  of  nut- 
meg, and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Heat  a  half-pint  of  milk  in  a  saucepan;  when  hot, 
stir  in  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  rubbed  with  the 
same  amount  of  flour.  When  smooth,  take  from  the  fire 
and  add  a  half-cupful  of  soft  bread-crumbs,  two  hard- 
boiled  eggs  chopped  fine,  and  a  dash  of  black  pepper. 
Add  the  shad  roe;  mix,  and  cool.  Then  form  into 
cylinders,  dip  in  egg  beaten  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
water,  roll  in  dry  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  deep,  hot  fat. 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  FISH         167 


i68        MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  FISH 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  FISH         169 


170        MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  FISH 


POULTRY 

By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

LOSELY  related  to  fish  is  poultry.  Poultry 
has  fallen  into  partial  disfavor  in  this  coun- 
try by  reason  of  the  insanitary  methods  of 
handling  it.  There  is  perhaps  a  greater 
quantity  of  unfit  poultry  offered  on  the 
American  markets  than  any  other  one  kind 
of  food.  Things  are  getting  very  much 
better  now  since  Dr.  M.  E.  Pennington,  of  the  U.  S. 
Department  of  Agriculture,  has  studied  and  made  public 
the  proper  methods  of  handling  poultry  from  producer 
to  consumer.  In  years  gone  by,  immense  quantities  of 
poultry  have  been  put  into  cold  storage  in  an  unfit  state 
and,  naturally,  they  were  not  improved  when  taken  out. 
Cold  storage,  however,  may  be  used  with  advantage, 
both  with  fish  and  poultry,  and  other  food  products, 
when  these  products  are  in  a  proper  condition  to  be 
stored  at  the  time  of  entry  into  the  warehouse.  One 
objection  to  poultry  at  the  present  day  is  its  high  price. 
We  probably  pay  more  for  a  given  amount  of  nutrition 
in  the  form  of  poultry  than  in  almost  any  other  form  of 
meat.  Poultry,  therefore,  is,  when  properly  -preserved 
and  prepared,  more  a  food  for  the  well-to-do  than  for 
the  poor. 


171 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  COOK  POULTRY 


FEW  simple  rules  cover  the  selection  of  all 
poultry.  In  the  first  place,  the  bones  should 
be  tender;  that  is,  if  one  places  the  fore- 
finger of  the  right  hand  in  the  hollow  of  the 
neck  (at  the  elbow  of  the  wishbone)  and 
the  thumb  of  the  same  hand  at  the  end  of  the 
breastbone  and  then  contracts  the  hand  gently, 
if  the  bird  is  young  and  tender  the  bone  will  give;  if  it 
is  old  and  tough,  the  bone  will  be  stiff  and  hard,  and 
impossible  to  bend.  The  same  is  true  of  the  wings.  If 
the  bones  are  tender  and  bend  under  pressure,  the  bird 
is  young. 

There  is  another  test  for  wings,  akin  to  that  used  in 
the  testing  of  fish.  If,  when  the  wings  are  pulled  out, 
they  spring  back  into  shape  when  released,  it  is  a  sign 
of  young  meat.  The  same  thing  is  true  of  the  feet  of  the 
bird.  If,  when  spread  apart,  they  collapse  easily,  the  bird 
is  young.  The  breastbone  and  wingbones  may  be  broken 
in  order  to  make  the  unsophisticated  think  that  the  bird 
is  young,  but  it  is  a  simple  matter  to  feel  the  bones 
crunch  under  such  circumstances,  when  one  may  be  fairly 
certain  that  the  bird  is  no  longer  young. 

Another  test  is  that  the  skin  should  be  firm  and  smooth. 
The  color,  authorities  say,  should  be  yellow.  This  is  not 
a  question  of  age  or  youth,  but  of  the  breecl,  and  con- 
sequently is  not  of  special  value.  On  the  other  hand, 
hairs  are  a  sign  of  age,  and  while  it  is  said  that  pin- 
feathers  are  a  sign  of  youth,  this  is  not  true,  because  the 

i73 


174    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

presence  of  feathers  and  the  color  of  them  depend  upon 
the  breed  of  the  chicken  and  the  time  of  year  it  is  killed. 
Heavy  scales  on  the  feet  are  also  a  sign  of  age ;  but  with 
a  turkey,  when  the  spurs  are  soft  and  loose,  it  is  a  good 
sign. 

In  domestic  poultry  the  flesh  of  the  breast  and  wings 
will  be  white,  and  should  be  firm  and  not  heavily  fatted, 
while  the  legs  are  of  dark  meat.  In  game,  the  meat 
of  the  bird  throughout  is  usually  dark  and  the  wings 
will  be  of  a  tougher  quality  than  the  legs,  which  is  exactly 
the  reverse  in  the  domestic  bird.  This  is  because  in  the 
one  the  wings  are  used  in  flying,  while  in  the  other  the 
legs  are  the  means  of  locomotion,  and  in  consequence 
the  fibers  will  be  heavier  and  coarser.  The  breast  of 
game  should,  if  it  is  good,  be  full  and  firm  and  rather  fat. 
On  the  whole,  game  will  have  a  large  percentage  of  fat 
in  its  composition  and  be  less  easily  digested  than  chicken 
or  turkey. 

Chickens  which  are  not  a  year  old  are  known  as 
broilers,  and  at  the  present  time  are  usually  incubated. 
Chickens  which  are  exactly  a  year  old  are  known  as 
prime  roasters,  and  those  over  a  year  old  are  qualified 
by  the  term  "  fowl."  The  so-called  spring  chicken,  which 
appears  in  the  market  in  January,  weighs  about  one  and 
one-half  pounds.  Fowls  are  the  best  from  March  until 
June.  Turkeys  are  the  best  in  the  winter  months. 
Geese  are  usually  at  their  best  from  May  until  Sep- 
tember. A  goose  twelve  weeks  old  is  called  a  "  green 
goose."  Young  geese  are  often  called  goslings.  The 
time  of  the  quail  and  partridge  is  limited  by  the  game 
laws,  but  as  a  rule  we  can  find  them  on  the  market  in 
fall,  while  we  have  the  plover  through  the  spring  and 
cold  storage  at  other  seasons.  The  grouse  comes  in  the 


Steamed  Squash  in  Shell. 
Recipe  on  Page  335. 


Boiled  Asparagus. 
Recipe  on  Page  3/7. 


Q 
-si 


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•AJ 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  COOK  POULTRY    175 

available  at  all  times  of  the  year,  provided  we  are  willing 
to  pay  the  price. 

In  general,  the  domestic  poultry  should  be  well  cooked, 
and  the  game  served  rare.  This  statement,  however, 
should  be  qualified  by  the  fact  that  if  the  game  is  white- 
meated  it  should  be  better  done.  The  characteristic 
flavor  is  not  a  sign  of  tainted  meat,  as  some  occasionally 
think,  but  of  breed  and  life.  Game  should  never  hang 
any  longer  than  until  it  is  just  tender. 

Chicken  a  la  King  (Waldorf) 

Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  saute  in  this 
half  of  a  green  pepper,  with  seeds  and  midribs  removed 
and  chopped  fine,  and  one  cupful  of  fresh  mushrooms 
carefully  peeled  and  broken  in  pieces.  Add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  and  cook  until  the  flour  is  smooth,  but 
not  browned.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  cream,  then  put  where 
it  will  simmer  only  and  cook  until  the  sauce  is  thickened 
and  the  flour  thoroughly  cooked.  Add  three  cupfuls  of 
cooked  chicken,  cut  in  dice,  and  put  the  mixture  over 
hot  water  in  a  double  boiler.  Beat  one-fourth  of  a  cupful 
of  butter  to  a  cream,  add  three  egg  yolks,  one  at  a  time, 
beating  steadily.  Stir  this  into  the  hot  chicken  and  stir 
carefully  until  the  egg  thickens.  Be  careful  not  to  cook 
too  rapidly,  for  the  sauce  should  be  smooth.  Season  with 
onion  juice,  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  salt,  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  paprika.  Serve  at  once  on  toast. 

Wild  Turkey 

Wipe  the  cavity  of  the  body  with  a  dry  cloth  after 
rinsing  it  out  with  water  to  which  you  have  added  a  little 


176    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

baking  soda.  Have  ready  a  rich  force-meat  made  of 
bread-crumbs,  bits  of  fat  pork,  chopped  very  fine,  pepper, 
and  salt.  Beat  in  an  egg  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter.  Use  neither  onion  nor  herbs  in  the  sea- 
soning, for  they  destroy  the  "  gamey  "  flavor.  Stuff  and 
truss  as  you  would  a  domestic  fowl  and  lay  in  the  drip- 
ping-pan. Dash  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  it  to  sear 
the  skin  and  keep  in  the  juices.  Roast  in  a  steady  oven, 
allowing  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound.  Baste  frequently 
for  an  hour  with  butter  and  water ;  then  four  times  with 
gravy  from  the  dripping-pan,  lastly  three  times  with 
melted  butter.  Dredge  with  flour  at  the  last,  and  froth 
with  butter,  to  brown  the  whole  body.  Drain  off  the 
gravy,  keeping  the  turkey  hot  over  boiling  water ;  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  thicken  with  browned  flour  and 
the  giblets,  which  have  been  boiled  tender  and  chopped 
very  fine.  Garnish  with  small  sausages  and  curled 
parsley. 

Mint  Chicken  Cream 

Pick  into  small  pieces  sufficient  fresh  mint  leaves  to 
fill  half  a  cup,  covering  with  boiling  water,  and  allowing 
it  to  stand  for  twenty  minutes;  then  strain  and  add  a 
scant  pint  of  chicken  stock,  stirring  in  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  white-wine  vinegar,  the  juice  of  half  an  onion,  pepper, 
and  salt  to  taste,  and  two  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of 
gelatin  softened  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water. 
Simmer  slowly  only  until  the  gelatin  is  dissolved  and 
remove  from  the  fire,  setting  in  a  cold  place,  until  slightly 
thickened ;  add  a  cupful  of  cold  diced  chicken,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cooked  peas,  and  a  scant  cupful  of  stiffly 
whipped  cream ;  mold  in  a  ring-mold,  placing  it  directly 
on  the  ice  to  chill  and  harden.  When  ready  to  serve,  un- 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  COOK  POULTRY    177 

mold  on  a  glass  platter,  filling  the  center  with  crisp  heart 
lettuce  leaves  and  garnishing  with  tiny  pink  radishes. 


Roast  Turkey,  Chestnut  Stuffing 

Select  a  turkey,  preferably  a  hen  turkey,  weighing  not 
over  ten  or  twelve  pounds.  If  the  family  be  large,  it  is 
better  to  have  two  ten-pound  turkeys.  See  that  the  breast 
is  plump,  the  legs  pliable,  and  do  not  be  governed  by  the 
fact  that  the  skin  is  white  and  fair  —  sometimes  they  are 
not  so  good  as  those  which  are.  darker  in  color.  Have 
the  bird  drawn,  and  if  possible  the  tendons  drawn  from 
the  legs.  Singe,  cut  neck  close  to  body,  remove  pin- 
feathers,  and  thoroughly  scrub  the  bird  inside  and  out, 
being  careful  that  it  does  not  stay  in  the  water.,  Wipe 
well  and  stuff,  then  truss  and  put  in  a  roasting-pan, 
breast  down.  Sprinkle  with  flour  and  salt,  and  place  in 
a  hot  oven.  Baste  every  fifteen  minutes  the  first  hour 
of  roasting,  using  butter  and  hot  water.  After  turning 
the  bird  over  on  its  back,  cover  the  breast  with  butter, 
and  brown.  If  a  crust  is  desired,  cream  together  butter 
and  flour,  using  twice  as  much  butter  as  flour.  A  ten- 
pound  turkey  needs  three  hours  to  cook,  and  more  time 
will  not  hurt  it.  The  heart,  liver,  and  gizzard  should 
be  cooked  in  water  until  the  last  is  tender.  The  neck 
may  be  cooked  with  them,  and  this  stock  is  excellent 
for  making  gravy,  or  if  a  bread  stuffing  is  used,  for 
moistening  the  bread.  Chop  and  add  them  to  the  gravy. 

Chestnut  Stuffing 

Blanch  one  pound  of  Italian  chestnuts,  boil  till  very  ten- 
der, and  put  through  a'  ricer.  Add  one  cupful  of  bread- 


178    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

crumbs,  one-half  cupful  of  shortening,  one  and  one-half 
tablespoonfuls  of  poultry  seasoning,  one-half  cupful  of 
seeded  raisins,  with  salt,  pepper,  celery  salt,  sugar,  and 
cayenne  to  taste.  Mix  thoroughly.  This  is  excellent  for 
poultry  and  game. 


Jellied  Chicken  Sandwiches 

Chop  the  meat  of  a  cold  chicken  with  one  stalk  of 
celery,  or  put  all  through  a  food-chopper.  Season  with  a 
little  grated  onion  and  minced  parsley.  Soak  one  table- 
spoonful  of  granulated  gelatine  in  one  teaspoonful  of 
water  until  soft,  then  add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet 
cream  and  heat  over  hot  water  until  the  gelatine  is  dis- 
solved. Add  the  chicken  meat,  lemon  juice,  salt,  and 
paprika  to  taste,  beat  all  together  thoroughly  and  pour 
into  a  shallow,  oblong  pan,  wet  in  cold  water.  Set  on 
ice  to  chill,  then  cut  in  slices  to  fit  the  bread  cut  for 
sandwiches. 


Spanish  Fricassee   of   Chicken 

Cut  up  a  chicken  or  fowl,  weighing  about  four  pounds, 
in  pieces  for  serving,  put  in  a  kettle  with  five  cups  of 
boiling  water,  and  simmer  until  chicken  is  tender.  Re- 
move meat,  cool,  then  roll  each  piece  in  seasoned  flour 
and  fry  a  delicate  brown  in  fat.  Wash  and  cook  in  the 
liquor  one  cupful  of  rice,  (which  has  been  fried  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter),  with  one  tablespoonful  each, 
of  onion  and  red  and  green  pepper.  Add  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  When 
rice  is  tender  turn  on  to  a  platter,  and  on  it  arrange  the 
pieces  of  chicken.  Garnish  with  parsley. 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  COOK  POULTRY    179 
Chicken  Rechauffe 

In  blazer  of  chafing  dish  put  one-half  tumbler  of  cur- 
rant jelly,  one  cupful  of  cream,  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste. 
Bring  all  to  the  boiling  point,  and  in  it  place  slices  of 
cold  cooked  chicken.  Serve  when  meat  is  thoroughly 
heated.  Any  meat  except  beef  and  ham  may  be  utilized 
in  this  way. 

Roast  Goose 

Singe,  draw,  wash;  stuff,  and  truss  a  goose.  Dredge 
with  flour  and  salt,  and  lay  strips  of  fat  pork  over  the 
breast.  Roast  in  a  hot  oven  two  hours,  basting  frequently 
with  butter  and  hot  water. 

Stuffing 

Chop  finely  two  onions,  mix  with  one-fourth  cupful 
of  finely  chopped  pork,  and  combine  with  two  cupfuls  of 
hot  mashed  potato  and  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  soft 
stale  bread  crumbs.  Add  one-third  cupful  of  butter,  one 
beaten  egg,  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one 
teaspoonful  of  sage,  and  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of 
black  pepper. 

Russian  Apple  Stuffing  for  Roast  Goose 

Chop  two  cupfuls  of  tart  apples,  Greenings  or  Baldwins 
preferred,  with  one  cupful  of  seeded  raisins.  Stuff  goose 
and  truss  as  usual.  The  flavor  is  delicious  and  quite 
different. 


180          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Roman  Chicken 

Cook  half  a  pound  of  vermicelli  and  drain  thoroughly. 
Spread  upon  a  platter  and  cover  it  with  a  highly  seasoned 
tomato  sauce.  Shred  the  white  and  dark  meat  of  a  small 
cooked  chicken  into  fibers  no  larger  than  a  match  and 
lay  them  upon  the  sauce.  Cut  four  sticks  of  celery  and 
a  Bermuda  onion  very  fine,  season  with  salt,  paprika,  a 
dash  of  ginger,  cloves,  and  cinnamon  (if  desired),  and 
cook  brown  in  a  little  butter.  Spread  over  the  chicken 
and  put  into  the  oven  to  get  very  hot.  Moisten  with  a 
little  chicken  stock  if  needed  and  serve  very  hot. 

Chicken  Curried 

Cook  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  one  slice  of 
onion,  one-fourth  of  an  apple,  sliced,  one  tablespoonful 
of  grated  cocoanut  or  minced  almonds,  a  little  salt  and 
paprika,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder  dissolved 
in  a  little  water.  When  required  cook  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter  with  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  add  one-half  cup- 
ful of  chicken  stock  or  gravy,  and  one  cupful  of  diced 
chicken  mixed  with  one-half  cupful  of  cream.  Add  the 
curry  mixture  and  serve  in  ramekins. 

Chicken  Cutlets 

One  cupful  of  chopped  cooked  chicken,  seasoned  with 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice,  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice.  Make  a  sauce,  using  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  one-half  cupful  of 
cream,  and  one  egg;  add  this  to  chicken,  and  cook  all 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  COOK  POULTRY    181 

together  three  minutes.  Cool,  shape  in  the  form  of  cut- 
lets, roll  in  fine  bread-crumbs,  dip  in  egg,  roll  in  crumbs, 
and  fry  in  deep  fat.  Serve  with  a  white  mushroom  sauce. 


White  Mushroom  Sauce 

Drain  half  a  can  of  mushrooms,  and  cut  in  slices. 
Melt  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  add  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  chicken-stock,  and  cook 
until  thick  and  smooth.  Season  with  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and 
a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg.  Add  one-half  cupful  of 
cream,  and  the  mushrooms.  Serve  as  soon  as  heated. 

Fried  Chicken 

Cut  up  a  young  chicken  in  pieces  for  serving.  Roll 
each  piece  in  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Into 
an  iron  frying-pan  put  sufficient  fat,  half  lard  and  half 
butter,  to  make  an  inch  in  depth;  lay  in  the  chicken,  and 
cook  until  brown,  turning  frequently.  Cover  closely,  re- 
move to  a  cooler  part  of  the  range,  and  let  cook  for 
twenty-five  minutes.  Drain  on  paper  and  serve  very  hot. 


182    MORE  W 'AYS  OF  COOKING  POULTRY 

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MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  POULTRY    183 


184   MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  POULTRY 


MEAT 


By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

EXT  to  cereals,  meat  in  the  broad  sense  of 
that  term,  including  beef,  mutton,  and  pork, 
is  the  most  important  of  our  food  products. 
It  is  important  not  only  from  a  nutritional 
point  of  view,  but  also  because  of  its  eco- 
nomical aspects.  The  number  of  meat  ani- 
mals in  this  country  is  actually  decreasing  for 
some  kinds,  while  none  is  keeping  pace  with  the  in- 
crease of  population.  The  natural  result  of  this,  aside 
from  manipulation  on  the  markets,  is  an  increasing  de- 
mand and  a  decreasing  supply.  This  has  worked  out  at 
the  present  time  into  a  condition  in  which  the  price  of 
meats  is  higher  to  the  consumer  than  ever  before.  This, 
however,  does  not  affect  in  any  way  the  value  of  meat 
as  a  food.  With  all  due  deference  to  our  vegetarian 
friends,  whose  opinions  I  respect,  I  am  fully  convinced 
that  man  is  an  omnivorous  animal.  He  makes  a  mis- 
take when  he  confines  his  diet  to  any  one  particular  form 
of  food.  Man  can  thrive  quite  well,  however,  on  a 
vegetable  diet.  Perhaps  this  should  be  modified  by  say- 
ing on  what  is  generally  called  "  a  vegetable  diet "  be- 
cause the  vegetarian  as  a  rule  eats  eggs,  drinks  milk,  and 
uses  butter,  all  of  which  are  animal  products.  The  lean 
or  muscular  part  of  meat  is  essentially  a  tissue  builder, 
while  the  fat  is  a  heat  and  energy  former.  Some  kinds 
of  meat,  as,  for  instance,  beef,  can  be  eaten  every  day 

185 


186    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

without  palling  on  the  appetite.  In  this  respect  beef 
occupies  the  same  position  as  wheat  and  some  other 
vegetables.  One  caution,  however,  should  be  presented 
in  regard  to  meat-eating,  and  that  is  that  it  should  not 
be  overdone.  There  are  two  reasons  for  this,  one,  the 
economic  aspect  of  the  problem,  and  second,  the  nutri- 
tional relations  of  meat  to  healthy  growth.  I  should  say 
that  for  grown  people  meat  once  a  day  is  quite  sufficient, 
while  for  young  children  who  still  consume  quantities 
of  milk,  meat  is  not  at  all  an  essential  part  of  the  diet, 
and  in  my  opinion  they  are  better  off  without  it.  To- 
day people,  especially  those  who  live  at  hotels  and  res- 
taurants, eat  too  much  meat  for  their  own  good,  and  I 
believe  that  if  meat  consumption  could  be  placed  on  a 
scientific  basis  the  economic  aspects  of  the  problem  might 
well  be  solved  and  the  demand  might  not  exceed  the 
supply. 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  MEATS 
Tests  for  Fresh  Wholesome  Meat 

RESH,  sound,  sweet  meat  is,  of  course,  the 
only  kind  to  be  considered.  It  is,  as  a  rule, 
almost  odorless,  but  has  a  slight  fleshy  smell 
that  is  pleasant  to  a  normal  person.  The 
olfactory  nerves  usually  may  be  depended 
upon  to  detect  a  tainted  condition  contracted 
by  contact  with  fish,  vegetables,  or  unclean 
vessels,  cutting-block,  or  scales ;  decomposition  due  to 
exposure  or  undue  delay  in  selling  the  meat;  a  strong 
natural  odor  such  as  is  sometimes  found  in  the  flesh  of 
old  animals,  especially  males;  or  a  rancid  state  as  in 
stale  cured  bacon  and  ham. 

There  are  those  who  relish  meat,  especially  beef,  that 
has  "  ripened  "  by  remaining  several  weeks  in  cold  storage 
at  about  38  degrees  Fahrenheit,  the  degree  of  ripeness 
varying  from  fresh  to  near-decay  according  to  the  time 
and  conditions  of  storage  and  the  quality  of  cut  or 
carcass,  and  the  objects  being  to  improve  both  the  flavor 
and  tenderness  of  the  meat.  Only  fat,  mature  beef,  and 
mutton  usually  are  subjected  to  this  treatment,  and,  as  a 
rule,  only  for  such  customers  as  city  hotels,  clubs,  and 
the  commissaries  of  other  large  establishments.  The 
dark  and  sometimes  quite  moldy  surface,  high  (not  to  say 
strong)  odor,  and  the  unattractive  general  appearance  of 
such  meats  makes  it  unsuitable  for  regular  retail  trade 

187 


i88     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

because  many  patrons  would  consider  it  unsound;  but 
when  properly  handled  it  is  quite  as  wholesome  as  other 
foods  which  are  artificially  ripened,  such  as  cheese  or 
fruit.  For  ordinary  use,  two  days  to  a  week  in  the  chill- 
room  is  sufficient.  Meat  used  less  than  thirty-six  to 
forty-eight  hours  after  slaughter  is  likely  to  be  tough, 
due  to  a  set  condition  of  the  muscles  called  "  rigor 
mortis." 

Considerable  quantities  of  frozen  meat,  also,  are  sold 
in  retail  market  from  late  winter  to  summer,  having  been 
stored  at  about  15  degrees  Fahrenheit  since  the  preceding 
fall.  If  sold  immediately  after  careful  thawing,  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  distinguish  frozen  meats  from  fresh,  but  as  handled 
in  some  retail  markets  they  sometimes  become  soft,  flabby, 
and  slimy.  When  from  animals  too  young  to  be  suffi- 
ciently developed  for  food,  veal  and  spring  lamb  cuts 
have  gluey  or  gelatinous  flesh  and  abnormally  soft, 
cartilage-like  bone.  Such  meats  should  be  carefully 
avoided.  Although  not  necessarily  dangerous  it  is  at 
best  repulsive  and  unwholesome. 


Judging  the  Color 

Perhaps  the  first  characteristic  that  catches  the  eye 
is  the  color  of  the  steak  or  chop  under  consideration. 
Good  beef,  when  first  cut,  is  a  rich,  bluish  red,  which 
turns  bright  cherry  or  pale  red  when  exposed  a  few 
minutes.  The  blue  or  purplish  shade  frequently  remains 
until  the  steak  is  unwrapped  in  the  kitchen,  and  is  not,  as 
sometimes  suspected,  an  indication  of  poor  or  old  meat. 
Veal  varies  from  almost  white  to  light  red,  but  should  be 
a  dull  pink  to  be  at  its  best.  Lamb  cuts  range  from  light 


Flank  Steak.    A  Juicy  Beefsteak — Tender  and 
Appetizing  if  Carefully  Cooked. 


\ 


Inferior  Ham. 


Choice  Ham. 


Standing  Rib  Roast. 

This  Cut  may  be  Roasted  as  it  is,  or  made  into  a  Short  Rib 
Roast  by  Cutting  Off  the  End  at  the  Left;  or  the  Bone 
Removed  and  the  Meat  Rolled  Up. 


Common  Porterhouse  Steak  from  Stripper  Loin. 

Represents  Steaks  used  in  Many  Districts  where  Small 

Markets  are  Patronized. 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  MEATS  189 

pink  to  grayish  red,  according  to  the  age  and  quality 
of  the  lamb ;  and  mutton  is  a  dull  brick  red.  Pork  from 
young  pigs  is  nearly  white  and  that  from  older  animals  is 
dull  pink  or  rose  color.  The  fat  of  all  meat  should  be  as 
nearly  white  as  possible,  free  from  clots  and  spots,  and 
of  a  firm,  clear  consistency. 

Dark  colored  flesh,  in  general,  is  characteristic  of  older 
animals;  is  usually  more  pronounced  in  males  than  in 
females;  and  is  sometimes  due  to  incomplete  bleeding. 
Generally,  therefore,  it  is  not  of  the  best  grade.  But  be 
not  deceived  by  color,  for  it  sometimes  "  happens,"  in 
violation  of  pure  food  regulations,  that  meat  wears  an 
artificial  complexion,  purchased  at  the  drug  store.  Occa- 
sionally, too,  a  cut  that  is  abnormally  dark  in  color  proves 
to  be  all  one  can  desire  as  to  its  "  eating  qualities."  The 
latter  statement  applies  especially  to  the  outer  fat  which, 
in  beef  cuts,  is  sometimes  quite  yellow,  it  applies  also  to 
dried  and  smoked  meats,  some  of  which  can  be  appre- 
ciated only  by  tasting. 

Now  a  few  words  which  will  serve  to  guide  the  reader 
to  recognize  the  general  appearance  of  good  beef.  Be- 
sides soundness  and  proper  color,  a  tempting  appearance 
in  meat  requires  good  shape — full,  thick,  and  plump  ac- 
cording to  the  kind  of  cut — even,  smoothly  cut  surfaces, 
firm  condition  and  absence  of  all  indications  of  coarseness 
in  the  flesh  and  bone.  Words  can  scarcely  describe  that 
subtle  something  called  general  quality ;  it  must  be  im- 
pressed by  actual  observation  of  the  details  we  are  at- 
tempting to  define;  by  careful  attention,  for  example,  to 
the  size  and  shape  of  the  "  eye "  of  a  rib-roast ;  the 
amount,  character,  and  color  of  bone,  as  well  as  meat 
in  a  pork  chop,  the  smoothness,  thinness,  and  quality  or 
rind  on  a  strip  of  breakfast  bacon. 

As  an  exception  to  the  rule,  the  unfavorable  influence 


THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

of  the  ripening  process  upon  external-  appearance  has 
already  been  mentioned.  Certain  kinds  of  cured  meat, 
as  for  example  Virginia  hams,  which  hang  for  a  year 
or  two  before  being  used,  are  most  shrunken  and  un- 
sightly; but  the  price  commanded  by  such  meats  (fifty 
cents  a  pound  for  Smithfield  hams)  testifies  to  their  inner 
goodness. 

Signs  of  Tenderness 

Toughness  is  the  shortcoming  that  causes  more  com- 
plaints than  any  other  characteristic  of  our  daily  meat ; 
so  much  so,  indeed,  that  more  essential  points  are  usually 
sacrificed  to  overcome  it.  For  instance,  veal  is  in  con- 
stant demand  even  at  high  prices,  merely  because  it  is 
naturally  tender ;  whereas  mature  beef  is  much  more 
nutritious,  has  a  decidedly  richer  flavor,  loses  less  weight 
in  cooking  and,  furthermore,  if  properly  cooked,  may  be 
made  practically  as  tender. 

Although  no  infallible  rule  can  be  stated  that  will  cer- 
tainly indicate  whether  a  given  cut  will  turn  out  tender 
when  cooked,  nevertheless  careful  observation  will  assist 
greatly  in  making  a  good  guess.  Look  for  fine,  smooth 
grain  or  fiber,  little  connective  tissue,  a  velvety,  pliable 
feeling,  and  such  consistency  that  the  flesh  may  be  pene- 
trated with  the  finger  or  easily  cut  with  a  knife,  yet  firm 
in  condition  rather  than  soft  and  flabby.  With  some  ex- 
ceptions, the  fatness  of  the  meat  and  the  degree  of 
"  marbling,"  or  distribution  of  fat  throughout  the  lean, 
are  indications  of  tenderness ;  and  a  light  color  shows 
usually  that  the  cut  is  from  a  young  animal  and  should 
be  tender. 

Whether  meat  is  cut  with  the  grain,  or  across  it,  makes 
much  difference  in  its  apparent  fineness  or  coarseness  of 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  MEATS  191 

fiber,  and  this  must  be  considered  in  judging  of  tender- 
ness. Even  the  tenderloin  of  beef  or  of  pork  looks 
stringy  when  cut  lengthwise,  and  the  flank  steak  still  more 
so.  Lean  meat  is  made  up  of  elongated  cells  of  muscular 
tissue,  bound  into  small  bundles  by  a  thin  white  mem- 
brane called  connective  tissue.  The  more  of  this  con- 
nective tissue,  the  tougher  the  meat.  Fortunately,  how- 
ever, it  is  susceptible  to  softening  by  heat,  which  changes 
it  to  gelatin;  so  that,  within  certain  limits,  it  is  under 
the  control  of  the  cook.  By  adequate  treatment,  such  as 
fireless  cooking,  the  natural  toughness  of  cuts  from  these 
parts  that  have  been  exercised  most,  like  the  legs  and 
neck,  or  cuts  from  old  and  poorly  fattened  animals,  may 
be  largely  reduced  or  eliminated ;  and  thus  meat  may  be 
selected  with  due  regard  not  only  to  tenderness  but  also 
to  flavor,  food  value,  and  economy.  "  Marbling "  in 
meat,  particularly  in  beef,  also  softens  the  connective 
tissues  by  filling  their  cells  with  globules  of  fat. 

Another  indication  of  the  degree  of  tenderness  in  meat 
is  the  texture  and  color  of  bone.  Comparatively  soft, 
spongy,  and  reddish  "colored  bones  indicate  that  the  cut 
is  from  a  young  animal,  while  hard,  dense,  white  bones 
are  characteristic  of  old  ones.  The  "  lamb  joint,"  or 
"  break  joint,"  found  on  the  legs  or  shanks  of  lamb  is 
a  good  illustration  of  this  point.  In  dressing  lambs,  the 
foot  is  broken  off  at  a  suture,  or  false  joint,  just  above 
the  ankle,  while  in  sheep  this  suture  is  knit  or  ossified, 
and  the  foot  must  be  removed  at  the  round  joint. 

Next  to  tenderness,  the  greatest  satisfaction  in  eating 
meat,  regardless  of  the  kind,  depends  upon  the  juiciness 
and  flavor.  Dry,  stringy  meat  is  neither  palatable,  nutri- 
tious, nor  economical;  while  a  juicy  cut  meets  all  three 
requirements.  It  is  the  cell  substance  that  makes  meats 
juicy ;  the  cell  walls  and  connective  tissue  that  make  it 


192 

stringy.  There  is  a  decided  difference,  too,  between  meat 
of  a  juicy  nature  and  that  which  is  merely  watery.  The 
former,  as  developed  in  prime  beef  or  mutton,  more 
nearly  retains  its  substance,  and  shape  in  cooking,  while 
the  latter,  as  in  veal,  shrinks  largely,  due  to  the  loss  of 
water,  leaving  it  comparatively  dry  and  tasteless. 

Flavor  is  closely  associated  with  the  juiciness  of  meat. 
As  just  indicated,  it  develops  with  the  growth  of  the 
animal,  and  is  therefore  most  pronounced  in  mature  fat 
carcasses.  Veal  and  lamb  cuts  are  deficient  in  flavoring 
material  as  compared  with  beef  and  mutton.  Generally, 
too,  "  the  nearer  the  bone  the  sweeter  the  meat,"  and  the 
cheaper  cuts  from  joints  that  are  exercised  most  are 
equal,  or  superior,  in  point  of  flavor,  to  those  from  the 
more  tender  parts  along  the  back  and  loin. 

Well  marbled  meat  has  a  distinctive  flavor,  due  to  the 
rich  taste  which  the  intermingled  fat  gives  it  when  cooked. 
Such  meat  is  also  more  susceptible  to  ripening  in  the 
butcher's  cooling-room  than  very  lean  or  watery  cuts. 
In  cured  meats,  particularly  sugar-cured  ham  and 
breakfast-bacon,  flavor  cuts  a  large  figure,  and  much  de- 
pends upon  the  methods  and  materials  used  in  curing  and 
smoking.  Being  generally  sold  under  brand  names,  the 
purchaser  has  a  fairly  good  guide  in  the  selection  of  a 
desired  flavor  in  such  meats.  It  is  true  that  few  com- 
mercially cured  meats  are  equal,  and  none  superior,  in 
palatability  to  the  genuine  farm-cured  article  at  its  best; 
but  the  latter  in  these  days  is  almost  extinct. 

We  Americans,  as  compared  with  the  English,  pay  little 
attention  to  the  natural  flavor  of  meats,  and  our  penchant 
for  putting  artificial  relishes  on  our  dishes  has  almost 
destroyed  our  sense  of  discrimination.  To  some,  how- 
ever, who  still  esteem  flavor,  a  choice  shoulder-roast  of 
lamb  or  of  pork  is  equal  or  superior  to  the  loin,  and  only 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  MEATS  193 

half  as  expensive;  flank  steak  at  eighteen  cents  is  pref- 
erable to  tenderloin  at  fifty;  a  choice  "California" 
round  roast  is  as  palatable  as  a  high-priced  prime  rib  of 
beef;  and  breast  of  veal  or  of  lamb  at  ten  cents  a  pound 
is  as  good  as  chops  or  cutlets  at  twenty-five.  Others, 
who  are  possessed  both  of  rich  tastes  and  of  ample  means, 
cheerfully  pay  a  premium  for  beef  cuts  that  have  been 
highly  "  ripened,"  or  for  hams  that  have  been  specially 
selected,  cured,  smoked,  and  aged. 


Choose  Meat  That  Is  Fat 

Although  most  meat  is  used  primarily  for  the  sake 
of  the  protein,  or  lean  tissue  that  it  provides,  the  pur- 
chaser makes  a  serious  mistake  who  objects  to  the  so- 
called  "  waste  fat "  that  choice  meat  must  have,  or  who 
chooses  unfinished  lean  cuts  in  order  to  avoid  it.  In 
the  first  place,  the  best  quality  of  lean  meat  requires  a 
sufficient  outer  layer  of  fat  to  give  it  good  keeping 
qualities  and  a  sightly  appearance,  and  at  least  a  moderate 
"  marbling  "  of  the  cut  to  make  it  rich  and  tender.  A 
roast,  steak,  or  chop  of  good  size  should  carry,  usually, 
one-fourth  to  one-half  inch  of  outside  fat,  and  other  cuts 
may  have  more  or  less,  according  to  their  class  and  size. 
Some  of  those  who  insist  on  the  leanest  bacon  would  find 
the  thicker,  fatter  grades  equally  palatable  and  cheaper. 

In  the  second  place,  fat  meat  is  two  and  one-fourth 
times  as  nutritious  from  an  energy  standpoint  as  lean, 
and  although  a  limited  amount  of  it  is  sufficient  for  direct 
use,  the  remainder  need  not  be  wasted,  but  may  be  utilized 
in  such  forms  as  gravies  and  drippings,  for  which  it  is  as 
good,  or  better,  than  butter.  Finally  proper  cooking,  par- 
ticularly broiling  and  roasting,  is  impossible  with  ex- 


194     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

tremely  lean  meat,  and  the  percentage  of  shrinkage  in 
cooking  is  high.  If,  from  choice  or  for  economy's  sake, 
lean  steak  is  ordered,  it  is  well  to  get  with  it  a  piece  of 
suet  so  that  it  may  be  made  savory  and  served  with 
its  own  gravy.  The  trouble  is  that  our  fancied  economy 
is  false ;  we  would  better  save  by  selecting  a  cheaper  class 
of  cut,  but  looking  well  to  its  quality. 


Cuts  of  Meat  Are  Not  Difficult  to  Learn 

Notwithstanding  a  prevalent  impression  that  the  dif- 
ferent cuts  are  difficult  to  distinguish,  the  truth  is  that 
they  can  be  learned  readily  by  anyone ;  for  the  structure 
of  the  bones  and  muscles  is  a  guide  that  seldom  leaves 
room  for  doubt  as  to  the  identity  of  any  cut  in  the  car- 
cass. By  referring  to  the  diagrams  and  photographs  that 
accompany  these  articles,  and  then  closely  observing  actual 
cuts  that  the  reader  may  venture  to  order  from  the  lists 
given  here,  it  will  be  found  quite  easy,  after  a  little  ex- 
perience, to  recognize  at  a  glance  any  of  the  cuts  that 
are  commonly  used. 

Cuts  of  the  quick  cooking  kind,  given  in  the  following 
list,  may  be  either  broiled  or  sauted.  Steaks  and  chops, 
for  best  results,  should  be  broiled  (either  grilled  or  pan- 
broiled)  ;  and  for  that  purpose  steaks  should  be  cut 
three-fourths  to  one  inch  thick — thicker  if  desired — and 
chops  one-half  to  three-fourths  of  an  inch.  Thin-cut 
chuck  and  round  steaks,  "  drop  tenderloins,"  and  pork 
or  mutton  chops  may  be  sauted  if  hard,  overdone  meat  is 
preferred,  as  it  is  by  some  people  with  perverted  tastes. 
Ham,  bacon,  salt  pork,  and  breaded  cutlets  also  are  cooked 
by  this  method.  None  of  the  meats  in  this  list  ever  should 
be  actually  fried,  that  is  covered  completely  with  hot  fat 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  MEATS  195 
Quick  Cooking  Cuts 

Weight  Retail  Price 

Pounds  Cents  per  Ib. 

Porterhouse  steak   il/2  to  3  20  to  35 

Club  steak    I       to  2  18  to  30 

Sirloin  steak  2      to  5  18  to  30 

Round  steak 2      to  5  14  to  22 

Top  round  steak 1 l/2  to  3  18  to  26 

Chuck  steak 2      to  4  12  to  18 

Flank  steak  i       to  2  15  to  20 

Veal  steak  I      to  2  18  to  25 

Pork  steak   i      to  il/2  15  to  20 

Mutton  chops  l/2  to    24  18  to  25 

Lamb  chops  1-5  to  1-3  20  to  30 

Veal  chops   ^4  to    ^  18  to  25 

Veal  cutlets  34  to  il/2  20  to  30 

Pork  chops    l/4  to     l/2  18  to  22 

Salt  pork i      to  3  12  to  16 

Fancy  breakfast  bacon 1-16  to     J^  25  to  35 

Medium  to  fat  bacon %  to    ]4-  16  to  25 


Below  are  listed  those  cuts  which  are  of  proper  size  and 
quality  for  roasting  and  baking  and  require  moderately 
quick  cooking.  Reasonably  fat  and  tender  meat  is  re- 
quired for  satisfactory  results.  Besides  the  cuts  named, 
very  thick  steaks  may  be  partially  broiled  and  afterwards 
roasted  or  baked  in  the  oven ;  and  breasts  of  lamb  and  of 
veal  are  sometimes  roasted,  though  generally  stewed. 


Moderately  Quick  Cooking  Meats 

Weight  Retail  Price 

Pounds  Cents  per  Ib. 

Prime  ribs  of  beef  (first  cut) 4      to  12  18  to  25 

Prime  ribs  of  beef  (last  cut) 4      to  12  16  to  20 

Shoulder  block  roast 4      to    8  12  to  18 

Chuck  rib  roast 4      to  10  12  to  18 

Beef  rump  4      to  12  12  to  16 

Beef  tenderloin  (fillet) 2      to    6  30  to  50 


196    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Weight  Retail  Price 

Pounds  Cents  per  Ib. 

Leg  of  mutton 6      to    9  15  to  20 

Loin  of  mutton 3      to    6  15  to  20 

Shoulder  of  mutton 3      to    6  12  to  15 

Leg  of  lamb 3^  to  6  18  to  28 

Loin  of  lamb 2      to  4  20  to  30 

Shoulder  of  lamb 3      to  4  15  to  20    ' 

Crown  lamb  roast 3l/2  to  6  20  to  35 

Hind  quarter  (spring  lamb) 5      to  8  20  to  25 

Fore  quarter  (spring  lamb) 5      to  8  15  to  18 

Pork  loin  2  to  8  16  to  20 

Leg  of  pork 3  to  12  16  to  20 

Ham  (smoked)   3  to  12  18  to  25 

Pork  tenderloin  */2  to      ^  281035 

Pork  shoulder 2  to  5  12  to  15 

Spare-ribs j/2  to  i  10  to  15 

Veal  loin  3      to    6  18  to  22 

Veal  leg  (fillet) 3      to  12  16  to  20 

Veal  shoulder  3      to    8  14  to  18 

The  cuts  that  are  best  for  long,  slow  methods  of  cook- 
ing may  be  subdivided,  for  convenience'  sake,  into  three 
classes :  boiling  meats,  stewing  meats,  and  soup  meats. 
The  first,  as  a  rule,  are  from  the  leaner  parts  that  are 
more  or  less  toughened  by  exercise.  Some  of  the  cuts 
listed  may  be  chosen  either  for  this  purpose  or  for  roast- 
ing, according  to  the  quality  of  meat.  Stewing  is  suitable 
for  fat  and  fairly  tender  meats,  such  as  breasts  and 
flanks  of  lamb;  but  some  lean  cuts  also  are  so  used. 
Soups,  broths,  and  beef  tea  are  made  from  the  bony  and 
muscular  parts  which  contain  an  abundance  of  flavoring 
substances. 


Slow  Cooking  Meats 

Weight  Retail  Price 

Boiling  Meats                       Pounds  Cents  per  Ib. 

Beef  horseshoe  piece  (end  round)..  4      to    8  10  to  16 

Beef  shoulder  clod 3      to    6  10  to  16 


JUST  HOW  TO'ftUY  MEATS  197 

Weight  Retail  Price 

Boiling  Meats                       Pounds  Cents  per  Ib. 

Rib  end  of  beef 2      to    6  8  to  14 

Cross-ribs  of  beef 2      to    5  8  to  12 

Beef  brisket 3      to    8  8  to  10 

Corned   beef,    rump,    flank,   plate   or 

brisket 2      to    8  10  to  16 

Beef  tongue   (fresh) 3       to    5  15  to  18 

Beef  tongue  (smoked) 2      to    3  25  to  30 

Leg  of  mutton 6      to    9  15  to  20 

Shoulder  of  mutton 3      to    6  10  to  15 

Shoulder  of  lamb 3      to    4  15  to  20 

Leg  of  pork 3      to  12  16  to  20 

Ham  (smoked)   3      to  12  18  to  25 

Pork  shoulder  (fresh) 3      to    8  14  to  16 

Pork  shoulder  (smoked) 3      to    8  10  to  12 

Pork  hocks.. \y2  to    2.y2  8  to  10 

Back-bones  and  neck-bones 2      to    8  8  to  10 

Stewing  Meats 

Beef  plate 3  to  6  8  to  10 

Beef  flank  2  to  6  6  to  10 

Drop  tenderloin i  to  2  10  to  \2l/2 

Beef  skirts i  to  2  8  to  10 

Beef  neck i  to  3  8  to  12 

Beef  shin 2  to  5  6  to  12 

Breast  of  mutton 2  to  4  6  to    8 

Breast  of  lamb i  to  2l/2  8  to  \2l/2 

Veal  breast  2  to  5  12  to  15 

Veal  neck i  to  2'  8  to  10 

Soup  and  Broth  Meats 

Shin  soup  bones I  to  4  4  to    6 

Hind  shank  soup  bones I  to  5  4  to    8 

Knuckle  soup  bones 3  to  7  4  to    6 

Oxtail i  to  2  8  to  10 

Beef  neck  i  to  3  6  to  10 

Beef  shoulder  clod i  to  2  10  to  14 

Beef  round  I  to  2  14  to  22 

Mutton  shouldei   i  to  2  10  to  15 

Mutton  neck i  to  2  8  to  10 

Mutton  shanks  i  to  il/2  8  to  10 


198    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Certain  cuts  may  be  made  most  palatable.  Such  meats 
are  pot  roast,  braised  and  browned  beef,  beef  a  la  mode, 
"  gravy  stews,"  and  baked  meats  which  are  previously 
boiled.  The  preparation  of  meat  in  most  of  these  ways 
was  more  familiar  to  our  grandmothers,  in  the  days  of 
pots  and  kettles,  than  to  us,  who  live  in  the  era  of  gas 
stoves.  But  with  the  modern  fireless  cooker,  even  those 
who  have  abandoned  the  coal  range  may  enjoy  the  meat 
dishes  of  old,  and,  what  is  better,  they  may  do  so  without 
giving  the  pot  any  occasion  for  uncomplimentary  remarks 
to  the  kettle. 

Pot  roasting  is  especially  adapted  to  shoulder  pot  roasts 
of  beef,  the  shoulder  block  roast  or  "  Boston  cut,"  and 
the  end  round  cut  or  "  horseshoe  piece."  Rumps,  bris- 
kets, shoulder  clods,  plates,  and  flanks  of  beef  and  shoul- 
der of  mutton  are  other  cuts  that  are  used  in  this  way. 

Braised  beef  usually  is  made  from  round  steak  cut  two 
or  three  inches  thick  (known  as  "  California  roast "  or 
"Swiss  steak"),  or  from  rumps,  flanks,  or  rib  ends. 
Beef  tenderloins,  mutton  chops,  ox  hearts,  and  ox  joint's 
(tails)  also  are  braised. 

Boiling  followed  by  baking  or  oven-roasting  is  a 
method  of  cooking  to  which  smoked  hams  and  shoulders 
or  "  picnics  "  are  especially  adapted.  Broiled  breakfast 
bacon,  when  extremely  salt,  is  improved  for  some  palates 
by  parboiling  first  for  a  minute  or  two.  Very  thick 
steaks  may  be  made  well  done  without  burning  the  sur- 
face if  they  are  broiled  partially  and  then  cooked  to  the 
desired  point  in  a  hot  oven. 

"  Made-over  dishes  "  in  endless  variety  may  be  made 
from  many  of  the  meats  listed,  and  especially  from  the 
cheaper  cuts.  In  this  way  five  to  ten  pounds  of  meat 
may  be  cooked  and  afterwards  served  in  five  to  ten  differ- 
ent ways,  with  little  loss  either  of  food  value  or  flavor. 


Sugar-Cured  Breakfast  Bacon. 

1.  Extra  Lean. 

2.  Medium. 

3.  Fat. 

Bacon  i  sells  100  per  cent.  Higher  than  3,  but  the  Quality 
and  Food  Value  are  Similar. 


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JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  MEATS  199 

As  hints  on  this  point  we  may  merely  mention  meat 
balls  or  cakes,  from  chopped  steak  or  veal ;  minced  meat 
from  any  of  the  leaner  cheap  cuts;  pot-pie,  especially 
from  mutton  shoulder;  beef  round  and  flank;  veal  loaf, 
from  shoulder  or  neck  of  veal ;  hash  of  the  various 
kinds ;  and  chili  con  carne,  goulash,  etc.,  from  beef  round 
or  chuck. 

Other  forms  in  which  to  utilize  fresh  meats  are :  home- 
made sausage,  from  lean  pork  two  parts,  lean  beef  one 
part  and  pork  one  part ;  Hamburg  steak,  from  beef  round 
or  chuck  or  from  the  flank  end  of  porterhouse  steaks ; 
head  cheese,  from  pigs'  heads  and  pork  trimmings;  and 
pressed  meat  loaf  (spiced),  from  beef  plates,  flanks,  or 
briskets. 


Ready-Cooked  Meats  and  Market  By-Products 

Prepared  meats  which  may  be  obtained  at  the  grocery 
or  delicatessen  shop  are  not  included  in  the  foregoing 
lists.  These  chiefly  consist  of  cooked  ham  and  pork 
loins,  dried  or  chipped  beef,  meat  loaf,  and  corned  beef, 
all  of  which  sell  under  the  general  name  of  "  lunch 
meats."  Other  ready-to-serve  meats  are  sausages  of 
numberless  kinds,  canned  and  potted  meats,  and  pickled 
tongues,  hearts,  and  pigs'  feet.  They  are  comparatively 
expensive  but  very  useful  to  serve  on  short  notice  or 
where  cooking  is  out  of  the  question. 

By-products  of  the  meat  market  should  not  be  over- 
looked. Some  of  them  are  relished  by  nearly  everyone, 
but  the  demand  largely  is  limited  to  restaurants,  hotels, 
and  similar  trade.  They  consist  of  both  delicacies  and 
"  rough  meats,"  the  designation  in  some  cases  depending 
upon  individual  tastes  and  notions.  Sweet-breads,  brains, 


200    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

hearts,  livers,  kidneys,  plucks,  and  tripe  are  the  prin- 
cipal products  of  this  kind.  By  means  of  skilful  cook- 
ing and  seasoning  surprisingly  palatable  and  wholesome 
dishes  may  be  made  from  many  of  them. 

Armed  with  these  specifications,  one  need  never  timidly 
ask  for  "  boiling  meat,"  for  example,  but  may  order 
by  name  a  cut  that  is  suited  to  the  desired  purpose, 
and  ten  to  one  the  butcher  will  select  and  put  it  up  with 
special  care.  Occasional  reference  to  lists  like  these  will 
assist  the  novice,  at  least,  to  introduce  variety,  obtain 
quality,  and  at  the  same  time  observe  economy  in  select- 
ing meat  for  the  family. 


JUST  HOW  TO  ROAST  MEATS 

HEN  the  meat  comes  from  the  market,  after 
weighing,  wipe  it  thoroughly  with  a  clean 
cheesecloth  wrung  out  of  hot  water.  Do 
not  wash  it.  Then  compute  the  time  neces- 
sary for  cooking.  Beef,  if  desired  rare, 
should  be  cooked  ten  minutes  for  each  pound 
counted  after  the  first  fifteen,  twenty,  or 
thirty  minutes,  depending  upon  the  size  of  the  meat. 
Take  a  roast,  weighing  eight  pounds,  desired  rare :  count 
eighty  plus  twenty  minutes,  or  one  hour  and  forty  min- 
utes. If  dinner  is  to  be  at  six-thirty,  the  oven  must  be 
ready,  and  the  meat  go  in  promptly  at  ten  minutes  of 
five.  If  desired  better  done,  it  needs  to  be  placed  in  the 
oven  at  four-thirty,  as  the  eight  pounds  multiplied  by 
twelve  minutes  equals  ninety-six,  plus  twenty  equals  one 
hundred  and  sixteen,  which  is  two  hours  within  four 
minutes. 


JUST  HOW  TO  ROAST  MEATS          201 

The  meat  should  not  be  seasoned  nor  dredged  with 
flour,  but  placed  in  a  hot  oven,  whether  the  piece  be 
large  or  small.  There  are  directions  which  say  "the 
smaller  the  meat  the  hotter  the  oven,"  and  others  that 
state  exactly  the  opposite.  Let  us  make  this  seeming 
discrepancy  quite  plain  to  the  beginner.  It  all  depends  on 
the  size,  but  especially  the  shape  of  the  roast. 

When  a  large  roast  is  put  in  the  oven,  it  takes  with 
it  a  sufficient  proportion  of  cold  to  perceptibly  lower 
the  heat  of  the  oven,  and  this  has  to  be  regained  before 
the  surfaces  of  the  meat  can  be  seared  over  and  prevent 
escape  of  the  juices.  On  the  other  hand,  because  meat 
is  a  poor  conductor  of  heat,  the  surface  of  a  large  piece 
of  meat  becomes  burned  or  charred  before  the  heat 
reaches  the  interior  if  the  oven  be  too  hot  at  first.  The 
very  hot  oven  sears  o'r  coagulates  the  surfaces  of  a  small 
roast  quickly,  and  therefore  aids  in  the  retention'  of  the 
juices  in  which  the  meat  should  cook. 

Hence,  the  sensible  directions  are  that  the  oven  should 
be  relatively  hotter  for  the  smaller  roast  than  for  the 
large  one,  and  then  the  heat  be  more  quickly  lowered 
to  complete  the  cooking.  The  first  heat  of  the  oven 
should  be  more  moderate  relatively  for  the  larger  piece, 
but  be  more  evenly  maintained. 

Meat  in  general  should  not  be  seasoned  before  cook- 
ing. Salt  has  what  is  called  in  physics  an  affinity  for 
water,  and  when  placed  on  the  surface  of  the  meat  does 
not  penetrate,  but  draws  the  juices  of  the  meat  toward 
the  surface,  thus  rendering  the  meat  tougher  and  more 
tasteless.  The  time  to  season  is  when  the  cooking  is 
finished. 

We  are  fully  aware  of  the  skepticism  raised  in  the 
old-fashioned  cook's  mind  by  such  a  statement,  but 
science  has  proved  it  correct.  And  we  can  only  request 


202     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

the  skeptics  to  do  the  fair  thing  and  try  it  for  them- 
selves. Let  them  take  two  roasts,  a  week  or  so  apart, 
as  nearly  alike  as  possible,  weighing  each  before  and 
after  cooking,  salting  one  and  not  the  other,  and  not  tell- 
ing the  family  what  has  been  done.  Then  record  and 
compare  the  results  in  the  two.  This  is  the  real  way  to 
learn  "  just  how." 


JUST  HOW  TO  BROIL  BEEFSTEAK 

ROILING  is  but  a  method  of  roasting  applied 
to  thin  pieces  of  meat.  That  is,  in  broiling  or 
grilling,  the  steak  or  chop  is  exposed  to  the 
direct  rays  of  the  fire,  whether  it  be  coal,  gas, 
or  electricity. 

A  perfect  steak  should  be  cut  one  and  one- 
half  inches  thick  and  cooked  quickly  over  a 
hot  fire,  so  that  both  sides  are  browned,  the  interior  being 
of  an  even  red  color.  The  steak  should  be  puffed  and 
elastic  from  the  confined  steam  of  the  juices,  and  every 
particle  of  juice  and  flavor  should  be  preserved,  not  lost 
in  the  cooking. 

To  do  this,  first  remove  the  superfluous  fat  from  the 
meat ;  heat  the  broiler  and  grease  it  well  with  a  piece  of 
this  fat.  Lay  the  steak  on  the  broiler  with  the  skin  or 
outside  edge  toward  the  handle.  This  is  done  because 
as  the  broiler  is  turned  it  is  tipped  down,  therefore  the 
melting  fat  runs  on  to  the  meat  instead  of  into  the  fire, 
if  the  steak  is  placed  right.  The  coals  should  be  red  and 
hot,  not  black  nor  burned  white.  Put  the  broiler  close 
to  the  coals  and  count  ten  slowly.  Turn  and  count  again. 
In  this  time,  if  the  fire  is  right  and  the  steak  can  be 


JUST  HOW  TO  BROIL  BEEFSTEAK       203 

sufficiently  near,  the  surface  will  be  seared  over  so  the 
juices  will  be  retained. 

Repeat  this,  however,  then  hold  the  broiler  further 
away  from  the  coals  or  fire,  that  the  steak  may  cook 
more  slowly.  If  the  meat  is  broiled  too  near  the  fire  all 
the  time  of  cooking,  the  outside  will  be  overdone,  the 
inside  underdone.  If  it  be  held  too  far  away  from  the  fire 
all  the  time  it  will  lose  its  juices  and  be  flat,  and  lacking 
in  flavor. 

When  broiling  steak  one  cannot,  or  should  not,  try  to 
attend  to  other  things.  It  requires  constant  attention ; 
for  the  steak  should  be  turned  every  ten  seconds,  for  a 
period  of  eight  to  ten  minutes,  according  to  the  thick- 
ness of  the  steak. 

When  the  fat  runs  into  the  fire  no  special  harm  is 
done,  unless  the  steak  is  permitted  to  absorb  the  smoke, 
when  it  occasionally  gets  a  smoky  taste.  The  flame  will 
not  hurt  it,  the  smoke  may.  When  properly  done,  little 
or  no  fat  or  juices  will  run  into  the  fire.  When  cooked 
it  will  be  just  the  right  brown,  and  this  look  one  learns 
only  by  experience.  Moreover  it  will  be  puffed  up  be- 
tween the  wires  of  the  broiler  and  will  offer  a  slight  re- 
sistance to  the  touch.  If  in  doubt  remove  the  broiler  to 
a  dish  on  a  table  and  make  a  clean  cut  on  one  side  with 
a  sharp  knife.  Do  not  before,  after,  or  during  cooking, 
pierce  the  steak  with  a  fork,  but  learn  to  judge  by  time 
and  appearance  as  to  the  condition  of  the  meat. 

If  the  steak  is  preferred  well  clone  the  process  is  more 
difficult,  but  after  the  first  quick  searing  over,  which 
must  be  done  as  rapidly  as  possible,  remove  the  steak 
farther  from  the  heat  and  cook  for  a  long  period.  It  is 
even  more  necessary  to  turn  it  frequently  when  desired 
well  done  than  when  cooked  rare,  if  one  wishes  a  per- 
fectly broiled  steak.  Cook  for  twelve  or  thirteen  minutes 


204    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

if  wanted  well  done  when  the  steak  is  an  inch  and  a 
half  thick.  A  thin  steak  requires  careful  handling,  but 
can  be  cooked  relatively  more  quickly  than  a  thicker  one, 
when  desired  well  done.  A  steak  two  inches  thick  will 
take  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes  to  broil  rare,  and 
needs  constant  attention. 

While  broiling  over  a  coal  fire  the  flue  dampers  should 
be  open,  to  carry  flame  and  odors  up  the  chimney. 

Do  not  let  the  steak  stand  before  serving  if  it  can  be 
avoided.  Dredge  with  salt  and  pepper  after,  not  before, 
cooking,  and  when  ready  to  serve  spread  with  butter  and 
garnish  with  parsley. 

Pan-broiling  means  to  broil  in  a  hot  pan  in  place  of 
over  the  coals.  It  should  not  be  confused  with  frying, 
sauteing,  or  any  such  method.  The  hot  pan  should  be 
rubbed  with  a  piece  of  fat  just  as  the  broiler  is  greased 
to  keep  the  steak  from  sticking,  and  the  steak  broiled  in 
it  precisely  as  described  for  broiling  over  the  coals.  The 
pan  should  be  very  hot  at  first,  the  steak  seared  on  both 
sides,  then  allowed  to  cook  more  slowly,  but  turned  every 
ten  counts  as  carefully  as  if  over  the  coals.  In  lifting  to 
turn  it  put  the  fork  in  the  extreme  end  of  the  steak,  if  a 
fork  must  be  used.  Any  fat  that  runs  out  of  the  steak  in 
cooking  should  be  poured  off  in  order  to  prevent  the 
fried  look  or  taste  that  will  result  if  the  meat  is  sauted 
in  its  own  fat. 


Beef  Loins  of  First,  Second,  and  Third  Grades.  Sirloin 
Steaks  are  Cut  from  the  Surface  Shown.  Note  the 
Differences  in  Shape,  Thickness,  Outside  Fat,  Mar- 
bling, Grain,  and  Quality  of  Meat. 


Beef  Loin,  Third  Grade. 


Beef  Loin,  Second  Grade. 


Beef  Loin,  First  Grade. 


HOW  TO  COOK  POT  ROAST  OF  BEEF     205 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  POT  ROAST  OF  BEEF 


OT  ROAST  is  one  of  the  delicious  meat  dishes 
that  can  be  made  of  the  cheaper  (not  the 
cheapest)  cuts  of  beef. 

Perhaps  it  is  not  fair  to  call  pot  roast  a 
cheap  dish,  because  the  prices  vary  so  widely 
in  different  localities,  and  the  cuts  vary  so 
much.  In  the  vicinity  of  Providence,  R.  I., 
for  example,  our  correspondents  report  prices  of  12  to 
18  cents  a  pound;  in  Philadelphia,  14  to  20  cents,  in 
New  York  City,  1 8  to  22  cents.  In  Boston  and  vicinity 
20  to  25  cents. 

In  Providence  they  sell  for  pot  roast  the  rump  ( 14  to 
16  cents),  shoulder  (12  to  14  cents),  and  bottom  round 
(16  to  18  cents),  in  Philadelphia  and  vicinity,  the  chuck 
roast  next  to  ribs  (14  cents),  shoulder  cut  (16  to  18 
cents),  and  the  ribs  (18  to  20  cents).  In  New  York 
City  and  the  West,  prices  are  higher,  and  their  range  is 
greater.  The  cuts  are  bottom  round,  top  sirloin  (which 
is  expensive,  as  a  rule),  top  round  and  brisket,  16  to  22 
cents. 

The  "  eye  "  of  the  beef  is  considered  the  epicurean  cut 
for  pot  roast.  This  is  a  triangular  piece  of  meat  taken 
from  the  hind-quarter  between  the  top  and  bottom  round 
after  the  bone  has  been  removed.  In  the  West,  pot  roast 
is  often  made  by  cutting  vertically  through  the  bottom 
and  top  round  (inside  round)  as  is  done  in  the  East. 
This  top  round  or  part  on  the  inside  of  the  hind-quarter 
is  exceptionally  good  for  pot  roast. 

In  different  localities  the  names  of  beef  cuts  are  en- 
tirely different.  In  some  places,  for  example,  the  flank 
is  cut  so  as  to  include  more  of  the  loin,  in  which  case 


206    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

the  upper  portion  is  often  called  the  flank  steak.  Some- 
times the  rump  steak,  the  inside  round,  is  called  the  rump 
plate,  or  the  rattle.  Often  the  cross-ribs  and  brisket  are 
included  together  under  the  name  of  cross-ribs;  the  fore 
part  of  the  cross-ribs  is  sometimes  called  the  shoulder 
clod,  and  the  leg  underneath  the  second  round  is  called 
the  hind  shoulder.  Often,  too,  the  socket  and  rump  to- 
gether are  called  simply  the  rump.  Consequently  one 
must  know  from  what  part  of  the  beef  the  meat  should 
be  cut  and  how  it  looks.  This  knowledge  must  be 
acquired  in  actual  marketing. 

The  requirements  for  a  successful  pot  roast  are  fresh 
meat,  slow  cooking — about  one  hour  per  pound  unless  the 
top  sirloin  or  tenderer  parts  are  employed — and  adequate 
seasoning.  Buy  from  four  to  six  pounds  of  beef  for  any 
ordinary  meal  to  be  served  for  from  three  to  five  people. 
Remove  the  meat  at  once  from  its  wrappings  to  avoid  the 
taste  of  paper.  Before  cooking  moisten  a  piece  of  cheese- 
cloth and  rub  the  beef  all  over  carefully.  Never  soak  in 
water  as  this  wastes  good  protein  material.  Remove 
any  discolored  fat. 

Pot  Roast 

Brown  two  onions,  which  have  been  thinly  sliced,  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  in  a  pot  with  a  cover ;  then 
add  the  meat  and  let  it  steam  in  the  covered  pot  with 
just  enough  water  to  keep  the  meat  from  burning.  Let 
it  cook  for  three  hours  or  more  if  necessary.  Place  on 
a  dish  and  add  to  it  a  sauce  made  of  one  can  of  tomatoes, 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  two  chopped  boiled  car- 
rots. Season  with  a  dash  of  paprika  and  salt  to  taste. 


HOW  TO  COOK  POT  ROAST  OF  BEEF     207 
Braised  Beef  with  Oysters 

Two  pounds  of  round  steak,  one  cupful  of  oysters,  one 
cupful  of  water  or  stock,  one  dash  of  mace,  one  clove, 
some  allspice,  one  rounding  teaspoonful  of  butter,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one-third  teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  a  pinch 
of  summer  savory,  and  one-half  onion,  grated.  The 
beef  must  be  in  one  solid  piece.  Mix  the  salt,  pepper, 
and  summer  savory  with  the  onion;  rub  the  beef  well 
with  it  on  both  sides ;  lay  in  the  kettle  with  the  water, 
spices,  and  half  of  the  butter,  rubbed  with  half  of  the 
flour.  Cover  closely  and  simmer  gently  until  the  beef  is 
tender,  which  will  take  from  two  to  three  hours,  or  if 
the  beef  is  tough,  possibly  a  little  more.  When  tender, 
heat  the  frying  pan  very  hot,  melt  in  it  a  part  of  the 
remaining  butter;  lay  the  beef  in  the  butter,  turn  once, 
frying  until  the  outside  is  browned.  Be  careful  not  to 
harden  it.  After  placing  the  beef  on  a  hot  platter,  fry 
the  oysters  in  the  same  pan.  Lay  the  fried  oysters  on 
the  beef  and  keep  all  warm.  Strain  the  gravy,  left  from 
stewing  the  beef,  into  the  frying  pan  (there  should  be 
about  one  pint;  add  oyster  liquor  and  water  or  soup  to 
make  up  the  quantity,  if  it  is  scant),  mix  the  rest  of  the 
flour  until  smooth  with  a  few  drops  of  cold  water;  stir 
it  into  the  boiling  gravy  and  boil  for  five  minutes ;  longer 
if  not  quite  thick  enough.  Pour  around  the  beef  and 
serve  hot. 

Left-.over  Pot  Roast 

Use  what  is  left  over  of  a  pot  roast,  running  it  through 
the  meat  chopper.  Pare  and  quarter  one  large  onion, 
pour  boiling  water  over  it  and  let  it  stand  for  about  ten 
minutes.  Then  run  it  through  the  chopper,  season  with 


208     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

pepper,  and  add  to  it  a  poultry  dressing  made  of  one 
egg,  four  rolled  crackers,  sage,  salt,  and  pepper  as  de- 
sired. Put  all  of  this  into  a  bowl  and  work  it  into  a  loaf. 
Place  it  in  an  earthen  dish  and  put  into  a  moderate  oven 
for  an  hour.  Just  before  serving,  remove  the  cover  and 
let  it  brown.  Then  take  enough  boiled  macaroni,  drain 
off  the  water,  and  pour  over  it  the  brown  gravy  that 
has  been  left  from  the  roast  and  set  it  on  the  back  of  the 
stove  to  simmer.  Heat  a  can  of  tomato  soup  and  serve 
with  macaroni  around  the  loaf. 


Epicurean  Pot  Roast 

Buy  the  "  eye  of  the  beef  "  which  weighs  about  three 
pounds.  Have  the  butcher  lard  it  with  pork  fat.  Be- 
fore cooking  remove  the  larding  and  place  it  in  a  bowl 
with  chopped  canned  pimientoes  and  some  of  the  pimiento 
juice,  a  few  bread  crumbs  or  cracker  crumbs  to  thicken, 
and  a  few  sprigs  of  chopped  parsley.  Work  all  this  to- 
gether and  press  back  into  the  vacant  larding  home  of  the 
beef.  Place  the  beef  in  a  covered  iron  pot  on  the  stove, 
accompanied  by  a  piece  of  suet,  and  sear  on  the  outside, 
but  do  not  toughen  or  harden  it.  Then  let  it  cook  with 
just  enough  soup  stock  or  water  to  keep  it  from  burning, 
over  the  slowest  fire  possible  for  at  least  three  hours. 
Turn  the  beef  every  fifteen  minutes.  Forty  minutes  be- 
fore the  meat  is  cooked,  scrape  five  or  six  potatoes  and 
put  into  the  pot  with  the  meat  to  brown.  Serve  hot  or 
cold. 


JUST  HOW  TO  CASSEROLE  MEATS      209 


JUST  HOW  TO  CASSEROLE  MEATS 

NCE  upon  a  time,  when  I  went  visiting  in  a 
small  family,  who  lived  in  a  small  apartment 
on  a  small  income,  I  learned  the  possibilities 
of  casserole  cooking,  and  came  home  so  im- 
pressed by  its  many-sidedness  that  I  adapted 
all  sorts  of  dishes  to  fit  the  earthen  utensils. 
First,  I  invested  in  an  entire  set  of  casse- 
roles from  one  large,  red  clay,  lidded  pot  with  an  enameled 
interior  to  several  sets  of  cunning,  handled  ramekins 
which  afford  plenty  of  crisped  brown  crust  on  the  small- 
est dish.  I  have  a  half-dozen  of  the  smallest  size,  which 
are  just  big  enough  to  bake  an  egg,  a  tomato,  or  a  por- 
tion of  creamed  potato  for  one  person.  There  is  an- 
other set  of  larger  ramekins,  which  I  use  for  individual 
chicken  pies,  or  small  meat  dishes.  Last  of  all  comes 
an  oval  casserole  in  which  you  can  cook  a  chicken,  a 
steak,  a  few  slices  of  veal,  or  a  neck  of  lamb.  The  oval 
dish  fits  a  chicken  better  than  the  round  one.  By  the 
way,  when  speaking  of  chicken  I  mean  a  tough,  old  fowl 
which  can  be  made  really  tender  in  the  casserole. 

While  on  the  utensil  subject,  let  me  speak  of  the  oven. 
We  use  no  fuel  but  gas  and  I  found  it  rather  expensive 
to  "  blaze  up  "  the  oven  every  time  I  wanted  to  bake  a 
few  eggs,  so  I  purchased  what  the  clerk  called  a  small 
"spinster  oven."  In  two  months  it  saved  its  price  on 
the  gas  bill.  See  to  it,  however,  that  it  will  hold  your 
largest  casserole ;  mine  did  not  and  had  to  be  exchanged. 
It  is  set  on  top  of  a  burner  and,  when  slow  heat  is  re- 
quired, I  use  nothing  under  it  but  the  tiny  gas  simmerer. 
It  can  be  pushed  to  the  back  of  the  stove  out  of  the  way 


210    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

and  when  not  in  use  I  keep  it  on  a  shelf  beside  the  kitchen 
utensils. 

Now  for  certain  "  casseroled  "  dinner  dishes  !  You  do 
not  require  tender  meat  for  casserole  cooking,  therefore 
it  is  well  to  study  cheap  cuts  of  meat.  French  and 
Italian  cooks  know  better  than  any  other  nation  the  value 
of  these  cheap  cuts.  At  any  table  d'hote  place  you  find 
very  inexpensive  meats,  which  have  been  converted  to 
goodness  by  this  method.  Certain  pieces  of  beef,  such  as 
cuts  from  the  round,  shoulder  clod,  flank,  brisket,  chuck, 
or  even  rump,  if  the  latter  is  cut  according  to  New 
York  method,  are  well  adapted  for  casserole  cooking.  In 
lamb,  choose  a  neck  or  breast,  with  no  fat,  adding  to  its 
goodness  by  seasoning  and  any  vegetables  which  help  to 
make  a  rich  gravy. 

The  first  process  before  casseroling  any  meat  is  to 
cut  it  in  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  then  flour  and 
season  it,  and  brown  in  an  iron  spider  using  the  fat 
fried  from  salt  pork  which  adds  not  a  little  to  the 
flavoring.  Put  in  the  vegetables,  make  a  gravy  with  a 
cupful  of  water  and  the  brown  juice  in  the  spider,  or 
if  you  have  stock,  use  that.  Pour  it  over  the  meat,  cover 
tight  and  set  in  a  hot  oven  till  it  comes  to  the  bubbling 
point,  then  turn  down  the  gas  and  let  it  cook  very 
slowly  for  two  or  three  hours.  Chicken  and  sliced  veal 
may  be  treated  in  the  same  fashion  and  occasionally  I 
have  transformed  a  tough  duck  or  rabbit  into  a  delicious 
dish  by  slow  casserole  cooking.  Kidneys,  also  a  beef  or 
calves'  hearts,  may  be  made  tender  and  savory  in  this 
way. 

Casserole  of  Beef 

One  recipe  for  beef  in  the  casserole  will  serve  as  a 
guide  for  cooking  any  piece  of  meat  which  is  not  tender 


JUST  HOW  TO  CASSEROLE  MEATS      211 

enough  to  be  roasted  or  broiled.  Take  two  or  three 
pounds  of  round  steak;  it  need  not  be  from  the  more 
expensive  top  of  the  round,  a  lower  cut  is  good  enough 
and  will  be  quite  tender  if  properly  cooked.  Remember, 
the  tougher  the  meat,  the  more  delicious  the  gravy,  and 
the  greater  your  achievement  in  transforming  a  cheap 
food  into  a  nutritious  and  sightly  dish.  Have  the  meat 
cut  half  way  across  the  round.  Wipe  it,  tie  into  shape, 
salt  and  pepper  it,  then  roll  in  flour,  till  thickly  coated, 
sear  in  hot  fat,  turning  every  side  of  the  cut  till  well 
browned.  Have  the  casserole  hot,  add  two  cupfuls  of 
canned  tomato,  half  an  onion,  a  sliced  carrot,  and  a  tur- 
nip, two  stalks  of  chopped  celery,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  whole  spices.  Pour  a  cupful 
of  water  in  the  spider,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen 
bouquet,  and  pour  over  the  meat.  Cover  tightly  and  set 
in  a  hot  oven.  As  soon  as  the  meat  begins  to  cook,  turn 
the  gas  low  and  cook  very  slowly  for  two  or  three  hours. 
If  you  wish  to  serve  potatoes  with  this  dish,  about  fifteen 
minutes  before  taking  the  casserole  from  the  oven,  add 
as  many  as  you  wish,  sliced  and  parboiled.  Serve  on 
a  platter  with  the  vegetables  as  a  garnish,  and  the  gravy 
in  a  boat. 

The  variations  on  casseroled  dishes  are  restricted  by 
individual  taste  and  by  what  is  in  the  pantry.  .For  in- 
stance, if  you  desire,  the  steak  may  be  onioned,  by  add- 
ing, instead  of  vegetables,  four  or  five  onions  sliced  and 
fried  light  brown  in  the  spicier.  Or  mushrooms  may  be 
used  instead  of  the  vegetables.  If  you  like  the  canned 
variety,  pour  off  the  liquor  and  add  them  to  the  gravy 
ten  minutes  before  taking  the  meat  from  the  oven. 


212          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Casseroled  Veal 

Casseroled  veal  is  delicious  treated  like  steak,  using 
instead  of  vegetables,  one  shredded  green  pepper,  half  a 
sliced  onion,  fried  light  brown,  with  a  cupful  of  hot 
steamed  rice  added  half  an  hour  before  serving.  Chicken 
is  at  its  best  when  cooked  in  this  fashion  with  mush- 
rooms and  potatoes.  A  dash  of  onion,  green  pepper, 
or  pimiento,  adds  to  the  flavor  of  chicken,  veal,  or  rabbit. 
When  lamb  chops — or  better  still — slices  of  lamb  cut 
from  across  the  leg,  are  casseroled,  make  a  bed  of  par- 
boiled vegetables  underneath,  using  diced  carrots, 
parsnip,  or  turnip. 

Put  on  top  of  these  the  browned  meat,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  finely  cut  onion  and  celery,  afterward  pour 
over  all  the  slightly  thickened  gravy. 

Beef  Tongue  en  Casserole 

Another  delicious  casseroled  dish  is  a  beef  tongue 
which  has  been  slightly  corned.  Boil  it  first,  trim  off 
unsightly  bits  and  skin.  Rub  with  flour,  to  which  has 
been  added  a  dash  of  ginger,  and  allspice.  Fry  a  few 
slices  of  onion  in  salt  pork,  then  put  the  tongue  in  the 
spider,  first  tying  it  into  shape.  Flour  it  and  fry  lightly 
on  all  sides.  Make  a  cupful  of  gravy,  adding  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  shredded  almonds,  and 
half  a  cupful  of  seeded  raisins.  Put  the  tongue  in  a 
round  casserole,  pour  the  gravy  over  it,  and  bake  half 
an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  .Untie  the  meat,  turn  out 
on  a  chop  plate,  and  serve  with  the  gravy  poured  over  it. 

Calves'  Hearts 

A  favorite  dish  in  our  house  is  casseroled  calves' 
hearts,  which  are  so  tender  and  well  flavored  they  might 


Casserole  of  Beef. 
Recipe  on  Page  210. 


Corn  Cakes  to  serve  with  Meat. 
Recipe  on  Page  336. 


Casseroled  Veal. 
Recipe  on  Page  212. 


Creamed  Asparagus  Tips. 

The  Individual  Casserole  Makes  an  Attractive  Way  of 
Serving   Left-overs. 


JUST  HOW  TO  CASSEROLE  MEATS      213 

almost  be  palmed  off  as  venison.  Fry  an  onion  with 
a  few  slices  of  fat  bacon ;  roll  four  calves'  hearts  in  flour, 
and  brown  them  all  over.  Put  in  a  hot  casserole,  add  one 
cupful  of  stock,  a  shredded  pimiento  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  mixed,  whole  spices.  Cover  the  casserole  tightly, 
then  bake  for  two  hours.  Before  serving,  garnish  the 
meat  with  crisped  bacon. 

When  clearing  up  food  remnants,  try  my  plan  of  scrap- 
ing what  can  be  used  in  this  way  into  the  little  dishes 
before  the  food  cools.  Sometimes  it  may  be  only  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  some  creamed  dish,  chicken,  fish,  oysters, 
lobster,  crab,  sweetbreads,  dried  beef,  or  a  remnant  of 
some  meat  with  gravy.  If  it  seems  too  dry,  add  a  spoon- 
ful of  milk  or  gravy.  Set  the  ramekins  in  the  refrigera- 
tor until  required.  Generally  they  need  to  be  topped  off 
with  crumbs,  or  a  film  of  grated  cheese  which  is  a  de- 
licious addition.  If  they  are  baked  in  a  pan  of  boiling 
water,  the  food  will  be  more  moist  and  the  dishes  easier 
to  wash.  The  only  food  I  do  not  ramekin  in  this  way  is 
a  baked  egg,  which  is  improved  by  a  slightly  crusted 
bottom. 

Chicken  pie  ramekins  are  a  favorite  luncheon  at  our 
house.  Into  the  larger  ramekin  I  put  bits  of  stewed 
chicken,  first  picking  it  from  the  bones.  Fill  the  dish 
three-quarters  full  with  meat  and  gravy,  then  cover  with 
a  rich  biscuit  crust  shaped  'with  a  cutter  about  the  size 
of  the  ramekin.  Cut  a  hole  in  the  top  and  bake  crisp. 
It  is  well  to  set  chicken  pies  in  the  oven  on  a  tin,  as  the 
gravy  is  liable  to  ooze  out  while  baking. 

Certain  vegetable  left-overs  may  be  reheated  in  rame- 
kins ;  potatoes,  mushrooms,  cauliflower,  and  cabbage  are 
good  when  gratined.  Asparagus  tips,  peas,  beans,  or 
onions  may  be  creamed.  Macaroni  and  spaghetti  topped 


214    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

off   with   cheese,   make   delicious   little   side   dishes    for 
dinner. 

Even  left-over  desserts  may  be  re-served  in  ramekins. 
Bread  pudding  enriched  by  fruit,  cocoanut,  chocolate,  or 
apples,  if  moistened  slightly  with  milk  or  a  spoonful  of 
cold  custard,  makes  a  very  respectable  appearance  when 
served  piping  hot  in  ramekins.  Do  not  fill  the  little  dishes 
to  the  top,  but  leave  space  for  a  garnish  of  hard  sauce 
which  adds  to  its  toothsomeness  as  well  as  to  looks. 
Cabinet,  fig,  blueberry,  tapioca,  Indian,  rice,  cracker,  or 
fruit-tapioca  as  well  as  plum  pudding  and,  indeed,  almost 
any  remnant  of  a  steamed  pudding  may  be  made  over 
successfully  by  moistening  and  reheating  in  ramekins. 
Of  course  a  "  musthave  "  with  such  a  dessert  is  a  spoon- 
ful of  hard  sauce  or  a  rich  liquid  sauce  which  enhances 
the  flavor  of  a  pudding. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS 
Planked  Beefsteak  with  Potato  Roses 

The  housewife  who  has  never  thought  of  planked 
steak  except  in  connection  with  a  restaurant  will  not 
believe  how  very  simple  it  is  to  prepare  it  until  she  has 
tried  it  in  her  own  kitchen ;  fasten  the  steak  to  the 
plank  with  galvanized  wire  tacks,  selecting  either  a 
tenderloin,  porterhouse,  or  Delmonico  cut  of  the  beef. 
Have  the  board  very  warm  and  greased  with  melted 
butter,  then  run  the  plank  under  the  gas  flame  as  you 
would  to  broil,  regulate  the  flame  until  it  is  cooked  to 
your  liking,  dot  with  bits  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and 
paprika,  and  place  for  a  moment  on  the  open  oven  door. 
Have  in  readiness  hot,  creamy  mashed  potatoes  and  as 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  215 

quickly  as  possible  pipe  them  around  the  edge  of  the 
plank  or  form  little  rosettes  at  either  end,  returning 
under  the  flame  for  a  moment  or  two  to  brown ;  serve 
garnished  with  mushrooms,  peas,  or  parsley  as  you  may 
prefer. 

Parker  House  Roast  Beef 

A  piece  of  beef  intended  for  roasting  is  carefully 
freed  of  tough  membranes.  To  prevent  the  meat  from 
becoming  dry  in  cooking,  it  is  larded  with  strips  of  salt 
pork.  Or  better  still,  slices  of  beef-suet  are  pounded 
with  a  wooden  beater  to  the  thickness  of  a  slice  of  bacon, 
and  the  roast  is  enveloped  in  these.  It  is  then  roasted  in 
a  very  hot  oven,  allowing  ten  minutes  for  every  pound, 
unless  the  roast  happens  to  be  longer  than  it  is  wide. 
In  the  latter  case,  eight  minutes  for  each  pound  will  be 
sufficient.  Serve  the  roast  with  only  its  own  juices  for 
gravy  and  with  fresh  grated  horseradish  as  a  relish.  This 
method  of  roasting  beef  is  especially  adapted  to  cooking 
in  gas-ovens. 

Swiss  Steak 

Select  a  two-pound  steak  from  the  under  or  upper 
round.  See  that  it  is  cut  one  inch  or  one  and  one-half 
inches  in  thickness.  Sear  it  on  both  sides  in  a  hot  skillet. 
Then  remove  to  a  platter  and  dust  thickly  with  flour. 
Place  in  a  casserole  with  a  small  piece  of  suet.  Mix  one 
chopped  onion  with  one  cupful  of  tomato.  Season  with 
•  salt  and  pepper  and  place  this  dressing  over  one-half 
the  meat  and  fold  the  other  half  over.  Add  a  very  little 
water,  renewing  if  necessary  to  keep  it  from  burning,  and 
cook  very  slowly  two  or  three  hours.  Thicken  the  gravy, 
if  liked,  and  serve  from  the  casserole. 


216          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Flank  Steak  with  Onions 

Place  in  a  casserole  a  flank  steak,  cut  from  the  thick 
end  of  the  flank,  one  and  one-half  inches  thick.  Cover 
with  two  inches'  depth  of  onions  sliced  and  well  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Finally  cover  with  thin  slices  of 
salt  pork  and  add  one  cupful  of  water.  Cover  closely 
and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  or  a  fireless  cooker  all  the 
afternoon.  There  will  be  little  evidence  of  the  salt  pork 
when  done.  Just  before  serving  remove  cover  and  brown. 
Serve  from  the  casserole. 

Rolled  Beefsteak 

Make  a  good  dressing  as  for  turkey  and  spread  it  over 
a  two-pound  round  steak.  Roll  it  up  and  tie  it  securely 
and  put  it  in  a  cloth  bag  and  boil  it  for  two  hours. 
About  half  an  hour  before  serving,  take  it  from  the  bag 
and  brown  it  in  the  oven.  Serve  it  with  a  good  brown 
sauce  or  with  a  tomato  sauce  with  chopped  green  peppers. 

Meat  Loaf  with  Hard  Cooked  Eggs 

Chop  one  pound  each  of  raw  veal  and  beef  with  one- 
fourth  pound  of  salt  pork.  Add  one-half  teaspoonful 
each  of  thyme  and  marjoram,  or  one  tablespoonful  of 
poultry  seasoning  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  onion 
juice,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Mix  it  with  one-half  cupful  of  bread 
crumbs  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Butter  a  mold  and 
fill  half  full  with  the  meat  mixture.  On  this  place 
lengthwise  two  whole  hard  cooked  eggs,  then  fill  with  the 
rest  of  the  mixture.  Place  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter  or  beef  shortening  on  top  and  bake  in  a  slow 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  217 

oven  one  and  one-half  hours.  When  served  the  meat  will 
have  a  round  slice  of  hard  cooked  egg  in  each  slice  of 
meat.  Parsley  may  be  used  for  a  garnish  and  the  meat 
may  be  served  hot  or  cold. 

Beef  Loaf,  Mexican  Sauce 

Add  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  one  cupful  of 
stale  bread  crumbs,  to  two  pounds  of  lean  chopped  beef. 
Moisten  with  strained  tomato  sauce,  and  shape  in  loaf 
bread  pan.  Turn  out  into  a  greased  baking  pan,  and 
bake  thirty  minutes,  basting  often  with  tomato  juice. 
Serve  on  a  hot  platter,  surrounded  with  Mexican  sauce. 

Mexican  Sauce 

Cook  a  fourth  of  a  cupful  each  of  chopped  onion,  red 
and  green  peppers,  in  a  fourth  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  or 
beef  dripping,  until  soft.  Add  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  and,  when  smooth,  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  stewed 
tomato.  Cook  ten  minutes,  then  season  with  salt. 

Hash  in  Disguise 

Mince  finely  enough  cold  corned  beef  to  fill  two  cups, 
also  an  equal  amount  of  potatoes,  one  slice  of  onion,  if 
desired,  and  half  a  green  pepper.  Mix  well  together 
and  season  highly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  if  the  meat 
is  mostly  lean,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  slightly  melted 
butter.  Rub  about  three  cupfuls  of  boiled  lima  beans 
through  the  sifter  or  colander  to  remove  the  skins. 
Season  the  pulp  with  salt  and  pepper  and  mix  with  a  well 


218     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

beaten  egg  to  bind.  Form  the  hash  as  nearly  as  possible 
into  a  roll,  and  with  the  hands  cover  the  entire  outside 
with  this  pulp.  Lift  carefully  on  to  baking  dish.  Brush 
the  outside  with  melted  butter  and  bake  until  thoroughly 
heated.  Serve  with  a  white  sauce,  to  which  may  be 
added,  if  desired,  a  little  more  of  the  minced  green  pep- 
per, or  two  or  three  drops  of  onion  juice. 

English  Cottage  Pie 

Put  the  beef  bone  of  your  roast  on  to  stew  with  cold 
water,  one  sliced  onion,  a  few  cloves,  one  sprig  of  parsley, 
and  a  bit  of  celery.  Chop  the  left-over  meat  very  fine, 
add  pepper  and  salt.  Strain  the  stock  and  with  it  make 
a  brown  sauce,  using  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  to  each  cupful  of  liquid. 
Season  with  Worcestershire  sauce  and  put  half  of  it  into 
the  bottom  of  a  baking  dish,  then  add  the  minced  meat, 
the  rest  of  the  sauce,  and  cover  with  seasoned  mashed 
potatoes,  having  potatoes  one  inch  deep.  Bake  the  pie 
until  heated  through  and  very  delicately  browned. 

Bobtee 

One  pint  of  cold  cooked  meat  chopped  fine,  one-half 
of  a  small  onion,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  cupful 
of  milk,  two  ounces  of  bread,  eight  sweet  almonds,  three 
eggs,  a  dash  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder. 
Put  the  butter  in  a  frying  pan  and  slice  in  the  onion.  Fry 
a  nice  brown.  Add  the  milk  and  bread.  Take  from  the 
fire  and  let  stand  ten  minutes.  Blanch  and  chop  almonds 
and  add  them,  the  meat,  the  curry  powder,  and  the  eggs 
well  beaten  to  the  ingredients  in  the  frying  pan.  Rub 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  219 

a  baking  dish  with  butter  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.    Put 
the  mixture  in  this  and  bake  in  the  oven  twenty  minutes. 


Beef  Olives 

Pass,  through  a  meat  chopper  several  times,  until  quite 
fine,  half  a  pound  of  raw  beef,  half  a  pound  of  cold 
cooked  meat,  and  half  a  pound  of  bread,  which  has  been 
soaked  in  water,  a  little  parsley,  and  a  piece  of  fat  salt 
pork  about  the  size  of  an  egg.  Season  this  and  add  to 
it  one  egg.  Mix  it  well  and  roll  it  into  balls.  Wrap  each 
ball  in  oiled  paper  to  hold  together  while  cooking.  Bake 
them  in  the  oven,  in  a  pan,  into  which  have  been  placed 
some  finely  chopped  carrots  and  onions,  a  couple  of 
tablespoonfuls  of  canned  tomatoes,  and  a  little  water. 
Remove  to  a  hot  platter,  and  add  a  little  flour  to  the 
gravy.  Strain  the  gravy  over  the  beef  olives. 

Mock  Duck 

Buy  a  flank  steak.  Fry  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
onion  in  one-fourth  cupful  butter  or  drippings.  Add 
one-half  cupful  soft  stale  bread  crumbs,  one-fourth  tea- 
spoonful  of  mixed  seasoning,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Spread  over  the  steak,  roll  and  tie.  Brown  the  roll  in 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  fat,  and  remove  to  a  casserole  or 
covered  dish.  To  the  fat  in  the  pan  add  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  flour,  and  brown ;  then  add  one  cupful  stock  or 
boiling  water,  and  one  cupful  strained  tomato,  season 
with  salt,  and  pepper,  pour  over  the  roll,  cover  dish,  and 
cook  slowly  until  the  meat  is  tender.  If  cooked  in  a 
casserole  it  may  be  served  in  the  same  dish.  It  may 
also  be  cooked  in  a  fireless  cooker. 


220          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Meat  Balls  with  Horseradish  Sauce 

One  pound  of  chopped  steak,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-sixth  teaspoonful  of  paprika,  one  onion.  Chop  meat 
and  onion  together,  season,  make  into  firm  balls,  sear  in 
butter  in  saucepan,  reduce  temperature,  turn  balls  often 
and  serve  rare.  Horseradish  sauce :  one-half  cupful  of 
horseradish,  one-half  cupful  of  cracker  dust,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-sixteenth  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
one-half  cupful  of  cream,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard, 
one-quarter  cupful  of  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar.  Mix  sak  and  pepper,  cracker  dust,  and 
horseradish.  Make  a  paste  of  mustard  and  cream  in  a 
spoon,  add  it  with  cream  to  the  mixture :  add  full  amount 
of  vinegar  if  horseradish  is  fresh,  and  heat  the  materials 
in  a  double  boiler.  Serve  hot. 


Roast  Leg  of  Mutton 

'While  roasting  the  mutton,  as  directed  in  the  chapter 
on  roasting  meats,  baste  very  frequently,  that  it  may  be 
moist,  then  serve  surrounded  with  a  puree  of  French 
beans,  Breton  style,  which  is  made  as  follows:  Cover 
one  pound  of  white  haricot  beans  with  hot  water,  and 
cook  until  thoroughly  done.  The  time  is  not  given,  be- 
cause it  varies  with  the  condition  of  the  beans  as  well  as 
the  hardness  of  the  water.  The  beans  should  simmer 
slowly,  and  only  enough  water  used  to  keep  them  covered. 
When  they  are  soft,  mash  them  in  their  own  liquor,  press 
the  beans  through  a  fine  sieve,  return  to  the  fire  and 
reheat,  stirring  carefully  to  prevent  burning,  and  if  the 
puree  is  too  thick,  thin  it  with  a  little  of  the  mutton 
gravy.  Heap  about  the  mutton,  or  press  through  a  pastry 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  221 

tube  in  forms.    Serve  mutton  and  beans  with  currant  or 
grape  jelly. 

Lamb  Souffle 

Pass  two  cupfuls  of  cold  lamb  through  the  meat  chop- 
per, add  a  little  minced  parsley,  a  small  cupful  of  cream 
sauce,  a  dash  of  onion  juice,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste; 
two  slices  of  minced  cooked  bacon,  and  one  beaten  egg 
yolk.  Cook  this  over  hot  water  until  the  ingredients  are 
all  heated  and  then  allow  to  cook.  Fold  in  when  quite 
cold  the  stiffly  whipped  whites  of  two  eggs,  turn  into  but- 
tered souffle  cups  that  have  been  placed  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour  in  a  rather  quick  oven. 
Serve  immediately  accompanied  by  brown  bread  sand- 
wiches. 

Lamb  Timbales 

Cook  together  for  five  minutes  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  one-half  cupful  of  soft  bread  crumbs,  and  one  cup- 
ful of  milk.  Add  one  cupful  of  finely  chopped,  cold 
cooked  lamb,  two  slightly  beaten  eggs,  one-half  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  paprika,  and  turn 
into  buttered  timbale  molds.  Bake,  having  molds  sur- 
rounded by  water,  until  the  mixture  is  firm.  Serve  with 
a  cream  sauce  to  which  have  been  added  two  canned 
pimientos  which  have  been  rubbed  through  a  sieve. 


Veal  with  Sour  Cream  Gravy 

Prepare  a  loin  or  shoulder  of  veal  for  roasting,  cut 
strips  of  fat  salt  pork  and  lay  over  the  meat  and  in  the 


222    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

bottom  of  the  pan.  Baste  frequently  with  thick  sour 
cream  and,  after  the  first  half-hour,  cook  slowly  until 
meat  is  done.  Make  a  gravy  as  usual,  allowing  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  fat  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  to 
each  cupful,  or  half-pint,  of  liquid.  The  cream  gives  the 
veal  a  delicious  flavor,  and  the  meat  is  very  white  when 
treated  in  this  way. 

Bavarian  Veal  Chops 

Place  in  a  stew  pan  six  loin  chops,  with  a  sliced  onion, 
six  slices  of  carrot,  two  cloves,  and  a  few  peppercorns, 
one  ounce  of  butter,  and  enough  boiling  water  to  cover. 
Cook  slowly  until  meat  is  tender.  Drain,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  dip  in  egg,  roll  in  flour,  and  saute  in 
pork-fat  until  brown.  Serve  on  platter  with  boiled 
macaroni  mixed  with  soubise  sauce.  For  the  sauce,  use 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
one  cupful  of  the  water  in  which  chops  were  cooked,  salt, 
pepper,  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  When  thickened,  add 
one-half  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  and  a  puree  of  boiled 
onions,  made  by  cooking  two  cupfuls  of  sliced  onions, 
until  soft,  then  forcing  them  through  a  puree  sieve. 

Veal  Cutlet,  Baked 

Remove  bone  and  carefully  trim  a  cutlet  of  veal. 
Place  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  on  a  thinly  sliced  onion. 
Add  one  cupful  of  stewed  and  strained  tomato,  one  table- 
spoonful  each  of  minced  green  pepper  and  parsley,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of 
paprika,  and  a  few  grains  pepper.  Bake  half  an  hour. 
Remove  to  a  hot  platter,  and  pour  over  it  the  sauce 
from  pan. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  223 

Veal  Dandy 

Season  a  pan  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  little 
sage  (use  but  a  little  to  give  the  mere  suggestion  of  its 
flavor).  Then  place  in  the  pan  tiny  strips  of  thinly  cut 
fat  salt  pork,  then  about  a  pound  and  a  half  of  veal 
steak,  which  has  been  cut  thick  and  from  which  all 
outer  edge  and  bone  have  been  removed ;  then  season, 
and  add  some  squares  of  thinly  cut  bread;  season  again 
and  place  more  strips  of  pork — (a  half-pound  of  pork 
is  enough) — add  a  good  inch  of  water;  start  cooking  in 
the  hot  oven  as  usual,  then  turn  the  fire  low.  If  this  is 
rightly  cooked  the  veal  should  be  a  deep  rose  color,  very 
tender,  and  no  trace  of  the  pork  remaining. 


Veal  Paprika 

Take  two  pounds  of  loin  of  veal.  Have  the  veal  cut 
in  good-sized  pieces.  "Put  a  tablespoonful  of  fat  or  drip- 
pings into  the  pot.  Add  two  onions  sliced,  make  red 
with  paprika.  Let  this  cook  until  the  onions  are  well 
clone  but  not  brown.  Add  the  meat,  which  is  well 
sprinkled  with  salt.  Cover  and  let  them  brown  thor- 
oughly. Turn  occasionally  so  it  will  brown  on  all  sides. 
Let  it  simmer  for  a  while  in  its  own  juice,  then  just  cover 
it  with  boiling  water  and  let  it  simmer  for  one  hour. 
This  is  very  good  served  with  boiled  spaghetti  which  has 
been  seasoned  with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt.  • 


Creamed  Veal 

Cut  enough  cold  veal  into  fine  pieces'  to  fill  two  cups. 
Season  to  taste  with  pepper,  salt,  mace,  and  add  a  little 


224    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

parsley,  according  to  one's  liking;  pour  over  this  one 
cupful  of  milk,  put  this  on  the  stove  and  let  it  come  to 
a  boil,  and  then  stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  which 
have  been  previously  rubbed  smooth  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter.  Serve  on  toast. 


Veal  Loaf 

Mix  well  together  three  pounds  of  finely  chopped  veal 
(the  neck  or  fore-quarter  veal  is  very  good)  with  one- 
half  pound  of  salt  pork.  Add  four  common  crackers 
(one-half  cupful),  rolled  fine,  one  teaspoonful  of  black 
pepper  with  one-half  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt.  Add  three  beaten  eggs  and  make  into 
a  loaf.  Bake  one  hour  and  a  half  or  two  hours  in  a  slow 
oven.  Baste  with  butter.  Put  on  the  outside  of  the  loaf 
a  small  quantity  of  the  rolled  cracker.  This  loaf  may 
be  made  with  only  one  egg,  using  one-fourth  cupful  of 
milk. 

Spare-Ribs  Stuffed  with  Apples  and  Prunes 

Sew  together  several  pounds  of  fresh  spare-ribs,  so 
that  they  form  a  pocket,  then  stuff  with  the  following: 
One  pound  of  prunes  boiled  for  five  minutes  (pour  the 
juice  of  the  prunes  into  a  bowl).  Peel  and  cut  a  quart 
of  sour  apples  into  small  pieces,  then  mix  them  with  the 
prunes,  adding  to  this  mixture,  sugar,  a  little  cinnamon, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  cracker  dust.  Put  this  stuffing 
into  the  spare-ribs  and  sew  the  pocket  together.  Put 
juice  of  the  prunes  into  pan  in  which  the  spare-ribs  are 
to  be  roasted,  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  one  hour. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  225 

Parisian  Pork  Tenderloins  in  the  Chafing  Dish 

Remove  the  small  rounds  of  meat  from  the  under  part 
of  the  pork  ribs  and  place  in  the  chafing  dish,  together 
with  a  cupful  of  the  brown  gravy,  a  few  drops  of 
tabasco  sauce,  half  a  cupful  of  tomato  catsup,  a  pinch 
each  'of  salt  and  celery  salt,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter ; 
simmer  only  until  the  meat  is  thoroughly  heated,  then 
place  over  the  hot  water  pan,  stirring  in  a  cupful  of 
cooked  macaroni  that  has  been  cut  in  small  pieces ;  serve 
very  hot  on  squares  of  fried  hominy,  garnished  with  crisp 
parsley. 

Philadelphia  Scrapple 

Cleanse  and  scrape  well  a  pig's  head  and  feet  and  boil 
until  tender,  putting  on  the  fire  in  cold  water  with  some 
onions,  carrots,  two  of  each,  some  pieces  of  turnip,  salt, 
and  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  paprika.  When  tender  re- 
move from  the  liquor  and  put  the  meat  through  a  meat 
chopper;  extract  all  grease  and  boil  again  in  some  good 
rich  stock.  To  each  three  pounds  of  meat,  add  one  pound 
of  Indian  meal  and  one  pound  of  rolled  oats.  Cook  in 
double  boiler  for  an  hour.  It  should  be  very  thick  like 
porridge.  Sugar  added  to  the  scrapple  improves  it. 
Wet  molds  or  square  bread  tins  in  cold  water,  fill  with 
scrapple,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When  wanted  for  use, 
slice,  dip  in  crumbs,  and  fry  in  butter. 


Kentucky  Ham 

Select  a  small  ham.     Soak  over  night  if  very  salt. 
Then  wash  thoroughly  in  cold  water,  and  cover  with  a 


226    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

layer  of  baking  soda,  which  is  scrubbed  into  the  ham 
with  a  brush.  Rinse  off  and  trim  neatly  and  place  in 
a  bake  pan.  Mix  the  seasoning,  consisting  of  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  celery  seed,  and 
pepper.  Rub  the  whole  into  the  surface  of  the  ham  and 
cover  with  a  very  thick  layer  of  onion,  minced  fine. 
Cover  the  wtmle  with  a  layer  of  pastry  made  by  mixing 
smoothly  a  cup  of  sifted  flour  in  half  a  cup  of  water. 
This  pastry  is  rolled  out  thin  and  wound  about  the  ham 
closely.  The  pan  is  then  filled  with  boiled  cider  and 
placed  in  the  oven  to  bake  slowly  and  steadily  for  four 
hours  with  frequent  bastings  from  the  cider.  Serve  with 
candied  sweet  potatoes,  baked  squash,  and  spinach  with 
a  relish  of  apple  sauce. 


Southern  Ham 

Wash  and  soak  for  two  hours  two  large  slices  of  lean 
ham,  cut  at  least  an  inch  thick.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a 
casserole;  then  add  pepper  and  a  sprinkling  of  brown 
sugar;  then  place  upon  this  the  ham,  add  more  bits  of 
butter,  and  more  sprinklings  of  the  brown  sugar,  with 
water  the  depth  of  the  ham.  Cover  and  cook  in  a 
casserole,  in  a  slow  oven  all  the  afternoon. 


Baked  Sliced  Ham 

Place  in  a  baking  pan  a  slice  of  ham  cut  one  inch 
thick.  If  the  ham  is  not  "mild  cured"  it  should  be 
soaked  in  cold  water  an  hour.  Sprinkle  on  top  a  little 
powdered  mustard,  brown  sugar,  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar.  Add  a  little  water,  bake  about  forty  minutes, 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  227 

basting  often.     Add  a  little  boiling  water  to  the  gravy 
but  do  not  thicken. 

Baked  Ham 

Choose  a  small,  thin-skinned  ham,  and  scrub  well.  Put 
into  a  kettle,  cover  with  cold  water  to  which  is  added 
one  cup  molasses.  Bring  to  a  boil,  and  simmer  until 
ham  is  tender.  Remove  from  water,  and  place  in  a 
baking  pan.  Trim  off  rind  and  some  fat,  leaving  a  layer 
half  an  inch  thick.  Stick  full  of  cloves,  cover  thickly 
with  dark  brown  sugar,  moistened  with  one  cup  sherry, 
white  wine  or  cider.  Place  in  a  moderate  oven,  and 
bake  slowly  for  two  hours.  It  is  better  to  cook  the  ham 
longer  in  the  oven,  and  less  time  in  the  water,  as  it  is 
less  likely  to  drop  apart,  in  which  case  it  is  extremely 
difficult  to  carve. 

Ham  Timbales 

To  one  cupful  of  lean  chopped  ham  add  half  a  cupful 
of  stale  bread  crumbs  and  one  cupful  of  cream  sauce 
made  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one-fourth  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne ;  add  a  slightly  beaten 
egg  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Pour 
into  buttered  timbale  molds  or  small  cups  and  bake  in 
a  pan  of  boiling  water  for  twenty  minutes.  Arrange  on 
a  platter  or  on  individual  dishes  and  surround  with 
drawn  butter  sauce.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

Noodle  and  Ham  Pudding 

One-pound  package  of  medium-sized  noodles,  one  cup- 
ful of  cream  or  milk,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  cold 
boiled  ham.  and  a  dash  of  pepper  or  paprika.  Boil  the 


228    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

noodles  about  ten  minutes  in  water,  add  a  scant  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  then  remove  the  noodles  from  boiling 
water,  put  into  a  colander,  and  pour  cold  water  over  them. 
(This  prevents  the  noodles  from  sticking  together.) 
Put  a  layer  of  noodles  in  a  baking  dish  and  then  sprinkle 
ham  over  the  noodles,  repeat  this,  leaving  a  layer  of 
noodles  as  the  final  layer,  pour  over  this  the  milk  or 
cream.  Bake  in  the  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 

Ham  Trifle 

Chop  one  cupful  of  cold  boiled  ham,  three  hard  cooked 
eggs,  and  five  soda  crackers.  Heat  two  cupfuls  of  milk, 
add  to  this  a  good-sized  piece  of  butter,  and  thicken  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  flour  and  one  teaspoon ful  of  dry 
mustard.  Stir  into  this  the  chopped  ham,  eggs,  and 
crackers,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley. 
Put  in  a  baking  dish  and  bake  for  half  an  hour. 

Sausage  Bundles 

Roll  out  plain  paste  in  six-inch  squares,  rather  thin. 
Cut  Frankfurt  sausages  in  thin  slices,  rejecting  the  skin, 
and  lay  the  slices  in  two  rows  in  the  centers  of  the  pieces 
of  paste;  double,  pinch  ends  together,  and  fold  as  you 
would  do  up  a  bundle,  wetting  the  edges  to  make  them 
stick ;  then  place  them  on  ice  until  ready  to  bake.  Bake 
them  in  a  hot  oven  fifteen  minutes,  and  serve  hot  with 
French  or  German  mustard.  This  is  a  popular  dish  for 
Sunday  night  supper,  especially  with  men. 

Liver  with  Bechamel  Sauce 

Cook  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  a  dash  of  nutmeg 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  229 

and  cayenne,  and  one-half  cupful  of  stock.  When  boil- 
ing add  one  teaspoonful  each  of  Worcestershire  sauce 
and  lemon  juice,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  mixed 
with  one  yolk  and  one  cupful  of  cold,  cooked  liver  cut 
in  dice.  Serve  in  ramekins. 

German  Luncheon  Dish 

Cook  spinach  in  the  usual  way,  and  heap  on  the  middle 
of  a  platter.  Garnish  with  slices  of  hard  cooked  eggs, 
and  place  round  all,  some  thin  slices  of  broiled  bacon. 

Deviled  Kidney 

Soak  the  kidney  in  cold  water  and  cook  in  soup 
stock  to  which  have  been  added  a  minced  onion,  a  bay 
leaf,  a  stalk  of  chopped  celery,  and  diced  carrot.  When 
tender  drain  and  chop  as  finely  as  possible  (rejecting  any 
skin  or  strings).  Season  highly  with  salt  and  paprika, 
and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  bread  crumbs  and 
a  small  cupful  of  tomato  catsup ;  then  turn  into  shallow 
baking  shells,  and  after  sprinkling  with  browned  bread 
crumbs,  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes;  serve 
in  the  shells  garnished  with  parsley. 

Masked  Sweetbreads 

Blanch  one  pound  of  sweetbreads,  remove  pipes  and 
skin,  and  put  through  the  meat  grinder  with  two  slices 
of  salt  pork.  Form  into  cutlet  shapes,  and  pin  them 
tight  in  cheesecloth  to  keep  their  shapes.  Place  on  ice. 
After  an  hour  or.  two  saute  them  on  one  side  only  in  a 
little  butter  for  five  minutes  and  place  them  in  a  buttered 


230    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

baking-pan,  cooked  side  up.  When  cool,  cover  them 
with  a  masking  preparation  made  as  follows :  Cover  a 
small  peeled  onion  with  cold  water,  place  on  the  fire  and 
boil  for  five  minutes,  drain  dry,  and  cut  in  slices.  Saute 
the  slices  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  until  slightly 
brown,  add  one  cupful  of  stock,  and  cook  until  tender; 
press  through  a  sieve  with  the  stock.  Melt  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  add  a  third  of  a  cupful  of  flour,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  paprika.  Add  enough 
cream  to  the  onion  and  stock  mixture  to  make  one  and 
a  third  cupfuls  and  add  this  to  the  mixture  in  saute  pan ; 
when  boiling,  add  one  large  egg,  or  one  egg  and  an  extra 
yolk,  cook  for  a  moment,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add 
a  dash  of  cayenne  and  nutmeg.  Cover  the  sweetbreads 
about  a  fourth  of  an  inch.  Cool,  then  cover  with  soft 
bread  crumbs  rolled  in  melted  butter ;  place  a  whole 
mushroom,  partly  cooked  in  butter,  on  each  cutlet,  and 
garnish  with  slices  or  stripes  of  truffle  or  red  and  green 
pepper.  Bake  ten  minutes.  Serve  with  a  brown  mush- 
room sauce  around  the  edge  of  platter,  with  a  mound  of 
fried  eggplant  straws  in  the  center. 

Apples  Stuffed  for  Roast  Pork 

Add  a  bay  leaf,  one  teaspoonful  of  minced  onion,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper  to  two 
and  a  half  cupfuls  of  white  stock;  simmer  for  twenty 
minutes  and  strain.  Pare  and  core  ten  tart  apples. 
Place  in  the  bottom  of  agate  pan ;  pour  the  strained  stock 
over  them  and  simmer  until  they  can  be  pierced  with  a 
fork;  carefully  remove  them  from  the  stock,  and  set 
aside  to  cool.  Blanch  two  cupfuls  of  chestnut  meats, 
slice,  cover  with  the  stock,  add  four  teaspoonfuls  of  cur- 
rant jelly,  and  simmer  until  tender.  If  the  meats  are  too 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS  231 

moist,  drain.  Fill  the  center  of  the  apples  with  the 
chestnut  mixture  and  serve  with  roast  pork.  This  recipe 
will  serve  a  dozen  persons. 

Currant  Mint  Sauce 

Beat  one-half  tumbler  of  currant  jelly  with  a  fork 
until  quite  smooth ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
fresh  mint,  the  grated  rind  of  half  an  orange,  one-fourth 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne.  Serve 
with  lamb  chops  or  a  crown  of  lamb. 

Cranberry  Relish 

Two  quarts  of  cranberries,  three  and  a  half  pounds  of 
white  sugar,  one  pound  of  seeded  raisins,  the  rind  of 
two  oranges,  chopped  very  fine,  one  cup  of  vinegar,  juice 
of  two  oranges,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  ginger,  cloves, 
and  cinnamon.  Cook  all  to  a  marmalade,  and  put  in  jars. 
This  is  excellent  with  cold  meats,,  especially  chicken,  tur- 
key, and  game. 

Horseradish  Sauce 

Beat  one  cupful  of  cream  until  stiff,  then  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  fresh,  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  evapo- 
rated, horseradish  root,  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  teaspoonful 
of  paprika.  Good  with  roast  beef,  or  veal,  or  on  toma- 
toes to  be  served  as  a  salad. 

Braised  Tongue 

A  fresh  tongue  is  necessary  for  braising.  Put  tongue 
in  kettle,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  slowly  two 


232    THE  PURE  POOD  COOK  BOOK 

hours.  Take  tongue  from  water,  drench  with  cold  water, 
remove  skin  and  membranes ;  fasten  the  tip  around  against 
the  thick  part,  tying  or  skewering  firmly.  Fry  two  onions, 
one  turnip,  and  one  carrot,  all  cut  fine, '  in  butter  until 
brown.  Remove  from  the  pan  and  set  aside.  Flour  the 
tongue  all  over  and  put  into  a  hot  pan  with  the  butter. 
Turn  it  on  all  sides  until  browned  slightly.  Put  the 
tongue,  the  fried  vegetables,  a  small  piece  of  stick  cinna- 
mon, one  clove,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  into  a 
casserole.  Add  one  quart  of  the  liquor  in  which  the 
tongue  was  boiled.  Close  the  lid  as  tightly  as  possible  to 
keep  in  the  steam.  Place  in  the  oven.  After  one  and 
one-half  hours  open,  turn  the  tongue,  and  add  the  juice 
of  one  lemon.  Close  as  before  and  leave  one-half  an 
hour  longer  in  the  oven.  Now  put  the  tongue  on  a  hot 
dish,  and  set  it  over  hot  water  while  the  gravy  is  being 
boiled  down  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  If  it  is  not 
quite  thick  enough,  mix  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cornstarch 
with  a  little  cold  water,  stir  it  into  the  boiling  gravy,  and 
boil  two  or  three  minutes.  Strain  some  of  the  gravy  over 
the  tongue  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 
Tongue  braised  in  this  manner  may  be  served  surrounded 
by  a  soft  puree  of  potatoes  well  seasoned  with  plenty  of 
butter  or  rich  hot  cream,  salt,  and  pepper.  Serve  all  the 
sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  MEATS      233 


^*-< 


234      MORE  W 'AYS  OF  COOKING  MEATS 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  MEATS      235 


236      MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  MEATS 


DESSERTS 

By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

HIS  is  a  class  of  food  products  which  appeal 
particularly  to  the  taste  and  are  not  of  any 
particular  value  from  the  nutritional  point  of 
view.  I  do  not  say  this  because  I  think 
desserts  have  no  food  value.  They  are 
usually  made  largely  of  sugar,  which  has  a 
very  considerable  food  value,  but  that  is  not 
the  question  at  this  point.  When  the  dessert  is  served, 
as  a  rule  the  man  who  sits  at  the  table  has  already  eaten 
all  he  ought  to.  The  dessert  simply  comes  then  as  a 
burden  to  digestion.  I  do  not  mean  at  all  to  imply  that 
the  recipes  that  follow  are  of  no  value.  This  is  not  my 
meaning  at  all.  The  thing  I  wish  to  impress  upon  the 
reader  is  that  desserts  pander  to  the  taste  rather  than 
minister  to  the  needs  of  the  body.  Desserts,  therefore, 
should  be  delicate  and  not  served  in  very  large  quantities, 
and  the  diner  who  has  his  own  welfare  at  heart  will 
save  a  place  for  them.  The  sugars  which  enter  so  largely 
into  the  desserts  are  food  products,  but  minister  only 
to  the  production  of  heat  and  energy  and  the  formation 
of  fat.  The  deposition  of  adipose  matter  is  the  Nemesis 
which  follows  the  over-eater. 


237 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS 


HE  first  fresh-apple  pie  of  the  late  summer 
has  a  flavor  quite  unlike  those  made  with 
winter  apples,  and  its  appearance  on  the  table 
is  hailed  with  gustatory  delight  by  those  who 
are  familiar  with  its  delicious  qualities.  The 
excessive  use  of  pastry,  common  in  the  old 
times,  is  not  recommended ;  but  a  pie  made 
of  light  flaky  paste,  delicately  flavored  fruit,  well  baked 
and  eaten  while  fresh,  may  occasionally  help  to  complete 
a  dinner  when  the  first  course  is  somewhat  light.  A  pie 
like  those  often  served  at  grandmother's  may  be  made 
this  way: 

Apple  Pie 

Line  a  pie  plate  with  pastry  made  in  these  proportions 
for  one  pie.  One-fourth  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
rounded  tablespoonful  of  lard  rubbed  into  one  heaped 
cupful  of  sifted  pastry  flour.  Wet  with  cold  water  to  a 
stiff  dough.  Pat  with  rolling  pin  into  an  oblong,  half 
inch  thick,  spread  with  one  rounded  tablespoonful  of 
cold,  hard  butter  in  little  dabs,  dredge  with  flour,  roll 
over,  then  pat  down  flat  and  roll,  into  a  long  narrow 
piece;  roll  over  like  a  jelly  roll  and  divide  in  middle. 
Stand  one-half  on  end,  pat  flat,  and  roll  out  to  fit  the 
plate,  a  trifle  large  to  allow  for  shrinking. 

Fill  the  plate  with  pared  and  sliced  tart  apples.  Roll 

239 


240    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

the  other  crust  and  lay  it  on  lightly  without  pressing 
edges  together.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven,  and  when  brown 
and  the  apples  are  soft,  run  a  knife  between  the  crusts. 
Remove  the  top  carefully  to  another  plate.  To  the  hot 
apple  add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  and  a  mixture  of  half 
a  cupful  of  sugar  (or  more  if  liked  very  sweet),  a  slight 
dash  of  salt,  and  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  any  spice 
preferred,  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  or  allspice,  or  grated  lemon 
rind.  Mix  carefully  till  butter  and  sugar  melt,  cover  with 
top  crust  and  serve.  Or,  take  out  part  of  the  seasoned 
apple,  lay  the  upper  crust  with  top  down  on  the  pie,  and 
cover  with  the  remaining  apple.  Serve  while  warm. 

For  festive  occasions  cover  the  top  with  whipped 
sweetened  cream;  or  with  a  meringue  of  two  egg  whites, 
and  two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  fla- 
vored with  lemon  juice,  and  brown  it  slightly. 

Mincemeat  Without  Meat 

Chop  together  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes  and  one 
dozen  large  apples.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  ground 
cloves,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  allspice,  one  grated  nutmeg,  five  pounds  of  brown 
sugar,  two  pounds  of  raisins,  one  pound  of  finely 
shredded  citron.  Chop  two  oranges  and  two  lemons, 
and  add  with  one  cupful  of  vinegar  and  any  jelly  or  fruit 
juice  that  you  may  have.  Cook  all  together  until  toma- 
toes are  tender.  Then  add  brandy  when  making  into 
pies. 

Mock  Cherry  Pie 

Chop  one  quart  of  cranberries,  add  two  and  one-half 
cupfuls  of  sugar,  or  if  preferred,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        241 

and  one-half  cupful  of  molasses.  Then  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  with  one-half  cupful  of  water,  or  one 
tablespoonful  of  cornstarch,  wet  with  a  little  cold  water 
to  which  one  cupful  of  boiling  water  is  added.  If  liked, 
add  one  cupful  of  chopped  raisins.  This  makes  two 
pies. 

Lemon  Sticks 

Make  a  good  paste,  using  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of 
flour,  sifted  with  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-* 
fourth  cupful  of  lard  and  butter,  or  other  shortening,  and 
ice-water  enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Roll  out  one- 
fourth  inch  thick,  cut  into  strips  one  inch  wide  by  four 
inches  long.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven.  When  cool,  split 
and  fill  with  lemon  filling.  Cook  together  one-half  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  juice  and  rind 
of  one  lemon,  one  egg,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
until  thick.  Cool  and  use  to  fill  the  pastry. 

Transparent  Pie 

Line  a  pie-plate  with  a  good  pastry,  and  fill  with  the 
following  mixture :  Cream  together  one  cupful  of  butter 
and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar;  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  four 
eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  jelly.  Bake  until  firm ; 
cover  with  a  meringue  made  by  beating  the  whites  of  eggs 
with  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  in 
a  slow  oven. 

Thanksgiving  Brambles 

To  one  cupful  raisins,  seeded  and  chopped  fine,  ado! 
one  lemon:  juice,  pulp,  and  grated  rind;  one-half  cupful 


242    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

of  sugar,  one  egg,  one  tablespoonful  of  cracker-dust  with 
one-half  cup  of  chopped  nutmeats.  Put  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  the  mixture  on  a  round,  cut  from  plain  pastry  and 
three  inches  in  diameter.  Cover  with  another  round, 
pinch  edges  together  tightly,  prick  the  top  crust  with  a 
fork,  and  bake.  If  the  fruit  mixture  seems  very  stiff, 
add  a  little  water. 

Pumpkin  Pie 

Into  a  quart  of  stewed,  strained,  and  cooled  pumpkin 
stir  a  quart  of  rich  milk,  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
cinnamon,  and  nutmeg  to  taste,  and,  when  these  are  well 
mixed,  six  eggs  beaten  light.  Beat  all  together  for  a 
minute,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  deep  pie-plates  lined 
with  the  very  best  pastry  you  can  make.  Bake  in  a  mod- 
erately hot  oven.  When  the  custard  is  "  set,"  lay  paper 
over  the  pies  until  five  minutes  before  taking  them  out 
of  the  oven.  Then  set  upon  the  upper  grating  of  the 
oven  to  brown.  Eat  cold,  with  American  cheese. 

» 

Date  Pie 

Wash  one  pound  of  dates  and  soak  over  night,  stew 
in  same  water  till  soft  enough  to  rub  through  colander. 
Add  one  cupful  of  sour  cream,  two  level  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  yolks  of  three*  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinna- 
mon, one  of  nutmeg,  and  a  little  salt.  Bake  in  one  crust. 
Make  a  meringue  of  whites  of  eggs,  if  liked. 

Butterscotch  Pie 

One  cupful  of  sour  cream,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
one  of  flour,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  cupful  of  brown 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        243 

sugar,  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  a  little  salt.  Beat  to- 
gether, pour  into  one  crust,  and  bake.  Make  meringue 
of  whites  of  eggs  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Brown  in  very  slow  oven. 

Cream  Pie 

Mix  one-half  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  one-half 
cupful  of  flour,  little  salt.  Spread  over  lower  crust,  then 
turn  on  one  cupful  of  sour  cream,  stirring  very  lightly, 
not  to  break  crust.  Grate  nutmeg  over  top,  and  bake  in 
quick  oven. 

Sour  Cream  Pie,  No.  2 

One  cupful  sour  cream,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  egg, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  salt,  cinnamon,  and  cloves  to  taste.  Beat,  and 
bake  between  two  crusts. 

Pineapple  Turnovers 

Roll  plain  paste  thin  and  cut  into  four-inch  squares. 
Upon  each  place  one  rounding  tablespoonful  of  fresh 
sweetened  pineapple  drained  from  the  syrup  or  pineapple 
preserve.  Moisten  edges  of  two  sides  with  water  or  milk 
and  fold  into  a  triangle,  pinching  the  edges  together. 
Bake,  or  fry,  in  deep  fat.  Serve  warm,  sprinkled  with 
powdered  sugar. 

Steamed  Date  Pudding 

Cream  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  add  one  cupful  of 
molasses,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one  pound  of  stoned  and 


244    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

chopped  dates,  mixed  with  two  cupfuls  of  stale  bread 
crumbs,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
each  of  clove,  salt,  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg,  mixed  and 
sifted  with  one  cupful  of  entire  wheat  flour.  Turn  into 
a  buttered  pudding-tin  and  steam'  three  hours.  Serve 
with  creamy  sauce. 

Brown  Betty 

To  .one  quart  of  milk,  one-fourth  cupful  of  Indian  meal 
scalded  in  the  milk,  add  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one-half 
cupful  of  molasses,  a  dash  of  salt  and  ginger,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  raisins, 
one-half  cupful  of  nuts.  Put  in  oven  and  bake  slowly 
about  three  and  one-half  hours. 

Rhubarb  Pudding 

Sift  together  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  a  pinch  of  salt, 
spices  as  desired,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder, 
and  half  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Stir  in  one  egg  beaten  with 
half  a  cupful  of  milk  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter; 
add  two  cupfuls  of  rhubarb  cut  into  small  pieces  (use  the 
pink  part  with  the  skin  left  on),  bake  twenty  minutes, 
and  serve  with  a  sauce. 

Bread  Pudding 

Pour  one  quart  of  hot  milk  over  half  of  an  ordinary 
loaf  of  stale  bread,  mash  this  mixture  until  smooth  and 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  When  this  is  cool,  add 
three  well-beaten  eggs,  one-half  cupful  of  white  sugar, 
a  little  nutmeg,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  one  cup- 


Ivory  Cream. 
Recipe  on  Page  252. 


Grandmother's  Strawberry  Shortcake. 
Recipe  on  Page  245. 


Gooseberry  Amber. 
Recipe  on  Page  260. 


Steamed  Rice,  Molded  and  Garnished  with  Cherries. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        245 

ful  of  mixed  citron,  seeded  raisins,  and  currants.  Bake 
or  boil  this  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve  hot 
with  hard  sauce. 


Grandmother's  Strawberry  Shortcake 

Stem  two  boxes  of  strawberries.  Reserve  one  cupful 
of  the  nicest  berries  for  the  top  of  the  shortcake.  Mash 
the  remainder,  add  a  half-cupful  of  sugar,  and  stir  a 
minute  to  dissolve  the  sugar.  Sift  one  pint  of  flour  with 
a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt  and  two  level'teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder.  Rub  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and 
add  enough  milk  just  to  moisten.  Knead  quickly,  and 
roll  out  in  the  shape  of  the  pan  in  which  it  is  to  be 
baked.  Brush  with  milk,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  Pull  it  apart  without  cutting — you 
can  do  this  easily  with  two  forks.  Remove  a  portion  of 
the  crumb  from  the  center,  butter  both  pieces,  place  the 
bottom  on  the  serving-dish,  pour  over  the  mashed  berries, 
put  on  the  top,  garnish  it  neatly  with  the  whole  berries, 
dust  thickly  with  powdered  sugar,  and  send  to  the  table 
with  a  pitcher  of  cream. 


Bunuelos 

Mix  together  one  cupful  of  flour,  one  and  one-half 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Beat  one  egg  slightly,  add  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of 
milk,  and  combine  with  dry  materials.  Add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  olive  oil.  Fry  on  a  rosette  iron  in  deep  fat, 
and  serve  with  an 


246          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  &OOK 
Almond  Sauce 

Grind  two  ounces  of  blanched  almonds,  and  cook  for 
ten  minutes  with  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  milk  and  one 
cupful  of  sugar.  Add  the  yolk  of  egg  after  removing 
from  the  fire. 

Suet  Pudding 

One  teacupful  of  New  Orleans  molasses,  one  of  sweet 
milk,  one  of  chopped  suet,  three  and  one-half  cupfuls  of 
flour,  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  raisins,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  soda,  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon, 
a  little  salt.  Steam  three  hours. 

Sauce  for  Suet  Pudding 

One-half  cupful  of  buttjer  creamed  with  one  cupful 
of  sugar,  then  add  five  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water, 
one  at  a  time.  Flavor. 

Caramel  Bread  Pudding 

Scald  one  quart  of  milk,  add  one-half  cupful  of  sugar 
which  has  been  caramelized.  When  caramel  is  dissolved, 
pour  the  milk  over  two  cups  of  stale  bread  crumbs.  Add 
two  eggs  slightly  beaten,  one-fourth  cupful  of  sugar,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Pour  into  a  buttered  pudding  dish,  and  bake  slowly  one 
hour.  Serve  with  cream,  plain  or  beaten. 

Apple  and  Bread  Crumb  Pudding 

Spread  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered  baking  dish  with 
a  thick  layer  of  bread  crumbs  well  browned.  Add  lumps 


247 

of  butter,  then  a  layer  of  well-sweetened  apple-sauce,  a 
sprinkling  of  salt  and  nutmeg,  more  lumps  of  butter, 
layer  of  crumbs,  alternating  with  layers  of  apple-sauce 
until  the  dish  is  filled.  Have  the  top  layer  of  crumbs  and 
butter.  Bake  covered  for  half  an  hour,  then  remove 
cover  and  brown.  To  elaborate  add  raisins,  currants,  and 
nuts.  Serve  hot  with  hard  sauce. 

Apricot   Dumplings 

Drain  stewed  apricots  as  dry  as  possible,  and  enclose 
two  or  three  pieces  of  apricots  in  a  round  of  rich  biscuit 
dough  rolled  rather  thin.  Place  the  dumplings  in  a  deep 
basin,  sprinkle  generously  with  sugar,  nearly  cover  with 
boiling  juice,  dot  with  butter,  and  bake  in  a  rather  quick 
oven.  Peach  recipes  can  be  adapted  to  dried  apricots 
with  delicious  results. 

Brown  Sugar  Pudding 

Two  cupfuls  of  light  brown  sugar;  two  cupfuls  of 
boiling  water,  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  cornstarch, 
one-half  cupful  of  walnut  meats  broken  into  small  pieces. 
Bring  sugar  and  water  to  a  boil.  Thicken  with  corn- 
starch  which  has  first  been  moistened  in  a  little  cold 
water.  Cook  in  a  double  boiler  until  it  is  thick.  Just 
before  taking  from  the  fire  add  the  nut  meats.  Serve 
cold  with  whipped  cream. 


Baked  Indian  and  Apple  Pudding 

Stir    half    a    cupful    of    yellow    cornmeal    into    one 
quart   of   scalded   milk.      Cook   in   a   double   boiler  for 


248    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

thirty  minutes,  then  add  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and 
ginger,  and  half  a  cupful  of  molasses.  Pour  into  a  but- 
tered earthen  baking  dish,  and  bake  for  one  hour,  stirring 
occasionally.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  apples,  cored  and  cut 
-in  eighths,  and  bake,  without  stirring,  for  one  hour 
longer,  or  until  firm.  Serve  with  cream. 

To  Prepare  a  Souffle  Tin 

Select  a  plain  tin  mold  which  will  hold  two  cupfuls. 
Butter  this  well.  Butter  a  double  piece  of  thick  white 
paper,  and  wrap  it  around  the  outside  of  the  tin.  Allow 
the  paper  to  extend  two  inches  above  the  top  of  the  tin, 
then  tie  it  securely.  The  paper  should  be  removed  just 
before  serving  the  souffle. 

Lemon  Pudding 

Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  mix  with  three- 
fourths  cupful  of  sugar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Beat  thoroughly  and  add  the  juice  of  three  good-sized 
lemons,  with  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  walnuts.  Fold  in  the  whites 
of  three  eggs  beaten  until  stiff,  and  bake  in  a  buttered 
souffle  tin  until  it  sets. 


Lemon  Bread  Pudding 

Soak  one  cup  of  bread  crumbs  one  hour  in  one  pint  of 
milk.  The  bread  must  be  just  right;  second-day  bread 
is  best,  not  dry,  nor  broken  in  pieces,  nor  grated,  but 
moist  enough  to  be  crumbled.  Add  one-half  cup  of 
sugar — more  if  liked — the  grated  rind  of  one-half  a 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        249 

lemon,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Bake  slowly 
about  one-half  hour.  Cool  and  place  on  ice.  Just  before 
using,  if  made  the  day  before,  beat  the  whites  of  the  two 
eggs  until  stiff,  add  juice  of  one-half  a  lemon,  and  a  little 
sugar.  Place  the  meringue  on  the  pudding  and  brown 
in  the  oven.  Then  cool  quickly  and  set  on  ice,  for  it 
adds  to  the  flavor  if  very  cold. 


Maple  Tapioca  Pudding 

Soak  one  cupful  of  tapioca  in  cold  water  or  milk  to 
cover,  then  cook  in  a  double  boiler  until  clear.  Add  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one-quarter  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  third-cupful  of 
powdered  maple  sugar,  and  one  cupful  of  milk.  Mix 
all  thoroughly,  then  stir  in  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of 
the  eggs,  and  bake.  If  preferred,  the  whites  may  be  re- 
served, sweetened,  and  spread  over  the  baked  pudding 
as  a  meringue,  then  lightly  browned. 


Rice  Waffles  with  Maple  Syrup 

Soak  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  cooked  rice  in  enough 
warm  water  to  cover.  Add  two  and  two-thirds  cupfuls 
of  sour  milk,  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour, 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  beaten  egg.  Beat 
all  together  thoroughly,  and  just  before  frying,  beat  in 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Have  the  waffle  iron  very 
hot  and  use  plenty  of  fat.  Put  a  spoonful  of  the  mixture 
into  each  compartment,  cover  and  brown,  then  turn  and 
brown  on  the  other  side.  Serve  the  waffles  with  maple 
syrup  as  a  luncheon  or  supper  dish. 


250          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Persimmon  Pudding 

Two  ctipfuls  of  sugar  and  a  scant  cupful  of  butter 
rubbed  to  a  cream.  Beat  the  yolks  and  the  whites  of 
five  eggs  separately  and  whip  the  yolks  into  the  creamed 
butter  and  sugar.  Whip  for  one  minute  and  add  a  quart 
of  milk  gradually,  beating  all  the  while.  Now  stir  in  a 
scant  quart  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking  powder  alternately  with  the  stiffened  whites  of 
the  eggs.  Season  to  taste  with  cinnamon  and  mace 
(ground).  At  the  last,  beat  in  a  quart  of  persimmons 
which  have  been  seeded  and  washed,  and  run  through 
your  vegetable  press  to  a  smooth  pulp.  This  should 
make  two  large  puddings.  Bake  in  buttered  molds  which 
have  funnels  through  the  middle.  They  will  require  an 
hour's  baking  in  a  steady  oven.  Bake  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  covered  with  paper.  Turn  out  carefully,  sift 
powdered  sugar  over  them,  and  eat  hot  with  cream.  This 
quantity  will  serve  twelve. 

Foamy  Pudding  Sauce 

One  cupful  of  sugar;  two  eggs.  Beat  sugar  and  yolks 
together  in  a  bowl,  set  in  boiling  water.  Then  add  whites, 
beaten  stiff.  Put  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  in  a  bowl  and  pour  the  hot  sauce 
over  just  before  serving. 

Nut   Cream   Sauce 

Cream  together  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  butter  and 
half  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  beating  in  slowly  one 
tablespoonful  of  thick  maple  syrup,  three  tablespoonfuls 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        251 

of  whipped  cream,  and  a  small  cupful  of  chopped  nut 
meats.     Keep  in  a  cool  place  until  ready  to  serve. 

Creamy   Sauce 

To  the  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs  add  one  cupful  of 
powdered  sugar  gradually  and  one  cupful  of  whipped 
cream.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  vinegar  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla.  Use  as  soon  as  prepared. 

Maple  Hard  Sauce 

Add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  creamed,  to  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  maple  sugar;  beat  together 
until  creamy,  then  add  one  teaspoonful  of  thick,  sweet 
cream,  and  beat  hard  for  five  minutes.  Chill  before 
serving.  Maple  syrup  may  be  used  by  boiling  it  with 
half  its  quantity  of  water  until  it  will  make  a  soft  ball 
when  a  little  is  dropped  into  cold  water.  Stir  until  grainy 
and  let  it  harden ;  then  grate  or  grind  to  a  powder. 

Ambrosia 

Grate  one  fresh  cocoanut,  slice  four  oranges,  four 
bananas,  and  one  medium-sized  pineapple.  Fill  a  dish 
with  alternate  layers  of  all  of  the  fruit  and  cocoanut, 
sugaring  each  layer  to  taste.  Arrange  it  so  that  the 
cocoanut  will  come  on  the  last  layer.  Assemble  this 
dish  at  least  three  hours  before  it  is  to  be  served,  and 
set  on  the  ice. 

Sillabub 

Sweeten  and  season  to  taste  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  and 
one  cupful  of  thick  cream,  with  vanilla,  nutmeg,  and 
cinnamon.  Churn  this  in  a  sillabub  churn  or  with  a 


252     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

cream  whip.  Skim  off  the  froth  as  it  rises  until  it  is  all 
whipped  and  heap  this  on  the  dishes  and  serve  imme- 
diately. This  can  be  served  on  fresh  or  warmed-over 
cakes,  or  on  lady-fingers. 

Ivory  Cream 

Scald  one  pint  of  thin  cream ;  add  three- fourths  cupful 
of  sugar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  gelatine,  which  has 
been  soaked  in  one-fourth  cupful  of  cold  water.  Cool, 
add  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  as  it  begins  to  stiffen 
fold  in  one  cupful  of  cream,  beaten  until  stiff.  Mold, 
and  serve  garnished  with  whipped  cream  and  maraschino 
cherries,  or  use  blackberries  for  both  sauce  and  garnish. 

Baked  Apples  with  Marshmallow 

Wash  and  core  tart  apples  and  place  in  an  earthen- 
ware baking  dish  with  just  enough  water  to  cover  the 
bottom.  In  the  center  of  each  apple  place  a  tiny  bit  of 
butter  and  an  eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cover 
and  bake  slowly  till  thoroughly  cooked,  adding  a  little 
water  if  necessary.  Before  the  apples  are  quite  done, 
press  into  the  center  of  each  a  marshmallow ;  replace  in 
the  oven;  in  three  minutes  remove  the  cover  and  let  the 
apples  and  marshmallows  brown  carefully.  Serve  cold 
with  cream.  Pears  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way,  cut- 
ting a  slice  from  the  stem  end,  coring  and  placing 
the  pear  stem  end  up  in  the  dish. 

Coffee  Souffle 

Heat  one  pint  of  cold  coffee  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
gelatine  and  one-half  cupful  of  sugar.  Pour  onto  the 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        253 

slightly  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  cook  over  water  until 
thickened.  Remove  from  fire,  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  stiffly  beaten 
whites  of  two  eggs,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  cool.  As 
it  begins  to  stiffen  fold  in  one  cupful  of  stiffly  beaten 
cream.  Mold  and  chill. 


Prune  Tapioca 

Cut  into  quarters  prunes  that  have  been  slowly  stewed 
with  sugar  and  a  little  grated  lemon  peel,  and  pour  over 
the  fruit  when  cold  the  following:  Soak  a  cupful  of 
tapioca  in  a  pint  of  water  for  two  hours,  then  cover  with 
rich  milk  and  cook  until  tender,  stirring  in  just  before 
removing  from  the  fire  the  yolks  of  two  well-beaten  eggs, 
a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  granulated  sugar,  and  a  dust- 
ing of  grated  nutmeg.  Cover  all  with  a  meringue  made 
from  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  serve  cold  with  a  sauce 
made  from  the  prune  syrup. 

Apricot  Mousse 

Soak  over  night  half  a  pound  of  dried  apricots  and  in 
the  morning  cook  in  the  same  water  until  tender,  sweet- 
ening to  taste ;  then  drain  and  to  about  a  pint  of  the 
fruit  syrup  add  a  tablespoonful  of  gelatine  that  has  been 
dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water;  allow  it  to  cool  but  not 
stiffen,  and  then  fold  in  the  stiffly  whipped  whites  of  two 
eggs  and  a  cupful  of  whipped  cream ;  beat  steadily  until 
it  is  a  light  creamy  mass,  gradually  adding  the  chopped 
apricots  as  you  beat ;  pour  carefully  into  an  ornamental 
mold,  placing  directly  on  the  ice  to  chill ;  unmold  at  serv- 
ing time  and  serve  with  an  iced  custard  sauce. 


254          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Peach  Melba 

Place  in  the  bottom  of  a  wide-brimmed  glass  half  of 
a  preserved  peach,  cover  this  with  a  layer  of  French 
vanilla  ice  cream,  laying  the  other  half  of  the  peach 
on  top :  now  cap  with  a  tiny  pyramid  of  sweetened 
whipped  cream  and  pour  over  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
peach  syrup.  Serve  garnished  with  small  crystallized 
cherries. 

Princess  Cream 

Whip  one  pint  of  cream,  add  sugar,  and  flavor  with 
vanilla.  Grate  some  stale  cake  (sponge  cake  preferably), 
and  moisten  slightly  with  milk  or  water,  Take  a  glass 
bowl,  put  in  a  layer  of  the  cream,  then  a  layer  of  the  cake 
crumbs,  putting  little  pieces  of  jelly  on  top  of  the  cake, 
then  another  layer  of  cream,  and  so  on;  the  top  layer 
should  be  of  cream  decorated  with  jelly. 

Hamburg  Sponge 

Place  in  the  upper  part  of  the  double  boiler  one  pint  of 
milk,  adding  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  a  heaping  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar.  Cook  only  until  well  thickened,  and 
then  remove  from  the  fire,  stirring  in  half  a  package  of 
gelatine  dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water.  Flavor  with  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  an  orange,  and  when  the  cream 
begins  to  cool  and  stiffen,  beat  to  a  foam  with  an  egg- 
beater,  folding  in  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar 
and  a  half  pint  of  cream  beaten  solid;  turn  into  wide- 
rimmed  glasses  that  have  been  lined  with  macaroons,  and 
place  directly  on  the  ice  to  chill.  Serve  garnished  with 
crystallized  cherries.  (Add  more  sugar,  if  desired.) 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        255 
Grapefruit  Cocktails 

Shred  the  pulp  of  three  large  grapefruit,  carefully  re- 
jecting all  the  white  membrane,  and  place  in  a  china  bowl, 
adding  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
four  or  five  drops  of  cider  vinegar,  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg, and  the  pulp  of  three  tart  oranges;  allow  the  in- 
gredients to  stand  in  the  ice  chest  over  night  (so  that  a 
rich  syrup  may  form),  and  when  ready  to  serve  put  into 
tall,  slender  glasses,  placing  on  each  portion  one  or  two 
red  cherries. 


Orange  and  Grapefruit  Cup 

This  should  always  be  prepared  at  least  six  hours  be- 
fore serving.  Shred,  for  each  portion,  half  a  grapefruit 
and  half  of  a  navel  orange,  arrange  in  layers  in  a  stemmed 
crystal  glass,  sprinkling  each  layer  with  confectioner's 
sugar;  do  not  fill  the  glass  too  full  as  a  delicious  syrup 
will  form  above  the  fruit,  when  placed  in  the  ice  chest  to 
chill  and  ripen.  Just  before  serving  add  a  little  cherry 
syrup,  garnishing  with  the  cherries,  and  serve  very  cold. 


Marshmallow  Loaf 

Dissolve  one  tablespoonful  of  gelatine  in  half  a  cupful 
of  hot  water.  Stir  into  this  the  beaten  whites  of  four 
eggs.  Add  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of 
cold  water.  Beat  for  one  minute.  Divide  this  mixture 
into  three  or  four  parts,  flavoring  each  differently,  and 
coloring  each  differently  with  vegetable  coloring  matter. 
Let  this  stand  until  it  is  stiffened,  so  that  the  mixture 
will  not  run.  Dust  a  loaf  cake  tin  with  powdered  sugar. 


256    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Put  in  one  color,  sprinkle  with  chopped  walnuts,  then  in 
turn  put  in  the  other  colors,  with  chopped  nuts  between 
each  layer.  Set  it  on  ice  to  harden,  and  serve  in  slices 
with  whipped  cream. 


Apple  Custard 

Take  mellow  apples  of  medium  size.  Pare,  core,  and 
bake  until  tender  in  a  slow  oven.  Press  through  a  sieve. 
To  each  cupful  of  apple  pulp  add  half  a  cupful  of  cream, 
two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  lump  of  butter  size  of 
egg,  and  two  stiffly  beaten  eggs.  While  the  apple  pulp  is 
still  hot,  blend  into  it  the  butter.  Heat  the  sugar  until 
it  is  a  syrup  and  add  first  the  yolks  of  eggs,  then  the 
cream,  and  beat  all  vigorously.  Pour  into  buttered  cups 
and  bake  in  moderately  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Remove  from  the  oven  and  quickly  pour  over  it  the  stiffly 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs,  return  to  the  oven  to  brown. 
Chill,  then  set  in  icebox.  Serve  with  cream. 


Royal  Cream 

Soak  one-third  of  a  box  of  gelatine  in  one  quart  of 
milk  for  an  hour.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  add 
a  half-cupful  of  sugar.  Put  the  milk  over  the  fire  in  a 
double  boiler.  When  hot,  add  the  sugar  and  egg  to  it, 
and  stir  constantly  until  creamy.  Remove  from  fire,  cool, 
and  add  the  stiffly  beaten  whites.  Beat  mixture  well  for 
five  minutes.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  turn 
into  a  mold.  When  cold,  serve  with  whipped  or  sweet- 
ened cream. 


JUST  HOW  .TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        257 
Cocoanut  Blancmange 

Mix  one-fourth  cupful  of  cornstarch  and  one-fourth 
cupful  of  sugar  with  a  little  cold  water.  Add  to  two 
cupfuls  of  scalded  milk  and  stir  until  it  thickens.  Cook 
in  a  double  boiler  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  oc'ca- 
sionall>.  Cool  slightly,  add  one  cupful  of  shredded 
cocoanut,  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  three  eggs,  and  one- 
fourth  of  a  cupful  of  candied  or  Maraschino  cherries,  cut 
in  small  pieces.  Chill  in  molds,  wet  with  cold  water,  and 
serve  with  cream  or  a  soft  custard  made  with  the  yolks 
of  eggs. 


Jellied  Oatmeal 

Place  three  cupfuls  of  water  and  one  of  milk  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  double  boiler,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
when  boiling,  stir  in  two  cupfuls  of  oatmeal ;  cover 
closely  and  cook  for  two  hours  over  hot  water ;  then  add, 
just  previous  to  serving,  one  large  cupful  of  stiffly 
whipped  cream ;  serve  in  small  dishes,  sprinkle  thickly 
with  chopped  nuts,  and  accompany  with  sugar  and  thick 
cream. 


Angel  Custard 

Heat  a  quart  of  milk  in  the  double  boiler  and  then 
pour  it  slowly  on  the  stiffly  whipped  whites  of  four  eggs ; 
sweeten  the  custard  with  two  scant  tablespoonfuls  of 
pulverized  sugar,  flavoring  with  a  drop  or  two  of  almond 
extract  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  turn  into  small 
custard  cups ;  set  the  cups  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and 


258    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

cook  in  a  moderate  oven,  until  firm ;  then  cover  the  tops 
with  grated  macaroon  crumbs. 

Pear  Condet 

.Cook  one-third  cupful  of  washed  rice  in  milk  until 
rice  is  tender.  Add  two  eggs,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
one-third  teaspoonful  salt.  Turn  on  to  a  serving  dish, 
and  on  it  arrange  halves  of  canned  pears,  which  have  been 
cooked  in  the  syrup.  Sprinkle  rice  and  pears  with  finely 
cut  preserved  ginger. 

Banana  Compote 

Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  together  one  cupful  of  sugar 
and  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  water  ten  minutes.  Add 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  one-fourth  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla,  and  let  stand  until  perfectly  cold. 
Pour,  over  four  bananas  halved  and  quartered.  When 
thoroughly  chilled,  sprinkle  with  finely  chopped  nuts,  and 
serve  with  beaten  cream. 

Maple  Cup  Custards 

Beat  three  eggs  slightly,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  scraped  maple  sugar.  Pour  over  all 
three  cupfuls  of  hot  milk  with  one-fourth  cupful  of 
thick  cream.  Of  course  the  latter  may  be  omitted,  if 
liked.  Fill  the  custard  into  wetted  custard  cups,  place 
these  in  a  dish  of  hot  water,  and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven 
until  the  custard  is  set. 

Grape  Juice  Souffle 

To  one  pint  of  grape  juice,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
granulated  gelatine,  and  heat  until  gelatine  is  dissolved. 


Strawberry  Compote. 
Recipe  on  Page  259. 


Orange  Surprise. 
Recipe  on  Page  260. 


Choux  Pastry. 
Recipe  on  Page  390. 


Strawberry  Charlotte. 
Recipe  on  Page  259. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        259 

Strain  and  cool.  When  mixture  begins  to  stiffen,  beat 
in  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  four  eggs,  and  fold  in  one 
cupful  of  stiffly  beaten  cream.  Turn  into  molds  and 
chill. 

Jellied  Prunes 

Cook  one-third  pound  of  prunes  until  soft;  remove 
stones,  and  cut  meat  in  pieces.  Soak  one-half  box  of 
gelatine  in  one-half  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  add  to  one 
pint  of  the  syrup  in  which  prunes  were  cooked.  Add  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  one-fourth  cupful  of  lemon  juice,  and 
the  prunes.  Mold  and  chill.  Serve  with  plain  or  whipped 
cream. 

Strawberry  Charlotte 

Mash  one  box  of  prime  berries  through  a  colander, 
add  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  stir 
until  it  is  dissolved.  Soak  a  half-box  of  granulated 
gelatine  in  a  half-cupful  of  cold  water  for  thirty  min- 
utes, then  melt  it  over  hot  water.  Add  the  strawberry 
juice,  and  stir  continually  until  the  mixture  begins  to 
thicken,  then  fold  in  a  pint  of  cream  whipped.  Pour  into 
a  mold,  and  stand  on  ice  to  harden.  Serve  plain. 

Strawberry  Compote 

Boil  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  and  a  half-cupful  of  water  together  until  they  spin 
a  thread.  Pour,  while  hot,  over  one  box  of  hulled  berries. 
Heap  one  cupful  of  boiled  rice  in  the  platter,  pour  the 
hot  berries  over  it,  and  serve  either  plain  or  with  cream 
or  milk. 


26o          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Raspberry  Jelly 

Over  a  small  box  of  raspberries  sprinkle  a  cup  and  a 
half  of  powdered  sugar,  and  allow  to  stand  until  sugar  is 
melted.  Crush  through  a  colander — there  should  be  a 
pint  of  juice,  but  if  not,  add  enough  water  to  make  a 
pint  of  liquid.  Dissolve  two  tablespoonfuls  of  gelatine 
in  a  cup  of  warm  water,  and  stir  into  the  fruit  juice,  put- 
ting into  the  refrigerator  to  harden.  When  serving, 
place  cubes  of  the  gelatine  in  a  tall  glass,  with  a  layer  of 
whipped  cream  between  and  on  top  of  layers  of  the 
jelly.  This  is  much  improved  by  pouiing  the  juice  of 
more  raspberries  over  the  whole. 

Gooseberry  Amber 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  saucepan ;  when 
melted  add  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  gooseberries,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  the  grated  rind  of  one 
lemon.  Let  stew  slowly  until  soft,  then  rub  through  a 
sieve.  Beat  in  the  yolks  of  .three  eggs,  and  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  ginger.  Line  a  pudding  dish 
with  good  pastry.  Cut  out  some  of  the  pastry  into  small 
fancy  rounds,  brush  the  edge  of  the  pastry  with  a  little 
water,  arrange  the  rounds'  of  pastry  on  it,  overlapping 
each  other.  Put  the  gooseberry  mixture  into  the  dish 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Cover  with 
a  meringue  and  brown  slowly. 

Orange  Surprise 

Cut  oranges  in  halves.  Remove  juice  and  pulp,  leav- 
ing the  skins  in  good  condition.  For  a  pint  of  juice, 
soften  half  a  package  of  gelatine  in  one-half  cupful  of 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  DESSERTS        261 

cold  water,  and  dissolve  it  in  one-half  cupful  of  boiling 
water.  Add  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon.  Add  orange  juice  and  strain.  Mold  the  jelly  in 
teacups  wet  with  cold  water.  Fill  to  the  height  required 
to  fill  the  orange  skins.  Decorate  jelly  with  almonds, 
candied  cherries,  and  cooked  sultana  raisins.  When 
ready  to  serve,  remove  from  cups  to  skins.  Cover  with 
meringue  and  brown  delicately  in  a  very  hot  oven. 


262    MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  DESSERTS 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  DESSERTS   263 


"y 


- 


264    MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  DESSERTS 


SALADS 


By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

HE  salad  has  almost  the  same  relation  to  the 
last  part  of  the  dinner  that  the  soup  has  to 
the  first.  In  other  words,  the  salad  should 
not  be  so  much  a  food  as  a  condiment.  While 
this  is  true  of  many  salads,  it  is  quite  untrue 
of  some  others.  The  ideal  dinner  salad  is 
lettuce,  romaine,  endive  or  water  cress  with 
or  without  tomato.  The  lobster,  potato,  and  chicken 
salads  are,  however,  concentrated  foods.  They  are  very 
properly  served  as  the  chief  item  at  a  stand-up  function, 
or  the  principal  supper  or  luncheon  dish,  but  are  not  at 
all  suited  for  bringing  a  substantial  dinner  to  a  close.  I 
say  advisedly  "  to  a  close,"  because  too  often  the  dessert 
merely  adds  a  heavy,  indigestible  sweet  to  the  menu, 
tempting  the  diner  to  eat  when  he  has  already  had 
enough,  and  it  would  be  well  to  stop  the  dinner  with 
the  salad,  or  content  one's  self  with  a  little  fruit  or  a 
few  nuts.  Lettuce  and  tomatoes  are  composed  chiefly 
of  water.  The  oil  in  the  salad  dressing  is  nutritious,  of 
course,  furnishing  an  abundant  supply  of  heat  and 
energy,  but  comparatively  little  of  it  is  used,  and  even 
including  this,  a  salad  cannot  be  regarded  as  a  very  sub- 
stantial addendum  to  the  meal. 

Vegetable  salads  should  be  well  washed  to  remove 
any  adhering  dust  or  dirt,  as  well  as  to  be  certain  that 
no  harmful  germs  are  retained  upon  them.  It  is  true 

265 


266    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

that  mere  washing  will  not  remove  harmful  germs,  but 
they  are  not  so  often  attached  to  the  lettuce  or  to  the 
tomato  as  they  are  to  the  dust  and  dirt  which  may  adhere 
to  them.  A  thorough  washing  of  these  materials,  there- 
fore, before  the  preparation  of  the  salad  is  a  sanitary 
measure  of  great  importance. 

The  use  of  the  salad  among  American  families  should 
be  encouraged.  It  is  too  infrequently  found  on  our 
tables,  especially  among  farmers,  who  grow  abundant 
salad  materials  in  the  garden.  The  attractive  recipes 
which  follow  will  do  much,  I  am  sure,  to  earn  for  the 
salad  the  increased  popularity  that  it  deserves. 


Jellied  Chicken  and  Egg  Salad. 
Recipe  on  Page  267. 


Cucumbers  and  Cress. 
A  Spring  Salad  Crisp  and  Appetising. 


sr/ 


Tomatoes  and  Endive  Salad  Garnished  with  Capers. 
Serve  a  French  Dressing  with  this. 


Pond  Lily  Salad. 
Recipe  on  Page  274. 


A  CHAPTER  OF  SALADS 

Jellied  Chicken  and  Egg  Salad 

Cook  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  chicken  stock  or 
wafer  with  one  finely  chopped  onion,  one  chopped  red 
pepper,  one  teaspoon  fill  of  salt,  and  one  tablespoonful 
of-  Worcestershire.  Cook  three  eggs  until  hard,  and  cool. 
Soak,  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  gelatine.  Add  the  hot  stock  to  the  gelatine,  and  when 
thoroughly  dissolved  pour  into  an  oblong  wetted  mold 
to  the  depth  of  one-half  an  inch.  Set  on  ice  until  stiff- 
ened. Then  arrange  slices  of  the  hard  cooked  egg  on 
the  jelly.  Finally  add  the  remainder  of  the  eggs  cut  in 
slices  and  two  cupfuls  of  diced  chicken  meat  to  the  hot 
stock,  and  pour  all  into  the  mold.  Chill  and  serve  in 
slices  with  salad  dressing,  either  with  or  without  lettuce. 

Stuffed  Egg  Salad 

Boil  four  eggs  until  hard,  and  after  shelling,  cut  length- 
wise into  halves ;  remove  the  yolks  and  beat  to  a  paste, 
adding  a  tablespoonful  of  chili  sauce,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  minced  chicken,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter; 
when  blended  fill  into  the  egg  whites,  and  arrange  on  a 
bed  of  crisp  heart  lettuce  leaves,  pouring  over  a  thick 
boiled  dressing  and  garnishing  with  capers  and  slices  of 
pickled  beets. 

267 


'268          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Roast  Beef  Salad 

A  very  rare  piece  of  roast  beef  is  excellent  for  the 
salad.  Cut  in  very  thin  pieces,  and  marinate  in  a  French 
dressing  to  which  a  slice  of  onion  finely  chopped  has  been 
added.  Serve  on  a  platter  garnished  with  potato  salad, 
pickled  beets,  and  lettuce. 

Note:  Any  cold  left-over  vegetables  may  be  mari- 
nated, and  used  as  a  garnish. 

Dandelions  with  Bacon 

A  German  salad  is  made  as  follows :  Chop  some  tender 
young  dandelion  leaves  in  a  bowl  and  in  the  meantime 
place  some  strips  of  bacon  to  fry  out  in  a  pan.  When 
this  is  crisp  add  a  cupful  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  two  beaten  eggs.  Heat  this  and  pour  it  over 
the  greens.  Serve  with  boiled-egg  rings  and  the  strips  of 
bacon. 


Spinach  Salad 

Wash  thoroughly  and  boil  a  half-peck  of  spinach.  If 
it  is  young  and  tender  cook  in  its  own  juices,  heating  it, 
in  a  saucepan,  very  gradually  to  prevent  burning.  Cook 
twenty-five  minutes  or  until  tender.  Old  spinach  is  bet- 
ter cooked  in  boiling,  salted  water.  Allow  two  quarts  of 
water  to  one  peck  of  spinach.  When  tender  drain  the 
spinach  and  chop  it  with  six  hard  cooked  eggs.  Add 
one  cupful  of  toasted  bread  crumbs  and  one-half-cupful 
of  minced  boiled  ham,  if  liked.  Pack  in  small  cups  or 
molds.  Chill  on  ice  and  when  ready  to  serve  surround 


A  CHAPTER  OF  SALADS  269 

each  mold  on  the  serving  plate  with  olives,  and  dress 
with  mayonnaise. 


Red  Pepper  Salad 

Mix  one-half  can  of  pimientos  or  sweet  peppers  with 
one  cream  cheese.  Beat  into  the  mixture  sufficient 
mayonnaise  to  soften  it  slightly  and  add  a  few  drops  of 
onion  juice,  more  if  a  decided  onion  flavor  is  liked. 
Pack  in  a  mold,  chill  on  ice,  and  when  ready  to  serve, 
cut  in  slices,  and  place  on  crisp  lettuce  leaves.  This 
makes  a  good  luncheon  salad. 

Cucumber  Jelly  Salad 

Peel  two  cucumbers  and  cut  in  slices,  add  one  slice  of 
onion,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  pepper. 
Simmer  until  cucumbers  are  tender  in  one  pint  of  water. 
Add  one  tablespoonful  of  gelatine,  dissolved  in  warm 
water.  Line  a  mold  with  slices  of  fresh  cucumber  cut 
very  thin,  and  pour  in  the  jelly  slowly.  Set  in  the  ice 
box  to  chill.  Turn  out  on  a  bed  of  lettuce  heart  leaves 
and  serve  with  French  dressing,  which  has  been  mixed 
with  a  piece  of  ice  until  it  is  nearly  as  thick  as  mayon- 
naise. 

Potato  and  Tomato  Salad 

Cut  four  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  cubes;  and  two 
tomatoes  into  eighths.  Thoroughly  mix  the  potatoes 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  one  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar,  one  tablespoonful  of  Tarragon  vinegar,  salt,  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  finely  cut  chives. 


270 

Mound  in  the  center  of  a  platter,   surround  with  the 
sections  of  tomatoes,  and  a  border  of  lettuce  leaves. 

Okra  Salad 

Cut  the  little  buttons  from  the  ends  of  the  fresh  okras, 
then  wash  them  and  put  them  in  a  pot  and  cover  them 
well  with  boiling  water.  Let  them  boil  vigorously  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  take  them  -off  the  stove,  strain  them, 
and  put  them  in  the  ice  box.  Serve  with  French  dressing. 

Beet  and  Pepper  Salad 

Thinly  slice  four  small  boiled  beets.  Remove  the 
seeds  from  and  parboil  two  green  peppers  five  minutes, 
then  cut  in  strips.  When  very  cold,  serve  in  nests  of 
lettuce  with  a  French  dressing  made  as  follows :  Mix 
together  four  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of  Tarragon  vinegar,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  paprika, 
one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and,  if  liked,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely  chopped  onion  or  shallots. 

Tomato  Jelly  Salad 

Turn  into  saucepan  the  contents  of  a  can  of  tomatoes, 
adding  a  bay  leaf,  one  teaspoonful  of  brown  sugar,  a 
pinch  each  of  allspice  and  ground  nutmeg,  half  a  chopped 
onion,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  cayenne 
pepper ;  simmer  slowly,  pouring  in  a  little  cold  water  if  it 
becomes  too  thick,  and  strain  through  a  puree  sieve,  stir- 
ring into  each  pint  of  liquid  a  tablespoonful  of  gelatine 
that  has  been  dissolved  in  half  a  cupful  o-f  hot  water; 
turn  into  small  ring  molds,  and  when  cold  and  firm, 


A  CHAPTER  OF  SALADS  271 

mold  in  nests  of  crisp  lettuce  leaves,  filling  the  center 
with  a  mayonnaise  of  celery;  garnish  with  tiny  stuffed 
olives  and  small  capers. 

Cabbage  Salad 

Select  a  well-shaped,  crisp  head  of  cabbage.  Remove 
the  coarse  outer  leaves,  take  out  the  heart  of  the  cab- 
bage, and  cut  the  edges  into  points.  Chop  the  removed 
cabbage  finely,  discarding  all  coarse  stalks  or  ribs.  Sea- 
son with  salt,  pepper,  and  equal  measures  of  salted 
whipped  cream  and  mayonnaise  dressing,  and  mix' to- 
gether thoroughly.  Fill  the  open  space  in  the  cabbage 
with  this  mixture,  and  decorate  with  finely  chopped  beets. 
Garnish  with  parsley.  Crisp  the  cabbage  before  cutting 
by  letting  it  stand  an  hour  or  more,  head  downward,  in 
very  cold  water. 

Waldorf  Salad 

Chop  rather  finely  four  tart  apples  (squeezing  over  a 
little  lemon  juice),  add  two  cupfuls  of  chopped  white 
celery,  and  one  cupful  of  mixed  nut  meats;  toss  the  in- 
gredients lightly  together,  blending  in  a  large  cupful  of 
mayonnaise  dressing,  and  arrange  in  individual  portions 
in  nests  of  lettuce  leaves.  Garnish  with  grated  egg  yolks 
and  tiny  pink  radishes.  A  cream  dressing  can  also  be 
used  here. 

Cleveland  Salad 

Four  cupfuls  of  boiling  water,  three  lemons,  one  pack- 
age of  gelatine,  four  cucumbers,  and  one-quarter  of  a 
can  of  pimientos,  salt  to  taste,  and  paprika  as  desired. 


272    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Make  a  hot  unsweetened  lemonade,  add  a  pinch  of  salt 
and  paprika.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  cupful  of  water. 
When  it  is  dissolved,  mix  it  with  the  lemonade.  Slice 
the  cucumbers  very  thin  and  add  the  peppers,  put  both  in 
a  large  mold,  and  pour  the  lemon  gelatine  over  all.  Set 
in  the  refrigerator  over  night.  Serve  with  mayonnaise 
on  a  bed  of  lettuce. 


Pineapple  Salad 

Cut  into  strips  three  slices  of  Hawaiian  pineapple  and 
one  canned  red  pepper.  Place  on  ice  until  time  of  serv- 
ing, then  place  on  heart  leaves  of  lettuce,  and  partially 
cover  with  cream  mayonnaise,  made  as  follows :  Beat 
until  stiff  one-half  cup  heavy  cream,  and  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  mayonnaise  dressing,  and  season  with  salt 
and  paprika.  If  the  mayonnaise  has  separated  from 
standing,  it  will  become  smooth  .when  added  to  the 
cream. 

Hawaiian  Salad 

Choose  any  brand  of  Hawaiian  pineapple  and  drain 
the  slices  carefully.  Place  one  slice  on  each  serving  plate, 
which  already  holds  the  blanched  leaves  from  lettuce 
hearts.  In  the  center  of  the  pineapple  place  a  small  ball 
of  Roquefort  cheese  which  has  been  softened  until  it  can 
be  molded  with  a  little  cream  or  milk.  Add  a  few 
broken  nuts,  or  omit  these,  if  preferred.  And,  of  course, 
a  mild-flavored  cheese  may  be  used,  but  the  Roquefort 
cheese  is  peculiarly  happy.  Dress  with  a  French  dress- 
ing, to  which  are  added  two  tablespoonfuls  of  stiffly  beaten 
cream. 


A  CHAPTER  OF  SALADS  273 

Grape  Salad 

From  one  cup  of  Malaga  or  any  other  large  grapes, 
remove  the  seeds,  and  fill  the  cavity  with  finely  chopped 
or  ground  nuts — walnuts  preferred.  Chop  one  large 
stalk  of  celery  very  fine  and  keep  on  the  ice  or  in  some 
cool  place  until  ready  to  serve.  A  little  while  before 
serving,  mix  the  grapes  and  celery  together  with  a 
mayonnaise  or  cooked  dressing  to  which  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  cream  have  been  added.  Serve  on  chicory  that 
has  been  kept  on  ice  until  it  is  firm  and  crisp.  If  chicory 
cannot  be  had,  shred  curly  cabbage  or  lettuce.  Either  the 
feathery  chicory,  shredded  lettuce,  or  curly  cabbage  gives 
the  appearance  of  grass  under  the  tent.  The  tents  are 
made  of  cheese-sticks  in  the  following  manner: 

One  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour,  a  little  salt,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  one-quarter  of  a  cup- 
ful of  shortening ;  mix  with  ice-cold  water ;  roll  out  very 
thin  and  spread  with. grated  cheese;  fold  and  roll  again; 
cut  into  oblong  pieces  about  four  by  six  inches ;  then 
with  the  back  of  a  silver  knife  mark  dough  into  strips 
half  an  inch  wide,  but  do  not  cut  clear  through;  sprinkle 
again  with  grated  cheese,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven ;  when 
done,  cut  through  the  center  crosswise  and  bend  in  the 
shape  of  a  "  V  "  tent ;  on  top  stick  the  miniature  Valley 
Forge  flag ;  place  the  tent  over  the  salad  as  in  the  picture. 
The  tent  may  be  eaten  with  the  salad. 

Cherry  Salad 

Ripe  red  cherries,  one  head  of  lettuce,  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  filberts,  and  mayonnaise  dressing.  Blanch  the 
filberts  by  soaking  in  boiling  water  and  rubbing  off  the 
skins.  Remove  the  stones  from  the  cherries  and  re- 


274    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

place  them  with  the  filberts.  Arrange  lettuce  leaves  in 
nests,  place  cherries  in  the  center,  and  serve  with  mayon- 
naise dressing. 

Red  and  White  Currant  and  Raspberry  Salad 

Take  one  pound  of  white  currants  and  one  pound  of 
red  currants,  pick  off  their  stalks.  Place  the  red  cur- 
rants in  the  center  of  the  dish  on  which  the  salad  is  to 
be  served;  then  arrange  around  them  alternately  the 
white  currants  and  raspberries.  Whip  up  some  cream, 
sweeten  it  and  send  to  the  table  separately. 

Pond  Lily  Salad 

Remove  the  shells  from  four  eggs  cooked  hard  and 
around  the  center  of  each  egg,  with  a  small,  sharp  knife, 
cut  deep  a  zigzag  line.  Separate  the  egg,  following  the 
line  marked,  which  will  give  the  top's  an  uneven  surface, 
with  scalloped  or  pointed  edges.  Wash  the  lettuce  and 
throw  into  cold  water.  When  crisp,  remove,  and  shake 
out  all  the  water.  Arrange  the  egg,  with  its  white  edge 
and  yellow  center,  on  a  lettuce  leaf,  like  a  pond  lily  with 
its  pod.  Garnish  with  small  ornamentations  of  beet,  cut 
in  the  shape  of  mushrooms.  Serve  at  once  with  French 
dressing. 

Crab  Meat  Salad 

Use  twice  as  much  crab  meat  as  celery.  Cut  vege- 
table stalks  into  fine  pieces  and  stir  them  into  the  may- 
onnaise. Break  the  meat  into  pieces  of  uniform  size, 
heap  it  upon  a  bed  of  lettuce  leaves,  and  pour  the  dress- 
ing over  the  mount.  Serve  cold. 


Hawaiian  Salad. 
Recipe  given  on  Page  272. 


Grape  Salad  in  Tent. 
Recipe  given  on  Page  273. 


A  CHAPTER  OF  SALADS  275 

Sardine    Salad 

Cut  two  stalks  of  celery  into  small  pieces  and  finely 
chop  enough  parsley  to  make  one-half  of  a  teaspoonful. 
Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  a  small  box  of  sar- 
dines, then  break  the  fish  into  small  pieces.  Lightly  toss 
the  celery,  parsley,  and  fish  together,  and  let  them  get 
very  cold  before  serving.  Serve  cold. 

Oyster  Salad 

Small  oysters  are  best  to  use  for  salad,  as  cutting  the 
large  ones  is  apt  to  make  the  dish  look  unattractive. 
Scald  the  bivalves  in  their  own  liquor  until  the  edges 
curl  slightly.  Drain  them,  wash  to  remove  all  pieces  of 
shell,  and  set  them  on  the  ice  to  chill  until  serving  time. 
To  every  quart  of  oysters  allow  two  large  stalks  of 
celery  cut  into  quarter-inch  pieces.  When  time  to  serve 
toss  the  fish  and  vegetables  lightly  together  in  the  salad 
bowl  and  pour  over  them  a  dressing  made  according  to 
this  recipe :  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  until  they  are 
lemon  colored,  then  add  one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  teaspoonful  each  of  pepper  and  prepared  mustard, 
the  grated  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  and,  lastly,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil  poured  in  very  slowly  while 
the  mixture  is  being  beaten.  Beat  well  until  smooth, 
then,  while  stirring  briskly,  thin  with  three  tablespoon- 
fuls of  lemon  juice.  Mild  vinegar  can  be  substituted  for 
the  lemon  juice  if  desired.  A  suggestion  of  horseradish 
and  tabasco  sauce  is  used  with  this  combination. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing 

Beat  the  yolk  of  one  egg  in  a  cold  dish  with  a  silver 
or  wooden  fork.  Add  one  cupful  of  oil,  drop  by  drop, 


276     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

beating  thoroughly.  When  it  begins  to  thicken  it  may 
be  thinned  with  lemon  juice  or  vinegar,  using  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  in  all.  When  all  the  oil  and  vinegar  is  mixed, 
the  seasonings  may  be  quickly  and  thoroughly  beaten  in. 
Use  one-half  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  mustard,  and 
a  dash  of  red  pepper.  It  is  usually  the  salt  which  causes 
the  mayonnaise  to  separate.  This  same  mayonnaise  may 
be  mixed  very  quickly  with  a  Dover  egg-beater,  but  none 
of  the  quickly-made  dressings  will  last  without  separat- 
ing, as  will  those  made  by  the  slower  drop  by  drop 
method. 


Chiffonade  Dressing 

This  is  extremely  good  to  serve  on  lettuce,  romaine, 
or  any  green  salad.  Into  a  glass  jar  put  one  hard- 
boiled  egg,  finely  chopped,  one  teaspoonful  of  finely  cut 
chives,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  red  and  green 
pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoonful 
of  paprika,  and  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one- 
half  cupful  of  olive  oil,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  Tarragon  vinegar.  Allow  it  to 
become  very  cold,  and  just  before  serving  shake  the 
contents  of  the  jar  thoroughly. 

Chili  Dressing 

Mix  together  six  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  Tarragon  vinegar,  one 
teaspoonful  finely  chopped  onion,  one-half  teaspoonful 
salt,  one-eighth  teaspoonful  pepper,  one-fourth  teaspoon- 
ful paprika,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  chili  sauce.  Let 
stand  several  hours,  shake  well,  and  serve  on  the  salad. 


A  CHAPTER   OF  SALADS  277 

Roquefort  Cheese  Dressing 

Mix  together  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of 
teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  six  tablespoonfuls  of  olive 
oil,  and  when  well  mixed  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
vinegar  or  lemon  juice.  Beat  all  together  until  an 
emulsion  is  formed.  Add  to  this  an  eighth  of  a  pound 
of  Roquefort  cheese,  crushed  fine,  and  a  little  chopped 
pimiento.  Serve  on  lettuce,  chicory,  or  endive. 

Roquefort  Sandwiches 

Cream  one-half  cupful  of  butter,  and  add  one-fourth 
pound  of  ripe  Roquefort  cheese;  mix  until  smooth; 
season  with  one-half  teaspoonful  of  paprika,  one-half 
clove  of  garlic  (finely  chopped),  and  salt  to  taste. 
Moisten  with  a  little  cream  to  make  of  right  consistency 
to  spread.  Put  between  very  thin  slices  of  brown  bread, 
or  entire  wheat  bread.  Cut  into  small  shapes,  and  serve 
with  the  salad. 


278      MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  SALADS 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  SALADS      279 


POTATOES  AND  OTHER  VEGETABLES 


By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

HE  function  of  the  potato  and  other  vege- 
tables is  two-fold.  The  potato  is  hardly  a 
succulent  vegetable,  but  green  corn,  green 
peas,  green  beans,  radishes,  tomatoes,  and 
similar  articles  of  diet  are  composed  chiefly 
of  water.  The  potato  itself  has  about  seventy- 
five  per  cent,  of  water,  while  a  radish  has 
close  to  ninety-five  per  cent.  In  other  words,  a  succulent 
vegetable  like  the  radish  is  not  much  more  than  solidified 
water.  It  seems  strange  that  a  body  containing  ninety- 
five  per  cent,  of  water  can  be  as  firm  and  hard  as  a 
radish.  It  shows  that  the  distribution  of  the  materials 
forming  the  cells  in  which  the  water  is  contained  is  most 
advantageously  made.  The  potato  is,  of  course,  a 
nourishing  vegetable.  It  is  composed  largely  of  starch, 
although  it  has  some  protein  and  mineral  matters  of 
value,  but  it  is  essentially  a  starchy  food.  Its  chief  value 
as  a  food  product  lies  in  this  fact.  It  is,  therefore,  a 
vegetable  which  is  admirably  adapted  to  supplementing  a 
meat,  fish,  or  poultry  diet.  The  desire  to  eat  potatoes 
with  meat  is  not  solely  a  function  of  taste.  It  is  also  a 
function  of  nutrition.  I  have  said  that  meats,  including 
poultry  and  fish,  are  not  a  balanced  diet.  They  become 
so,  however,  when  eaten  with  potatoes. 

The  sanitary  properties  of  the  potato  are  well  known. 

281 


282    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Plenty  of  potatoes  will  prevent  scurvy  in  long  voyages. 
In  this  the  potato  is  not  superior  to  other  vegetables,  but 
it  can  be  better  preserved  and  carried  longer  distances 
than  most  others.  Peas  and  beans  in  the  green  state 
are  more  succulent  than  the  potatoes  and  they  also  have 
quite  a  different  chemical  composition,  the  nitrogenous 
elements  being  dominant.  A  diet  composed  largely  of 
these  vegetables  is,  therefore,  one  which  approaches  the 
character  of  a  meat  diet.  Nevertheless,  it  should  not 
be  forgotten  that  although  peas  and  beans  contain  large 
quantities  of  nitrogen  they  are  still  very  well  balanced, 
as  in  a  green  state  they  carried  both  starch  and  sugar 
and  digestible  cellulose. 

The  succulent  vegetables  have  a  distinct  function  in 
nutrition  because  of  their  salutary  influence  upon  the 
digestive  functions.  With  raw  fruits,  succulent  vege- 
tables exert  a  most  favorable  influence  on  peristalsis 
and  secure  regular  and  proper  movements  of  the  bowels. 
Thus  they  not  only  minister  to  the  taste  and  afford  valu- 
able nutrients,  but  they  also  have  what  may  be  called  a 
regulating  or  medicinal  effect  upon  digestion.  The  po- 
tato being  largely  starch  should  be  avoided  in  cases  of 
a  tendency  to  obesity.  By  the  average  person,  or  es- 
pecially by  thin  people,  they  are,  on  the  contrary,  to  be 
eaten  with  freedom  and  benefit.  Fortunately,  the  ad- 
vance in  methods  of  preservation  has  rendered  it  pos- 
sible to  have  succulent  vegetables  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year.  The  process  of  sterilizing  fresh  vegetables,  com- 
monly known  as  canning,  extends  the  season  from  spring 
to  winter.  The  people  of  the  country  are  justly  having 
more  and  more  confidence  in  canned  goods,  so-called, 
because  of  the  efforts  of  the  canners  themselves  through 
their  powerful  organization  to  improve  the  quality  of 
the  materials  used  and  the  processes  of  preservation. 


POTATOES  AND  OTHER  VEGETABLES  283 

The  use  of  artificial  coloring  matters  and  preservatives 
in  goods  of  this  kind  has  practically  ceased,  and  the 
prejudice  which  has  so  long  existed  against  them  may 
well  be  laid  aside.  In  the  diet  of  man  a  generous  por- 
tion of  succulent  vegetables  finds  a  fitting  place. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  POTATOES 

HE  best  way  to  cook  potatoes  is  to  bake  them 
in  their  jackets  in  an  oven  of  450  degrees 
to  500  degrees  Fahrenheit.  This  seems  like 
a  high  temperature,  but  the  potato  inside 
does  not  get  hotter  than  212  degrees,  and 
cooks  by  steam  thoroughly.  When  the  potato 
is  taken  out  of  the  oven  it  must  be  pricked 
or  broken  at  once,  to  permit  the  escape  of  the  steam 
which  has  been  generated  in  the  cooking  process,  and 
which  if  not  given  egress,  will  condense  into  water  and 
make  the  potato  soggy  and  quite  indigestible.  If  it  is 
pricked  with  a  fork  it  is  best  to  warm  the  prongs  for  a 
few  seconds  before  using  in  the  first  potato,  to  prevent, 
as  much  as  possible,  any  condensation  resulting  from  the 
hot  steam  coming  into  contact  with  the  cold  metal  of 
the  fork.  It  is  easy  to  see  that  in  this  process  there  is 
no  chance  for  loss  and  that  if  the  potato  is  scraped  out 
well  from  the  skin  (where  lie  many  of  the  potash  salts), 
pretty  full  potato  value  is  secured.  Never  cut  open  a 
baked  potato;  always  break  it  of  it  will'be  not  mealy,  but 
soggy,  and  barely  fit  to  eat. 

The  next  best  method — in  point  of  economy — is  to  cook 
by  steaming.  Although  the  baking  is  a  partial  steaming 
process  the  actual  steaming  in  the  jackets  not  only 
renders  the  potato  deliciously  palatable,  but  the  subsequent 
removal  of  the  skins,  before  eating,  if  done  carefully, 
does  not  carry  away  much  of  the  valuable  mineral  salts. 
Steaming  takes  a  little  longer,  but  it  is  a  good  method 

285 


286    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

of  cooking,  ensuring  little  waste  not  only  with  potatoes, 
but  with  all  vegetables. 

The  process  of  boiling  brings  with  it  the  question 
of  boiling  in  the  jackets,  boiling  without  the  jackets, 
the  use  of  salt  in  the  water,  and  the  tempera- 
ture at  which  to  start  the  potatoes.  The  most  ap- 
proved method  is  that  of  boiling  the  potato  in  the 
jacket  and  of  beginning  the  process  with  hot  water. 
This  takes  less  time,  and  preserves  the  flavor.  Potatoes 
boiled  without  their  jackets  lose,  of  course,  a  great  part 
of  their  mineral  salts  and  tissue-making  material,  and 
they  lose  also  much  of  the  flavor  which  is  imparted  to 
them  from  the  layer  cut  off  in  paring.  If  salt  be  added 
after  fifteen  minutes,  when  the  potatoes  are  about  half 
cooked,  this  may  save  some  of  the  mineral  matter  and 
add  a  little  to  the  flavor  of  the  potatoes. 

Because  potatoes  are  so  lacking  in  fat,  proteid,  and 
mineral  matter,  it  has  become  an  invariable  rule,  con- 
sciously or  unconsciously,  to  eat  them  with  meats,  and 
to  prepare  them  so  as  to  introduce  the  food  constituents 
they  lack.  Thus  creamed  potatoes  and  potato  au  gratin 
introduce  fat  and  proteid,  and  make  pretty  well-propor- 
tioned dishes,  though,  of  course,  on  account  of  the  super- 
abundance of  starch,  such  dishes  are  not  adapted  to 
steady  diet.  Undoubtedly,  like  any  other  article  of  food 
the  potato  must  be  prepared  attractively.  It  must  not 
only  look  well,  but  must  have  a  pleasant  aroma. 


Boiled  Potatoes 

Scrub  the  potatoes,  scrape  them  if  desired,  and  put  in 
hot  water.  Boil  until  tender.  If  the  potatoes  are  old 
and  have  become  dry  by  evaporation  it  is  sometimes 


Potatoes,  French  Fried. 
Recipe  given  on  Page  287. 


Stuffed  Eggplant. 
Recipe  given  on  Page 


Apples  and  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Recipe  given  on  Page  293. 


A  Christmas  Garnish  for  the  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Holly  Leaves  are  cut  from  Green  and  the  Berries  from 

Red  Peppers. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  POTATOES       287 

wise  to  soak  them  for  a  little  while  in  cold  water,  or  to 
start  them  over  the  fire  in  cold  water.  Drain  until  dry, 
dust  with  salt,  and  cover  with  a  thick  cloth  until  ready 
to  serve;  then  serve  with  garnish  of  parsley. 


Baked  Potatoes 

Scrub  with  a  vegetable  brush,  put  into  hot  oven  (500 
degrees  Fahrenheit),  and  let  cook  until  thoroughly  soft, 
(forty-five  minutes,  or  longer  if  the  potatoes  are  large). 
Turn  the  potatoes  occasionally  to  insure  their  baking 
evenly.  Upon  removal  from  the  oven,  break  the  skins 
at  once  or  thoroughly  prick  with  a  warm  fork  prong  to 
permit  the  escape  of  steam.  Then  wrap  loosely  in  a 
napkin  and  slip  potatoes  and  napkin  into  a  dish,  and  serve. 


Potato,  French  Fried 

Scrape  three  or  four  potatoes,  wash  them  thoroughly, 
and  then  cut  into  strips ;  wash  them  after  they  are  cut, 
and  dry  thoroughly  in  a  cloth.  Have  ready  a  pan  of 
very  hot  clarified  fat ;  put  the  potatoes  into  a  f rying- 
basket,  plunge  into  the  fat,  and  fry  the  potatoes  until 
they  are  brown  and  crisp,  When  done,  drain,  sprinkle 
with  salt,  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin.  This  is  sufficient 
for  five  persons. 

Savory  Potatoes 

Six  or  eight  potatoes,  two  small  onions,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  one  heaping  teaspoon- 
ful  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  tea- 


288    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

spoonful  of  white  pepper,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  half-cup- 
ful of  water,  three  heaping  tablespoonfuls  grated  cheese. 
Put  the  butter  in  bottom  of  saucepan.  Pare  the  potatoes 
thinly,  chop  onions  and  parsley,  mix  salt  and  pepper  to- 
gether on  a  saucer.  Cut  the  potatoes  into  slices  and  put 
a  layer  in  the  saucepan.  Sprinkle  in  a  little  seasoning, 
then  onion  and  parsley.  Begin  again  with  the  potatoes 
and  alternate.  When  all  are  used  pour  in  the  water. 
Cover  closely  and  cook  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Now 
pour  in  the  milk  and  allow  it  to  cook  for  another  fifteen 
minutes.  Lift  the  potatoes  carefully  on  a  flat  dish,  and 
strew  the  grated  cheese  over  them  and  brown  in  the 
oven.  This  dish  may  be  cooked  in  a  casserole. 

Stuffed  Potatoes 

Bake  the  potatoes,  and  when  they  are  done,  take  out 
of  the  oven,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  scoop  the  potatoes 
out  of  their  jackets.  Mash  them  until  they  are  smooth 
with  milk,  butter,  paprika,  and  salt.  Put  them  back 
again  into  their  jackets,  and  put  them  in  the  oven  for  a 
few  minutes  to  heat  and  brown  on  the  top. 

Anna  Potatoes 

Cut  about  eight  cold  cooked  potatoes  into  thin  round 
slices,  place  them  in  a  dish,  sprinkle  over  them  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  or  American  cheese  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  fresh  bread  crumbs ;  spread  well 
over  them  a  piece  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  nut,  then 
place  the  dish  in  the  oven.  After  ten  minutes,  when  a 
golden  brown,  serve.  This  can  be  made  in  as  many 
layers  as  desired.  Paprika,  if  desired,  adds  flavor  to  this. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  POTATOES        289 
Nut-Filled  Potatoes 

Bake  until  soft  and  mealy  six  good-sized  potatoes, 
prick  to  let  off  steam,  and  then  cut  directly  in  halves 
where  they  were  pricked,  and  with  a  sharp  spoon  remove 
the  pulp  from  the  skins,  turning  into  a  warmed  mixing- 
bowl  ;  mash  thoroughly,  adding  a  small  cupful  of  rich 
milk  or  cream,  salt  and  paprika  to  taste,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  minced  parsley,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter, 
a  pinch  of  poultry  seasoning,  and  a  small  cupful  of  nut 
meats  that  have  been  passed  through  the  meat  chopper; 
beat  with  a  fork  until  very  light  and  creamy  and  return  to 
shells,  which,  after  dusting,  with  browned  bread  crumbs, 
are  placed  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes  to  crisp  and 
brown;  serve  garnished  with  small  bunches  of  parsley. 

Stuffed   Potatoes  with   Cheese 

Bake  until  soft  five  or  six  medium-sized  potatoes,  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  cut  directly  in  halves,  carefully  re- 
moving the  cooked  potatoes  into  a  mixing  bowl;  now 
mash  with  a  potato  masher,  and,  when  free  from  lumps, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley,  half  a  cupful  of  rich  milk,  one  small  cupful  of 
grated  cheese,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ;  beat  with  a 
fork  until  light  and  creamy  and  heap  into  the  potato 
skins,  dusting  the  tops  with  grated  cheese,  and  return 
to  the  oven  until  crisp  and  brown  on  top.  Serve  very 
hot. 

Chantilly  Potatoes 

Prepare  some  nicely  seasoned,  light,  mashed  potatoes, 
and  mound  on  a  platter.  Beat  one-half  cupful  of  cream 


290    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

until  stiff,  add  one-half  cupful  of  soft  cheese,  grated  and 
seasoned  with  salt  and  paprika.  Pile  lightly  onto  the 
potato  and  set  on  the  top  grate  of  the  oven  until  the  sur- 
face is  nicely  browned.  Be  sure  that  the  oven  is  very 
hot. 

Molded  Potatoes 

Press  left-over  mashed  potatoes  into  baking-powder 
cans  and  chill.  Slice  in  neat  rounds,  lay  on  a  buttered 
dripping-pan  in  the  oven,  and  bake  till  they  become  puffy 
and  a  delicate  brown.  Serve  with  broiled  steak  as  a 
garnish. 

Potato  Puff 

Add  to  two  cupfuls  of  hot  mashed  potatoes,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  one-half  cup- 
ful of  milk,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  in  a  deep 
buttered  baking-dish,  and  bake  about  twenty  minutes  in 
hot  oven. 

Potatoes  Rissolees 

New  potatoes,  or  old  ones  which  are  cut  down  to  the 
size  of  new  ones,  may  be  treated  as  follows :  Fry  in  deep 
fat  until  a  golden  brown,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  place 
in  a  pan;  set  in  the  oven  until  the  potatoes  are  soft 
throughout.  They  may  be  served  with  or  without  a 
cream  sauce. 

Potato  Puffs 

Season  two  cupfuls  of  cold  mashed  potatoes  with  salt, 
pepper,  celery  salt,  and  chopped  parsley.  Add  the  beaten 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  POTATOES       291 

yolk  of  one  egg  and  sufficient  flour  to  make  it  of  the  con- 
sistency to  roll  on  a  well-floured  board.  It  should  be 
one-half  inch  thick.  Cut  in  circles  four  inches  in  diam- 
eter; place  one  tablespoonful  or  more  of  well-seasoned, 
chopped  cold  meat,  moistened  slightly  with  gravy  or 
stock,  upon  one-half  of  each,  moisten  edges  with  cold 
water,  fold,  press  together,  and  fry  in  deep  fat.  Serve 
hot. 

Mint  Potatoes 

Wash  small  potatoes  and  rub  off  the  skins  with  a 
coarse  towel,  or  pare  and  scrape  them.  Put  into  boiling 
water  with  sprigs  of  mint  sufficient  to  flavor  them  well ; 
and  cook  until  done,  drain,  and  serve  with  drawn  butter. 


Mashed  White  Potatoes  and  Turnips 

Prepare  as  mashed  potatoes,  adding  an  equal  quantity 
of  boiled  and  mashed  turnips.  Add  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  to  each  pint  of  potato  and  turnip,  with  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste. 


Fried  Potatoes  with  Spanish  Sauce 

Chop  fine  some  cold  boiled  potatoes.  Season  and 
saute  in  hot  fat  until  golden  brown.  Fold  over  like  an 
omelet,  slip  on  a  platter,  and  pour  over  the  potatoes  the 
following  sauce :  Boil  together  for  ten  minutes,  one-half 
can  of  tomatoes,  one-half  can  of  shredded  pimientoes, 
and  one-half  can  of  button  mushrooms.  Season  with 
salt,  butter,  and  paprika  or  pepper.  Thicken  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed  to  a  cream  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter.  Add  to  the  sauce,  cook  until 


292          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  fiOOK 

smoothly  thickened,  stirring  all  the  time.  If  liked,  a 
little  chopped  onion  may  be  used  as  an  additional  sea- 
soning. 

Potato  Chowder 

Cut  a  slice  of  pork  into  small  dice,  fry  to  a  light  brown 
in  a  soup  kettle.  Then  add  three  medium-sized  potatoes 
and  one  onion,  put  through  the  meat  chopper,  or  slice  in 
small  bits.  Add  pepper  and  salt  and  dredge  over  a  little 
flour,  cover  with  water  and  simmer  until  the  vegetables 
are  tender.  Then  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  hot  milk.  Let 
it  all  come  to  a  boil,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and 
serve  with  toasted  crackers.  A  tomato  cut  in  small  dice, 
or  a  little  left-over  stewed  tomatoes,  may  be  added. 

Scalloped  Sweet  Potatoes 

Boil  the  potatoes  without  peeling  until  half  done. 
Scrape  off  the  skins  while  they  are  hot  and  leave  them 
to  get  cold.  Then  cut  into  slices  almost  half  an  inch 
thick,  and  arrange  in  a  buttered  baking-dish,  scattering 
bits  of  butter  and  a  little  sugar  (a  teaspoonful  to  the 
layer)  between  them.  When  the  dish  is  rilled  in  this 
order,  pour  in  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  in  which  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  has  been  melted.  Cover  with  bread 
crumbs — dry  and  fine — dot  these  with  butter,  and  sprin- 
kle with  salt  and  pepper.  Cook,  closely  covered,  for 
half  an  hour  until  brown.  This  is  a  Southern  recipe  and 
the  product  is  delicious. 

A  Dixie  Potato  Pie 

To  half  a  pint  of  fresh  milk,  add  one  cupful  of  sweet 
potatoes,  well  mashed,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter, 


293 

and  one-eighth  cupful  of  cream,  or  milk.  Beat  until  this 
is  light  and  creamy.  Into  this  mixture  beat  very  lightly 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs;  add  nutmeg  and  sugar  to  taste 
and  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon  or  one  small  orange. 
A  white  meringue  may  be  added  to  the  top  if  desired. 

Browned  Sweet  Potatoes 

Select  potatoes  of  uniform  size,  and  pare;  place  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  add  water  to  a  depth  of  about  one-half 
inch.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  or  other  shorten- 
ing, and  one  tablespoonful  of  brown  or  white  sugar. 
Cover  and  let  boil  furiously.  The  water  will  soon  dis- 
appear as  steam,  and  the  potatoes  will  brown  in  the 
syrup  that  remains,  which  forms  a  delicious  crust,  keep- 
ing in  the  steam  and  flavor. 

Apples  and  Sweet  Potatoes 

Peeled,  sliced  apples,  and  sweet  potatoes  (the  potatoes 
are  previously  boiled,  peeled,  and  sliced),  arranged  in 
alternate  rows,  are  very  good  served  with  roast  loin  of 
pork  or  chops.  Butter  a  shallow  casserole,  and  lay 
enough  butter  over  the  potatoes  and  apples  to  moisten 
the  whole.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they  were  baked. 
Add  sugar  if  the  apples  are  very  tart. 

Sweet  Potato  Waffles 

To  one  cupful  of  mashed  sweet  potatoes  add  one  cup- 
ful of  flour,  one-fourth  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
milk,  one-half  cupful  of  melted  butter,  and  two  eggs,  the 
whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately.  Cook  on  a  waffle- 
iron. 


294  MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  POTATOES 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  POTATOES  295 


296  MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  POTATOES 


OUSEKEEPERS  have  always  found  diffi- 
culty in  making  certain  fruit  juices  "  jell  " — 
some,  such  as  those  of  the  ordinary  summer 
strawberry,  raspberry,  and  other  oversweet 
or  overripe  fruits,  because  they  lack  sufficient 
acid,  and  others,  such  as  the  juices  from 
rhubarb,  pineapple,  and  orange,  which  have 
sufficient  acid,  because  they  have  not  enough  pectin,  the 
jelly-making  property  of  fruits.  Recently,  however,  it 
was  discovered  at  the  University  of  Illinois,  through  ex- 
periments following  those  of  Alice  Dyar  Russell  with 
sweet  fruits,  that  the  lack  of  acid  can  be  offset  with 
tartaric  acid.  With  this  addition,  perfect  jelly  can  be 
made  from  even  ripe  blueberries;  and  Miss  Goldthwaite, 
also  of  the  University  of  Illinois,  discovered  further  that 
by  using  the  inner  white  rind  of  the  orange,  together 
with  a  certain  proportion  of  its  juice,  rhubarb,  the  de- 
spair of  generations  of  jelly-makers,  can  be  supplied 
with  pectin,  and  made  to  "  jell." 

Valuable  as  is  this  latter  discovery,  it  still  cannot 
greatly  help  the  women  of  those  regions  where  the 
orange,  either  from  lack  of  regular  supply  or  because  of 
its  expense,  is  not  yet  a  "  stand-by."  It  is  particularly 
to  these  women  that  the  latest  discovery  concerning  the 
citron-melon  will  mean  much;  for  it  has  been  found  that 
the  enormous  proportion  of  pectin  which  it  contains  may 

297 


298    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

be  practically  applied  in  "jelling"  a  number  of  fruits 
that  contain  little  pectin  o.f  their  own. 

Unfortunately,  the  citron-melon  is  but  little  cultivated 
to-day.  Although  it  can  be  found  in  many  parts  of  the 
country,  it  usually  appears  only  as  a  "  volunteer,"  the  re- 
sult of  plantings  of  many  years  ago.  Yet  before  the  in- 
troduction of  the  now  familiar  commercial  or  real  citron 
— a  candied  citrus  product — the  citron-melon  was  so 
universally  employed  for  the  same  purposes,  for  which 
the  commercial  citron  is  HOW  used,  that  some  recipes  and 
writers  still  mention  the  common  market  melon  of  to-day 
as  "  citron "  or  "  the  citron."  Such  confused  usage 
might  be  accepted  as  a  quaint  and  harmless  reminder  of 
the  past,  were  it  not  for  this  recent  discovery  which 
makes  the  old-time  garden  product  of  new  interest  and 
value  to  every  woman  who  makes  jelly.  For  the  citron- 
melon  still  possesses  those  qualities  that  once  made  it 
esteemed — qualities  capable  of  solving  what  have  usually 
been  the  home  jelly-maker's  greatest  problem.  Further- 
more, these  melons  can  be  so  easily  and  inexpensively 
grown  that  there  is  no  reason  why,  once  she  knows  of 
them,  every  woman  should  not  be  able  to  avail  herself 
of  their  advantages. 

Although  this  pectin  attribute  which  it  contains  has 
not  been  unknown  to  scientists  at  large,  it  was  made  to 
serve  no  practical  purpose  in  the  home  until  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Theodore  Mead,  of  Lake  Charm,  Oviedo,  Florida, 
began  experiments  with  guava  jelly. 

Because  of  its  peculiar  character,  the  ordinary  guava 
usually,  upon  first  acquaintance,  proves  a  stumbling- 
block  in  jelly-making,  even  to  skilled  and  careful  house- 
wives; and  when  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mead  first  came  to 
Florida,  though  Mrs.  Mead  brought  an  unusual  amount 
of  brain-power  to  bear  upon  the  guava,  even  she  was 


JELLIES  AND  PRESERVES  299 

balked  by  its  refusal  to  "  jell."  Mr.  Mead — a  graduate 
of  both  the  regular  and  agricultural  courses  at  Cornell, 
by  instinct  and  training  a  chemist,  and  also  specially  in- 
terested, as  a  practical  pomologist,  in  all  Florida  fruits — 
suggested  adding  to  the  guava  some  pulp  from  citron- 
melons,  which  were  then  plentiful  in  their  grove.  Mrs. 
Mead  did  this,  and  immediately  the  stubborn  juice 
"  jelled."  But  as  her  experience  grew  and  she  learned 
to  overcome  the  obstinacy  of  the  guava,  she  preferred  to 
use  only  its  pulp  and  juice,  and  she  did  not  carry  out 
further  experiments  with  the  citron-melon.  Experi- 
ments with  it  in  connection  with  the  guava  and  a  num- 
ber of  other  fruits  have  been  carried  on  by  the  writer, 
however,  and  have  continued  to  prove  its  practicability 
and  value  as  "  first  aid  "  to  jelly-makers. 


Rhubarb  Jelly 

Rhubarb  is  almost  unknown  in  Florida,  where  the  ex- 
periments were  made,  yet  two  or  three  trials  with  it 
proved  satisfactory — equal  amounts  of  citron-melon  and 
rhubarb  were  cut  into  small  cubes,  and  for  each  two 
quarts  one  half-pint  of  water  was  added  at  first  and  later 
a  scant  pint.  Very  little  additional  water  is  ever  needed 
with  citron-melon.  The  mixture  was  cooked  very  slowly, 
with  frequent  stirring  and  mashing,  until  it  formed  a 
soft  pulp,  resembling  thick  rhubarb  sauce.  It  was  then 
drained  for  twenty-four  hours,  measured,  boiled  for  fif- 
teen minutes — being  skimmed  meantime.  Then  an  equal 
measure  of  sugar  was  added.  Fifteen  minutes  was  al- 
lowed for  boiling — skimming  again — and  then,  having 
"  jelled,"  it  was  poured  into  glasses.  With  the  next  ex- 
periment, one  quart  each  of  rhubarb,  melon,  and  water 


300    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

were  used,  cooked — not  so  thick  as  in  the  first  experi- 
ment— in  a  fireless  cooker  and  drained  but  twelve  hours. 
The  resulting  juice  was  thinner,  and  required  longer  to 
"  jell." 

Orange  Jelly 

Three  trials,  also,  were  made  with  orange  jelly  com- 
bined with  the  citron-melon,  using,  in  small  cubes,  equal 
measures  of  citron-melon  pulp,  and  the  inner,  soft  pulp, 
and  juice,  of  the  orange.  Neither  white  nor  yellow  rind 
was  added,  and  no  water.  This  combination  was  brought 
to  a  boil  in  the  morning,  then  placed  in  a  fireless  cooker 
till  evening,  when  it  was  placed  to  drain  till  the  next 
morning.  The  strained  juice  was  boiled  till  reduced  one- 
half — being  skimmed  meantime — then  an  equal  measure 
of  sugar  added.  The  jelly  formed  within  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes  thereafter.  The  three  trials  showed 
practically  no  variation.  It  should  perhaps  be  added  that 
orange  jelly  had  previously  been  made  with  the  juice 
and  rind  of  oranges,  but  the  result  was  darker  and  less 
pleasing  in  flavor. 


Pineapple  Jelly 

In  experimenting  with  pineapple  jelly,  a  firm  pineapple 
was  used,  which,  although  ripe,  was  not  yet  entirely  yellow. 
A  small  quantity  was  made  at  a  time.  One  quart  each  of 
diced  pineapple  and  citron-melon  and  one  pint  of  water 
was  brought  to  a  boil  and  mashed  thoroughly,  then 
cooked  to  a  soft  pulp  in  a  fireless  cooker.  This  mixture 
was  then  strained  overnight,  and  resulted  in  one  pint  and 
a  half  of  juice.  This  was  boiled  ten  minutes,  when  an 


JELLIES  AND  PRESERVES  301 

equal  measure  of  sugar  was  added.  It  "  jelled  "  about 
fifteen  minutes  later.  With  a  very  sweet,  too  ripe  pine- 
apple, a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  added  for  each  pint 
of  strained  pineapple  and  citron-melon  juice  would  prob- 
ably aid  the  flavor  and  shorten  the  process. 

With  both  the  rhubarb  and  orange  jellies  the  tests 
were  made  without  the  addition  of  any  other  fruit  juice 
or  rind,  but  ordinarily  the  flavor  might  be  better  liked  if 
some  grated  yellow  rind  of  orange  or  lemon  were  used. 
In  the  orange-citron-melon  jelly,  while  the  flavor  is  ex- 
cellent, it  is  not  pronouncedly  orange,  and  as  for  the 
rhubarb,  many  people  who  do  not  care  for  that  flavor 
alone  would  probably  like  the  jelly  with  orange  or  lemon 
added. 

Citron-melon  may  be  preserved  or  pickled  separately, 
like  watermelon,  and  dried  or  candied  for  use  in  cakes, 
mincemeat,  or  to  serve  as  a  confection.  It  may  also  be 
baked,  or  used  as  a  sauce,  as  are  apples ;  in  either  of 
these  forms  it  makes  an  acceptable  pie-filling — indeed, 
from  this  fact  came  its  old  name  of  "  pie-melon." 

Here  are  a  few  recipes  for  preparing  citron-melon 
alone : 

Dried  Citron  for  Cakes,  Mincemeat,  and  Confections 

To  dry  in  large  pieces,  quarter  the  melon,  peel  off 
outer  rind,  and  remove  seeds.  For  one  medium-sized 
melon,  dissolve  three  lumps  of  alum,  each  the  size  of  a 
large  pea,  in  two  quarts  of  soft  water,  and  place  them 
in  the  vessel  with  the  melon,  which  should  be  covered 
by  the  water.  Let  all  come  to  a  boil  and  cook  till  the 
melon  can  be  pierced  with  a  straw.  Drain,  place  in  an- 
other vessel  with  an  equal  measure  of  sugar  (no  water), 
and  boil  for  thirty  minutes.  Drain  out  on  a  buttered 


302  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  'BOOK 

sieve  or  plate,  and  let  dry  in  a  cool  oven  or  heater.     In 
about  five  weeks  it  should  be  ready  for  use. 

To  crystallize  citron-melon  in  smaller  pieces,  as  a  con- 
fection, remove  the  seeds  and  the  softer  pulp  near  them. 
Wash,  drain,  and  drop  into  boiling,  slightly  salted  water. 
Cook  till  barely  tender — it  must  not  get  too  soft.  Drain 
thoroughly,  and  place  in  a  syrup  made  with  an  equal 
measure  of  sugar  and  water,  cooked  till  moderately 
thick ;  then  when  the  melon  is  added,  cook  till  the  syrup 
is  "  ropy,"  and  drain  the  pieces  out  onto  a  buttered  sieve 
or  plate,  and  set  them  away  to  dry.  Grated  lemon  or 
orange-peel  or  any  preferred  spice  may  be  added  while 
the  melon  cooks. 

Baked  Citron-Melon  or  Same 

Pare  off  outer  rind  and  cut  into  pieces  about  two  by 
three  inches.  Remove  seeds,  wash,  and  drain.  Slice 
thin  one  lemon,  or  add  its  juice  and  rind,  for  each  pint 
of  melon  used;  add  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  about  a 
half-pint  of  sugar — the  exact  amount  depending  on  in- 
dividual taste.  Water  is  usually  not  necessary  if  the 
sauce  is  cooked  carefully  in  a  double-boiler,  although 
in  a  fireless  cooker  or  an  earthen  baking-dish  enough 
water  may  be  added  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  vessel. 
Cook  till  the  mixture  is  clear,  but  not  tpo  long  or  the 
pieces  will  lose  their  shape.  For  sauce,  however,  the 
melon  may  be  cooked  longer,  and  mashed  or  sieved  or 
put  through  a  colander,  being  then  put  back  on  the  stove 
to  cook  down  somewhat,  if  it  is  too  thin. 

Preserved  Citron-Melon 

Peel  and  cut  into  pieces  of  shape  and  size  preferred. 
For  each  pint  of  melon  allow  one-fourth  pint  of  water, 


JELLIES  AND  PRESERVES  303 

with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  If  a  rich  preserve  is  wished, 
allow  one  pound  of  sugar  and  two  sliced  lemons  for  each 
pound  of  citron.  For  a  more  simple  preserve,  allow 
seven  pounds  of  sugar  to  ten  of  melon  and  six  (or  more) 
lemons..  Cook  slowly  till  clear,  and  seal  when  the  mix- 
ture is  hot.  (Citron  is  sometimes  soaked  overnight  in 
rather  strong  salt  water,  then  drained  and  soaked  in 
clear  water  for  two  hours  before  draining  and  presev- 


Citron-Melon  Chips 

Peel  and  slice  the  melon  thin,  then  cut  it  into  strips 
or  half-inch  squares  and  remove  the  seeds.  Weigh,  and 
allow  an  equal  weight  of  sugar.  Mix,  and  let  stand 
overnight  in  a  bowl,  together  with  three  thin-sliced 
lemons  for  each  quart  of  chips.  In  the  morning  put  the 
melon  and  the  syrup  which  has  formed  into  a  preserving- 
kettle.  Simmer  —  skimming  meantime  —  till  the  syrup  is 
like  honey,  then  seal  hot.  Ginger-root  may  be  added  as 
well  as  lemon,  if  this  is  liked. 


Crab  Apple  Jelly 

Remove  stems  and  wash  fruit.  Cut  out  all  imperfect 
parts  and  the  blossom  end;  divide  into  quarters,  but  do 
not  pare.  Put  into  the  kettle  with  half  as  much  water, 
by  measure,  as  fruit.  Turn  into  bag  and  drain,  without 
squeezing.  Allow  equal  measures  of  juice  and  sugar. 
If  liked  less  sweet  use  only  three-fourths  sugar.  Heat 
the  juice,  boiling  twenty  minutes,  then  add  hot  sugar  and 
cook  until  it  jellies  on  a  cold  plate. 


304          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Rhubarb  Jelly 

Allow  one  part  by  measure  of  tart  apples  to  two  parts 
of  rhubarb  and  just  enough  water  to  start  cooking. 
When  tender,  drain,  and  proceed  as  in  other  jelly.  This 
is  clear,  tart,  and  especially  good  for  jelly  rolls. 

Quince  Jelly 

A  mixture  of  from  one-third  to  one -half  apples  im- 
proves quince.  Rub  the  quinces  with  a  coarse  cloth. 
For  every  two  quarts  of  fruit  add  one  of  water.  Sim- 
mer until  tender,  drain  without  squeezing,  and  make  into 
jelly  in  the  usual  way.  Take  the  parings  and  cores  and 
simmer  in  half  as  much  water  until  tender.  Strain  and 
add  to  the  pulp  left  in  the  bag.  Add  three- fourths  of  a 
pound  of  sugar  to  every  pound  of  pulp,  and  cook  slowly 
for  marmalade.  Long  cooking  will  give  a  beautiful  pink 
color. 

Barberry  Jelly 

Use  one  quart  of  barberries  and  one  cup  of  thorn  apple 
cooked  in  water  enough  to  cover.  Strain,  and  use  a  little 
more  than  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  a  pint  of  the  juice. 


Pink  Grape  Jelly 

Put  the  pulp  of  any  kind  of  ripe  grapes  into  the  kettle, 
using  as  little  water  as  possible  to  start  cooking.  When 
the  pulp  falls  to  pieces,  drain  without  squeezing.  Add 
lemon  juice  varying  from  one  to  four  tablespoonfuls  for 


JELLIES  AND  PRESERVES  305 

three  or  four  glasses  of  jelly,  according  to  the  ripeness 
of  the  grapes.  Use  equal  parts  of  sugar  and  the  juice  and, 
just  before  it  jellies,  a  tiny  speck  of  vegetable  pink  color- 
ing matter. 

Purple  Grape  Jelly 

Make  exactly  like  pink  jelly,  omitting  the  artificial 
coloring  matter,  but  add  skins.  Do  not  squeeze  the 
jelly  bag 

Green  Grape  Mint  Jelly 

Wash  the  desired  amount  of  unripe  green  grapes,  put 
them  in  a  preserving  kettle,  and  heat  until  they  can  be 
easily  crushed.  Add  to  each  pound  of  grapes  one  bunch 
of  fresh,  well-washed  mint  bruised  in  a  bowl,  and  cook 
until  the  grapes  are  soft  enough  to  drain.  Turn  this 
into  a  jelly  bag  and  let  it  drip,  and  then  measure  the 
amount.  Boil  the  juice  and  add  for  each  pint  one  scant 
pound  of  hot  sugar  and  boil  for  twelve  minutes,  or  until 
a  little  of  it  jellies  on  a  cold  plate.  Color  mint  green 
with  vegetable  coloring  liquid  and  fill  glasses. 


Pears  with  Ginger 

Soak  three- fourths  of  a  pound  of  green  ginger  root 
in  cold  water  for  two  days.  Drain  and  then  add  to  one 
pint  of  this  water,  five  pounds  of  sugar,  eight  pounds  of 
firm,  hard  unpeeled  pears,  without  cores,  and  cut  into 
pieces,  the  ginger  root  scraped  and  cut  in  thin  slices  and 
the  yellow  peel  and  juice  of  four  lemons.  Cook  this  for 


306    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

two  hours,   or   until   the   fruit   is   transparent   and   the 
syrup  thick. 

Barberry  Sauce 

To  one  quart  of  barberries  add  a  pint  of  water  and 
cook  one  hour;  then  add  three-fourths  of  a  quart  of 
sugar,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes  longer. 


Barberry  Preserve 

Barberries   may  be   preserved   in   white   vinegar  and 
used  as  a  garnish  for  meats. 


Pineapple  Preserved  Without  Cooking 

Peel  and  cut  a  pineapple  in  small  cubes  and  add  to  each 
pound  one  and  a  fourth  pounds  of  granulated  sugar. 
Turn  this  into  a  stone  crock,  stir  it  every  day  for  three 
days,  then  pack  it  into  cold,  sterilized  glass  jars,  and  seal. 
Serve  with  ice  cream  or  with  rolls  at  breakfast. 


Grape  Conserve 

A  basket  of  grapes,  one  and  one-half  pints  of  sugar, 
one  and  one-half  pounds  of  seeded  raisins,  half  a  pound 
of  walnut  meats.  Remove  pulp  from  grapes,  boil  five 
minutes.  Put  through  a  colander  to  remove  seeds  and 
boil.  Add  raisins,  sugar,  and  nut  meats  chopped  fine 
and  boil  about  thirty  minutes  until  thick.  This  is  de- 
licious either  with  meats  or  plain  blancmange. 


JELLIES  AND  PRESERVES  307 

Plum   Conserve 

Stone  and  chop  finely  ripe  damson  plums.  To  each 
quart  (after  they  are  chopped)  add  two  cupfuls  of 
chopped  and  seeded  raisins,  six  sour  oranges  chopped 
fine  with  some  of  the  yellow  peel  grated,  and  five  cupfuls 
of  sugar.  Cook  slowly  until  it  is  thick  and  transparent, 
and  turn  it  into  glass  jars. 

Green  Gage  Jam 

Wash,  but  do  not  peel,  six  pounds  of  plums,  remove 
the  stones  and  to  each  pound  of  fruit  add  three-fourths 
of  a  pound  of  sugar.  Dissolve  the  sugar  over  the  fire 
in  a  very  little  water,  a  third  of  a  cupful  to  each  pound, 
boil  and  skim.  Add  the  fruit  and  cook  it  quickly  until 
it  jellies.  This  is  the  English  method  of  making  jam. 

Grape  Marmalade 

Pulp  the  grapes  and  cook  the  pulps  until  tender.  Press 
through  a  sieve  and  add  to  the  skins,  allowing  three- 
fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  one  pound  of  fruit.  Cook 
slowly,  but  do  not  make  it  stiff. 

Plum  Butter 

Take  the  large  red  plums  that  grow  wild  in  some  sec- 
tions of  our  country  and  are  known  as  "  wild  goose " 
plums.  They  are  delicious  when  raw,  but  are  bitter  and 
sharp  when  cooked.  This  is  on  account  of  the  seed 
which  "  clings."  Cook  the  plums  until  tender  and  then 
put  through  a  sieve.  Mix  with  an  equal  amount  of  sweet 


308    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

apples  and  cook  until  mashed,  then  add  sugar  to  taste — 
almost  equal  parts.  Many  plums  are  impossible  when 
cooked.  If  they  are  put  in  clear  water  and  allowed  to 
heat  slowly  to  the  boiling  point,  this  objectionable  fea- 
ture, which  is  in  the  skin,  will  be  eliminated.  Throw 
away  that  water  and  proceed  to  can  or  preserve. 

Pear  and  Peach  Jam 

Take  equal  quantities  of  peaches  and  pears,  and  to 
every  quart  add  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  one  orange, 
and  the  peel  of  the  orange.  (Boil  the  orange  peel  in  two 
waters  and  drain,  then  cut  into  thin  strips,  and  add  to 
the  fruit.)  Allow  the  fruit  to  simmer,  uncovered,  for 
half  an  hour,  and  add  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  pound 
of  fruit.  If  you  have  ten  pounds  of  fruit  you  can 
safely  deduct  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  the  fruit  will  keep 
all  right.  Boil  slowly  about  ten  minutes  after  sugar  is 
added,  stirring  often  to  prevent  burning.  Pour  into 
jam  pots  and  cover  with  paraffin. 

Pear  and  Cranberry  Jam 

Take  two  parts  of  pears  and  one  part  of  cranberries, 
run  through  a  chopper  and  cook  as  above,  adding  the 
peel  of  an  orange  to  each  quart  of  pulp. 

Honeyed  Gooseberries 

Remove  each  seed  from  green  gooseberries  with  a 
long  needle,  so  as  to  keep  the  fruit  in  perfect  shape.  To 
each  pound  of  fruit  add  half  a  pound  of  white  honey. 
Stir  together  in  a  jar  and  allow  it  to  stand  three  days, 


JELLIES  AND  PRESERVES  309 

then  turn  into  a  preserving  kettle  and  heat  it  slowly. 
Let  it  simmer  until  the  berries  look  clear  and  the  juice 
is  thick,  which  will  take  about  half  an  hour.  Put  into 
small  jars  and  seal. 

Fruit  Preserve   (Apples,  Pears,  and  Plums) 

Peel  and  cut  into  small  pieces  the  apples  and  pears. 
Skin,  stone,  and  cut  up  the  plums.  Use  equal  propor- 
tions of  each  fruit  after  all  are  cut  up.  Use  a  pound  of 
sugar  to  each  poundi  of  fruit.  Boil  until  of  marmalade 
consistency.  Take  from  the  fire  and  add  a  handful  of 
blanched  almonds.  Seal  in  glasses. 

Euchred  Plums  and  Pears 

Nine  pounds  of  fruit,  six  pounds  of  white  sugar,  two 
quarts  of  vinegar,  one  ounce  of  cinnamon.  Boil  the 
vinegar  and  spice  together ;  pour  it  over  the  fruit,  which 
has  been  previously  placed  in  a  large  crock  or  bowl,  and 
let  it  stand  for  twenty-four  hours.  Pour  it  back  over  the 
fruit  in  the  bowl.  Repeat  the  process  for  five  mornings, 
the  last  time  boiling  the  fruit  about  fifteen  minutes.  Put 
in  canning  jars  and  cover  while  hot.  This  recipe  is  good 
also  for  peaches  or  prunes. 

% 

Sweet  Pickled  Peaches 

To  seven  pounds  of  peaches  allow  three  and  three- 
quarters  pounds  of  white  sugar,  one  quart  of  vinegar, 
two  ounces  of  stick  cinnamon.  Peel  the  peaches  and 
insert  one  or  two  cloves  in  each.  1  Boil  the  sugar  and 
vinegar  with  several  sticks  of  cinnamon,  for  five  minutes. 


310    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

then  put  in  the  peaches.  When  the  fruit  is  tender,  re- 
move it  carefully  from  the  syrup  and  put  it  in  jars. 
Boil  the  syrup,  reducing  it  nearly  half,  and  pour  it  over 
the  peaches  in  the  jars. 

Spiced  Peaches 

For  six  pounds  of  fruit  use  three  pounds  of  granu- 
lated sugar  and  one  pint  of  vinegar.  Into  each  peach 
insert  two  cloves.  Put  into  the  sugar  and  vinegar  one 
ounce  of  stick  cinnamon  (which  should  be  in  a  cheese- 
cloth bag),  and  boil.  When  the  mixture  is  boiling  hot 
place  the  fruit  in  it  and  cook  it  until  it  is  tender.  Put  it 
into  jars  and  seal  at  once. 

Rhubarb  Relish  (for  meat  course) 

Cut  into  small  pieces  one  cup  of  pie-plant  or  rhubarb. 
Add  one-half  cupful  of  water,  one  and  one-half  cupfuls 
of  sugar,  the  pulp  and  sliced  rind  of  a  lemon  and  an 
orange,  one-half  package  each  of  seeded  raisins  and  cur- 
rants. Cook  all  over  a  slow  fire.  Seal  in  glasses  when 
thick. 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  JELLIES      311 


3i2       MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  JELLIES 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  JELLIES      313 


314    MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  PRESERVES 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  PRESERVES    315 


316    MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  PRESERVES 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES 

N   the  cooking  of  vegetables  nutritive  value 
and  digestibility  need  not  be  sacrificed  when 
a    method    is    used    which    secures   the   best 
flavor    and    a    palatable    result.      First    one 
should    understand    that    the    framework    of 
vegetables,  known  as  cellulose,  and  the  starch 
which  most  contain,  are  almost  impossible  of 
digestion  in  their  raw  state.    These  must  be  softened  and 
changed  by  cooking,  or  the  vegetable  remains  incapable 
of  nourishment. 

Take  an  unripe  apple.  We  have  been  warned  against 
them  ever  since  we  made  our  first  furtive  trial  upon  for- 
bidden fruit.  The  green  apple  is  hard  and  woody  be- 
cause of  its  cellulose  framework.  Then  nature  sets  to 
work,  and  aided  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  forms  the  acids 
in  the  fruit,  and  the  hard,  cellulose  framework  in  part 
breaks  down  and  dissolves.  The  same  process  takes 
place  when  cabbage  is  changed  into  sauerkraut. 

In  general,  vegetables  need  long,  slow  cooking,  and  the 
drier,  the  more  compact  they  are,  the  longer  cooking 
and  more  moisture  they  need. 


Boiled  Asparagus 

All  green  vegetables,  roots,  and  tubers  should  be  crisp 
and  firm  and  thoroughly  clean  when  put  on  to  cook. 

317 


3i8    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

With  asparagus,  cut  off  the  woody  part  and  wash  well. 
If  this  is  to  be  cooked  in  the  casserole,  lay  it  in  with 
heads  all  in  one  direction,  and  half  cover  with  boiling 
water.  Cover  the  casserole  and  place  in  an  oven  suffi- 
ciently hot  so  the  water  will  simmer.  Cook  until  the 
asparagus  is  tender,  a  matter  of  from  twenty  to  forty 
minutes,  depending  upon  the  tenderness  and  freshness 
of  the  vegetable.  Serve  on  toast  with  or  without  a  thin 
cream  sauce;  or  the  juice  in  which  the  asparagus  has 
been  cooked  may  be  cooked  down,  a  little  cream  added, 
seasoned,  and  poured  over  the  asparagus.  The  water 
should  not  be  thrown  away,  for  valuable  salts  and  much 
flavor  are  held  in  it,  and  it  may  be  used  for  soup.  The 
asparagus  may  be  cut  into  short  pieces  if  desired..  One 
bunch  will  serve  four. 

Spinach 

Spinach  has  comparatively  little  food  value,  but  it  is 
valuable  in  other  ways.  It  is  a  most  abused  vegetable 
in  cooking.  It  is  not  difficult,  but  takes  much  time  and 
water  and  patience  to  prepare,  for  every  leaf  must  be 
scrupulously  clean  if  it  is  to  be  eaten  with  delight.  To 
clean  the  spinach,  cut  off  the  roots,  break  each  leaf  apart, 
and  drop  them  into  a  large  pan  of  cold  water.  Rinse  and 
put  in  another  pan,  letting  fresh  water  run  over  them. 
Continue  doing  this  until  there  is  not  a  trace  of  sand  or 
dirt  in  the  pan.  Drain  and  put  the  spinach  in  a  large 
kettle,  adding  for  a  half-peck  of  spinach  about  half  a 
cupful  of  water.  Cover  carefully  and  boil  ten  minutes. 
Pour  into  a  colander  to  drain.  Pour  cold  water 
over  it  and  let  it  thoroughly  drain.  Chop  fine  and 
reheat  in  milk,  cream,  or  butter,  and  serve.  Spinach 
holds  enough  water  for  ten  minutes  of  cooking. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES      319 

and  the  half-cupful  is  added  merely  for  precaution's 
sake.  The  spinach  should  be  pressed  down,  and  if  pos- 
sible, turned  over  once  during  the  cooking.  When  cooked 
in  this  way  the  vegetable  will  retain  its  salts  and  its  flavor 
and  be  much  more  delicately  palatable  than  when  boiled 
in  a  quantity  of  water  for  a  longer  time.  One-half  peck 
will  serve  four. 

Peas 

Peas  should  be  shelled  and  the  shells  put  in  a  sauce- 
pan and  covered  with  boiling  water.  Cook  for  thirty  min- 
utes, drain  and  put  the  shelled  peas  into  this  water;  add  a 
very  little  sugar,  if  liked,  put  in  the  casserole,  and  cook, 
simmering  slowly  until  the  peas  are  tender.  It  is  prac- 
tically impossible  to  give  the  time  of  cooking,  so  much 
depends  upon  the  freshness  and  maturity  of  the  peas. 
From  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  or  in  the  oven  from 
thirty  to  forty,  should  suffice.  They  must  not  be  over- 
done. Two  quarts  will  serve  four. 

String  Beans 

String  beans  should  be  blanched.  Free  them  from 
strings,  cut  up,  and  soak  in  cold  water,  for  a  longer  or 
shorter  time.  If  they  are  fresh  and  crisp,  twenty  minutes 
will  do;  if  wilted,  a  few  hours  are  needed.  Drain,  put 
them  into  rapidly  boiling,  salted  water,  and  boil  rapidly, 
cover  off,  for  ten  minutes.  Drain,  let  cold  water  run 
over  them,  then  put  them  in  the  casserole  with  one-half 
cupful  of  boiling  water  and  one  rounding  tablespoonful 
of  butter  for  each  quart  of  beans.  Cover  and  cook  for 
twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  medium  hot  oven. 
Do  not  overcook.  Season  and  serve.  One  quart  will 
serve  four. 


320    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Cauliflower,  cabbage,  and  brussels  sprouts  must  all 
be  soaked  for  thirty  minutes  in  cold  water  to  which  salt 
has  been  added  in  order  to  free  them  from  any  insects 
hidden  in  the  leaves.  Break  the  cauliflower  into  flow- 
erets and  cut  the  cabbage  in  pieces  if  the  casserole  is  to  be 
used.  Half  cover  ^  with  water  and  cook  in  the  oven,  the 
cabbage  for  an  hour  or  more,  depending  upon  its  age, 
the  cauliflower  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes. 

When  the  cabbage  is  nearly  done,  if  more  than  a 
little  water  remains,  pour  it  off  until  about  one-half  cup- 
ful is  left.  Add  one  rounding  tablespoonful  of  butter 
or  bacon  fat,  and  cook  uncovered  for  the  remainder  of  the 
time.  The  cauliflower  should  be  cooked  until  done, 
drained,  and  served  with  a  cream  or  hollandaise  sauce. 

Brussels  sprouts  should  be  prepared  for  cooking  by 
removing  any  outside  leaves  after  soaking,  and  putting 
in  the  casserole  with,  for  a  quart  of  sprouts,  one  cupful 
of  stock  and  one  rounding  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Cook  until  tender.  Remove  cover  of  the  casserole,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  add  more  butter  if  necessary, 
and  serve  without  sauce.  One  quart  will  serve  six. 

There  is  but  one  way  of  finding  out  when  vegetables 
are  done,  and  that  is  to  try  them.  Salt  should  be  added 
when  the  cooking  is  nearly  or  all  done,  and  the  time  for 
cooking  in  the  casserole  should  be  from  ten  to  forty 
minutes  more  than  cooking  on  the  stove.  They  do  not 
need  careful  watching  while  cooking  in  this  way,  and 
will  be  found  to  be  very  delicious. 

Baked   Lentils 

Wash  a  quart  of  lentils  and  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  quart  of  cold  water;  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  two  small  onions,  each  stuck  with  two 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES      321 

cloves,  two  or  three  red  peppers,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  bunch  of  garden  herbs,  including  plenty  of  parsley 
and  a  small  sprig  of  mint.  Place  in  the  pan,  well  covered, 
over  a  moderate  fire  until  the  water  has  been  absorbed 
and  the  lentils  are  soft,  but  not  pulpy.  This  should  not 
take  more  than  half  an  hour.  Then  take  out  the  herbs, 
onions,  and  cloves,  put  the  lentils  into  a  buttered  earthen- 
ware dish,  cover  the  top  with  a  light  layer  of  browned 
bread  crumbs  and  chopped  parsley  mixed,  dot  it  over 
with  tiny  pieces  of  butter,  and  bake  it  in  a  quick  oven 
just  long  enough  to  give  it  a  rich  brown  crispness. 
Serve  with  a  good  brown  gravy.  Pork  or  beef  can  be 
boiled  with  the  lentils  if  the  flavor  of  meat  is  desired. 
If  German  lentils  are  used  in  carrying  out  this  recipe, 
•they  should  be  soaked  at  least  twenty-four  hours,  and 
then  boiled  in  the  water  in  which  they  were  soaked  to 
secure  the  best  results. 


Lentil  and  Mushroom  Cutlets 

Prepare  a  quart  of  lentils  as  in  the  recipe  for  baked 
lentils.  Add  to  them  half  a  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms, 
previously  cooked  in  their  own  liquor,  and  lightly  fla- 
vored with  mace.  Set  aside  the  liquor  for  gravy  and  add 
to  the  lentils  and  mushrooms  two  tablespoonfuls  of  red 
currant  jelly,  two  cupfuls  of  fine  browned  bread  crumbs, 
a  dessertspoonful  of  meat  extract,  or  more  if  required  to 
take  up  the  moisture  of  the  browned  bread  crumbs,  a  little 
red  pepper,  and  celery  salt.  Add  three  unbeaten  eggs,  one 
at  a  time,  until  the  mixture  is  well  bound  together.  Shape, 
brush  with  egg,  coat  with  browned  bread  crumbs,  and  fry 
in  deep  fat,  as  you  would  chicken  cutlets.  With  the 
cutlets  serve  a  well-seasoned  brown  gravy,  using  mush- 


322     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

room  liquor  as  foundation  and  adding  at  the  last  mo- 
ment another  small  spoonful  of  the  red  currant  jelly. 
One-half  this  recipe  will  serve  eight. 


Baked  Lentils  and  Cheese 

Prepare  the  lentils  as  for  baked  lentils,  but  sprinkle 
three  layers  of  grated  cheese  into  the  baking  dish  between 
layers  of  lentils.  On  the  top  put  thick  slices  of  fine  ripe 
tomatoes,  arranged  thickly,  so  as  to  cover  the  lentils. 
Over  the  tomatoes  sprinkle  finely  chopped  parsley  and  in 
the  center  of  each  slice  of  tomato  put  a  tiny  piece  of 
butter.  Bake  quickly  and  serve  hot  with  or  without 
gravy. 

Red  Kidney  Beans  with  Cheese  in  Chafing  Dish 

Put  two  tablespoon fuls  of  butter  in  the  blazer,  add 
one  can  of  red  kidney  beans,  one  small  green  pepper 
minced  finely,  and  a  little  onion  or  minced  chives  if  liked. 
Cook  until  the  peppers  are  tender.  Add  one  and  one-half 
cupfuls  of  grated  cheese,  and  when  melted  serve  on 
toast. 

Mint-glazed  Carrots 

Wash  and  scrape  three  carrots  and  cut  in  one-fourth 
inch  slices.  Parboil  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  drain, 
put  into  a  saucepan  with  one-third  cupful  each  of  sugar 
and  butter,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  mint  leaves. 
Cook  very  slowly  until  glazed  and  perfectly  tender. 
Serve  hot,  and  as  a  border  surrounding  a  mound  of 
green  peas. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES      323 
Mashed  Carrots 

Scrape  the  carrots,  wash  them,  and  lay  them  in  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour.  Cook  until  tender  in  boiling 
water ;  then  drain  and  mash  with  butter  as  desired,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  put  in  a  vegetable  dish,  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Corn  Pudding 

Grate  twelve  ears  of  sweet  corn.  Add  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Fold  in  the  yolks  and  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  sep- 
arately. Bake  this  in  a  well-buttered  casserole  dish,  in  a 
quick  oven,  for  forty-five  minutes. 

Onions  and  Cheese 

Wash  and  peel  four  large  onions,  and  cut  them  into 
slices  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Butter  a  baking-dish 
and  lay  the  slices  in  it,  placing  them  close  together. 
Sprinkle  the  onions  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bake  half 
an  hour,  or  until  the  onions  are  tender,  then  cover  each 
slice  thickly  with  grated  cheese,  put  in  the  oven  again 
and  serve  when  cheese  is  melted  and  browned.  Serve  in 
the  baking-dish  or  lift  out  on  to  a  hot  platter.  Individual 
casseroles  can  be  used  to  advantage  when  preparing 
onions  in  this  way. 

Roast  Nut  and  Barley  Loaf 

Make  a  brown  sauce  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  olive 
oil,  one-half  of  a  cupful  of  browned  flour,  and  use  water 


324    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

or  vegetable  stock  for  thinning;  chop  one  large  onion 
fine,  and  fry  it  in  one  tablespoonful  of  oil  or  butter, 
then  mix  the  onion  and  the  sauce  with  two  cupfuls  of 
cold  boiled  pearl  barley,  one  cupful  of  finely  ground 
roasted  peanuts,  one  cupful  of  fine  bread  crumbs,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 
With  the  hands,  mold  into  a  loaf,  place  in  a  roasting  pan 
which  has  been  well  buttered  and  let  cook  in  the  oven 
for  ten  minutes;  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  one  cupful  of  hot  water,  and  baste  every  five  minutes 
for  half  an  hour.  Make  brown  sauce  in  the  same  pan 
and  serve  with  caper  sauce. 

Baked  Celery  with  Cheese 

Wash  celery,  cut  in  one-inch  pieces,  and  soak  in  boiling 
salted  water  until  tender.  Drain  and  reserve  stock. 
With  it  make  a  sauce,  using  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Add  the  drained  celery, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  half  a  cupful  of  grated  cheese.  Pour  into  a 
buttered  baking-dish,  cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  and 
bake  until  the  crumbs  are  delicately  browned. 

Baked  Hominy 

Mash  enough  left-over  hominy  to  fill  an  ordinary  bak- 
ing-dish after  all  the  lumps  are  eliminated.  Add  two 
eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  salt,  pep- 
per, and  about  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  to  make  a  stiff 
batter.  Put  all  this  in  a  dish  and  bake  three-quarters 
of  an  hour. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES      325 
Italian  Polenta 

Make  a  desired  quantity  of  Indian  meal  mush,  stirring 
it  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and 
when  quite  thick  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  little 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  an  egg  beaten  until  light. 
Beat  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  pour  into  bread 
tins,  moistened  with  cold  water,  and  set  away  to  cool. 
When  it  is  cold,  cut  into  one-half  inch  slices,  and  put 
in  layers  in  a  buttered  baking-dish,  sprinkle  with  grated 
cheese,  and  add  a  little  butter  to  each  layer.  Bake  in  a 
slow  oven  until  the  melted  cheese  has  formed  a  crisp 
brown  coating  over  the  polenta.  Make  a  thick  sauce  of 
concentrated  tomatoes  and  pour  over  while  very  hot,  and 
immediately  before  serving. 

Macaroni  Savory  in  Chafing  Dish 

Boil  and  blanch  macaroni  and  drain  one  quart  of  it. 
In  the  meantime  mince  two  small  green  peppers  and  two 
small  onions.  When  ready  to  serve,  cook  the  peppers 
and  onions  in  half  a  cupful  of  olive  oil  in  the  blazer  for 
fifteen  minutes,  tossing  them  constantly.  Add  one  cup- 
ful of  tomatoes  and  half  a  cupful  of  grated  cheese.  When 
the  cheese  is  melted,  dust  with  salt,  and  serve  with  the 
macaroni  in  ramekins. 

Spaghetti 

Break  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  Italian  spaghetti  into 
pieces  one  inch  long  and  sprinkle  into  plenty  of  boiling 
water.  Add  two  rounded  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a 
small  onion  sliced  thin.  Cook  it  slowly  for  one  hour. 


326    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

The  spaghetti  should  then  be  well  done  and  the  water 
boiled  down  to  a  creamy  liquid.  Ten  minutes  before 
serving  add  a  cupful  of  finely  grated  cheese  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce.  If  this  is  not  a  sufficient 
amount  of  the  sauce,  add  enough  to  flavor  the  spaghetti 
to  taste.  Serve  the  spaghetti  with  a  little  grated  cheese 
over  the  top  and  garnish  with  finely  chopped  parsley. 

Mushrooms  Baked  under  Glass 

Pare  the  mushrooms  and  cut  off  the  stems.  Put  thin 
slices  of  toast,  browned  only  on  the  underside,  on  the 
nappies  which  come  with  the  bells.  Saute  the  mush- 
rooms very  delicately  in  butter  and  place  them  on  the 
toast.  Cover  with  the  bells  and  bake  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Take  from  the 
oven,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  hot  cream,  a  little  salt  and 
pepper  to  each  nappy,  re-cover  with  bells,  and  serve. 
Some  of  the  recipes  say  to  saute  the  mushrooms  in  the 
butter,  add  the  cream,  and  simmer.  Then  put  on  the 
toast  and  simply  heat  in  the  oven.  When  this  method  is 
used  the  greatest  care  has  to  be  employed  not  to  let  the 
cream  cook.  The  first  method  insures  better  results  in 
cooking  the  mushrooms  without  burning  and  sticking, 
and  produces,  therefore,  a  more  delicate  flavor. 

French  Peas,  Normandy  Style 

Cut  two  thin  slices  of  bacon  into  small  dice,  and  place 
in  a  saute  pan  with  four  small  onions,  sliced.  Cook 
until  the  onions  begin  to  brown;  add  the  liquor  from 
one  can  of  small  peas,  and  cook  until  the  onions  are 
thoroughly  tender.  Add  the  peas,  salt,  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  If  necessary  to 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES     327 

thicken,  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  well-beaten  yolk  of 
one  egg  at  once,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  thickens. 
There  should  be  enough  heat  to 'cook  the  egg  without 
keeping  it  over  the  fire.  There  is  danger  in  too  much 
cooking,  for  fear  the  egg  yolk  will  cook  hard,  and  there- 
fore separate.  Serve  at  once. 


Summer  Squash 

Slice  a  good-sized  onion  into  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
gutter  or  olive  oil.  When  slightly  browned,  add  a  sum- 
mer squash  cut  into  small  dice.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Cover  and  cook  until  squash  is  tender. 

Boiled  Jerusalem  Artichokes 

Put  one  pound  of  artichokes  into  cold  water.  Scrape 
the  artichokes  with  small  knife  until  they  are  white  all 
over,  then  put  them  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water.  Cook  them 
vigorously  for  a  good  half-hour,  then  strain  the  water 
off  and  serve  very  hot  with  plenty  of  butter,  pepper,  and 
a  little  salt. 

Fried  Celery 

Make  a  batter  with  two  cupfuls  of  flour  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  well  sifted  together,  one  and 
a  half  cupfuls  of  milk,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  cup- 
ful of  melted  butter,  and  a  speck  of  salt.  Cut  as  many 
stalks  of  celery  as  desired  in  pieces  three  or  four  inches 
in  length,  and  cook  in  boiling  salted  water  until  tender. 
Drain  and  let  dry  on  a  platter;  dip  them  into  the  batter 
until  well  coated  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  brown.  Serve 
on  a  flat  dish  with  a  border  of  celery  leaves. 


328          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Smothered  Tomatoes 

Cut  six  small  tomatoes  in  halves  crosswise.  Arrange 
them  in  a  baking  pan,  with  the  skin  side  down.  Pour 
over  them  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  some 
finely  minced  parsley.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt  and 
cover  over  with  another  pan  and  cook  until  they  are  soft. 

Tomato  Curry 

Cook  one  tablespoonful  of  minced  celery,  one  of  mincejl 
green  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  minced  onion  in  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  lay  in  four  large  slices  of  tomato 
which  have  been  rolled  in  flour  and  cornmeal  mixed, 
and  cook  them  on  both  sides  without  breaking  them. 
Have  toast  covered  with  finely  minced  chicken  or  lamb, 
and  lay  a  slice  of  tomato  on  each.  Add  to  the  pan  one 
teaspoonful  each  of  corn  starch  and  curry  powder  dis- 
solved in  one-half  cupful  of  cream.  When  boiling  pour 
over  the  tomatoes.  The  meat  may  be  omitted. 

Tomatoes  a  la  Tom 

Cook  slowly  three  slices  of  bacon  diced.  Remove  the 
veins  and  seeds  from  four  green  peppers  and  cut  in 
small  pieces.  Peel  four  medium-sized  onions  and  cut 
in  small  pieces.  Add  the  peppers  and  onions  to  the  bacon 
and  cook  until  a  nice  brown.  Remove  to  a  covered  dish 
to  keep  hot.  Slice  six  large  ripe  tomatoes  and  dip  each  in 
flour  in  which  salt  and  pepper  has  been  dusted.  Fry  in 
half  butter  and  half  lard.  Turn  them  carefully  and 
brown  on  both  sides.  Remove  to  a  platter  and  pour  the 
bacon,  peppers,  and  onions  over  them.  Pour  over  all  a 
cream  sauce  made  of  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES     329 

smooth  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  the  same  frying- 
pan.    Add  one  cupful  of  milk  and  cook  until  thick. 

Tomato  Rabbit 

Cook  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion  in  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  five  minutes.  Add  one  cupful  of  to- 
matoes, cook  two  minutes,  and  strain.  In  a  saucepan, 
or  the  blazer  of  the  chafing  dish,  melt  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  three- 
fourths  of  a  cupful  of  thin  cream.  Cook  until  thickened, 
then  add  two  cupfuls  of  cheese  cut  in  dice  or  thinly 
shaved,  the  tomato,  and  one-half  teaspoon ful  each  of 
mustard  and  salt,  and  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  paprika. 
Stir  until  cheese  is  melted  and  the  mixture  is  smooth. 
Add  two  slightly  beaten  eggs,  cook  one  minute,  and 
serve  on  toast  or  heated  crackers. 

Rice  with  Tomato  and  Cheese 

Pick  over  and  wash  half  a  cupful  of  rice.  Place  in 
the  upper  part  of  a  double  boiler  with  three  cupfuls  of 
boiling  water,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Add  one  cupful  of 
tomato  puree,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  chopped  onion  and  green  pepper,  cooked 
until  soft  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Cook  in  the 
double  boiler,  without  stirring,  until  the  rice  is  soft,  then 
add  half  a  cupful  of  grated  cheese.  Stir  with  a  fork 
and  .serve  as  soon  as  the  cheese  is  melted. 

Cabbage  Hors  d'Oeuvre 

Two  cupfuls  of  raw  cabbage,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
chives,  one  fresh  red  pepper,  and  a  few  olives.  Chop  all 
separately  and  cover  with  a  French  dressing. 


330  THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Celery  Croquettes 

Cut  the  outer  green  stalks  of  a  bunch  of  celery  into 
small  pieces  and  boil  in  slightly  salted  water  until  very 
tender ;  drain  and  mash  to  a  paste,  adding  a  small  cupful 
of  grated  bread  crumbs,  a  high  seasoning  of  salt  and  pep- 
per, the  yolk  of  one  hard-cooked  egg,  blended  with  a 
quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cream  sauce,  and  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg ; 
mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly  and,  with  floured  hands, 
form  into  small  croquettes,  frying  in  deep  fat  (any 
vegetable  oil)  to  a  golden  brown;  serve  on  a  folded 
napkin,  inserting  in  the  top  of  each  a  sprig  of  parsley, 
attached  to  a  small  toothpick. 


Black  Bean  Soup 

Soak  a  quart  of  the  beans  all  night.  In  the  morning 
turn  off  the  water  and  cover  them  with  boiling  water  for 
half  an  hour;  drain  again  and  add  two  cjuarts  of  boiling 
water,  slightly  salted.  Boil  slowly  until  the  beans  are 
broken  to  pieces.  Rub  through  a  sieve  back  into  the 
pot  with  the  water  in  which  they  were  boiled,  and  pour 
in  upon  the  puree  a  quart  of  good  stock.  Simmer  for 
half  an  hour;  season  with  onion  juice,  salt,  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Thicken  with  a  roux  of  browned  .flour  rubbed 
to  a  paste  with  butter,  using  a  tablespoonful  of  each  to 
a  pint,  then  cook  for  a  minute,  boil  up  once,  and  it  is 
ready  to  serve.  Have  ready  diced  or  fried  bread  to 
put  upon  the  surface  when  it  goes  into  the  tureen  or  into 
plates.  Some  prefer  sliced  lemon,  peeled,  and  laid  upon 
the  top  of  the  soup,  to  the  fried  bread. 


Celery  Croquettes. 
Recipe  given  on  Page  jjo. 


Shad  Roe  Croquettes. 
Recipe  given  on  Page  165. 


Lentils,  Garnished  with  Cress  and  Celery  Hearts.    A  Salad 

Dressing  may  be  added  if  liked. 
Directions  for  Cooking  the  Lentils  on  Page  320. 


Green  Peppers  Stuffed  with  Cauliflower. 
Recipe  given  on  Page  332. 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES      331 
Belgian  Corn  Fritters 

To  one  can  of  corn  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs  and  one  cupful  of  flour  which  has  been  sifted  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt,  and  one-third  teaspoonful  of  paprika.  Beat  well 
together,  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped 
parsley.  Fold  in  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs. 
Cook  in  a  frying  pan,  preferably  in  bacon  fat,  dropping 
a  large  tablespoonful  in  the  pan.  Fry  golden  brown  on 
each  side  and  serve  garnished  with  strips  of  bacon. 

Mint   Peas 

Cook  the  peas  in  the  regular  way,  but  add  one  or  two 
mint  sprigs  while  cooking.  This  adds  a  delicate  flavor 
of  mint. 


Mock  Beef  a  la  Mode 

Beef  a  la  mode  is  a  substantial  dish.  Cut  a  Hubbard 
squash  into  thick  slices,  remove  the  outer  skin  and  the 
pithy  inside  portion  which  contains  the  seeds.  Butter  a 
deep  stone  baking-dish.  Arrange  a  layer  of  the  squash; 
dust  with  salt  and  pepper ;  add  a  thinly  sliced  onion  and 
a  layer  of  tender  carrots,  thinly  sliced,  with  a  thin  cover- 
ing of  chopped  parsley.  Repeat  with  alternate  layers 
until  the  dish  is  full,  and  then  fill  up  with  beef-stock. 
Cover  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours.  Make 
a  thick  brown  gravy  with  some  more  stock;  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce  or  mushroom-ketchup; 
arrange  squash  cutlets  and  other  vegetables  on  a  heated 


332    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  it.  Garnish  with  small  yel- 
low turnips  which  have  been  boiled,  and  fried  hominy. 
Serve  with  potatoes  and  tender  cabbage.  Remember,  a 
large  Hubbard  squash  must  be  used  for  this  dish.  When 
properly  cooked  you  can  hardly  detect  that  no  meat  has 
been  used. 

Red  Cabbage 

Wash  a  large  head,  quarter,  shred  fine,  wash  again,  and 
drain.  Put  a  lump  of  drippings  in  a  deep  skillet,  test 
with  shredded  onion;  when  the  onion  browns  put  in  the 
cabbage,  stir  well,  add  boiling  water  to  cover,  and  cook 
an  hour.  Then  add  three  large  apples,  sliced  thin,  and 
a  small  pinch  of  salt;  let  boil  ten  minutes,  then  stir  in  a 
level  tablespoonful  of  flour  wet  smooth  in  three  spoon- 
fuls of  vinegar.  Boil  up,  and  serve  hot.  A  variant,  much 
approved  in  some  kitchens,  is  to  slice  sweet  potatoes  in- 
stead of  apples.  Finish  the  same. 


Green  Peppers  Stuffed  with  Cauliflower 

Cut  a  thin  slice  from  the  stem  end  of  large  green 
peppers  and  remove  seeds.  Parboil  ten  minutes  and  fill 
with  creamed  cauliflower.  Sprinkle  tops  with  buttered 
crumbs  and  bake  until  skins  are  tender,  basting  occa- 
sionally with  butter  and  water. 


Okra 

Test   with  the   thumb-nail.     Unless   the   nail   cuts   it 
freely  the  pods  are  too  tough.     But  do  not  throw  away 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES      333 

the  tough  ones.  Shell  the  seed  from  them  and  either 
dry  to  use  in  soups,  or  to  cook  alone,  when  they  should 
be  served  with  butter,  vinegar,  and  salt.  Cut  stems  off 
the  pods,  cook  whole  those  half-grown  or  under,  but  cut 
those  more  mature  into  half-inch  slices.  Boil  tender, 
in  water  very  slightly  salted.  When  a  fork  pierces  them 
readily  they  are  cooked  enough.  Drain  them  well,  lay 
in  a  deep  pan  or  hot  dish,  dress  liberally  with  butter, 
pepper,  salt,  and  vinegar,  and  set  for  five  minutes  in  a 
hot  oven.  They  should  be  served  very  hot. 


Mock  Pork 

Mock  pork  requires  squash,  but  the  white,  summer 
variety.  Select  a  nicely  shaped,  large  squash.  Be  sure 
not  to  get  one  that  looks  at  all  yellow,  for  if  you  do  it 
will  have  to  be  peeled,  which  is  undesirable,  as  peeled 
squash  is  apt  to  fall  to  pieces  in  the  cooking.  Cut  a 
circle  with  a  sharp  knife  all  around  the  squash,  and  re- 
move, to  enable  you  to  scoop  out  the  seeds ;  then  fill  with 
the  following  dressing :  One  pint  of  stale  bread  crumbs ; 
one  onion  chopped  fine ;  one-half  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
sage ;  a  teaspoonful  of  dried  mustard ;  two  ounces  of 
butter  cut  into  small  pieces;  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  pepper;  mix  thoroughly;  moisten  with  two  beaten 
eggs.  After  the  squash  is  filled,  replace  the  piece  that 
was  cut  out,  put  into  a  baking  pan,  and  cook  for  two 
hours.  Use  bacon  or  pork  drippings  to  baste  with.  To 
make  the  gravy  which  should  accompany  it,  fry  a  sliced 
onion  golden  brown  in  butter;  add  pepper  a'nd  salt  to 
taste,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk;  stir  constantly,  cook  until 
golden  brown,  and  the  consistency  of  thick  cream.  Put 
the  baked  squash  on  a  hot  platter;  pile  up  a  wall  of 


334     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

apple  sauce  around  it ;  mashed  turnips  and  new  potatoes 
are  the  nicest  vegetables  to  serve  with  it. 


Escallop  of  Green  Corn 

Eight  small  or  six  large  ears  of  tender  corn,  one  quart 
of  ripe  tomatoes,  a  half-pint  of  mild  onions,  heaping 
tablespoonful  butter,  teaspoonful  sugar,  half-teaspoonful 
salt,  dust  of  black  pepper  or  one  large  green  pepper 
shredded  fine.  Peel  tomatoes,  cut  in  thick  slices,  slice 
onions  thin,  blanch,  and  drain,  cut  corn  from  cob,  saving 
all  the  milk,  put  a  layer  over  the  bottom  of  an  earthen 
dish,  cover  with  sliced  tomatoes  and  onions,  then  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  sugar,  and  dot  with  bits  of  butter  and 
shreds  of  pepper.  Repeat  till  dish  is  full,  putting  plenty 
of  butter  on  top,  pour  over  the  milk  from  the  corn,  and 
bake  in  a  very  hot  oven  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes. 
Serve  hot  or  cold.  If  served  cold,  with  a  sharp  French 
dressing  or  a  boiled  vinegar  dressing,  it  makes  a  satis- 
fying salad. 

Summer  Hot  Pot 

Select  medium-sized  tomatoes  which  are  just  ripe,  but 
nothing  more,  for  they  must  be  quite  solid.  Dip  in  scald- 
ing water,  to  loosen  their  skins :  peel,  and  cut  into  quar- 
ters or  halves,  according  to  size.  Put  a  layer  at  the 
bottom  of  a  casserole ;  then  a  layer  of  onions.  They 
should  not  be  any  larger  than  marbles.  Next  a  layer  of 
potatoes,  cut  into  slices;  scatter  a  little  chopped  parsley 
with  salt  and  pepper ;  repeat  with  more  tomatoes  and  the 
different  ingredients  until  you  have  enough  for  your 
family.  Barely  cover  with  meat  stock,  bring  to  the  boil, 


JUST  HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES     335 

then  draw  back  where  it  will  slowly  simmer  for  an  hour 
or  bake  in  an  oven.  We  like  either  cauliflower  and  peas, 
or  asparagus  and  spinach  with  it. 

Steamed  Squash  in  Shell 

Carefully  cut  the  top  from  a  squash  preferably  oval  in 
shape,  though  the  round  ones  may  be  used.  Steam  it 
until  tender.  Scrape  out  the  pulp  and  pass  it  through  a 
vegetable  sieve  or  mash  it  and  beat  until  very  smooth. 
Make  a  cream  sauce :  melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  when  blended,  one 
cupful  of  milk.  Season  highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
cook  until  thickened,  stirring  to  prevent  lumps.  Beat 
into  the  squash  pulp,  season  again  if  not  sufficient,  and 
pack  the  mixture  into  the  shell.  "Cover  with  buttered 
crumbs  and  a  sprinkle  of  Parmesan  cheese.  Brown  in  a 
hot  oven,  and  serve  from  the  shell. 

Stuffed  Eggplant 

Cut  in  halves  without  peeling,  cook  in  boiling  salted 
water  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  pulp,  chop,  and  mix  with 
one  cupful  of  stale  bread  crumbs.  Season  with  salt,  pep- 
per, butter,  and  onion  juice.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  cool, 
add  one  beaten  egg,  and  fill  the  eggplant  halves.  Cover 
with  buttered  crumbs  and  bake  twenty-five  minutes. 

Hulled  Corn 

One  quart  of  corn,  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  sale- 
ratus  put  into  a  kettle  of  water  on  the  stove.  Keep  the 
corn  covered  with  two  or  three  inches  of  water,  and  boil 


336    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

until  ,you  can  take  a  kernel  in  your  fingers  and  slip  off 
the  hull.  Remove  from  stove  and  wash  in  three  or  four 
waters;  then  boil  until  tender. 


Corn  Cakes  to  Serve  with  Meat 

One  cupful  of  canned  corn,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  cupful  of  flour,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  three- 
fourths  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  baking 
powder,  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  To  the  corn  add 
milk,  sugar,  and  eggs  well  beaten.  Mix  and  sift  salt,  flour, 
and  baking  powder.  Combine  mixtures,  drop  by  spoon- 
fuls into  hot  buttered  muffin-ring  set  in  a  buttered  baking- 
pan,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  firm.  A  delicious 
accompaniment  to  roast  beef. 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  VEGETABLES    337 


338   MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  VEGETABLES 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  VEGETABLES    339 


340    MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  VEGETABLES 


MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  VEGETABLES    341 


342    MORE  WAYS  OF  COOKING  VEGETABLES 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  PICKLES 


LMOST  every  one  who  has  made  brine  pickles 
has  had  the  maddening  experience  of  having 
them  turn  soft.  In  factories  this  has  caused 
much  loss  of  money — in  Michigan,  for  ex- 
ample, the  loss  from  this  cause  is  estimated 
at  an  average  of  about  $1,000  a  year  for  each 
factory ;  in  homes  it  has  caused  much  loss  of 
labor  and  temper,  for  what  is  true  of  the  factory's 
tank  in  regard  to  pickle  softening  is  just  as  true  of 
the  housewife's  two-gallon  crock.  The  difference  is 
that  whereas  the  factory  has  been  able  to  carry  on  ex- 
pensive investigations  into  the  cause  of  pickle  spoilage, 
the  housewife  could  only  hope  for  better  luck  next  year. 
Now,  however,  the  time  has  come  when  the  housewife 
can,  if  she  will,  make  use  of  the  factory's  knowledge. 

Investigations  of  especially  noteworthy  thoroughness 
have  been  made  by  Dr.  Otto  Rahn,  who  is  in  charge  of 
the  canners'  fund  of  the  University  of  Illinois.  His  work 
occupied  a  period  of  six  months;  but  as  six  calendar 
months  mean  three  pickle  years  practically  every  char- 
acteristic of  the  conditions  likely  to  be  met  with  in  brine 
pickling  is  covered  thereby.  Dr.  Rahn,  setting  out  to 
understand  the  normal  brine  pickle  from  the  very  begin- 
ning, first  ascertained  just  what  happens  to  a  cucumber  to 
change  it  into  a  pickle.  In  this  connection,  he  discovered 
one  very  interesting  fact :  it  is  not  the  salt  in  the  brine 
that  causes  the  pickle  to  keep.  Salt,  and  that  in  good 
measure,  is  absolutely  necessary  to  pickle  keeping,  but 

343 


344     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

salt  alone  is  not  enough.  The  essential  factor  in  keeping 
brine  pickles  is  the  acid,  probably  lactic  acid,  which  forms 
through  the  action  of  bacteria.  Many  manufacturers  do 
not  know  that  their  brine  contains  acid,  yet  the  instant  it 
does  not  contain  it  the  pickle  is  on  the  way  to  destruction. 

There  are  no  bacteria  in  a  healthy  cucumber,  nor  are 
there  any  in  strong  brine ;  then  how  do  they  get  into  the 
pickle-tank?  They  ride  in  in  thousands  on  the  outside 
of  the  cucumber,  especially  if  a  little  soil  adheres.  Im- 
mersion in  strong  brine  finishes  the  life  story  of  most  of 
them,  but  a  few  regard  it  as  a  chance  to  prove  themselves. 
And  from  within  the  cucumber  comes  their  food.  The 
cucumbers  shrink  in  the  brine,  giving  off  water,  and  with 
it  sugar,  and  other  traces  of  bacterial  food.  Sugar  is 
especially  acceptable  to  the  busy  bacteria,  and  the  kinds 
that  can  tolerate  the  salt  immediately  begin  to  grow  and 
decompose  the  sugar.  Acid  and  gas  follow  upon  this 
decomposition.  The  gas  escapes  and  makes  the  familiar 
froth,  while  the  acid  reveals  its  presence  by  its  action 
upon  the  color  of  the  pickles,  turning  their  grass-green- 
ness to  the  olive-green  everywhere  recognized  as  the  cor- 
rect tint  for  pickles.  When  the  frothing  ceases,  the  acid 
becomes  fairly  strong,  and  as  it  is  a  rather  capable  dis- 
infectant, it  will  kill  most  of  the  bacteria  in  the  brine. 

But  the  trouble  is,  that  there  is  more  than  just  this  acid 
formed  in  the  brine.  The  brine  and  the  cucumbers  in 
combination  possess  not  alone  the  power  of  establishing 
their  own  preservation,  but  also  the  power  of  bringing 
about  their  own  destruction.  Besides  the  bacteria,  a 
skum-yeast  is  always  present  in  the  brine.  This  skum- 
yeast  destroys  the  lactic  acid,  and  leaves  the  pickles  open 
to  destruction.  Were  the  growth  of  this  skum-yeast  pre- 
vented so  that  the  acid  would  remain  in  the  brine,  pickles 
undoubtedly  could  be  kept  for  centuries. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  PICKLES          345 

But  the  encouraging  fact  brought  by  the  investigations 
is  that  the  prevention  of  skum-yeast  is  not  impossible  or 
even  excessively  difficult.  Skimming  it  off  is  an  ineffi- 
cient and  unsatisfactory  method  of  getting  rid  of  it,  be- 
cause it  always  grows  in  again ;  but  it  cannot  tolerate 
sunlight,  and  it  must  have  air.  The  old-fashioned  out- 
door tanks  were  not  bothered  much  with  skum-yeast; 
trouble  started  when  the  roof  was  built.  As  for  the 
necessity  of  air  to  skum-yeast,  that  is  attested  by  the  very 
fact  that  it  grows  as  a  skum.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
bacterium  which  forms  the  acid  in  the  brine  has  just  the 
opposite  characteristic — it  avoids  the  air.  Sunlight,  too, 
would  kill  it,  but  it  grows  at  the  bottom  of  the  tank,  or 
jar,  where  there  is  no  light.  So  it  becomes  apparent  that 
whatever  shuts  the  air  from  brine  pickles  encourages  the 
presence  of  acid,  and  also  discourages  the  skum-yeast. 

Dr.  Rahn's  experiments  proved  this  point  very  clearly. 
He  experimented  with  pickles  in  glass  jars  and  also  in 
barrels,  with  precisely  similar  results.  In  the  case  of  the 
barrels,  six  barrels  of  cucumbers  were  brined  in  the  usual 
way ;  then  three  of  them  were  kept  open,  while  the  other 
three  were  covered  with  about  two  inches  of  cottonseed 
oil,  after  the  barrels  were  headed  up,  air-tight,  with  but 
one  small  hole  for  the  gas  to  escape.  All  six  barrels 
fermented  normally,  but  at  the  end  of  twenty-two  months 
the  pickles  in  the  three  open  barrels  were  so  soft  that  they 
could  not  be  taken  out  without  falling  to  pieces,  while 
those  in  the  closed  barrels  were  in  first-class  condition 
and  of  excellent  flavor.  The  brine  of  the  open  barrels 
showed  no  trace  of  acid,  in  fact,  it  was  slightly  alkaline, 
while  the  brine  under  oil  had  not  changed  its  acidity  in 
twenty-one  months.  Do  not,  however,  suppose  from  this 
that  cottonseed-oil  is  the  essential  of  preservation.  What 
is  tq  be  recommended  is  the  exclusion  of  air. 


346    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

Indeed,  cottonseed-oil  cannot  be  used  by  manufacturers 
or  housewives,  because  it  would  make  the  pickles  oily, 
and  eventually  rancid.  There  is,  however,  paraffin,  that 
noble  ally  of  the  jelly-jar.  This  gave  complete  satisfac- 
tion when  tried  on  a  two-gallon  jar  of  pickles;  and  even 
in  factories  its  use  would  not  be  too  expensive,  as  the 
paraffin  could  be  remelted  and  used  year  after  year.  But 
of  course,  in  case  of  its  use,  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
ppur  it  on  until  the  fermentation  has  ceased,  as  otherwise 
the  gases  arising  from  the  brine  would  tear  it  to  pieces 
and  make  a  remelting  necessary.  But  the  great  fact  is 
that  exclusion  of  air  will  result  in  the  retention  of  the 
acid  and  the  prevention  of  the  formation  of  the  skum- 
yeast  which  destroys  the  acid,  thus  causing  the  pickles  to 
keep  indefinitely. 

There  is  also  an  earlier  stage  in  the  life  history  of  a 
pickle,  when  certain  bacteria  can  get  in  their  work  of 
destruction,  and  should  consequently  be  guarded  against. 
This  is  the  period  before  normal  fermentation  begins. 
In  Dr.  Rahn's  opinion,  the  spoilage  that  may  then  occur 
is  due  to  the  action  of  one  of  the  so-called  potato  bac- 
teria. These  stand  salt  well,  and  if  they  happen  to  be 
present  in  fairly  large  numbers,  they  can  do  great  dam- 
age, for  they  grow  very  fast.  Fighting  these  bacteria, 
however,  is  not  difficult.  Putting  in  brine  from  a  fer- 
menting tank  or  jar,  or  even  a  little  vinegar,  will  speedily 
cause  their  career  to  cease.  Where  this  is  not  possible, 
attention  to  temperature  and  whatever  induces  rapid  fer- 
mentation will  put  them  out  of  the  ranks  of  trouble- 
makers. .  Also,  pickles  srhould  be  compelled  to  stay  under 
brine  instead  of  being  allowed  to  poke  out  where  the 
potato  bacteria  can  catch  them. 

In  short,  the  great  secret  of  successful  pickle-making 
lies  in  bringing  about  acid  fermentation  quickly,  .and 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  PICKLES          347 

after    this     is     over,     in     preserving     the     acidity     of 
the  brine. 

Since  some  bacteria  are  necessary  for  the  keeping  of 
pickles,  it  is  not  advisable  to  rid  the  outside  of  the  cucum- 
bers of  bacteria  before  putting  them  into  brine,  for  then 
the  good  would  perish  with  the  evil  bacteria.  Neither 
is  it  necessary  to  wash  the  cucumbers,  since  all  brine 
pickles  are  washed  anyway  before  being  eaten.  In  the 
case  of  dill  pickles,  of  course,  this  does  not  apply.  They 
are  eaten  as  they  come  from  the  tank,  and  therefore  the 
cucumbers  used  in  making  them  should  be  washed  be- 
fore pickling.  It  has  been  recommended  by  a  German 
bacteriologist  that  a  little  whey  from  sour  milk  be  put 
into  the  pickle-barrel  to  hasten  the  fermentation.  But 
this  practice  has  been  tried  with  dill  pickles  only — brine 
pickles  being  unknown  in  Germany. 


Tiny  Cucumbers  or  Gherkin  Pickles 

Select  one  hundred  very  small  prickly  cucumbers 
or  gherkins,  of  uniform  size,  and  cover  them  with  cold 
water.  In  an  hour  drain  and  turn  them  into  a  large 
crock.  Add  one  cupful  of  salt  to  sufficient  boiling  water 
to  cover  the  cucumbers  and  pour  this  over  them.  Cover 
the  crock  closely  and  let  it  stand  for  two  days.  After 
this,  drain,  rejecting  those  that  may  be  imperfect  or 
soft,  and  pack  them  in  a  clean  crock.  Heat  one  quart 
of  cider  vinegar  with  half  a  cupful  of  brown  sugar  until 
it  boils,  skim,  and  add  half  a  cupful  of  fresh  horseradish 
slivers,  one  red  pepper,  and  two  small  shredded  green 
peppers,  half  a  cupful  of  nasturtium  seeds,  half  an 
ounce  of  celery  seed,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  stick 
cinnamon,  two  ounces  of  white  and  brown  mustard  seed, 


348     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

one  teaspoonful  of  alum  broken  into  small  bits,  half  of 
a  small  onion  sliced,  one  dozen  cloves,  and  a  small  blade 
of  mace.  When  this  is  boiling,  strain  and  pour  it  into 
the  crock,  stirring  the  cucumbers  from  the  bottom. 
Cover  closely  and  let  it  stand  for  a  week,  then  reheat  the 
liquid,  pack  the  pickles  in  glass  jars,  fill  with  hot  vinegar, 
and  seal  the  jars ;  or  replace  the  pickles  in  crocks  and 
cover  closely.  They  will  be  ready  for  use  in  six  weeks. 
If  the  flavor  of  Tarragon  vinegar  is  preferred,  use  half 
Tarragon  and  half  cider  vinegar. 

East  Indian  Pickles 

Slice  two  quarts  of  green  tomatoes,  six  small  onions,  five 
medium-sized  green  cucumbers,  and  a  small  head  of  red 
cabbage.  Place  them  in  a  crock  in  separate  layers  with 
a  sprinkling  of  salt  between  each  layer.  After  twenty- 
four  hours  cover  with  the  following  boiling  mixture 
(which  should  be  drained  off  and  reheated  each  day  for 
three  days)  :  Three  pints  of  cider  vinegar,  a  fourth  of  a 
pound  of  white  mustard  seed,  half  an  ounce  of  celery 
seed,  two  small  green  peppers,  shredded,  one  and  a  half 
pounds  of  brown  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  black 
pepper,  and  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  turmeric.  On  the 
third  morning  add  two  cupfuls  of  Tarragon  vinegar,  one 
tablespoonful  of  mustard,  half  a  cupful  of  salad  oil,  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder.  Seal  in  glass  jars 
and  use  after  six  weeks. 


Green  Tomatoes  and  Pepper  Relish 

Chop  finely  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  three  large 
onions,  six  green  peppers  with  the  seeds  removed,  boil 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  PICKLES         349 

them  three  minutes  in  two  quarts  of  very  weak  vinegar, 
drain,  and  turn  into  glass  jars.  Scald  three  quarts  of 
vinegar  with  two  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
white  mustard  seed,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  cinnamon, 
cloves,  and  allspice,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  celery  seed.  When  this  is  boiling,  pour  it 
over  the  chopped  ingredients  and  seal  the  jars. 


Green  Tomato  Sweet  Pickles 

Slice  thinly  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes  and  cover  them 
with  one  gallon  of  water  mixed  with  one  cupful  of  salt. 
The  next  day  drain  this  thoroughly.  Heat  two  quarts  of 
vinegar  with  three  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  mixed  spices  in  a  bag.  With  a  skimmer 
plunge  a  few  of  the  tomatoes  at  a  time  into  this  boiling 
vinegar.  Cook  for  a  few  moments,  and  put  them  immedi- 
ately into  hot  glass  jars.  Fill  them  with  the  boiling  liquid 
and  seal. 


Stuffed  Green  Peppers  (or  Mangoes) 

Cut  the  tops  from  the  peppers  (or  mangoes),  remove 
the  seeds,  and  cover  both  the  tops  and  the  peppers  with  a 
brine  strong  enough  to  hold  up  an  egg,  then  leave  them 
for  three  or  four  days.  Drain  and  stuff  them  with  shaved 
cabbage  seasoned  with  mustard  seed,  celery  seed,  chopped 
onion,  grated  horseradish,  a  suspicion  of  mace,  and  a 
little  brown  sugar,  all  moistened  with  salad  oil.  Tie  on 
the  tops,  pack  in  a  crock,  and  pour  over  them  boiling  Tar- 
ragon vinegar.  Seal,  and  do  not  use  them  before  two 
months  have  elapsed. 


350          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Mixed  Mustard  Pickle 

Slice  one  quart  of  onions,  one  quart  of  small  green  to- 
matoes, and  one  large  peeled  cucumber.  Break  one  head 
of  cauliflower  into  small  pieces,  and  cut  one  quart  of 
green  or  wax  beans  into  half-inch  lengths.  Cover  each 
of  these  with  salt  and  water,  also  one  quart  of  button 
onions,  one  quart  of  tiny  cucumbers,  and  two  red  peppers 
and  two  green  peppers  shredded.  The  next  morning 
boil  them  until  they  are  tender,  drain  them  and  toss  them 
together.  Boil  one  quart  of  vinegar  with  one  cupful  of 
sugar  mixed  with  a  third  of  a  cupful  of  flour  and  a 
fourth  of  a  pound  of  mustard.  When  this  is  thick,  add 
one  teaspoonful  of  celery  seed,  half  a  cupful  of  butter, 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  turmeric.  Add  this  to  the  other 
ingredients,  and  turn  all  into  glass  jars,  and  seal. 

Tomato  Catsup  (Uncooked) 

Chop  finely  half  a  peck  of  ripe  tomatoes,  three  red 
and  three  green  peppers  (without  seeds),  four  celery 
stalks,  and  two  onions ;  add  one  cupful  of  grated  horse- 
radish in  one  cupful  of  Tarragon  vinegar,  half  a  cupful 
of  black  and  white  mustard  seed,  one  cupful  of  brown 
sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  salt,  and  one  pint  of  cider  vinegar.  Mix  this  well 
and  put  into  jars  or  bottles  and  seal. 

Pepper  Hash 

Chop  finely  twelve  green  peppers,  twelve  sweet  red 
peppers,  and  twelve  very  small  onions;  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes ;  then 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  PICKLES         351 

drain  and  add  one  quart  of  vinegar  and  one  cupful  of 
brown  sugar.  Let  it  come  to  a  boil,  and  then  turn  it 
into  jars.  Use  this  for  sandwiches. 

Cucumber  Catsup  (Uncooked) 

Peel  and  chop  six  green  cucumbers  (table  size),  add 
one  green  pepper,  and  two  small  onions  minced.  Drain 
this  and  add  salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar  to  taste,  and  turn 
it  into  glass  jars.  Use  this  for  sandwiches. 

Chili  Sauce 

Chop  four  quarts  of  ripe  tomatoes,  four  medium-sized 
onions,  and  one  red  pepper;  add  two  cupfuls  of  vinegar, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
salt,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon.  Boil  this  one 
hour  and  turn  it  into  jars  and  seal.  Use  with  salad 
dressing  and  as  a  relish  for  cold  meats. 

Ripe  Tomato  Sweet  Pickle 

Peel  and  weigh  tomatoes  of  uniform  size,  taking  care 
that  they  are  not  overripe.  Lay  them  carefully  in  a 
stone  crock,  and  cover  them  with  cold  vinegar.  The 
next  day  take  up  the  tomatoes  carefully  in  a  skimmer, 
and  lay  them  on  a  plate  and  place  the  plate  in  the  bottom 
of  a  kettle.  To  half  of  the  vinegar  add  sugar  weighing 
half  the  weight  of  the  tomatoes,  heat  this  and  add  a 
bag  of  whole  spices ;  pour  this  gently  over  the  tomatoes, 
and  place  it  over  a  low  fire  to  keep  very  hot  (not  boiling) 
for  four  hours.  Pack  these  in  the  crock  and  cover. 
Serve  with  meat. 


352          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Yellow  Egg  Tomato  Sweets 

In  the  morning,  scald  quickly,  and  peel  six  pounds  of 
tomatoes.  Cover  them  with  one  quart  of  water  mixed 
with  one  pint  of  vinegar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
and  let  it  stand  over  night.  Drain  the  tomatoes  and  to 
each  pound  use  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar.  Pack 
in  layers  and  let  stand  until  morning.  Pour  off  the  syrup 
and  add  small,  thin  slices  of  lemon,  a  few  pieces  of  ginger 
root,  four  drops  of  oil  of  cinnamon,  and  two  drops  of 
oil  of  cloves.  Boil  this  syrup  until  it  is  thick,  add  the 
tomatoes  and  cook  until  they  are  transparent.  Pack  them 
into  small  jars,  and  fill  with  the  thick  syrup.  Serve  them 
with  chicken  or  meats. 

Spiced  Currants 

For  every  five  pounds  of  currants  take  two  quarts  of 
water  and  one  pint  of  vinegar,  one  tablespoonful  ground 
cinnamon,  and  four  pounds  of  sugar;  two  teaspoonfuls 
ground  cloves;  one  teaspoonful  each  of  ground  allspice 
and  mace.  Boil  the  currants  with  the  sugar.  When 
quite  thick,  add  the  vinegar  and  spices  and  boil,  stirring 
well  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  more.  Store  as  jelly. 

Preserved  Watermelon  Rind 

Peel  the  rind  from  one-half  of  a  melon,  rejecting  all  of 
the  soft  pink  part.  Chop  it  finely  or  cut  it  in  a  meat 
grinder.  Place  it  over  night  in  a  bowl  with  a  sprinkling 
of  salt  over  each  layer  of  chopped  rind.  In  the  morning 
draw  off  all  the  liquid  and  freshen  it  in  cold  water,  by 
washing  it  two  or  three  times.  Place  it  on  the  fire  in 
the  preserving  kettle  with  one  cupful  of  sugar  to  every 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  PICKLES          353 

cupful  of  rind,  and  let  it  boil  for  two  or  three  hours. 
Add  the  grated  peel  of  three  lemons  or  the  peel  cut  in 
thin  bits  and  the  pulp  cut  into  small  pieces.  Reject  the 
seeds.  Seal  in  small  jars,  not  jelly  glasses. 


Grape  Conserve 

Remove  the  pulp  of  five  pounds  of  grapes.  Cook  it 
and  take  out  the  seeds.  Chop  two  pounds  of  raisins  and 
half  a  pound  of  English  walnut  meats.  Add  the  grated 
rind  and  juice  of  three  oranges  and  four  pounds  of  granu- 
lated sugar.  Cook  all  together  until  if  is  quite  thick. 

Beet  Chowder 

To  two  cupfuls  of  finely  chopped  beets  (boiled)  add 
two  cupfuls  of  chopped  cabbage  and  one  cupful  of  horse- 
radish. Heat  it  and  pour  over  the  mixture  the  follow- 
ing: Two  cupfuls  of  vinegar,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard. 
This  will  keep  indefinitely  if  put  in  glass  jars. 


354        MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  PICKLES 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  PICKLES     355 


356     MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  PICKLES 


ICE  CREAM   AND   CAKE 


By  HARVEY  W.  WILEY,  M.  D. 

ROM  a  nutritive  point  of  view,  both  ice  cream 
and  cake  are  valuable  foods.  They  are  some- 
what of  the  same  nature,  namely,  largely 
sugars.  Ice  cream,  however,  contains  quite  a 
quantity  of  protein  and  fat  derived  from  the 
cream.  Cake  contains  some  protein  and  fat 
also,  the  proteins  being  derived  from  the  flour 
and  the  fat  added  as  "  shortening "  in  the  process  of 
making.  Thus  it  is  seen  that  ice  cream  and  cake  are 
largely  heat- forming  bodies  due  to  the  sugars  and  fats 
which  they  contain.  They  are,  however,  by  no  means 
devoid  of  protein,  building  materials,  so  that  to  a  certain 
extent  they  may  be  regarded  as  balanced  foods,  though 
the  balance  is  by  no  means  perfect.  There  is  more  fat 
or  oil  and  sugar  in  ice  cream  and  cake  than  the  needs 
of  the  body  demand.  Hence,  a  due  regard  for  health 
would  indicate  that  these  desserts  are  to  be  eaten  in 
somewhat  limited  quantities.  Above  all,  the  person  who 
sits  at  the  table  should  satisfy  his  app2tite  in  a  restrained 
manner.  It  should  not  be  all  wasted  upon  the  first  dishes 
that  come,  but  a  portion  of  it  should  be  reserved  for 
dessert,  when  it  consists  of  nutritious  foods  like  cake 
and  ice  cream.  If  this  were  done,  the  damage  which  so 
often  results  from  eating  desserts  would  be  avoided,  for 
the  harm  usually  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  nutritional 
needs  of  the  body  have  been  gratified  before  the  dessert 
is  reached.  Only  large  children  and  grown  people  should 
partake  of  these  articles  of  food;  the  young  child  will 
do  far  better  to  have  his  meal  without  dessert. 

357 


A   Souffle  Tin. 

Directions  for  Making  are  on  Page  248. 
for  Baking  all  Souffles. 


It  is  Useful 


Raspberry  Jelly. 
Recipe  ivill  be  found  on  Page  260. 


Acorn  Cakes. 
Recipe  will  be  found  on  Page  391. 


Devil's  Food  Pudding. 
Recipe  will  be  found  on  Page  383. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  FROZEN  DESSERTS 


HE  parfaits,  mousses,  and  biscuits  (pro- 
nounced, in  French,  "  biskwee ")  are  par- 
ticularly practical  desserts,  as  they  need  no 
stirring  during  the  freezing  process.  Taken 
as  a  whole  there  are  perhaps  no  desserts 
other  than  the  multitudes  of  frozen  ones  that 
so  pleasantly  bring  a  dinner  to  its  close.  They 
are  practical,  too.  They  can  be  made  and  left  to  ripen 
some  hours  before  serving.  This  enables  the  cook  to  set 
the  dessert  aside  and  do  all  the  rest  of  her  work  up  to 
the  last  minute.  And  again,  they  are  less  trouble  to 
prepare  than  pies,  cakes,  or  puddings. 

These  simple  concoctions  are  in  general  a  light  ice 
cream,  having  as  a  base  custard,  creams,  whipped  eggs 
reinforced  with  fruits,  syrups,  and  gelatine ;  or  com- 
binations of  these.  The  most  frequent  base  is  whipped 
cream.  The  cream  must  be  beaten  until  very  stiff,  fla- 
vored as  desired,  and  placed  in  a  mold  in  the  ice  for  three 
to  four  hours.  All  ingredients  must  be  carefully  folded 
into  the  cream  to  preserve  the  mosslike  texture  of  the 
frozen  product.  Gelatine  can  be  used  with  thin  cream ; 
and  the  whip  of  thin  cream  as  well.  The  proportions  of 
sugar  and  flavorings  are  about  double  those  needed  for 
an  ordinary  pudding  which  is  not  to  be  frozen. 

When  using  fruit  it  is  generally  better  to  use  the 
juices,  or  pulp,  as  bits  of  fruit  may  become  too  much 
like  lumps  of  ice. 

359 


360    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

The  difference  between  parfaits  and  mousses  may  be 
said  to  consist  in  the  use  of  eggs  and  syrups  in  parfaits 
and  the  sugar  and  gelatine  in  mousses.  The  biscuits  are 
merely  mousses  molded  in  individual  forms. 


How  to  Mold  These  Desserts 

While  preparing  the  mixture,  place  the  mold  on  ice 
until  it  is  thoroughly  cold,  then  put  in  the  mixture  by 
spoonfuls  and  spread  it  carefully  throughout  the  mold. 
Fill  so  that  when  the  cover  is  put  on  some  of  the  mixture 
will  be  forced  out.  Cover  the  top  of  the  mold  (before 
putting  on  the  lid)  with  buttered  paper  or  soft  wrapping 
paper  a  little  larger  than  the  surface  to  be  covered. 
Put  on  the  cover,  and  bury  the  mold  in  the  freezing 
mixture  for  from  three  to  four  hours.  If  this  method  is 
followed,  no  salt  can  possibly  enter  the  mold. 


To  Freeze 

The  ordinary  proportion  for  freezing  is  three  parts 
of  ice  to  one  of  rock  salt,  but  here  we  suggest  two  parts 
of  ice  to  one  of  rock  salt.  When  rock  salt  and  ice  of 
about  the  same  size  are  mixed,  the  salt  melts  the  ice. 
In  this  way  the  salt,  too,  dissolves,  so  that  both  solids  are 
liquefied.  The  heat  which  causes  this  to  happen  is  drawn 
from  the  ice  cream  which  is  to  be  frozen,  as  it  is  by  this 
extraction  of  heat  that  the  freezing  process  takes  place. 
The  best  ice  for  freezing  is  porous  or  snow  ice,  as  the 
air  holes  permit  the  salt's  easy  access  to  the  ice,  causing 
it  to  melt  rapidly.  Do  not  draw  off  the  water  in  the 
freezer  until  the  ice  floats  on  top  (this  liquid  is  colder 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  FROZEN  DESSERTS     361 

than  the  unmelted  ice),  because  the  freezing  process  is 
at  its  height  and  the  water  from  this  time  on  will  rise  in 
temperature  and  can  then  be  drawn  off.  If  necessary,  at 
this  point,  more  of  the  freezing  mixture  can  be  added. 


To  Remove  from  the  Mold 

Wash  the  mold  in  cold  water,  remove  all  brine,  and 
wipe  perfectly  dry.  Remove  cover  and  paper.  Invert 
the  mold  on  a  flat  dish,  and  if  the  room  is  warm  it  should 
slip  out  comfortably.  If  it  does  not,  rinse  a  cloth  in  hot 
water  and  wrap  it  about  the  mold  for  a  fraction  of  a 
minute  until  the  contents  slide  out  readily. 

It  is  better  not  to  let  mousses  or  parfaits  freeze  very 
hard,  as  they  are  difficult  to  remove  from  molds  and  are 
not  pleasant  to  eat.  Very  often  to  obviate  the  difficulties 
encountered  on  removing  these  frozen  desserts,  the  mold 
is  lined  with  a  sherbet  whose  melting  point  is  a  bit 
higher  than  the  mousse  or  parfait.  The  sherbet  melts 
more  quickly  and  therefore  slips  away  from  the  mold 
more  readily. 


Lemon   Parfait 

Make  one  cupful  of  thick  lemon  syrup  by  heating  one 
cupful  sugar  with  one-half  cupful  of  water.  Add  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  three  lemons.  Pour  this  over 
two  beaten  egg  yolks.  Cook  in  a  double  boiler  until  it 
thickens.  Remove  from  the  stove  and  when  it  cools  com- 
bine it  with  one  pint  (two  cupfuls)  of  thick  cream  beaten 
until  stiff — or  the  whip  from  thinner  cream.  Fill  molds 
and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  three  or  four  hours. 


362          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Coffee  Parfait 

Pour  a  syrup  of  one-half  of  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  one 
cupful  of  strong  coffee  over  two  beaten  eggs.  Cook  this 
in  a  double  boiler  until  it  thickens.  Remove  from  stove, 
and  when  it  is  cool,  combine  it  with  one  pint  (two  cup- 
fuls)  of  thick  cream,  beaten  until  stiff — or  the  whip  from 
thinner  cream.  Fill  molds  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for 
three  or  four  hours. 


Walnut  Mousse 

Whip  four  cupfuls  of  cream  until  thick.  Flavor  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Fold  in  two  cupfuls  of  walnut 
meats  until  all  are  included.  Pack  in  mold  and  freeze  for 
three  hours.  Serve  with  chocolate  sauce.  Thin  cream 
can  be  used  with  one  ounce  of  gelatine  dissolved  in  one- 
quarter  cupful  of  water. 


Mint  Biscuit  Mousse 

Rub  off  the  yellow  rind  of  three  lemons  on  six  lumps  of 
loaf  sugar,  then  crush  the  sugar  to  a  powder,  adding  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  mint  extract,  made  from  steeping  in 
boiling  water  a  handful  of  bruised  mint  leaves.  Mix 
in  carefully  a  cupful  of  grated  macaroon  crumbs,  the 
yolk  of  one  well-beaten  egg,  and  a  pint  of  stiffly  whipped 
cream.  Beat  steadily  for  five  minutes,  and  turn  into 
small  tin  molds  or  forms  having  watertight  covers.  Bury 
this  in  chopped  ice  and  rock  salt  for  three  hours  before 
serving.  Serve  in  individual  portions  on  squares  of 
sponge  cake  accompanied  by  any  desired  sauce. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  FROZEN  DESSERTS     363 
Ginger   Mousse 

Soften  one  tablespoonful  of  granulated  gelatine  in  one- 
fourth  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  add  a  pinch  of  salt  and 
three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Stir  and 
strain  gradually  into  two  coffee  cupfuls  of  cream  whipped 
very  stiff  and  flavored  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  ginger 
syrup,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Before 
freezing,  add  one  cupful  of  preserved  crystallized  ginger, 
cut  in  very  small  pieces. 

Pineapple  Mousse 

To  one  cupful  of  pineapple  syrup,  heated,  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  gelatine  softened  in  one-fourth  of  a 
cupful  of  cold  water,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice.  Strain  and  let  cool.  As  the 
mixture  thickens,  fold  in  one  quart  (four  cupfuls)  of 
whipped  cream.  Mold,  pack  in  ice  and  salt,  and  let 
stand  for  four  hours. 

Frappes 

A  frappe  is  a  half-frozen  ice,  of  a  mushy  consistency, 
and  of  a  granular  texture.  Gelatine  is  not  used  and 
sugar  alone  is  often  employed  instead  of  the  usual  sugar 
syrup.  This  makes  the  combining  of  ingredients  for 
frappes  simpler  than  for  other  dishes.  Their  coarse, 
granular  texture  in  contrast  to  the  smooth,  fine-grained 
texture  of  creams  and  sherbets  is  produced  chiefly  by 
the  different  proportions  of  salt  and  ice,  used  in  freezing. 
The  smaller  amount  of  salt  used,  the  finer  the  grain  and 
the  smoother  the  texture;  the  more  salt,  the  coarser  the 


364    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

grain  and  the  more  granular  the  texture.  A  frappe  tex- 
ture can  be  obtained  without  the  use  of  the  freezer, 
which  greatly  reduces  one's  labor. 


To  Freeze 

The  mixture  should  be  poured  into  a  mold  or  any 
tight-fitting  utensil,  filled  to  overflowing,  a  piece  of  wrap- 
ping paper  laid  over  the  top,  the  cover  fitted  on  closely, 
and  the  mold  well  packed  in  a  mixture  of  ice  and  salt.  If 
a  very  coarse  texture  is  desired,  use  equal  proportions  of 
salt  and  ice;  if  a  finer  texture  is  wanted,  use  one  part 
salt  to  two  of  ice ;  if  a  smooth  cream  texture,  one  of  salt 
to  three  of  ice.  Allow  the  mixture  to  remain  for  three 
hours  in  the  mold,  and  if  the  smallest  amount  of  salt  is 
used  allow  five  or  six  hours. 

Frappes,  being  real  thirst  quenchers,  are  especially  used 
to  serve  from  the  punch  bowl  at  teas,  receptions,  and 
dances,  and  are  superio'r  to  ice  cream  and  sherbets  for 
such  occasions.  For  a  dessert,  a  garnish  of  whipped 
cream  and  additions  of  pieces  of  fruit  make  an  attractive 
modification.  Whipped  cream  may  be  placed  on  top  of 
the  frappe  after  filling  a  mold  two-thirds  full  and  all 
frozen  together  successfully.  There  are  some,  however, 
who  dislike  to  eat  fruit  that  is  stiffly  frozen.  There  are 
two  classes  of  f rappes :  in  one,  the  fruit  finely  cut  or 
chopped  is  used  with  the  juice,  giving  rise  to  the  name 
granites;  in  the  other,  the  fruit  juice  alone  is  used,  di- 
luted as  for  an  ice. 

Tea  Frappe 

Boil  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  two  cupfuls  of  water  for 
five  minutes  to  make  a  syrup.  Add  one  pint  of  fairly 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  FROZEN  DESSERTS     365 

strong  tea,  freshly  made  and  cooled,  then  the  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  three  oranges,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and 
one  can  of  grated  pineapple.  Freeze  in  a  freezer  if  de- 
sired, or  turn  into  a  mold,  cover  the  top  with  paraffin 
paper  or  buttered  paper,  place  a  cover  on  it  tightly,  and 
pack  in  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  salt  and  ice  for  three 
hours.  Remove  from  the  mold  and  garnish  with  slices 
of  lemon  or  crushed  mint  leaves  dusted  with  powdered 
sugar. 

Coffee  Frappe 

Make  coffee  the  strength  desired,  strain  it  carefully  and 
cool  and  sweeten  to  taste,  then  place  it  in  a  mold,  and 
pack  as  for  all  frappes.  One  cupful  of  cream  may  be 
added  before  packing  if  desired.  Garnish  with  whipped 
cream  in  serving. 


Chocolate  or  Coffee  Frappe 

Make  chocolate  or  cocoa  as  if  for  a  beverage,  add  to 
four  cupfuls  one  cupful  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla, 
and  one  cupful  of  strong  clear  coffee.  Freeze  in  a  freezer 
or  mold  in  ice  and  salt.  Serve  in  tall  sherbet  glasses,  and 
garnish  with  whipped  cream. 


Fruit  Juice  Frappe 

Two  cupfuls  of  fruit  juice;  one  cupful  of  sugar,  and 
two  cupfuls  of  water  to  make  a  syrup;  the  juice  of  two 
lemons.  Cool,  mix,  and  fill  a  mold.  Bury  in  equal  pro- 
portions of  salt  and  ice  for  three  hours.  If  a  finer  tex- 


366    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

ture  is  desired,  use  one  part  of  salt  to  two  of  ice  and 
allow  five  or  six  hours  for  freezing. 


Orange  and  Grape  Juice  Frappe 

Add  one  cupful  of  sugar  to  two  cupfuls  of  grape  juice 
and  one  cupful  of  orange  juice.  Add  one- fourth  of  a 
cupful  of  lemon  juice.  One  cupful  of  cream  may  be 
added  if  desired.  Fill  the  mold  and  pack  with  ice  and 
salt.  Garnish  with  whipped  cream  in  serving. 


Cider  Frappe 

To  four  cupfuls  of  sweet  cider  add  one-half  of  a  cup- 
ful of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  one  or  two  lemons.  Freeze 
as  other  frappes,  packing  in  salt  and  ice. 


Granites  Made  with  a  Syrup 

Make  a  syrup  of  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  two  cupfuls 
of  water.  Cool  and  add  two  cupfuls  of  crushed  or 
chopped  fruit  and  juice,  and  the  juice  of  one  or  two 
lemons.  Pack  as  for  frappes  for  five  hours. 


Banana  Granite 

Pour  over  four  large  ripe  bananas,  thinly  sliced,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon  and  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of 
sugar.  Cover  this  and  chill  it  for  an  hour.  To  this  add 
the  grated  peel  of  the  lemon  and  two  cupfuls  of  ice 
water.  Place  it  in  a  mold  and  pack  it  in  equal  propor- 
tions of  ice  and  salt  for  five  or  six  hours.  Peaches  or 
apricots  may  be  substituted  for  bananas. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  FROZEN  DESSERTS     367 
Bombe  Glaces 

The  regular  bombe  glace  is  a  sherbet  or  an  ice,  lining  a 
mold,  the  center  being  filled  with  a  charlotte  russe  mix- 
ture. This  involves  several  distinct  processes, — the  freez- 
ing of  a  sherbet,  the  making  of  the  charlotte  russe  mix- 
ture and  the  use  of  gelatine,  the  packing  in  the  mold,  and 
the  burying  of  the  mold  in  salt  and  ice.  A  satisfactory 
bombe  glace  may  be  made  in  a  much  simpler  way,  the 
only  difference  being  that  the  whipped  cream  forms  a 
layer  on  the  bottom  of  the  mold  instead  of  filling  the 
center.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the  mold,  filling  it  two- 
thirds  full.  Fill  it  to  overflowing  with  sweetened  and 
flavored  whipped  cream,  and  cover  with  paraffin  or  but- 
tered wrapping  paper  before  placing  the  cover.  Pack  it 
in  a  mixture  of  ice  and  salt  in  proportions  to  produce  a 
fine  or  coarse  texture  as  desired. 

Orange  Bombe  Glace 

Fill  a  mold  two-thirds  full  of  orange  juice  to  which 
the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  sugar  as  desired  have  been 
added.  Fill  the  mold  to  overflowing  with  two  cupfuls  of 
heavy  cream,  whipped,  sweetened  with  one-half  of  a 
cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  flavored  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla.  Cover  the  top  with  paraffin  paper 
or  buttered  wrapping  paper,  fit  the  cover  on  tightly,  and 
bury  in  ice  and  salt  mixture  for  five  or  six  hours.  One 
cupful  of  broken  walnut  meats  added  to  the  whipped 
cream  is  a  delicious  variation. 

Coffee  Ice  Cream 

Scald,  in  a  double  boiler,  one  pint  of  milk  with  one-half 
cupful  of  dry  coffee.  Strain  onto  three  slightly  beaten 


368    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  and  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Return  to  fire  and  cook  until  mixture  coats  the 
spoon.  Add  one  quart  of  cream  and  freeze.  Serve  with 

Marshmallow  Sauce 

In  the  upper  part  of  a  double  boiler,  put  one-fourth 
pound  of  marshmallows.  When  melted,  pour  on  a  syrup 
made  by  boiling  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  one-fourth  cup- 
ful of  water  ten  minutes.  Add  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  and  cool. 

Marmalade-Parfait 

Put  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  three-quarters  of  a 
cupful  of  cold  water  in  a  saucepan  and  stir  over  a 
moderate  heat  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved;  then  let  it 
cook  slowly  without  stirring  until  a  little  dropped  in  cold 
water  will  form  a  ball  rolled  between  the  fingers.  Re- 
move immediately  from  the  fire,  and  pour  slowly  upon  the 
stiffly  whipped  whites  of  three  eggs,  beating  constantly 
until  cold,  and  then  fold  in  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  marmalade  (be  careful 
not  to  let  any  liquid  that  may  have  drained  from  the 
cream  go  into  the  parfait).  Pour  at  once  into  a  water- 
tight mold  and  bury  in  ice  and  rock-salt  for  three  hours 
before  serving. 

Marshmallow  Parfait 

Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  together  in  a  granite 
saucepan  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  and  one  cupful 
of  water  until  it  spins  a  thread,  then  pour,  while  boiling 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  FROZEN  DESSERTS     369 

hot,  on  the  stiffly  whipped  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  con- 
tinue beating  to  a  smooth,  creamy  mass,  gradually  whip- 
ping in  one  pint  of  whipped  cream.  Flavor  to  taste  and 
put  into  the  freezer.  Turn  the  handle  for  four  or  five 
minutes,  and  when  frozen  to  the  consistency  of  mush, 
stir  in  one  cupful  of  chopped  nut  meats,  and  cut  up 
marshmallows.  Freeze  until  firm  and  smooth,  repacking 
in  ice  and  salt  for  two  or  three  hours  before  serving. 

Dolly  Madison's  Ice  Cream 

One  full  pint  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  white  sugar,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Let 
the  milk  come  to  a  boil.  Beat  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  flour 
together,  stir  these  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  let  all  cook 
for  twenty  minutes.  When  cold  add  one  teacupful  of 
sugar  and  one  quart  of  rich  sweet  cream.  Flavor  with 
a  vanilla  bean,  which  should  be  put  in  the  milk  to  boil. 
Put  into  a  freezer  and  turn  until  hard. 

Dolly  Madison's  Frozen  Custard 

Boil  together  one  quart  of  milk  and  a  small  teacupful 
of  sugar.  Add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  sifted  flour.  When  cold  add  the 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs  and  one  pint  of  rich  cream. 
Drop  into  the  boiling  milk  a  sprig  of  peach-tree  leaves, 
which  imparts  a  flavor  resembling  almond  essence.  Re- 
move the  sprigs  just  before  freezing. 

Mint  Fruit  Sherbet 

Place  in  a  large  mixing  bowl  a  bunch  of  fresh  mint, 
bruise  the  leaves,  and  pour  upon  them  a  quart  of  boiling 


370    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

hot  sugar  syrup;  then  add  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and 
the  grated  rind  of  one,  the  pulp  of  half  a  pineapple,  and 
a  tiny  pinch  of  ground  cinnamon;  cover  the  contents  of 
the  bowl  closely  and  let  stand  imtil  quite  cold.  Have  in 
readiness  a  chilled  freezer,  into  which  is  strained  the 
fruit  puree,  and  after  adjusting  the  cover,  freeze  to  the 
consistency  of  soft  snow;  now  pour  in  slowly  the  stiffly 
whipped  whites  of  two  eggs,  the  other  half  of  the  pine- 
apple flaked  into  tiny  particles  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
grated  cocoanut.  Continue  freezing  until  firm  and 
smooth.  Serve  in  small  crystal  or  glass  sherbet  cups, 
covered  with  minced  candied  orange  peel. 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  DESSERTS    371 


372      MORE  W 'AYS  OF  MAKING  DESSERTS 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  DESSERTS    373 


374      MORE  W AYS  OF  MAKING  DESSERTS 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE 

N  cake-making,  correct  measurements  are  par- 
ticularly necessary.     Good  judgment  and  ex- 
perience have  taught  some  cooks  to  measure 
by    sight,    but    the    majority    need    accurate 
guides.    Use  standard  measuring  cups,  prefer- 
ably  glass,    the    regulation    tea-    and    table- 
spoons, and  a  case-knife  to  level  the  measures. 
For  the  mixing  and  beating,  a  wooden  spoon  with  slits  is 
good. 

Only  the  best  ingredients  are  worthy  to  be  made  into 
cake.  Economize  on  the  quantity,  but  never  on  the 
quality,  of  materials.  Coarse  granulated  sugar  is  apt  to 
give  a  coarse  texture,  so  choose  the  fine  granulated  for 
cakes.  Bread  flour  contains  more  of  the  sticky  gluten 
than  pastry  flour.,  therefore  cake  made  with  it  is  never  so 
light  and  tender.  All  baking-powder  mixtures  are  better 
when  the  more  easily  raised  pastry  flour  is  used.  But 
if  bread  flour  must  be  used,  measure  two  tablespoonfuls 
less  for  every  cupful  called  for  in  a  recipe.  Never  try  to 
put  a  cake  together  until  all  the  ingredients  are  measured 
and  ready,  the  pans  are  properly  buttered,  and  the  fire 
is  attended  to.  The  fire  must  last  without  replenishing 
until  the  baking  is  completed. 


Sponge  Cake 

Sponge   cakes    depend    for   their   lightness   upon    the 
amount  of  air  which  is  beaten  into  the  mixture  before 

375 


376    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

baking.  The  following  is  a  safe  general  rule.  It  is  often 
varied,  and  with  good  results,,  provided  a  larger  amount 
of  air  is  entangled  in  the  batter.  Never  stir  a  sponge 
cake  batter,  as  the  air  already  entangled  is  thus  allowed 
to  escape.  Beating,  cutting,  and  folding  are  the  correct 
strokes. 

Separate  the  eggs  and  beat  the  yolks  until  very  thick 
and  lemon-colored;  beat  the  whites  until  stiff  and  dry. 
Add  the  sugar  to  the  yolks  and  beat  again,  then  add  the 
flavoring.  Beat  in  the  whites  and  finally  cut  and  fold 
in  the  flour  sifted  with  the  salt.  For  this  stroke  use  a 
case-knife,  adding  the  flour  gradually  and  cutting  it  in. 
Never  stir  it.  Three  eggs,  one-half  cupful  of  sugar, 
one-half  cupful  of  flour,  a  pinch  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  and  grated  rind  from  one-half  a  lemon 
are  the  correct  proportions  for  a  small  loaf. 


Butter  Cakes 

Butter  cakes  depend  for  their  lightness  upon  the  gas 
carbon  dioxide  obtained  from  baking  powder  or  soda 
and  cream  of  tartar.  There  are  almost  as  many  methods 
for  putting  together  a  batter  as  there  are  cakes.  The 
following  is  not  the  only  correct  method,  but  any  butter 
cake  may  be  put  together  with  success  by  just  this 
method.  It  is  a  safe  one  to  learn  and  use  when  only 
proportions  are  known.  Measure  the  dry  ingredients 
and  mix  and  sift  all  save  the  sugar  together.  Measure 
the  butter,  and  cream  it  with  the  sugar.  Butter  may  be 
softened  by  leaving  it  in  a  warm  room;  measure  by 
packing  it  solid  and  level  into  the  cup  or  spoon.  Beat 
with  a  wooden  spoon  until  light  and  creamy.  Add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  or  the  whole  eggs,  beaten  until  light, 


Flag  Cakes:  Any  Cake  may  be  cut  in  Oblongs  and  iced  in 

Plain  White,  then  decorated  with  red  Candies  to 

form  the  Stripes  and  blue  Candies  to  form 

the  Stars  of  The  Flag. 


Date  Sandwiches:  Lady  Fingers  with  a  Filling  of  Chopped 

Date  and  Nut  Meats.    For  the  Afternoon 

Tea   Tray. 


Red  and  White  Currant  and  Raspberry. 
Recipe  on  Page  274. 


Cherry  Salad. 
Recipe  on  Page  273. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  377 

the  liquid,  and  then  the  flour,  or  the  two  latter  may  be 
added  alternately,  always  beginning  with  the  flour.  Add 
the  whites  last  if  they  alone  are  used  or  if  they  are  beafen 
separately,  in  order  not  to  lose  the  air  beaten  into  them. 

Beating  alone  makes  a  cake  fine-grained,  but  a  cake 
may  be  light  and  tender,  thoroughly  eatable,  with  but 
little  beating.  Never  stir  a  cake  after  the  final  beating, 
because,  as  with  the  sponge  cake,  the  air  is  thus  allowed 
to  escape. 

Fruit,  when  added  immediately  after  the  sugar,  as  in 
dark  fruit  cake,  need  not  be  floured.  When  this  cannot 
be  done  on  account  of  discoloring  the  batter,  the  fruit 
must  be  floured  and  beaten  in  last.  Another  good  way 
is  to  fill  the  pans  half  full  with  plain  batter,  then  add 
the  floured  fruit  to  remaining  batter  and  put  in  pans. 

Butter  the  pans  thoroughly,  then  dredge  with  flour, 
shaking  all  the  superfluous  flour  from  the  pan.  A  narrow 
strip  of  buttered  paper,  reaching  over  the  sides,  may  be 
used  in  a  well-buttered  pan. 

In  filling,  be  especially  careful  to  fill  corners  and  sides, 
leaving  a  slight  depression  in  the  center.  When  baked 
the  cake  will  then  be  flat  on  top.  Many  blame  the  oven 
or  the  batter  for  a  "  hilly  "  cake,  when  it  is  merely  the 
way  the  batter  was  heaped  in  the  pan. 


Mysteries  of  Baking 

Much,  after  all,  depends  on  the  baking.  Many  a  prom- 
ising cake  has  been  ruined  in  the  oven  because  there 
must  be  so  much  left  to  individual  judgment.  There 
are  no  hard-and-fast  rules  which  can  be  laid  down  for 
cake  baking.  The  stereotyped  cooking-school  rule  is  help- 
ful. It  divides  the  time  into  quarters :  in  the  first  quarter, 


378    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

the  batter  rises ;  in  the  second  quarter  it  continues  to  rise 
and  begins  to  brown ;  in  the  third  quarter  it  continues 
browning;  in  the  fourth  quarter  it  finishes  baking  and 
shrinks  from  pan. 

If  the  oven  is  too  hot  the  back  covers  may  be  raised. 
It  is  safer  to  put  a  pan  of  cold  water  into  the  oven  rather 
than  to  put  a  paper  over  the  cake,  as  is  commonly  done 
to  prevent  burning.  As  soon  as  heated,  refill  with  cold 
water,  if  necessary. 

Do  not  move  a  cake  until  it  is  risen  to  its  full  height ; 
after  that  there  is  no  danger  of  its  falling.  Open  the 
oven  door  as  often  as  necessary,  provided  it  be  done 
carefully  and  slowly.  It  is  the  rush  of  cold  air  into  the 
oven  which  causes  the  cake  to  fall. 

Fruit  cake  and  pound  cake  are  done  when  they  are 
firm  yet  springy  to  the  touch.  With  other  cakes,  the 
best  test  is  the  shrinking  from  the  pans.  Keep  the  oven 
heat  uniform  and  do  not  attempt  to  use  the  oven  for  any- 
thing save  the  cakes.  A  slow  oven  causes  a  coarse- 
textured  cake,  while  too  hot  an  oven  will  make  the  cake 
crack  in  the  center. 

Invert  the  cake,  after  baking,  on  a  wire  cake  rest.  If 
it  sticks,  loosen  around  edges  with  a  knife  and  leave  it 
inverted,  to  be  helped  out  by  its  own  weight. 

If  boiled  frosting  is  made,  the  cake  may  be  hot  or  cold 
when  it  is  frosted,  but  never  put  an  uncooked  frosting  on 
a  cold  cake. 


Shaker  Nut  Cake 

One-half  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  light  brown 
sugar,  two  beaten  eggs,  one-half  cupful  of  water,  one 
teaspoonful  of  lemon, 'one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  379 

sifted  with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  one  cupful 
of  hickory  or  butternut  meats,  coarsely  chopped.  Bake 
in  three  round,  shallow  pans,  in  a  slow  oven.  Cool  and 
put  together  with  maple  fondant  (made  with  maple  sugar 
like  ordinary  boiled  frosting),  ornamenting  the  top  of 
the  loaf  with  nut  meats  which  have  been  sparingly 
sprinkled  with  salt  and  baked  for  ten  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  This  renders  nuts  much  more  toothsome  as 
well  as  digestible. 


Apple  Sauce  Cake 

One  cupful  of  unsweetened  apple  sauce,  one  and  one- 
half  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of  shortening,  yolk 
of  one  egg,  one  level  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one-half 
teaspoonful  of  cloves,  one-half  level  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  and  two  cupfuls 
of  flour.  Strain  apple  sauce  through  a  sieve,  add  the 
soda,  melted  shortening,  and  flour  sifted  with  baking 
powder  and  spices.  Beat  all  together  thoroughly  and 
bake  in  two  layers.  Put  together  with  a  simple  frosting. 


Crispettes 

Beat  two  eggs  and  stir  into  them  a  cupful  of  white  and 
brown  sugar,  mixed,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted 
flour,  then  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Beat  thoroughly  and  add  a  cupful  of  English  walnuts, 
chopped  fine.  Drop  the  dough  by  the  teaspoonful  into 
buttered  pans,  allowing  three  inches  for  cakes  to  spread. 
These  are  delicious  for  afternoon  tea,  or  when  served 
with  fruit  for  dessert. 


380          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Peter  Pans 

One-half  cupful  of  equal  parts  of  butter  and  lard, 
one-half  cupful  of  dark  brown  sugar,  one  egg,  well  beaten, 
one-half  cupful  of  Porto  Rico  molasses,  two-thirds  cupful 
of  slightly  soured  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
cinnamon,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  In  two 
cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  thoroughly  blend  one  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  one-half  cupful  each  of  finely  chopped  raisins 
and  nuts.  Cream  butter  and  lard  with  sugar;  add  the 
ingredients  in  the  order  given,  beating  all  very  thor- 
oughly; bake  in  well-buttered  small  patty  tins  or  drop 
on  well-buttered  tins  and  bake  in  hot  oven.  Desirable 
for  teas  and  luncheons. 

Hot  Water  Spice  Cake 

Three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  cupful  of 
molasses,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  and 
lemon  extract,  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  one-half  cupful  of 
chopped  raisins,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  cupful  of 
boiling  water.  Mix  in  order  given,  sifting  cloves  and 
cinnamon  with  the  flour  and  adding  the  soda  dissolved 
in  the  boiling  water  the  last  thing.  Bake  in  layers  in 
a  moderate  oven.  Use  the  whites  of  the  eggs  for  frosting. 

Hot  Water  Chocolate  Cake 

Two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
yolk  of  one  egg,  two  squares  of  chocolate  cooked  in  one- 
half  cupful  of  boiling  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda 
dissolved  in  one-half  cupful  of  boiling  water,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking  powder  sifted  with  one  and  one-half 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  381 

ctipfuls  of  flour,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Mix 
in  order  given  and  bake  in  a  square  loaf  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  thirty  minutes.  Cover  with  boiled  frosting, 
using  the  white  of  the  egg  left  from  the  cake  for  the 
frosting.  It  is  rather  unusual  to  have  both  soda  and 
baking  powder  as  called  for  in  this  recipe,  but  it  is  im- 
possible to  get  light  spongy  cake  if  a  larger  amount  of 
one  alone  is  used.  Follow  the  directions  exactly  and 
you  will  be  surprised  at  the  delicious  cake  which  is  the 
result. 

Maple  Drop  Cakes 

Two  ctipfuls  of  maple  syrup,  one-half  cupful  of  cream 
or  milk,  two  eggs,  one-half  cupful  of  melted  butter,  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  and  flour  enough  to  make 
a  soft  batter.  Bake  in  gem  pans. 

Oatmeal  Drops 

One  cupful  each  of  sugar  and  butter,  creamed  together, 
two  eggs,  two  cupfuls  each  of  flour  and  rolled  oats,  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  soda  sifted  with  the 
flour,  one  cupful  each  of  raisins  and  English  walnuts 
finely  chopped.  Mix  nuts  and  raisins  before  putting 
through  the  chopper.  Drop  the  dough  by  half-teaspoons, 
a  couple  of  inches  apart,  on  inverted  pans  or  rimless  tin 
sheets  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 


Rich  Short  Bread 

Rub  to  a  cream  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  butter,  add 
one-half  cupful  of  sugar,  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs, 


382    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

and  one  pound  of  flour.  Stir  in  the  peel  of  one  lemon 
and  one-half  cupful  of  blanched  almonds,  both  finely 
chopped.  Knead  this  till  it  is  a  smooth  dough  and  roll 
out  on  a  floured  board  to  the  thickness  of  one-fourth  of 
an  inch  or  more.  Cut  into  squares.  Have  ready  a  plate 
of  finely  chopped  candied  peel,  nuts,  shredded  citron,  and 
a  little  sugar.  Into  this  lay  one  side  of  each  square 
before  putting  them  in  the  pan  to  bake.  The  mixture 
will  adhere  to  the  cakes  more  satisfactorily  than  when 
sprinkled  on. 


Scotch  Cookies 

Two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  rolled  oats,  two  and  one- 
half  cupfuls  of  flour  (leaving  out  one-half  cupful  for 
rolling),  one  cupful  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  milk,  three-quarters  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
one-half  cupful  of  butter,  one-third  cupful  of  beef  drip- 
pings, one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
spices — cinnamon,  nutmeg,  and  clove  mixed.  Cream 
shortening  and  sugar;  add  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  the 
milk  in  which  the  soda  has  been  dissolved.  Mix  the 
remaining  ingredients,  then  stir  all'  together.  Set  aside 
to  get  cold  before  rolling  thin.  All  cookies  containing 
rolled  oats  need  a  sharp  cutter.  This  rule  makes  a  large 
quantity. 


Fruit  Bars 

Mix  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour,  scant  two  and 
one-half  cupfuls  of  rolled  oats,  one  cupful  each  of  butter 
and  brown  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of  sour  milk,  and  one 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  383 

teaspoonftil  of  soda.  Flour  the  board  generously,  roll 
thin,  and  cut  with  a  narrow,  oblong  cutter.  Stone  and 
put  through  a  chopper  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  dates, 
roll  this  mass  also  into  a  thin  sheet,  and  cut  with  same 
cutter.  Put  a  layer  of  date  paste  between  every  two  of 
the  cooky  dough,  sandwich  fashion,  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven.  When  cold  pack  edgewise  in  a  jar — and  hide  the 
jar.  Ordinary  cooky  dough  may  be  manipulated  suc- 
cessfully, in  a  similar  way.  Cut  out  in  circles  and  use 
jelly,  chopped  figs  and  pecans,  chopped  candied  fruits; 
in  fact,  any  appetizing  mixture  of  this  sort,  for  a  filling. 
Lay  a  teaspoonful  of  "  sweetmeats  "  in  the  center  of  a 
round  ;  wet  edges  with  milk  before  covering  with  a  second 
circle;  press  edges  together  and  bake  quickly. 

Gingersnaps 

If  gingersnap  dough  is  mixed  at  night  and  stands  in 
a  cool  place  till  morning,  it  can  be  handled  far  more 
easily  and  with  less  flour.  It  makes  these  wafers  de- 
licious to  leave  out  the  ground  ginger  and  add  preserved 
ginger  finely  chopped  instead.  This  simple  recipe  is  ex- 
cellent :  One  cupful  of  best  Porto  Rico  molasses — scald 
and  cool — one-half  cupful  of  softened  butter,  one-half 
teaspoonful  each  of  soda  and  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of 
yellow  ginger  and  flour  to  roll  very  thin.  Cut  into  rounds 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Molasses  mixtures  burn 
easily. 

Marshmallow  Cake 

Beat  one-half  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream,  add  one  and 
one-half  cupfuls  of  sugar  gradually,  and  beat  until 


384    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

creamy.  Add  alternately  one-half  cupful  of  milk  with 
two  cupfuls  of  flour  into  which  have  been  sifted  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder.  Beat  the  whites  of  five 
eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  add  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonf ul 
of  salt.  Fold  gently  into  the  batter,  and  when  well 
mixed  add  one-half  of  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Bake  in 
shallow,  round  tins  and  when  cool  fill  with  marshmallow 
filling  made  as  follows : 

Marshmallow  Filling 

Add  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  to  one-half  cupful  of  milk, 
heat  slowly  to  boiling  point,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Break 
one-half  a  pound  of  marshmallows  into  pieces  and.  melt 
in  the  double  boiler.  Add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  hot 
water  and  cook  until  the  mixture  is  smooth.  Add  the 
milk  syrup  to  this,  stirring  steadily.  Take  from  the  fire 
and  beat  until  cool  and  thick  enough  to  spread.  Add 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  then  spread  between 
the  cake.  This  may  be  used  for  the  top  as  well,  or  an 
extra  frosting  made  with  one  cupful  of  fondant,  the 
white  of  an  egg,  beaten  until  stiff,  and  one-fourth  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla.  Melt  the  fondant,  add  the  white  of 
the  egg,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  couple  of  minutes. 
Remove  and  beat  until  cool  and  stiff  enough  to  spread. 
Flavor  with  vanilla  and  lemon  juice. 

Chocolate    Gingerbread 

Place  in  a  mixing  bowl  half  a  cupful  of  molasses,  one 
tablespoonful  each  of  melted  lard  and  butter,  half  a  cupful 
of  brown  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon, 
a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  grated  nutmeg  and 
ground  ginger,  and  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  grated 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  385 

sweet  chocolate  mixed  to  a  paste  with  a  little  warm 
water;  blend  the  ingredients  thoroughly  and  then  stir 
in  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda,  dissolved  in  a  small 
cupful  of  sour  cream  and  sufficient  sifted  flour  to  form 
a  cake  batter.  Pour  into  an  oblong  greased  cake  pan 
and  bake  about  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven, 
covering  when  cold  with  a  chocolate  frosting. 

Buttermilk  Gingerbread 

One  large  cupful  of  molasses,  one  well-beaten  egg,  two- 
thirds  cupful  of  buttermilk;  fill  the  cup  up  with  any 
shortening,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda,  a  pinch  of  salt,  one 
tablespoonful  of  ginger,  and  flour  enough  to  make  a 
pouring  batter. 

Devil's  Food  Pudding 

Mix  together  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of 
butter,  and  one-third  of  a  cake  of  chocolate  (melted)  ; 
then  add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  sour 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda  dissolved  in  a  little 
hot  water,  and  about  two  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour ;  beat 
until  very  light,  flavoring  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract,  and  bake  in  layer  greased  cake  pans, 
allowing  about  fifteen  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Mocha  Cake 

One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  flour,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
one  large  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  one-half  cupful 
of  boiling  milk,  two  eggs,  not  beaten.  Sift  the  flour, 
sugar,  cream  of  tartar,  and  soda  together  twice.  Add  the 


386    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

butter,  then  break  in  the  eggs,  beat.  Add  the  milk  last. 
Beat  thoroughly.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  twenty 
minutes. 

Mocha  Frosting 

One  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  a  small  piece  of  butter, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  coffee,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla. 
Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  and  add  the  cocoa,  then 
coffee  and  vanilla.  Add  more  sugar,  if  necessary. 
Spread  with  a  knife  dipped  in  hot  water. 

Mary's  Cake 

One  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of 
butter,  one  cupful  of  tepid  water,  two  and  one-half  cup- 
fuls of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  almond  extract,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Whites  of  four  eggs.  Bake  in  layers,  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Filling  for  Mary's  Cake 

One  cupful  of  sour  cream,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  boil, 
then  beat  in  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  one  cupful  of  chopped 
nuts,  with  one-half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Buttermilk  Cake 

Two  cupfuls  of  coffee  C  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter, 
two  cupfuls  of  buttermilk,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of  soda, 
one  tablespoonful  of  cinnamon,  one-half  teaspoonful 
each  of  cloves  and  nutmeg,  one  cupful  each  of  seeded 
raisins  and  currants,  and  flour  to  make  a  not  too  stiff 
batter. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  387 

Feather  Cakes 

Cream  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  gradually  add 
one  cupful  of  sugar,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of 
milk,  and  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour,  mixed  and 
sifted  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  fold  into 
the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  add  a  quarter  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Bake  forty  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  Cover  with  white  frosting. 

Date  Cookies 

Have  ready  a  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  butter, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  two  cupfuls  of 
flour,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  a  cupful  of  chopped  dates, 
and  enough  milk  to  moisten.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar 
and  add  the  egg  yolk  beaten  with  a  little  milk.  Add  the 
dates  and  the  mixture  of  moist  ingredients.  Add  more 
milk  if  the  dough  is  too  stiff  to  roll  out.  Cut  out  thin 
cookies  and  bake.  As  this  rule  makes  as  many  as  sixty 
cookies,  the  dough  for  variety's  sake  may  be  divided  into 
several  parts  and  each  part  flavored  in  a  different  fashion, 
chopped  dates  being  used  in  only  one  portion.  Another 
may  be  flavored  with  orange,  a  third  with  lemon,  and  a 
fourth  with  chocolate.  Cocoanut  may  be  used  in  the 
fifth.  Orange  rind  and  cocoanut  together  will  make 
delicious  cookies. 

Black  Rocks 

One  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar,  a  scant  cupful 
of  shortening,  three  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground 
cinnamon,  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  raisins  cut  in 
small  pieces,  half  a  cupful  of  chopped  walnut  meats,  one 


388    THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  water, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  baking 
powder  stirred  into  three  cupfuls  of  flour.  Beat  well  and 
drop  from  a  spoon  onto  buttered  pans.  Bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven. 

Chocolate  Crisps 

Turn  into  a  mixing  bowl  three  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
chocolate,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses,  a  pinch  each 
of  ground  cinnamon  and  nutmeg,  half  a  cupful  of  brown 
sugar,  and  half  a  cupful  of  mixed  shortening  and  butter 
(melted).  Mix  these  ingredients  thoroughly  and  then 
add  half  a  cupful  of  thick  sour  cream  in  which  a  scant 
teaspoonful  of  baking  soda  has  been  dissolved,  and  suf- 
ficient sifted  pastry  flour  to  form  a  cooky  dough ;  roll 
out  on  the  bread  board  into  a  very  thin  sheet  and  with 
a  cutter  stamp  into  thin  wafers ;  dust  these  lightly  with 
grated  sweet  chocolate  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about 
seven  minutes. 

Butter  Cakes 

One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar/ 
three  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  cin- 
namon, and  one  egg.  Cream  butter  and  sugar,  add  cin- 
namon and  egg,  add  a  little  flour  at  a  time,  knead  until 
well  mixed,  roll  out  on  a  cake  board  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  cut  with  cake  cutter.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven 
until  brown.  These  are  delicious  with  afternoon  tea. 

Buttermilk  Cookies 
Cream  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  one  cupful  of  butter, 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  389 

add  one  cupful  of  buttermilk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
spices  or  flavoring  to  taste,  and  flour  sufficient  to  roll. 

Lace  Cakes 

Mix  thoroughly  together  one  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter,  one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  two  well-beaten 
eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  a  little  grated  nutmeg, 
and  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  oatmeal  into  which  have 
been  stirred  two  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder.  Have  the  batter  quite  stiff  and  drop  by  the 
teaspoonful  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  having  them 
about  an  inch  apart.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
crisp  and  brown  on  the  edges. 

Coffee  Squares 

Cream  one-half  cupful  of  sugar  with  the  same  quantity 
of  butter,  adding  one  well-beaten  egg,  half  a  cupful  of 
strained  black  coffee,  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  cupful  of 
milk,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder  sifted  with 
two  cupfuls  of  flour;  beat  thoroughly  and  then  stir  in 
half  a  cupful  of  floured  currants.  Pour  into  a  well- 
buttered  square  pan,  and  after  sprinkling  with  cinnamon 
and  powdered  sugar  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three- 
'  quarters  of  an  hour.  Cut  when  cold  into  small  squares. 

Orange  Puffs  with  Orange  Sauce 

Make  a  cake  mixture,  using  half  a  cupful  of  butter, 
a  cupful  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  three-fourths  of  a  cupful 
of  milk,  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing powder,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  orange  extract. 
Bake  in  muffin  pans  and  serve  hot  with  orange  sauce. 


390          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Orange  Sauce 

Mix  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  with  one  and  a  half  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cornstarch,  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt.  Add  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  and  boil  five 
minutes.  Add  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  two  oranges 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 

Choux  Pastry 

Put  four  tablespoons  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  add 
a  cupful  of  water,  bring  to  boiling  point,  add  quickly  two 
cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  stir  well  with 
a  wooden  spoon  until  the  mixture  leaves  the  sides  of  the 
pan,  remove  from  the  fire,  allow  to  cool,  but  not  become 
cold,  add  four  eggs,  beating  each  one  thoroughly  in. 
Put  away  in  a  cool  place  for  one  hour.  Put  into  a 
forcing  bag  with  a  plain  tube  and  force  on  to  a  baking 
tin  into  small  rounds,  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty  minutes.  When  cold  split 
them  open  on  one  side  and  fill  them  with  orange  filling. 
Sprinkle  powdered  sugar  on  the  top.  For  the  orange 
filling,  melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan, 
add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
grated  rind,  and  strained  juice  of  one  orange,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  till  the  mixture  thickens,  but  do  not  allow 
it  to  boil.  Then  add  one  dessertspoonful  of  cake  crumbs 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice;  when  cold,  the  mix- 
ture is  ready  for  use. 

Bangor  Brownies 

Cream  one-half  cupful  of  butter  with  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  add  three  squares  of  chocolate  (melted),  two  eggs 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  391 

slightly  beaten,  one  cup  of  chopped  walnuts,  and  one-half 
cupful  of  sifted  flour.  Bake  in  a  thin  layer,  on  a  cooky 
sheet,  for  ten  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done, 
cut  in  strips  or  squares. 

Acorn  Cakes 

Cream  half  a  cupful  of  butter  with  one  and  three- 
quarter  cupfuls  of  sugar,  add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  half 
a  cupful  of  buttermilk,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda, 
one-third  cupful  of  melted  chocolate,  three  cupfuls  of 
sifted  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  half  a 
cupful  of  chopped  nut  meats,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
extract,  and  two-thirds  cupful  of  water.  Mix  and  pour 
into  a  shallow,  buttered  cake  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Cool  and  cut  into 
squares.  Cover  with  white  frosting  and  decorate  with 
candy  acorns. 

Valentine  Cakes 

Cream  half  a  cupful  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar  and  add  one  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  alternately  with 
two  cupfuls  of  flour  mixed  and  sifted  with  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking  powder.  Fold  in  the  well-beaten  whites 
of  four  eggs  and  flavor  with  vanilla.  Bake  in  a  square 
pan.  When  cool  cut  into  hearts,  using  a  heart  cutter, 
cover  with  a  chocolate  icing  over  which  sprinkle  cocoa- 
nut.  For  the  icing,  place  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  a  third  of  a  cake 
of  chocolate  in  a  saucepan  and  boil  until  it  will  rope  when 
poured  from  the  spoon.  Pour  this  over  the  beaten  whites 
of  two  eggs.  Beat  until  it  thickens. 


392          THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 
Sugar  Cookies 

Cream  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  with  one  cupful  of  butter, 
or  other  shortening,  add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and  beat 
till  very  light.  Add  alternately  one-half  cupful  of  milk 
and  one  cupful  of  flour  sifted  with  one-half  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder.  Then  add  enough  more  flour  to  make  a  dough 
stiff  enough  to  roll  out.  Cut  with  a  biscuit  cutter, 
sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 
They  may  be  flavored  with  lemon,  or  vanilla  if  preferred. 


Soft  Molasses  Cookies 

One  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  one 
cupful  of  molasses,  brown  Porto  Rico,  one  cupful  oi 
sour  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of 
ginger,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  two  large  teaspoon- 
fuls of  vinegar.  Make  very  soft  with  flour  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven.  They  burn  very  easily. 


Chocolate  Nut  Wafers 

Mix  in  the  order  given :  one  cupful  of  sugar,  two 
squares  melted  chocolate,  one-half  cupful  melted  butter, 
yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  separately  and  then 
together,  one-half  cupful  flour.  Spread  very  thinly  over 
cooky  sheet  and  sprinkle  on  it  one  cup  of  coarsely 
chopped  nut  meats.  Bake  not  too  brown.  Cut  in  oblongs 
and  remove.  This  makes  a  large  quantity.  They  are 
popular  for  teas  or  with  ice  cream  or  frappe. 


JUST  HOW  TO  MAKE  CAKE  393 

Chocolate  Cake 

Cream  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  and  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg.  Add  one- 
half  cupful  of  milk  and  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of 
sifted  flour.  Add  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved 
in  a  little  water  and  then  two  squares  of  melted  chocolate, 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  another  half-cupful  of 
milk ;  finally  add  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  flour  sifted 
with  one-half  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  and  a  half- 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Beat  together  thoroughly.  The 
mixture  will  be  thinner  than  the  average  cake  batter. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Frost  while  hot. 


Graham  Torte 

•Separate  five  eggs ;  beat  the  yolks  until  thick  and  yel- 
low, then  add  two  level  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  and 
cream  together.  Grind  enough  graham  crackers  in  the 
food  chopper  to  make  one  and  one-half  cupfuls.  Stir  into 
this  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  and  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Add  to  the  sugar  and  egg  mixture 
with  one  cupful  of  ground  nutmeats.  Finally,  cut  in  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  stiff,  and  bake  in  two  layer 
cake  pans.  Make  the  filling  as  follows :  Heat  one  cupful 
of  milk  with  one  cupful  of  sugar  in  a  double  boiler,  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch  wet  in  a  very  little  cold 
milk.  Stir  while  it  thickens,  then  cook  fifteen  minutes ; 
pour  over  a  beaten  egg,  return  to  the  double  boiler  for 
a  moment's  cooking.  Then  add  one  teaspoonful  vanilla, 
and  set  away  to  cool.  Serve  the  torte  with  this  filling 
and  with  whipped  cream  on  top. 


394         MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  CAKE 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  CAKE         395 


396         MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  CAKE 


MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  CAKE         397 


398         MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  CAKE 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  MAKE  COFFEE 


HEN  practically  all  coffees  were  sold  as  either 
Java  or  Java  and  Mocha,  the  housekeeper, 
was  perfectly  satisfied.  She  knew  exactly 
what  it  was  she  wanted,  and  expected  to  get 
it  at  whatever  price  suited  her  fancy.  When 
she  objected  to  paying  thirty-five  to  forty 
cents  the  pound  there  was  not  the  slightest 
difficulty  in  accommodating  her,  and  even  at  less  than 
twenty  cents,  pound  packages  could  be  obtained,  branded 
in  large  type  with  the  magic  words,  "  Old  Government 
Java  and  Mocha  Coffee." 

A  great  change  in  the  methods  of  preparing  and  label- 
ing foods  has  taken  place  within  the  last  few  years  due 
to  the  enactment  of  the  Food  and  Drugs  Act  of  June 
3Oth,  1906.  A  multitude  of  masqueraders  have  been 
unmasked,  and  many  thousands  of  packages  must  now 
stand  forth  for  what  they  really  are.  The  housekeeper 
is  all  at  sea.  The  coffee  does  not  taste  the  same  as  it 
used  to.  Great  has  been  the  fall,  far-reaching  the  frauds 
that  have  been  stopped.  Therefore,  it  is  not  strange  to 
find  the  housekeeper  slow  to  look  with  favor  on  the 
package  commodity  that  for  many  years  has  been  grossly 
misrepresented. 

Briefly,  a  few  of  the  coffees  that  were  offered  under  a 
Java  and  Mocha  label  and  that  found  favor  so  long  as 
the  price  was  low  and  they  made  a  good  appearance,  were 
as  follows :  Santos  coffee  from  Brazil  was  the  worst 
offender,  for  the  reason  that  about  three  times  more 

399 


400     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

coffee  is  grown  there  than  is  grown  in  all  the  other 
coffee-producing  countries  put  together,  and  naturally 
over  seventy-five  per  cent,  of  our  breakfast  beverage 
is  that  particular  growth.  Santos  coffees  were  packed 
straight  or  in  combination  with  small  amounts  of  other 
coffees  as  Java,  or  Java  and  Mocha,  and  sold  at  the 
lowest  possible  figures.  When  a  slightly  better  value 
was  desired,  a  percentage  of  Maracaibo  was  used  with 
Santos  or  with  the  smaller  bean  Bourbon-Santos,  this 
latter  combination  more  nearly  resembling  the  genuine 
Java  and  Mocha  in  appearance. 

Other  packers  claimed  that  a  Bucaramanga  was  not 
only  similar  in  style  to  a  Sumatra  coffee,  then  known  as 
Java,  but  of  the  same  character  in  the  cup.  Some  deal- 
ers have  even  contended  that  it  was  impossible  to  detect 
any  difference.  There  were  therefore  combinations  of 
Bucaramanga  and  small  bean  Bourbon-Santos  sold  as 
Java  and  Mocha. 

A  degree  higher  in  cup  quality,  as  well  as  in  price,  are 
combinations  of  Bogota  and  Bourbon-Santos.  Eliminat- 
ing the  packages  containing  Brazil  coffee  only,  and  no 
other  combination  of  coffees  has  had  so  wide  a  distribu- 
tion as  Java  and  Mocha.  An  acid  Bourbon-Santos  is 
the  nearest  approach  in  the  cup  to  Mocha  of  any  coffee 
grown,  and  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  cultivated  in  the 
first  instance  from  Mocha  seed.  In  appearance  it  is  far 
superior  to  the  irregular  quakerish  Mocha,  though 
usually  equally  inferior  in  the  cup.  This  is  not  always 
the  case,  as  there  are  winey  Bourbon  coffees  that  out- 
drink  some  of  the  world-famed  coffees  from  Arabia, 
although  such  coffees  are  rare. 

Bogota  (Colombian  coffee)  found  a  market  as  Java,  or, 
in  connection  with  Bourbon-Santos,  as  Java  and  Mocha, 
for  three  reasons:  First,  the  price  was  less  than  de- 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  MAKE  COFFEE     401 

manded  for  coffees  from  the  Dutch  East  Indies.  Sec- 
ond, the  roast  was  very  much  handsomer  than  that  of 
coffees  from  Java  or  Sumatra,  excepting  certain  washed 
types.  Third,  on  account  of  the  real  merit  there  is  in 
this  growth  of  coffee. 

It  should  be  noted  that  some  of  the  finest  coffees 
grown,  equaling  if  not  exceeding  the  coffees  of  the 
Dutch  East  Indies,  are  produced  in  Colombia  (Bogota), 
Guatemala,  and  in  Mexico. 

It  has  been  frequently  stated  that  the  housekeeper 
was  more  or  less  responsible  for  the  misbranding  of 
coffee.  There  is  some  truth  in  the  statement,  for  the 
consumer  has  insisted  upon  obtaining  Java  and  Mocha 
at  whatever  price  it  was  their  purpose  to  pay.  How- 
ever that  may  be,  it  also  is  quite  true  that  the  buyer  for 
the  most  part  received  fair  value  for  the  amount  paid. 
Whose  ever  the  fault,  the  fact  remains  that  under  the 
proper  labels  many  brands  are  for  the  most  part  de- 
cidedly unsatisfactory  in  the  cup.  The  housekeeper  is 
beginning  to  realize  that  she  has  been  purchasing  a 
much  lower  grade  of  goods  than  she  supposed.  In  other 
words,  the  veneer  is  off,  the  true  material  stands  re- 
vealed, and  she  doesn't  like  it  because  it  is  not  what  she 
supposed  it  to  be. 

Naturally  the  questions  arise,  What  is  a  good  coffee? 
How  is  the  purchaser  to  know  what  to  ask  for,  and  is  it 
possible  to  get  Java  and  Mocha?  In  this  discussion  we 
must  eliminate  coffees  bought  for  a  price,  or  those  bought 
for  a  premium.  Neither  of  these  propositions  results  in 
satisfactory  brands  of  coffees. 

Rio  coffee  is  harsh  and  unpleasant  in  taste,  and  de- 
mand for  it  is  rapidly  decreasing.  Santos  coffees  with 
even  a  touch  of  the  harsh  Rio  tang  are  to  be  avoided, 
and  although  smooth  drinking  Santos  coffees  have  a 


402     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

place,  they  are  rather  lacking  in  character  and  snap.  A 
combination  of  Venezuelan  coffee  known  as  Maracaibo 
with  Santos  is  the  next  step  toward  desirable  cup  re- 
sults. This  coffee,  however,  is  inclined  to  be  irregular 
in  roast  and  does  not  produce  uniform  results  in  the 
cup,  as  it  is  inclined  to  turn  bitter  if  permitted  to  stand 
even  a  short  time. 

Maracaibo  coffees,  as  a  rule,  are  heavier  in  the  cup 
than  Santos,  more  decided  in  character,  but  more  uncer- 
tain in  cup  results.  They  are  also  inclined  to  be  irregular 
roasters. 

Above  this  we  reach  the  coffee  of  Colombia  known  as 
Bogota.  Many  satisfactory  blends  are  combinations  of 
Bogota  and  Bourbon-Santos  in  varying  proportions. 
There  is  nothing  in  a  moderate  price  coffee  that  will 
give  better  results  than  a  blend  composed  of  two  parts 
full-bodied  Bogota  and  one  part  acid  Bourbon-Santos. 
Properly  made  a  smooth  palatable  liquor  results. 
Bogota  coffee  develops  into  a  large  handsome  bean,  a 
uniform  roaster,  full  of  flavor,  body,  and  aroma.  The 
stripe  down  the  center  of  the  bean  is  pronounced  and 
at  one  end  this  stripe  is  inclined  to  make  a  slight  twist 
or  turn.  It  is  a  very  satisfactory  coffee  to  use  alone, 
and  if  the  housewife  can  purchase  a  good  Bogota  it  is 
always  possible  for  her  to  prepare  a  good  cup  of 
coffee. 

These  are  the  growths  of  really  fine  coffees.  There 
are  of  course,  Segundas,  or  second  grades,  many  of 
which  drink  well,  but  we  are  considering  only  the  fancy 
types.  Blends  composed  of  Bogota  together  with  a 
Guatemalan,  or  a  Mexican  coffee  or  both,  produce  some 
of  the  highest  types  obtainable.  A  Guatemala  has  a 
lighter  body,  is  slightly  smoother  in  appearance  than  a 
Bogota  and  has  a  straight  stripe  inclined  to  open  some- 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  MAKE  COFFEE      403 

what  wider.  It  is  full  of  aroma  and  gives  forth  a  spicy 
fragrance  that  is  most  delightful. 

The  Mexican  bean  is  usually  smaller,  slightly  more 
rounded,  and  roasts  with  a  more  open  stripe  than  either 
of  the  two  coffees  just  mentioned.  It  has  a  heavy  acid 
character  which  blends  particularly  well  with  a. smooth 
Bogota,  while  the  Guatemala  adds  the  delicate  aroma 
peculiar  in  this  coffee. 

As  against  coffees  from  the  Dutch  East  Indies  it  is 
merely  a  matter  of  preference.  Coffee  drinkers  that  are 
looking  for  the  musty  character  of  the  Old  Crop  Sumatra 
coffee  find  this  character  only  in  such  coffees.  It  is 
the  coffee  now  known  as  Interior  Padang  grown  in 
Sumatra  which  was  formerly  the  Old  Government  Java. 
The  coffee  is  an  irregular  roaster  due  to  the  method  of 
curing  and  ageing.  All  coffees  improve  by  being  held  in 
the  warehouse,  but  no  coffees  are  now  mellowed  by  being 
stored  for  varying  periods  of  time  as  was  formerly  the 
case  with  the  coffees  controlled  by  the  Dutch  Govern- 
ment. In  addition  to  this,  the  long  voyage  under  a 
tropical  sun  around  the  Horn  in  sailing  vessels  further 
mellowed  and  colored  the  coffee.  These  coffees  are 
no  longer  held,  as  used  to  be  the  case,  and  it  is  probable 
that  the  last  sailing  vessel  from  the  Dutch  East  Indies 
to  bring  in  a  cargo  of  coffee  arrived  in  May,  1913.  The 
coffees  in  future  will  come  forward  in  the  faster  steam 
vessels  and  the  benefit  of  the  long  voyage  will  be  lost. 

The  coffee  actually  grown  on  the  island  of  Java  and 
now  sold  as  genuine  Java  is  a  large  smooth  roasting  bean 
with  a  straight  regular  stripe.  The  cup  character  is 
quite  different  from  the  Padang  coffees,  but  it  is  very 
much  smoother  and  has  an  individual  quality  easily 
detectable. 

The  Mocha  coffee  of  Arabia  is  a  small  irregular  bean, 


404     THE  PURE  FOOD  COOK  BOOK 

one  of  the  poorest  roasting  coffees  grown,  containing  a 
considerable  quantity  of  broken  and  misshapen  berries. 
In  the  cup  its  merit  is  at  once  apparent,  as  it  has  a  pe- 
culiar winey  acid  reproduced  in  no  other  coffee.  A 
straight  Arabian  Mocha  made  full  strength  furnishes  a 
most  excellent  after-dinner  coffee. 

There  are  innumerable  combinations  that  may  be 
made  up  by  using  coffee  from  the  Dutch  East  Indies 
together  with  the  three  superior  growths  of  the  western 
hemisphere.  It  is  quite  apparent  that  such  combinations 
are  necessary  in  order  to  satisfy  the  different  demands 
of  the  various  consumers. 

If  you  would  have  the  best  flavored  coffee,  buy  it  in 
the  bean  and  grind  it  fresh  each  time  it  is  to  be  made. 
If  a  method  of  making  coffee  is  selected  which  demands 
pulverized  coffee,  the  most  satisfactory  mill  is  a  hand- 
driven  miniature  of  the  type  used  in  the  shops,  run  by 
hand  or  motor  power.  The  cheaper  mills  are  satisfactory 
when  fine  granular  coffee  is  desired;  they  can  be  ad- 
justed from  "  very  fine  "  to  "  coarse  "  and  can  be  ob- 
tained at  practically  all  prices. 

Actual  tests  in  coffee  making  show  a  remarkable  in- 
crease in  strength,  the  more  finely  ground  is  the  coffee. 
Each  granule  of  ground  coffee  consists  of  minute  com- 
partments which  are  broken  into  more  and  more  as  the 
berry  is  more  finely  ground.  The  coarser  the  grind  the 
less  the  yield.  The  finer  the  grind  the  quicker  and 
stronger  the  yield. 

No  less  important  is  the  fresh  grinding,  for  coffee,  even 
in  the  tightest  of  containers,  depreciates  in  flavor  very 
fast.  Coffee  pulverized  fresh  each  day  for  four  days 
was  tested  blind  at  the  expiration  of  that  time.  Each 
day's  grinding  was  readily  identified,  some  flavor  and 
aroma  being  lost  with  each  day's  standing.  So  notice- 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  MAKE  COFFEE     405 

able  is  this,  that  when  fresh  ground  coffee  is  used,  the 
familiar  "  spoonful  to  the  pot "  may  be  omitted  with  no 
loss  in  strength. 

There  are  four  common  methods  of  making  coffee: 
boiling,  steeping,  percolating,  and  filtering. 

To  boil  coffee  is  practically  to  spoil  coffee,  for  in  the 
process  the  coarse  fibrous  shell  is  broken  down  and 
adds  its  crude  flavor  to  the  delicate  flavor  oils  of  the 
coffee  bean.  Moreover,  the  liquid  must  be  "  cleared  " 
with  eggs,  adding  a  foreign  matter  which  is  no  improve- 
ment in  flavor.  Finally  this  method  yields  a  relatively 
high  per  cent,  of  both  caffeine  and  coffee-tannin,  and  it 
is  the  latter  especially  that  dietitians  now  question  as 
possibly  harmful  to  certain  individuals. 

When  coffee  is  "  steeped,"  it  is  placed  in  cold  water, 
brought  quickly  to  a  boil,  then  removed  and  settled  with 
a  dash  of  cold  water.  As  in  the  boiled  coffee  the  coffee 
is  used  ground  "  medium  fine."  Practically  the  same 
criticisms  may  be  made  to  this  method :  Perfectly  clear 
coffee  is  difficult  to  obtain;  the  full  aromatic  flavor  is 
prevented,  because  other  elements  injurious  to  flavor 
are  extracted ;  and  this  method  too  yields  a  high  per 
cent,  of  both  caffeine  and  coffee-tannin. 

Percolating  coffee  results  in  a  practically  clear  bever- 
age. Many  users  of  percolators  think  that  the  boiling  of 
the  water  forces  it  to  rise  through  the  tube.  Instead,  it 
is  the  force  of  condensation,  and  the  temperature  ranges 
between  130  degrees  Fahrenheit  and  160  degrees  Fahren- 
heit. The  water  does  not  boil  at  all.  Percolating  coffee 
produces  clear  coffee  and  a  better  flavor  to  many  palates 
than  the  previous  methods,  but  this  method  also  shows 
a  high  per  cent,  of  caffeine  and  coffee-tannin.  Thus  it 
seems  to  make  little  difference  in  regard  to  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  water  as  to  the  extraction  of  these  com- 


406     THE  PURE  FOOD.  COOK  BOOK 

pounds.  Instead,  it  is  the  length  of  time  the  coffee  is 
in  contact  with  the  water.  The  quicker  the  coffee  is 
made,  then,  the  less  caffeine  and  coffee-tannin  will  be 
present. 

For  this  reason  especially  many  will  be  interested  in 
the  fourth  method:  filtering  the  coffee.  Filtered  coffee 
is  made  so  rapidly  that  only  small  per  cents  of  caffeine 
and  coffee-tannin  are  present  in  the  finished  beverage, 
while  the  flavor  and  aroma  are  excellent.  In  this  method 
only  finely  pulverized  or  powdered  coffee  can  be  used 
successfully.  In  its  simplest  form  fresh  boiling  water  is 
poured  through  the  coffee  held  in  a  cloth  strainer,  above 
a  tea  cup. 

For  some  reason,  certain  metals  have  an  effect  on 
coffee  flavor,  so  the  use  of  china  or  glass  is  advisable. 

A  recipe  sanctioned  by  Dr.  Wiley  reads  as  follows : 


How  to  Make  Coffee 

The  best  method  of  brewing  coffee,  as  determined  by 
the  Better  Coffee-Making  Committee  of  the  National 
Association  of  Coffee  Roasters,  after  thorough  experi- 
ment, and  correspondence  with  experts,  including  Dr. 
Harvey  W.  Wiley : 

Fill  a  kettle  with  fresh  cold  water  and  put  it  on  to 
boil.  Place  over  an  open  china  teapot,  kept  just  for 
coffee  (as  metal  is  deleterious),  a  clean,  wet,  old  linen 
napkin,  or  a  new  square  of  unbleached  muslin,  letting  it 
sag  toward  the  center.  Put  into  the  depression  four 
heaping  tablespoonfuls  (for  four  cups  of  coffee)  of 
finely  pulverized  coffee.  This  fine  pulverization  is  very 
important.  Ordinary  ground  coffee  will  not  do  at  all, 
and  gives  weak  infusions. 


JUST  HOW  TO  BUY  AND  MAKE  COFFEE    407 

When  the  water  in  the  kettle  is  boiling  fiercely,  pour 
it  through  the  coffee  slowly  until  four  cupfuls  have  gone 
through,  or  a  trifle  more,  for  four  cupfuls  of  coffee. 

Cover  and  take  at  once  to  table. 

Wash  the  cloth  immediately  after  breakfast  and  keep 
it  in  a  jar  of  cold  water,  never  permitting  it  to  get  dry, 
and  freshening  the  water  every  day.  Keeping  the  cloth 
sweet  is  absolutely  essential.  Every  effort  should  be 
made  to  this  end.  The  least  souring  ruins  the  coffee. 

Follow  these  directions  strictly,  paying  special  atten- 
tion to  having  the  coffee  very  fine,  like  flour,  and  the 
water  boiling,  and  you  will  have  excellent  coffee  even 
though  you  buy  cheap  blends. 


408      MORE  WAYS  OF  MAKING  COFFEE 


COMPLETE   INDEX   TO   RECIPES 


COMPLETE   INDEX   TO   RECIPES 


TITLE  PAGE 

Ambrosia    251 

Angel  Custard    257 

Apple   Custard    256 

Apples,  Baked,  with  Marsh- 
mallow    252 

Apples,   Stuffed 'for   Roast 

Pork    230 

Apricot  Dumplings  247 

Artichokes,    Boiled  Jerusa- 
lem    327 

Asparagus,  Boiled  317 

Banana  Compote  258 

Barberry  Preserve    306 

Sauce 306 

Beans,    Red    Kidney,    with 
Cheese  in  Chafing  Dish..  322 

Beans,  String   319 

Beef,  Braised  with  Oysters  207 

'    ,  Casserole    of    210 

Loaf — Mexican  Sauce  217 

Olives    219 

"    ,  Parker  House  Roast  215 
"      Tongue  en  Casserole  212 
Beefsteak,     Just     How     to 

Broil    202 

Beefsteak,   Rolled    216 

Beet  Chowder 353 

Biscuit,  Buttermilk    87 

,  Buttermilk  Spoon.    87 

,  Sour  Cream 88 

"     ,  Swedish    78 

Black  Rocks   387 

Bobtee  218 

Bombe  Glace  367 

Bouillon,  Jellied  113 

"    .    ,  Royal    113 

Bread    70 

"    ,  Bishop's    86 

"    ,  Custard  Corn   86 


TITLE  PAGE 

Bread,    Hominy    Spoon...     87 
'    ,  Just  How  to  Make.    75 

'    ,  Nut    85 

"     ,  Pennsylvania  Dutch    80 

Puffs    80 

Breakfast  Breads,  Just  How 

to  Make  Hot 81 

Breakfast,   What  to   Serve 

for    12 

Brioche  Cakes    89 

Brown  Betty  244 

Brownies,  Bangor  390 

Buckwheat  Cakes    84 

"        90 

Bunuelos  , 245 

Cabbage,   Hors  d'Oeuvre. .  329 

Cake   Apple  Sauce  379 

'       Buttermilk  386 

'      Chocolate   393 

'  Hot  Water  Chocolate  380 
'  Hot  Water  Spice. . . .  380 
'  Just  How  to  Make. .  375 

'      Marshmallow    383 

'       Mary's  386 

' .     Mocha  385 

'      Shaker     378 

Sponge    375 

Cakes    Acorn    391 

'       Butter   376 

"        388 

1       Feather  387 

Lace  '.389 

Maple   Drop    381 

1       Valentine   391 

Calves'  Hearts   212 

Cape    Cod     Creamed    Fish 

and  Potatoes  165 

Carrots,  Mashed    323 

"      ,  Mint-Glazed   322 


411 


412 


INDEX 


TITLE  PAGE 

Celery,  Baked,  with  Cheese  324 

,  Fried    327 

Cheese  Cream,  with  Rice.  .  105 

Custard    138 

"       Timbales    137 

Chestnut   Stuffing    177 

Chicken  a  la  King  (Wal- 
dorf)   175 

Chicken,  Curried   180 

Cutlets    180 

,  Fried   181 

Rechauffe   179 

"      ,  Roman    180 

"      ,  Spanish  Fricassee  178 

Chocolate  Crisps   388 

Chowder,     New     England 

Fish    159 

Citron,  Dried,  for  cakes, 
mincemeat  and  confec- 
tions   301 

Citron-Melon,     Baked,     or 

Sauce  302 

Citron-Melon    Chips    .....  303 

"       Preserved  . .  302 

Cocoanut   Blancmange    . . .  257 

Codfish,  Creamed    157 

,  Creamed  Salt 165 

"      ,  Mexican     154 

Puff 156 

"      ,  Salpicon  of  156 

Coffee  Cakes  79 

"     ,  Just  How  to  Make  406 
Coffee,   Just   How   to   Buy 

and  Make 399 

Coffee    Souffle     252 

"        Squares    389 

Cookies    Buttermilk   388 

Date  387 

Scotch   382 

S6ft  Molasses  . . .  392 

Sugar    392 

Corn  Cakes  to  Serve  with 

Meat    336 

Corn  Fritters,  Belgian  ....  331 
Crab  Meat,  Flaked,  in  the 

Chafing  Dish  162 

Crab  Rabbit 162 

Crabs  and  Shrimps,  Span- 
ish Style 162 


TITLE  PAGE 

Cranberry  Relish  231 

Cream  Scones 90 

Crispettes   379 

Croquettes,  Celery 330 

,  Shad  Roe 165 

Cucumber      Catsup      (Un- 
cooked)      351 

Currants,  Spiced   352 

Dandelions  with  Bacon. . .  .  268 

Desserts    237 

Desserts,     Just     How     to 

Make    239 

Devil's  Food  Pudding  ....  385 
Dinner,  What  to  Serve  for    13 

Dressing,  Chiffonade    276 

,  Chili  276 

,  Mayonnaise    ....  275 
,  Roquefort  Cheese  277 

Egg,  An  English  136 

"  ,  A  New  Deviled 131 

Eggplant,  Stuffed   335 

Eggs    123 

a  la  Golden  Rod. . .  .  136 
and  Cheese  Cream..  133 

au  Gratin   135 

,  Baked,  with  Cheese.  135 

,  Belmont    136 

,  Bollerino 131 

Eggs,  Bread,  and  Bacon  in 

Chafing  Dish  134 

Eggs,  Crisfield,  Scrambled.  134 
Eggs,    Deviled,    a    la    Fro- 

mage    131 

Eggs,  Ham  and  Spanish. .  .  132 

,  Hamburg   132 

in  Baked  Potatoes..  139 

,  Just  How  to  Cook..  128 

,  How    to    Preserve.    125 

,  Piquant  Scrambled..  135 

Eggs,  Poached,  in  Milk  or 

Cream 133 

Eggs,         Poached,         with 

Creamed  Celery  132 

Eggs,  Scotch  134 

Eggs,  Whole,  with  Smoked 

Beef  133 

English  Cottage  Pie 218 


INDEX 


413 


TITLE  PAGE 

Escallop  of  Green  Corn...  334 

Filling  for  Mary's  Cake.  ..  386 
Fish  145 

'  ,  Just  How  to  Cook. . .  147 
"  ,  Sauted  153 

"  Stew  159 

Frappe,  Chocolate  or  Coffee  365 

"  ,  Cider  366 

"  ,  Coffee  365 

"  ,  Fruit  Juice 365 

Frappe,  Orange  and  Grape 

Juice 366 

Frappe,  Tea  364 

Frappes  363 

Frozen  Custard,  Dolly 

Madison's  369 

Frozen  Desserts,  Just  How 

to  Make  359 

Fruit  Bars  382 

Fruit  Preserves  (Apples, 

Pears,  and  Plums) 309 

Gems,  Cream  Rye 88 

German  Luncheon  Dish  .  . .  229 

Gingerbread,  Buttermilk   . .  385 

,  Chocolate  . . .  384 

Gingersnaps  383 

Good    Cooking    3 

Goose,  Roast  i?9 

Gooseberries,  Honeyed    . . .  308 

Gooseberry  Amber   260 

Graham  Crisps   82 

"        Gems 90 

Torte 393 

Granite,  Banana 366 

Granites      Made     with      a 

Syrup    366 

Grape  Conserve   306 

353 

Juice  Souffle 258 

"      Marmalade    307 

Grapefruit  Cocktails  255 

Green  Peppers  Stuffed  with 

Cauliflower    332 

Green  Tomatoes  and  Pep- 
per Relish    348 

Halibut,  Baked  154 


TITLE  PAGE 

Halibut,     Baked,      Spanish 

Style    156 

Halibut  in  Lemon  Sauce. .   153 

Ham,  Baked    227  - 

,  Baked,    Sliced    226 

,  Kentucky 225 

,  Southern    226 

Timbales    227 

Trifle     228 

Hamburg  Sponge 254 

Hash  in  Disguise 217 

Hollandaise,  Mock   164 

Hominy,   Baked   324 

Hulled  Corn   335 

Ice  Cream,  Coffee 367 

Ice     Cream,     Dolly     Madi- 
son's      369 

Italian  Polenta   325 

Ivory  Cream  252 

Jam,  Green   Gage   307 

"   ,  Pear  and  Cranberry.  308 
'    ,  and  Peach  ....  308 

Jellied  Oatmeal 257 

Jellies  and   Preserves,  Just 
How  to  Make 297 

Jelly    Barberry  304 

Crab  Apple 303 

Green  Grape  Mint  . .  305 

Orange    300 

Pineapple    300 

Pink  Grape    304 

Purple  Grape 305 

Quince  304 

Rhubarb 299 

Rhubarb    304 

Johnnycake,  Apple 85 

Kidney,  Deviled  229 

Lamb  Souffle   221 

"       Timbales    2-21 

Lemon  Sticks   241 

Lentil  and  Mushroom  Cut- 
lets    321 

Lentils,  Baked    320 

"     ,  Baked,  and  Cheese  322 


INDEX 


TITLE  PAGE 

Liver  with  Bechamel  Sauce  228 
Loaf,  Roast  Nut  and  Bar- 
ley   323 

Luncheon,  What  to    Serve 
for    j-. .  .    12 

Macaroni    Savory  in  Chaf- 
ing Dish    325 

Mackerel,  Baked   Salt    ....  155 

"       ,  Molded   159 

Maple  Cup  Custard   258 

Marshmallow  Filling 384 

Loaf    255 

Meat    185 

Meat    Balls     with     Horse- 
radish Sauce  220 

Meat      Loaf      with      Hard 

Cooked  Eggs 216 

Meats,  Just  How  to  Buy..  187 

,  Just    How    to   Cas- 
serole     209 

Meats,  Just  How  to  Cook.  214 
1  ,  Just  How  to  Roast  200 
"  ,  Moderately  Quick 

Cooking    195 

Meats,  Quick  Cooking  ....  195 
"     ,  Ready    Cooked    and 
Market  By-Products  ....  199 

Meats,  Slow  Cooking 196 

Menus,  Just  How  to  Plan.      9 

"      ,  Autumn   41 

,  Spring   14 

,  Summer    32 

"     ,  Winter     56 

Mexican  Delight  114 

Mincemeat  without  Meat. .  240 

Mint  Chicken  Cream 176 

Mocha   Frosting    386 

Mock  Beef  a  la  Mode 331 

Duck    219 

"      Pork 333 

Mousse    Apricot   253 

"         Ginger    363 

Mint  Biscuit 362 

Pineapple    363 

Walnut 362 

Muffin,    Entire    Wheat    or 

Graham  83 

Muffin,  Raised   84 


TITLE  PAGE 

Mushrooms    Baked    under 

Glass    326 

Mutton,  Roast  Leg  of 220 

Noodle  and  Ham  Pudding  227 

Oatmeal  Drops  381 

Okra    332 

Omelet    Bacon   and   Potato  139 

Cereal   137 

Lattard  138 

Potato 139 

Rice 137 

Ripe  Olive 140 

Spinach    139 

Onions  and  Cheese 323 

Orange  Bombe  Glace 367 

Orange       Puffs,       Orange 

Sauce 389 

Orange  Surprise    260 

Orange      and      Grapefruit 

Cup    255 

Oysters,  Broiled,  a  la  Fran- 

gaise  160 

Oysters,  Scalloped 161 

Pancakes,  Entire  Wheat. ..    84 

Parfait,  Coffee   362 

,  Lemon    361 

,  Marmalade    368 

"      ,  Marshmallow    . . .  368 

Parker  House  Rolls  80 

Pastry,   Choux    390 

Peach  Melba  254 

Peaches,  Spiced    310 

,  Sweet  Pickled  . . .  309 
Peanut  Butter  Pinwheels. .    88 

Pear  Condet  258 

Pears  with  Ginger 305 

Peas 319 

Peas,     French,     Normandy 

Style    326 

Peas,    Mint    331 

Pepper  Hash 350 

Persian  "  Piloh  " 101 

Peter  Pans    380 

Philadelphia  Scrapple    ....  225 
Pickle,  Mixed  Mustard 350 


INDEX 


415 


TITLE  PAGE 

Pickle,  Ripe  Tomato  Sweet  351 

Pickles,  East  Indian 348 

Pickles,     Green     Tomatoes 

Sweet    349 

Pickles,      Just      How      to 

Make    343 

Pickles,  Tiny  Cucumbers  or 

Gherkin     347 

Pie    A  Dixie  Potato 292 

Apple    239 

Butterscotch   242 

Cream 243 

Date    242 

Mock  Cherry  240 

Pumpkin    242 

Sour  Cream,  No.  2. .  .  243 

Transparent    241 

Pineapple   Preserved    with- 
out  Cooking   306 

Pineapple  Turnover   243 

Planked      Lake      Superior 

White  Fish   164 

Plum  Butter   307 

"      Conserve    307 

Plums,  Euchred,  and  Pears  309 
Pork  Tenderloins,  Parisian, 
in  the  Chafing  Dish   ....  225 

Potato  Chowder    292 

Puff    290 

"       Puffs    290 

Potatoes,  Anna    288 

,  Apples  and  Sweet  293 

,  Baked  287 

,  Boiled    286 

,  Browned  Sweet  .  293 

,  Chantilly   289 

,  French  Fried  .  . .  287 
,  Fried,  with  Span- 
ish Sauce  291 

Potatoes,     Just     How     to 

Cook    285 

Potatoes,     Mashed    White, 

and  Turnips 291 

Potatoes,  Mint   291 

,  Molded    290 

,  Nut-filjed  289 

,  Rissolees    200 

,  Savory   287 

,  Stuffed  .  . .  288 


TITLE  PAGE 

Potatoes,       Stuffed,       with 

Cheese 289 

Potatoes,  and  Other  Vege- 
tables    281 

Pot    Roast    of    Beef,   Just 

How'to  Cook 205 

Pot  Roast,  Epicurean    ....  208 

"     ,  Left-Over    207 

Poultry    171 

Poultry,  Just  How  to  Buy 

and  Cook  173 

Princess  Cream   254 

Prune  Tapioca  253 

Prunes,  Jellied   259 

Pudding,  Apple  and  Bread 

Crumb 246 

Pudding,  Baked  Indian  and 

Apple    247 

Pudding   Bread    244 

Brown  Sugar  .  . .  247 
Caramel  Bread  .  .  246 


Pudding 


and  Apple 105 


Pudding 


Caramelized  Rice 


Corn 


323 

Frozen  Rice  ....  106 

Lemon    248 

Lemon  Bread  .  . .  248 
Maple  Tapioca.  .  249 

Persimmon    250 

Rhubarb 244 

Steamed  Date   . .  243 

Suet    246 

Puree  Jackson   114 

"       of  Tomato 118 

Ragga  Muffin 82 

Raspberry  Jelly 260 

Red  Cabbage 332 

Rhubarb  Relish   (for  meat 

course)    310 

R  ce    95 

,  Baked    101 

Boiled — Carolina  ....  102 
,  Boiled — Japanese   .  . .   100 

,  Carrotina '104 

Croquettes 107 

Cups   104 

,  Hindu  Vegetable  ....  102 
,  Just  How  to  Cook  ...    96 


416 


INDEX 


TITLE  PAGE 

Rice,  Mexican    100 

"  ,  Steamed    99 

.     "  ,  Vegetarian    101 

"     and      Quinces,      Iced 

Compete  of  106 

Rice  and  Sausage,  Baked. .  103 
with    Tomato    and 

Cheese  329 

Rolls,  Raised  Split 83 

Rough  Robin 86 

Royal  Cream 256 

Salad,  Beet  and  Pepper  . . .  270 

;    ,  Cabbage  271 

''     ,  Cherry    273 

:     ,  Cleveland 271 

,  Crab  Meat 274 

1    ,  Cucumber  Jelly  ....  269 

,  Grape   273 

1     ,  Hawaiian  272 

1     ,  Jellied   Chicken   and 

Egg 267 

Salad,  Okra 270 

'    ,  Oyster 275 

,  Pineapple 272 

,  Pond  Lily 274 

,  Potato  and  Tomato.  269 

,  Red  Pepper 269 

1     ,  Red  and  White  Cur- 
rant and  Raspberry 274 

Salad,  Roast  Beef 268 

'     ,  Salmon  158 

,  Salmon  Jelly 157 

1     ,  Sardine 275 

,  Spinach    268 

.  Stuffed  Egg  267 

,  Tomato  Jelly   270 

;    ,  Waldorf 271 

Salads    265 

Sally  Lunn 82 

Sally  Lunns 89 

Salmon,  Parisian  158 

,  Planked,  with  Po- 
tato Balls  155 

Salmon  Shells 157 

Sandwiches,  Jellied  Chicken  178 
,  Roquefort    . . .  277 

Sauce,  Almond  246 

"    ,  Chili  351 


TITLE  PAGE 

Sauce,  Creamy 251 

Currant  Mint   231 

Drawn  Butter 163 

;       Foamy  Pudding  . .  .  250 

'       Hollandaise    163 

Horseradish 231 

Lobster   163 

Maple  Hard 251 

Marshmallow    368 

Mexican    217 

Nut  Cream 250 

Orange    390 

Ripe  Olive 140 

White  Mushroom  .  .  181 
for  Suet  Pudding  . .  246 

Sausage  Bundles   228 

Sherbert,  Mint  Fruit 369 

Short  Bread,  Rich 381 

Shrimps,  Savory,  in  Chafing 

Dish   161 

Sillabub 251 

Souffle  Tin,  To  Prepare  a  248 

Soup    Black  Bean    330 

'       Crab,  a  la  Maryland    117 
'      Cream  of  Celery  ....  119 

'       Cream  of  Corn 119 

"      Cream  of  Fish 160 

"      Cream  of  Lettuce,  ..  116 

"      Cream  of  Rice 103 

'       Creole    115 

'      East  Indian  105 

Lentil  and  Tomato.   117 

'      Mock  Oyster 118 

Mushroom   113 

Southern  Tomato  ...  116 

'       Spanish 115 

Swedish  Fish 117 

White    115 

Soups in 

Spaghetti 325 

Spare-ribs  stuffed  with  ap- 
ples and  prunes  224 

Spider  Corn  Cake 91 

Spinach  318 

Squash,  Steamed  in  Shell  .  335 

,  Summer  327 

Steak,  Flank,  with  Onions.   216 

:     ,  Swiss    215 

Stock,  Vegetable   114 


INDEX 


417 


TITLE  PAGE 

Strawberry  Charlotte  259 

Compote  259 

Shortcake, 

Grandmother's  245 

Stuffed  Green  Peppers  (or 

Mangoes)  349 

Stuffing  i?9 

Summer  Hot  Pot 334 

Supper,  What  to  Serve 

for  14 

Sweetbreads,  Masked  ....  229 
Sweet  Potatoes,  Scalloped  .  292 

Thanksgiving  Brambles  . .  .  241 
Tomato  Catsup  (uncooked)  350 

"  Curry 328 

Rabbit  329 

"  Sweets,  yellow  egg  352 

Tomatoes  a  la  Tom 328 

Tomatoes,  Smothered 328 

Tongue,  Braised 231 


TITLE  PAGE 

Turkey,     Roast,     Chestnut 

Stuffing  177 

Turkey,  Wild  175 

Veal,  Casseroled    212 

"    ,  Bavarian,   Chops    . . .  222 

,  Creamed    223 

Cutlet,  Baked 222 

Dandy 223 

Loaf    224 

Paprika    223 

,  Sour    Cream    Gravy.  221 
Vegetables,    Just    How    to 
Cook    317 

Wafers,  Chocolate  Nut 392 

Waffles,  Rice,  with  Maple 

Syrup  249 

Waffles,  Sweet  Potato 293 

Watermelon  Rind,  P  r  e  - 

served   352 


